• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.2
• /
• pp.109-121
• /
• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.6 no.3
• /
• pp.169-183
• /
• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.9
• /
• pp.161-176
• /
• 2007

The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.6
• /
• pp.1127-1137
• /
• 2010

As directly imported apparel brands are actively entering the domestic market, studies of the marketing aspects of these imported apparel products and their overall consumption trend have been done. However, studies of whether are not the directly imported apparel products provide Korean consumers with an appropriate fit are not as common. Therefore, this study investigates the satisfaction with and problems associated with the fit along with the recognition of and preference for directly imported US apparel brands. 100 female college students who purchased directly imported US apparel brands participated in a survey. The results of this survey showed that their recognition of, preference for, possession rate of and satisfaction with the directly imported US apparel brands tend to be high. The major purchasing motivations were the excellent 'design' and 'color' of the products. The subjects reported that they were satisfied with the quality of 'materials' and 'sewing condition'. However, they were not satisfied with the 'comfort' or the 'size'. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of these products differed depending on the specific item. Their level of satisfaction with the fit of T-shirts and knits was high, whereas the level for pants was relatively low. They complained mostly about the sleeve length and garment length of upper-body garments and coats. They were not satisfied with how the pants fit. The areas of dissatisfaction regarding the pants were the waist girth, the crotch length and the pants length.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.8
• /
• pp.149-165
• /
• 2012

This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.10
• /
• pp.24-34
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.13 no.5
• /
• pp.806-814
• /
• 2011

A solar jacket, which utilizes solar energy for generating electricity, is an example of clothing developed by the fusion of multiple technologies; such fusion of technologies can lead to further developments in the clothing industry and other industries in general. Many research institutes and garment manufacturing companies in Europe and America are developing solar garments; various solar-based products manufactured using solar cells, photovoltaic batteries, etc. are being sold at high prices. The purpose of this study was to investigate the development status of solar garments and their application for generating photovoltaic energy; the study also identified the type of design and upper body clothing preferred by Korean in their early 20s. The survey participants were 188 university students aged between 20 and 25. The design of the proposed six types of solar clothing was evaluated and rated; they were then ranked on the basis of the ratings. A survey on the management of solar garments was conducted, and ratings were assigned according to a 5-point Likert scale, with 5 indicating the strong affirmation. The survey results showed that among the six types of clothing, protective clothing (50%) and sportswear (22%) were more preferable than the others (working clothes (16%), casual clothes (3%), everyday wear(6%), and suits(1%)). Among the six proposed designs, the jumper design (22%) and jean jacket design (21%) were preferred over the others (casual jacket (19%), casual jacket I (15%), classic suit (14%), and climbing jacket (9%)). Factorial analysis of the management of solar garments revealed that the most important factors were the properties of the solar cell and time required for battery charging, and the second important factors were clothing weight and comfort.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.6
• /
• pp.1087-1098
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to conduce the survey of three groups of college women living in different residential districts, Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and a district, each other, analyze the actual condition of wearing blue jeans, comparative investigate actual condition in each residential district of wearing blue jeans and cognition by change of crotch length and trend through comparison of cognition on dressed blue jeans with short crotch length. By which investigation, it was intended to understand their condition and propose of blue jeans as may offer fit with short crotch length. As the result of this study, it presented college women had hipbone blue jeans in order of $2\sim3$ and more than 4 in all of residential districts, they purchased hipbone blue jeans with crotch length in order of for middle crotch(23 cm) and short crotch(21cm) commonly in all of residential districts, and they care a lot for exposing back waist and hip of hipbone blue jeans without reference to residential district. They had a bad feeling for exposure, and as an alternative to deal with this, they answered mostly on 'wearing hipbone underwear' or 'wearing long upper garment', and there was significant difference between residential districts in silhouette and exterior fitness of crotch length among important factors when wearing hipbone blue jeans.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.32
• /
• pp.21-30
• /
• 1997

Chogori the basic upper garment of korea costume occupies an important role in tra-ditional dressing and continues to be in use to the present days. Of course there has been changes in the length and line of Chogori with the flow of time based on the Ancient Yoo. This is a study of the 14 parts of Chgori based on statistical analysis by computing the practical measuements. Here the statistical analysis is a objective and quantitative of the stylistic changes in Chogori with time. In this study from the data the Mean and Standard deviation has been evaluated and periodic change is shown by graph to test the periodic change T-test Regressional analysis Index analysis has been used. The results are as follows: 1. The length of clothing has changed with time except the sleeve length. Here the length of clothing means all the other measurements ex-cept the sleeve Thus while the measurements of sleeve length has been uniquely unchanged the other measurements have influenced each other. 2. Generally the form of Chogori had the tendency towards smallness in the 19th cen-tury. But it tended to get larger in the 20th century. 3. Compared to other periods the mode of 19th and 20th century Chogori was widely ac-cepted as the Standard deviation of that period was very narrow. 4. The results seen from the regressional analysis of the Cho-sun period woman's Chogori satisfy the t-value and R-squared and thus support the regression formula presump-tion. 5. From the index analysis it is revealed that with decrease in the armhole measurement sleeve measurement and neckband; relatively same decrease in the wrist measurement; and very marked decrease in the sideline measurement.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.85-99
• /
• 2004

The purpose of the study is to survey the current state of tween generation boys' clothing-wearing, to identify problems in the current apparel sizing system, and to contribute to the improvement of the fitness of ready-made clothes. 1. According to the result of surveying the current state of clothing-wearing, boys prefer casual wear and, as they grow old, they tend to purchase clothes alone or in company with their friends. In addition, they use mainly easy casual wear or sports wear stores. They appear to be highly dissatisfied with price and size and think that the fitting of coats, pants and jackets is poor. Moreover, they complain about sizes such as waist circumference, pants length and upper-arm circumference. 2. According to the result of comparing apparel sizing system with body measurements, the waist circumference and hip circumference of young casual wear are fit to the large size of body at the age of 12 and the over-average size of body at the age of 13 and 14, but its bust circumference is fit only to the extra-large size of body at the age of 13 and 14. Such results come from differences in body shape between adults and adolescents. Although adolescents' body size has been enlarged, their body line is still immature and, accordingly, their drop-value is smaller than that of adults, which appears to cause adolescents to be highly dissatisfied with fitting.