• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.1680-1691
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• 2008

This study examines how the development and value of dresses shown in MBC historical dramas have changed with the overall change of the dramas. As for the research method, the second data analysis was done with literature study which was supplemented with interviews with the wardrobe team of MBC production design center. Historical dramas produced by MBC have gone through the developmental period, legitimate historical drama-oriented period, stagnant period, and historical dramas-modernized period. The value of costume in each period is as follows: Costume in the developmental period is considered only as part of drama setting. During legitimate historical drama-oriented period, it carries value as educational data and historical replica produced by historical research. Production design including costume obtains its own value in the stagnant period although the production of historical dramas decreases dramatically. And lastly, in the historical dramas-modernized period, costume starts to have commercial value as cultural contents. Historical drama costume may contain important value in terms of education and history, even though there has been controversy on TV historical dramas' role: they should focus on reproducing historical facts or they should support writers' creativity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.407-426
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• 1996

The study, "a semiotic analysis on 1930′s costume", is based on semiotic theory which analyze the meaning of signs. In the novels, "흙" and "삼대", character′s costume were used as a visual language that implies massages of character′s status, class, and the view of value. Analyzing the meaning of clothing signs, clothing could deliver the people′s informations to others and could be first things when people accept new value. The object of the studies are the novels, Hulk(흙) and Samdae(삼대) which are written by lee, Kwang-Soo and Yeom, Sang-Seob. In the novels, the social structure is classed as modern and traditional after we accept the western cultures and institutions. The traditional clothing, Han Bok, were dressed by the conservative woman. However, we could find the modernized woman dress with the western dress and the modified traditional style. According to the result of the research, we could find that clothing could be a sign which indicates value and also clothing is one of the first thing to change when people acquired new value.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.111-122
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• 2002

The study of traditional costume is significant in terms of figuring out of the reality of its originality and enrich the costume culture of today. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and to contemplate the aesthetic values of the Kokuryo costume. Kokuryo costume were characterized with the simpleness in its clothing constructions. The spaces found on the dresses were emphasized giving a geometric characteristics and abstract images. Many different colors were used for tops, bottoms, and border elements showing value contrast in each parts of dress. Patterns were simplified in a dot or stripe shapes impling a certain symbols. Dot patterns were varied in its shapes. In general. the decorative elements were simple and eliminated. Through the process of investigating these aesthetic characteristics, aesthetic values were found. The aesthetics of nature were favoured and tradition were respected. Religious mind were favoured and progressive spirit were endowed by the Kokuryo people. They have pursued the diversities and many changes in visual forms of dresses which were the manifestations of their esprit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.41-53
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• 2004

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.77-95
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• 1998

The culture of a country is formed by the sense of value of a nation being a creator as well as on operator of the culture. So, the Chinese culture and fruthermore, the sense of value the Chinese people can be understood through the study of the costume of China. Above all, the culture of China, including the costume, have been formed through the his-tory of exchange between the central Chinese people and its surrounding minority races, and it should not be overlooked that its own culture of each race is existing with each other in the great Chinese culture sphere. In the paper, the concept of costume as relections of a culture is confirmed through the examination of the characteristics of the costume of the Miao tribe with such history and culture as a background and on effort is made to take those as resources modern fashion designs while inferring from them the characteristics of costume with universal and original values sthat can be sublimated into the modernistic beauty. The results of the study are as follows. First, the basic composition consists of a simple jacket made in a way of straight-cut-ting and a close pleated skirt and it tended to put emphasis on diversified and splendid decorations compared with the simple basis composition. Second, the costume of the Miao tribe are characteristic of hair done in a knot with head-dress around head. Third, the kinds of dress are multifarious by race and region due to a long period of mobile and disperse life. In the course of studying the universal value of the Miao tribe is confirmed which is by no means inferior to the standard of the medernistic beauty which keeping its originality. The study is made to be helpful for activating the design going with the trend that the basic harmony between the nature and man, that is a climate and the local cul-ture hearing formed a splendid culture in the past, are being found again.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.65-73
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• 2006

Lots of audience turn their eyes upon musical to satisfy various cultural desire. It is popular culture that was watched in culture contents industry. The stage costume which turn audience's eyes in musical the most is the sight art of stage to express visually actor(actress)'s personality, mental state, administrative position, age and the distinction of sex. This study researches designed stage costume which was based on time backgrounds and historical facts of reinvented clothes and its ornaments in Egypt by 'Sonia Rykiel' through musical, 'ten commandments' with special times. We collected home and abroad documentary records, Internet data. Moreover we viewed performance to analyze stage costume and brochure photograph data to study. In consequence the stage costume of musical 'ten commandments' found its way out of traditional clothes and its ornaments largely. We can recognize the stage costume as the most important part in drama by explaining the content on drama as costume through reinvented shape with modern sense and by taking charge of the principal part to lead atmosphere. In addition, thanks to the creative work of designer for stage costume, we can realize important intermediation to make higher artistic value of musical.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.457-466
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in culture of Korea and China. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. First, a bibliographical inquiry includes the attributes of cultural color in Korea and China and the costume attributes of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. Second, this survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone by extracted color data. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The cultural color factors of Korea and China are classified geographical factor, internal cultural factor and external cultural factor. 2. Changgeuk costume much more used high value and medium & low chroma for korean temperate climate. But Beijing opera costume prefers high-medium value and low chroma color, various ranges of color because of China huge land and various climates, as geographical factor. 3. Changgeuk costume much more used YR color(no-dyeing color) because of korean white robe preference. Beijing opera costume much more used R color than Changgeuk costume because of traditional preference of R color, as infernal cultural factor. 4. Changgeuk costume and Beijing opera costume show the practical use of ascetic cole. like as jade green. Ojungsaek much less used than Obangsaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, as external cultural factor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.47-59
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• 2015

This paper studies the conservation treatment of Lady Shim's costume, which was excavated in Jecheon Province in 2012. There were the significant problems, which were encountered in the treatment of the costume ; First the Jeogoris were transformed during the excavation, Second fibers were seriously deteriorated, Third most of the fabrics such as Chusa were readily deformed. To overcome these problems and to secure stability in the conservation treatment, we decided to alternate between two different washing methods ; dry cleaning by n-hexane and wet cleaning by water. The costume shape was recovered by steaming and by swelling with Hanji(Korean traditional paper). The combined cleaning method proved to be relatively efficient and stable. In addition, the shape of Chusa was well preserved by dry cleaning.(using n-hexane also solved the problem of bad smell after washing with organic solvents.) The effects of the conservation treatment on the excavated costumes could be seen in the change of Lab color difference. Washing made the distribution of Lab color difference narrower, which may suggest that the impurities on the fiber was removed by washing. In addition, the value of L was greater than a-value and b-value after the treatment. This result indicates that the change of value represents the change of color difference by cleaning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.83-94
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationship between the clothing consumption value and consumer satisfaction which were based on the purchase places such as department store and market, and to examine the influence of the clothing consumption value and demographic variables on the consumer satisfaction. The subjects were 364 females ranging in ages from twenties to fifties who dwelt in Seoul and in the suburbs of Seoul. Four factors of clothing consumption value derived by factor analysis: 'functional value', 'emotional value', 'epistemic value', and 'conditional value'. The clothing consumption value and satisfaction of shopping system, purchase system, and consumption system of buyers at department store showed higher than that of buyers at market. Emotional value was most important in predicting the consumer satisfaction of buyers at department store, followed by epistemic value (-) and conditional value. Conditional value was most important in predicting the satisfaction of buyers at market, followed by emotional value and the academic background of buyers. Generally the higher the emotional and conditional value, the higher the consumer satisfaction. and the consumer satisfaction was influenced by epistemic value negatively.