• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.6
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• pp.124-144
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• 2008

This study is taken as the part of the cultural research on the Kaspian coastal region, which has a great significance as the start of human civilization and in the history of cultural exchange. This study is focused on the Achaemenid dynasty of the great Persian Empire that Iranians have established on the Parsa region, south of Iran on 6-4th century B.C. This research limits to the tribute-relief illustrated on the stairs of Apadana Palace in Persepolis during the age of Achaemenid dynasty. The objective of this research is classify and analyze Persians and its neighboring tribes, their dresses and the detailed elements of the dresses to complete the typology of the dresses in that period and use this to categorize the features of nomadic and agricultural tribes of costal areas of the Mediterranean Sea to Northern India and study the cultural exchange and its effects. Furthermore, we aim to use the above typology to revise the typology of the Korean traditional dresses that were formerly just sorted as a type of coat-trousers that classified as a nomadian Scythian dress type. The results of above analysis are as follows: The clothing of many tribes living in the coastal areas of Mediterranean Sea to the Northern India in the Achaemenid dynasty of Persia on 6th century B.C. shows that the typology of the dressings have close relationship with the region they live in. Such typology is displayed differently from tribes east and west of Iran. The tribes west of Iran showed characteristics of an agricultural tribe and the tribes east of Iran displayed features of a nomadic tribe. In addition, uniformed styles of dressing were displayed amongst many tribes sharing a common lineage. Such inference came from the fact that similar styles of dressings were identified not only in tribes east of Iran but also in tribes west of Iran.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.1
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• pp.147-168
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• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Smart Media Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.41-45
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• 2020

Recently, artificial intelligence (AI) and the Internet of things (IoT), which are represented by machine learning and deep learning among IT technologies related to the Fourth Industrial Revolution, are applied to our real life in various fields through various researches. In this paper, IoT and AI using object recognition technology are applied to classify clothing. For this purpose, the image dataset was taken using webcam and raspberry pi, and GoogLeNet, a convolutional neural network artificial intelligence network, was applied to transfer the photographed image data. The clothing image dataset was classified into two categories (shirtwaist, trousers): 900 clean images, 900 loss images, and total 1800 images. The classification measurement results showed that the accuracy of the clean clothing image was about 97.78%. In conclusion, the study confirmed the applicability of other objects using artificial intelligence networks on the Internet of Things based platform through the measurement results and the supplementation of more image data in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.173-186
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between the weight of seasonal garments worn by Korean women in their daily lives and thermal insulation. We selected a total of 121 garments(13 kinds of Under garments, 51 Upper garments, 32 Lower garments, 15 Headgear, 10 Gloves Footgear) based on our previous survey using questionnaire and interview. Thermal insulation of single garment was measured with a thermal manikin. Also we measured garment weight, covering area, thickness, air permeability on the each garment(chamber air temperature: $21.5{\pm}0.5^{\circ}C$, humidity: $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ air speed: 0.15m/s). The results are as follow: The very strong positive correlation(r=0.905, p<.01) was recognized between the weight of single garment and thermal insulation. The regression equation of thermal insulation can be represented as follows: Thermal Insulation(clo)=$0.03+0.0004{\times}Garment$ Weight(g)($r^2$=0.820, SEE =0.059). There are significant differences in the thermal insulation and garment weight by season and garment type(p<.05). The each garment category's thermal insulation and garment weight has as follows: Under garment(0.06clo, 89g), Blouse Shirt T-shirt(0.13clo, 200g), Cardigan Sweater Vest(0.14clo, 287g), Coat Jacket Jumper(0.41clo, 890g), Skirt(0.16clo, 276g), Trousers(0.20clo, 438g), Headgear(0.03clo, 102g), Gloves Footgear(0.03clo, 33g).

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.75-81
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• 2005

The experiment aimed at knowing the effect of physiology and psychology according to season on color preference. Two tests, one of the spring and the other of the autumn was conducted. Seventy subjects with normal color vision served as subjects. The subjects entered a bioclimatic chamber controlled at a temperature of $25\pm1^{\circ}C$, a relative humidity of $50\pm5\%$ and a light of 1000 1x. The subjects wearing white shirts and trousers sat quietly on a sofa for one our. Sensation from warm to cool colors might be possibly different individually Therefore, a subject asked to array 41 randomly placed cloth colors from very warm to very cool colors during rest quietly for one our. All subjects arrayed these cloth colors in the order from red through yellow and green to blue, which had the reproducibility. After rest, they were instructed to choose a single one out of 41 cloth colors, preferred by themselves, every 10min during one our 0-ring test were measured to red, yellow, white, blue, black, favorite color, and dislike color. Most subjects preferred warmer color in April than in December. Tympanic temperature was significantly lower in December than in April. Finger presser was significantly higher in like color than in dislike color but it was no significant differences between spring and autumn. The preferring the warm color in April toward summer when basal metabolic rate is decreased than in December toward winter when it is increased can explain that physiology reaction by load error between actual core temperature and set-point induces psychological reaction to pursue visual alliesthesia. Our present experiment revealed that the preferred color could be determined by the relationship between the internal temperature and its set point according to season. It should be emphasized that the alliesthesia was observed also in the realm of visual system.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine closely the aesthetic characteristics featured in dandy's costume. Dandy was term used on for a man excessively fond of and overly concerned with clothes, exemplified by Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, and count d'Orsay, who greatly in gluenced men's fashions in England and France. In the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century George Brummell, the prototype of the dandy, made upper-class English country clothes, especially riding clothes, into the height of men's fashion in the city. In the early 1800s the alterations he made, particularly with regard to fit and cut, established these as the critical signifiers in men's dress. Brummell's style, particularly for day, was essentially restrained and disciplined, and set a standard for sober discretion, appropriateness and taste which governed men's clothing until well into the twentieth century. The aesthetic characteristics expressed in dandy's dress are the aristocratic superiority of mind, the restrained beauty in absolute simplicity, and the pursuit of the individual beauty. Brummell's kind of dandyism instigated the idea of establishing a new kind of aritocracy, an aritocracy based on talent. Over the years this kind of cultural and social coup has been played out in different ways but has remained, like the twentieth-century concept of the avant-garde, a fundamentally male preserve. He advocated unobtrusive darkblue fitted coats, cream-colored trousers, elaborately tied cravats, absence of showy fabrics or excessive decoration, and impeccable grooming. The status of the perfectly tied cravat as the hallmark of genteel elegance, as the last keystone of Fashion's arch, had been established by Beau Brummell.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.107-122
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• 2012

This thesis takes it an aim to analyze and compare the visual images which results from attaching the voluminous changes of the waist gathering to the basic Sarrouel pants, one of the Islamic costume, and also from the three body type influenced by these changes. The method of the investigation was to select basic designs of the Sarrouel pants, then the three pieces of the experimental clothes called pattern 1(50%), pattern 2(100%), and pattern 3(150%) were made respectively. The 3 types of the adult women were selected as models in a way to represent the S(S1), M(S2), L(S3) the female body indices of the K. S. The models wearing the 3 types of experimental clothes were taken pictures from the front, side and back, which the pictures were used for the evaluations for the visual effects. For the evaluation, the questionaire from 12 to 18, associated with the body types and images respectively were completed and collected in an investigative way. The visual effects by the waist gathering and body size are composed body and image emerged the four factors. Conclusively, the volume of the waist gathering gives a benefit only in terms of the appropriateness in which the voluminous gatherings compensate for the defects of the body type while too much gathering leads to the negative effects. The visual effects from the increased gathering gives the impressions of the more activity with the snugness as it decreases the feminine effects. The evaluation indices like the stiffness or the masculine images might be more or less predominant in this case. This might be ascribed to the fact that the Sarrouel pants were originated from the men's trousers in a real sense.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.955-965
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• 2008

This study used the method that measure the participants' responds on the experiment, and the measurement means is a survey. The primary factor plan is $5{\times}2{\times}3{\times}2$. The independent variable are neckline(5), trousers or skirt style(2), somatotype(3), culture(2), and the dependant variables are physical visual effect and the favor of clothe design. In cases of Korean, thin somatotype had better were V-neckline suit for looking shoulders wide because they have too narrow shoulders, and were pants suit than skirt suit for looking pelvis major. thin somatotype person who wants to look tall should wear china collar or tailored collar suit with pants. If she wears round neckline suit with skirt, the lower part of body and the height look tall. Pants suit with V neckline and skirt suit with china collar make standard somatotype looked having wide shoulders. Standard somatotype person with wide shoulder should avoid this style. The size of waist and pelvis was looked thick in round neckline and was looked thin in V neckline. So it will be better to find the right suit for one's weakness. Obesity had better wear V neckline to look neck slim and not wear stand and tailored collar. When obesity person wears pants suit, she is looked having slim waist than skirt suit. In case of American, thin somatotype in pants suit looks much taller than in skirt suit when she wears round neckline and stand collar suit. Standard somatotype has no difference because it is the basic shapes. Generally, it goes with all kinds of suit design. The belly and pelvis of American's obesity look fatter and bigger than Korean's obesity. The same with Korean, round neckline suit makes obesity looked belly and pelvis fat and big.