• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.63-78
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• 2020

Korean Chinese, immigrants to China, have developed their own traditional costume culture. This paper aims to analyze the traditional costume culture of the Korean Chinese and to provide data for posterity. The research methods are literature research, survey research, and analysis research. The results are as follows: According to the changes over generations, the top of women's Hanbok has changed in length as has the jeogori (jacket), the git (collar), and the gooreum (breast-tie). The width of the git, dong-jeong (thin white cloth-covered paper collar of Hanbok), the sleeve, and gooreum have also changed. The git and the barae (the curve part of the sleeve) have changed from straight patterns to curves. The skirt had changed in wrinkles arrangement, length, and silhouette. The men's Hanbok jeogori and sleeves were lengthened; the pants became wider and were lengthened, and the collar also became curved. The vest has not changed and the du-ru-ma-gi (coat) that once disappeared is being worn again; the bae-ja (vest) and magoja (over-jacket) are worn frequently in modern times. The garments mainly used natural fiber until the development of synthetic fibers, but the treand has been the use of luxurious natural fibers in modern times. The initial color pattern was achromatic, but that changed with the appearance of synthetic fibers, and nowadays it is mainly the garmetnt can display a variety of colors. In addition, hairstyles and shoes have been eveolved from traditional to modern styles.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.51-59
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• 2024

Qiang ethnic group is one of the fifty-six ethnic minorities in China, and Qiang embroidery, as an important achievement of Qiang's intangible cultural heritage, is the precipitation and testimony of the history and culture of the Qiang ethnic group. However, with the development of the times, traditional and ancient Qiang embroidery is facing a dilemma due to the problem of a single form of communication. Therefore, it is necessary to add new communication media for Qiang embroidery to help it spread and develop better. In this paper, we extract the core representative patterns of Qiang embroidery, use the "shape grammars" as the rules of morphological changes, and generate new decorative pattern patterns with the characteristics of Qiang embroidery by adding, deleting, mirroring, rotating, and other relevant rules of changes, and combine the new patterns with the rules of formal beauty to combine the layout, which is then applied in the design of different cultural creations and products. The new patterns are combined with the rules of formal beauty and applied in the design of different cultural and creative products. To provide a quantitative method for the digital protection of Qiang embroidery in the new era of Chinese traditional art, and also provide new ideas for the industrialization application.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.83-101
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to investigate relation between kucha and Korea by comparing costume. The results are as follows. First, During 508th century, wall paintings of Kizil and Kuizilkargha showed traditional costume such as cutting hair , lapel coller and fitting sleeve coat, pants, boots , belts and knife. Kumtura were also in 6 th, but under the influence of China and Hoehol (회골) after 7th. Second, Men and women cutting hair except king, they put on cone shaped hat and Kun (건), clothing were made of felt and kun(면). Third, it was influenced by Iran that cutting hair in Silla (신라) and Kucha. In Silla , round neckline and V neckline were existed except lapel collar. Jeweled knife of Silla and Kuncha , pattern of Kumdonglee(금동복) showed cultural exchange of centural Asia and Korea along the Silk Rood. It is conscious that Silla preferred centural asia of texture and jewels by prohibition of costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.31-39
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• 2002

The analysis revealed that the pattern represent the function of written language, the Miao's idea of nature as tie object of worship and exorcism, and their primitive thinking. The patterns are chiefly embroidered collars, shoulders of blouse, waist blind and hem lines of skirt. The design of patterns are animals and plants and geometrical figured. Most of patterns are dragon, fishes, birds, butterflies, which are liked by the Miao people. The patterns are highly imaginative and true to life, and are made with strong national and popular features.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

At the beginning of the modern times, orientalism and ethnic character was the main stream of current fashion. Early in the twentieth century, orientalism had a tremendous affect on various areas of society, culture, and art. Particularly, it inspired and activated the design of costume. A great variety of colors and construction of the Orient and geometrical simplicity were based on the creation of modern costume. Ethnic placed weight on the Orient because Japan strengthened competitiveness and China opened the door to foreign countries. Therefore, a large number of the oriental costume produced by a variety of fashion designers. The oriental handicraft, motif and colors of the traditional costume have been used in modern costume. In addition, they are precious ideas for designers. This thesis is about a Study on costume embroidery close to fashion through the oriental embroidery and the concept of oriental embroidery. It is also a study on patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery shown in modern fashion and practical use through the designers works. First, concept, process of change, patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery are mainly discussed. 1.The oriental embroidery consists of life, Buddhism, appreciation and costume embroidery. Embroidery was widely used for a variety of purposes. First, it is to make a good impression and beauty. Second, to decorate many kinds of patterns and shapes. Last, to indicate social status and stages. 2.The origin of the oriental embroidery started in Persia. was It greatly developed in Iran and was introduced in Korea via China. We are reminded of the oriental embroidery of China. China is the original place of oriental embroidery. Oriental embroidery has developed the peculiar embroidery according to each climate, custom and nationality. On the basis of these, the practical use of the oriental embroidery on modern fashion is presented through patterns, skills and colors which leads Korean designers use. Even though the oriental embroidery is not very popular among people owing to a great deal of cost and a demand for labor, the patterns and colors of the embroidery has been already familiar with the contemporaries A more profound study on the oriental embroidery will supply a great deal of material and ideas to the fashion industry. Moreover, an effort to raise self-pride in traditional culture will be also in need.

• The Journal of Pediatrics of Korean Medicine
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.15-44
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• 2023

Objectives The purpose of this study is to analyze the types of childhood simple obesity and suggest clinical symptoms, treatment principles, and traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) treatments for each type. Methods All kinds of literature published by the China National Knowledge Infrastructure (CNKI) up to August 20, 2022 were analyzed. We extracted information about types of childhood simple obesity, relevant clinical symptoms, treatment principles and TCM treatments. Results 25 studies were included. Spleen deficiency with dampness obstruction, gastrointestinal dampness-heat, internal excess of phlegm-dampness were the most reported. Spleen deficiency with dampness obstruction has symptoms of powerless, heavy limbs, pale tongue, teeth-marked tongue, sunken and slippery pulse. As a treatment, herbal medicine (HM) like modified Banggihwanggitang and acupoint like Joksamri were mainly reported. Gastrointestinal dampness-heat has symptoms of thirst, constipation, edacity, rapid hungering, heavy limbs, red tongue, slippery and rapid pulse. HM like Modified Xiehuangsan to clear heat was mainly reported. Internal excess of phlegm-dampness has symptoms of heavy limbs, lack of strength, tongue with white slimy fur, slippery pulse. Modified Ijintang to dry dampness to resolve phlegm was mainly reported. Conclusions This study analyzed types of pattern, clinical symptoms, treatment principles, and TCM treatments of childhood simple obesity. Based on this study, it is necessary to derive a standardized dialectical information that reflects the domestic situation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.2
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• pp.134-147
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• 2016

The mainstay of modern fashion design has always been Western costumes. Though Asian costumes do get featured in collections at times, most instances are just instances of the western culture showing curiosity toward non-mainstream costumes. Until recently, Japan, which has been the most active in cultural exchanges, has been the main recipient of these curiosities, and has been used as the representative style and culture of East Asia. What needs to be let known is that Korea has its own costume style and culture, which have been developed according to its tradition and beliefs. Hanbok, which is the representative traditional costume in Korea, has existed since the beginning of the Kochosun dynasties. I started this study to figure out the design source of Hanbok's shape and develop it into a modern costume. In the fashion industry, "Mandarin Collar" and "Kimono Sleeve" are common terms, And I hope that words like 'Korean Collar' and 'Hanbok Sleeve' will one day become a household term. Hanbok contains Korea image. And its shape is formed depending on how Koreans have been treating all sorts of objects or things for many years. If my study can identify and express the unique Korean way of pattern and considering clothes, which is clearly different from those of China and Japan, I will be able to establish a concept of 'Korean style', that people of the world could come to recognize.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.873-887
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• 2010

Yuan Shi Kai, the first President of the Republic of China, established a ceremonial uniform system based on ancient styles in 1914 just before the national polity was changed to the Empire of China in 1915. This system is Jisiguanfuzhi (a system on costumes for memorial services), and figures included in the system are Jisiguanfutu (figures showing costumes for memorial services). This study is the first to examine Jisiguanfuzhi and Jisiguanfutu and to approach the background idea of the establishment of the system with a focus on the meaning of 'unity.' Jisiguanfuzhi regulates the ceremonial uniform system of all classes from the President along with the 1st-class to the 5th-class people. The uniform consists of a crown, robe, belt, the mid-section cloth, and boots. In addition, the uniforms of ritual musicians and dancers are included. The basic principles in establishing the system were the restoration of ancient systems, the adoption of convenience, the acceptance of current practices, and the implication of symbolism. Jisiguanfuzhi clarifies that the pattern of the ceremonial uniforms was modeled on Juebianfu, for religious services. The reason for choosing Juebianfu for religious services was to achieve 'unity' and Juebianfu was associated with 'unity' because it was common to all, from the emperor to the gentlemen class, in ancient times. Yuan Shi Kai tried to show flexibility to the gentlemen class who represented the intellectuals at that time by adopting Juebianfu for religious services, fearing that the gentlemen class might oppose the attempt to restore the imperial system. Therefore, although Jisiguanfuzhi adopted mostly Mianfu and royal sacrificial robes, it also emphasized 'unity' by professing that the uniforms were based on Juebianfu for religious services.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1241-1252
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• 2009

This study is on the internal and external characteristics along with the phenomena of dress and ornaments expressed in them by analyzing Re-orienting Fashion (which is a system of signs and symbols) based on the theories of semiology in the search for the Korean identity by examining a Re-orienting Fashion that is being reinterpreted. Re-orienting Fashion performs the role of signs that act in the spread of Oriental culture through the globalization of traditional dress and ornaments in the Orient. It also has a meaning that converts the world of fashion to a new direction. When analyzing the system of signs and symbols in Re-orienting Fashion (based on the theories of semiology) the conclusions are that an eclectic symbol system has been formed by the combination of the pursuit of modernization in traditional dress and ornaments with post-modernism. A nature-friendly symbol system has been shaped as a natural silhouette in terms of the combination with Eastern philosophy that searches for a harmony with nature according to ecological trends. The ideal of a symbol system means the introduction of design elements in traditional dress and ornaments of the East as a rejection of Western civilization and as an alternative to the fixed pattern of the West.