• 한국의류학회지
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• 제39권1호
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• pp.121-132
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• 2015

All aspects of clothing, including color, are a visible form of expression that carries invisible value. The purpose of this work is to study the expression of resistance in the white Hanbok in modern culture, specifically after the 1980s. Koreans have traditionally revered white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. In Korea, white represents simplicity, asceticism, sadness, resistance against corruption, and the pursuit of innocence. This paper looks at: (i) the universal and traditional values of the color white, (ii) the significance of traditional white Korean clothing, (iii) the resistance characteristics of white in traditional Korean clothes, and (iv) the aesthetic values of white Hanbok. The white Hanbok often connotes resistance when it is worn in modern Korea. It is worn in folk plays, worn by shamans as a shamanist costume, worn by protestors for anti-establishment movements, and worn by social activists or progressive politicians. The fact that the white Hanbok has lost its position as an everyday dress in South Korea (instead symbolizing resistance when it is worn) is an unusual phenomenon. It shows that the white Hanbok, as a type of costume, is being used as a strong means of expression, following a change in the value of traditional costumes as it take on an expressive function.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.99-117
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• 1990

The purpose of this study was to investigate the change of clothes in modem Korean women in terms of a socioeconomical background, the introduction to western clothes, and the improvement of clothes between the opening period of ports in the early 1900's and 1960's. In addition, the study investigated how western clothes became popular in a Korean society along with the traditional' Korean clothes, Hanbok. The radical social change since the opening of ports motivated the change in the way of Korean women's thinking, and consequenty the improvement of Hanbok which developed into the clothes-improvement-movement. It was not until 1905 that the improvement of clothes was hotly debated particularly in the matter of abolishing Jangeui and the extreme length of Jeogori and Chima. The Tongchima-Jeogori style which lengthened Jeogori and shortened Chima was widely accepted as everyday wear until the western clothes substituted them after the Independence from Japanese Conquest. As the length of Chima shortened, there occurred a change in Boson and Jipsin as well. There appeared shoes and Gomoosin in place of Jipsin, socks in stead of Boson and were popularized until after the Liberation in 1945. The popularity of Gomoosin diminished markedly with the diversification of shoes styles, due to the improvement of the standard of living with economic development in the 1960's. The traditional Hanbok was gradually differentiated according to the social status, for instance student, teachers, ordinary women, girls and Kisaeng. Especially since the white clothes caused much trouble in washing and sewing, there came into being the movement of wearing colorful clothes. The Movement of abolishing white clothes and promoting of wearing colorful clothes was enforced during the period of Japaness conquest from the 1920's to the Liberation, which consequently stimulated an interest for colors of clothes. The period under the war between 1937 and 1945 was especially noted for the extreme regulation over the clothes. The Japanese government forced each group of women, e.g., girl students, a young women's association, school teachers, and ordinary women and girls, to wear their own uniforms. Also, It recommended the use of Tongchima in stead of long skirts, and buttons in place of Coreum so as to conserve textile encouraging the use of other substitutes to save resources. The western clothes, a model of clothe's improvement was deemed as a symbol of modernization and enjoyed general popularity. The supply of relief clothes after the Korean war accelerated the expansion of western clothes even further and the trend of westernization along with economic progress in the 1960's resulted in wearing of western clothes as everyday dress. The expansion of western clothes as casual wear rapidly diminished wearing of Hanbok which in turn took the position of ceremonial dress worn in special cases only. Hence the Korean women's clothes were dualized into traditional Hanbok and western clothes and the western clothes that stems on its convenience was settled as everyday wear where as the Hanbok appeared as ceremonial dress stressing on ornamental features. As mentioned aboved, we are able to discovered an orientation in the course of transitional process of modern Korean women's clothes admist diversified changes, which is a consistent pursuit of convenience and practicality based upon progmatism. The trend such as this carne into a finale' as women's dress became dualistic in forms of Hanbok and western clothes, and the change since then is supposed to proceed in two forms of dress featuring its own style.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.765-780
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• 2012

This study was investigated the clothing microclimate, subjective sensation for the improvement of traditional koran high school student uniform so called "Saenghwal Hanbok". For the purpose, casual hanbok school summer uniforms were made. They were made of 4 different textiles materials - P/R, P100, P/C, P/R/S for blouses, P/W, P100, P/R, P/W/F for skirts. Then their clothing microclimate, subjective sensation were tested at room temperature $25{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}10%$ R.H. Clothing Microclimates wearing on the blouses were good matched comfort temperature range. Subjective sensations wearing on the blouses were better than those of traditional koran clothes so called "Hanbok" and quite same for western style clothes. Thermal sensations were indicated some hot condition, and moisture sensations were indicated some wet condition but tactile sensations and comfortable sensations were agreeable. The temperatures of the forehead and the breast wearing on the skirts were indicated the same results with the cases of the blouses. Leg temperatures were some lower than the mean skin temperature, the other parts' temperatures were slightly higher than blouses but the mean skin temperatures were satisfied comfortable ranges. Subjective sensations wearing on the skirts were better than those of the other traditional clothes and even Western clothes. Thermal sensations and moisture sensations were resulted the same with the case of blouses. Currently, P/R material and P/W material seemed to be cool and respectively suitable for blouses and skirts in summer among the materials of modernized Korean traditional costumes and school uniforms, since those materials lowered skin temperature. But better, physiologically pleasant materials for summer clothes should be development in consideration of clothing microclimate and subjective sensation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.125-136
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• 2018

This study classified and analyzed the assignments for the Hanbok skill contests between 1998 and 2017 so that the Korean hanbok can be properly passed down. this study proposes a variety of useful values for the Hanbok culture industry by providing basic data on various Hanbok making techniques to the Hanbok artisan. The results of the analysis of 39 assignments for the Hanbok skill contest are as follows. Firstly, The 20 assignments presented in the Local Skills Competitions consisted of 13 tasks (65%) in formal wear and 7 tasks (35%) in casual wear. Formal wear is mainly comprised of men's and children's wear (85.7%). There are Pungcha Baji, Sagusam, Kkachi Durumagi, Jeonbok & Bokgeon, Durumagi, and others on the formal wear of men'schildren's wear. In casual wear, 66.7% of women's wear such as scarves, skirts, jeogori, Hwejang Jeogori & chima were on the list of assignments. Secondly, All of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were in adult suits. Thirteen tasks (68.4%) were in formal wear and 6 tasks (31.6%) were in casual wear. Nine out of the 13 formal wear tasks (69.2%) were men's clothes. In 6 assignments of the casual wear, men's and women's clothes were presented three times each. Formal wear that had many assignments was the men's Chulik, which was presented three times in 2006, 2008 and 2016. Thirdly, Eighteen (90%) of the 20 assignments presented at the Local Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and the remaining 2 (10%) were for unlined clothes. Eleven tasks (57.9%) out of the 19 assignments presented in the National Skills Competitions were for lined clothes, and 8 tasks (42.1%) were for unlined clothes.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.551-560
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• 2014

In this study, we have focused on various types of costumes for traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae. To analyze their costumes, spot photographs of Ganggangsullae contests from 2011 and 2013 were collected from the Department of Culture and Tourism, Jindo County Office and the Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Costumes were analyzed by categorising them as type, shape and color. Traditional Ganggangsullae costumes are two types: traditional hanbok and saenghwal hanbok. Traditional hanbok design dates back to the late Joseon dynasty and saenghwal hanbok design to the middle Joseon Dynasty. They reflects confucianism, a male-dominated society, totemism, shamanism and Yin-Yang and the five elements theory in agrarian society and community life. Daily dance Ganggangsullae has various types of costumes such as the fusion hanbok, saenghwal hanbok, cheering uniform and casual wear. They show modern color schemes. There is not any magical meaning from Yin-Yang and the five elements theory. Instead, they have individualism, liberty, equality and welfare in information-oriented society. So its costumes are easy and comfortable clothes. But traditional hanbok, fusion hanbok and saenghwal hanbok are inspired from Korean identiry. Even though traditional Ganggangsullae and daily dance Ganggangsullae have different costumes and ideology, they have a common denominator 'playfulness.' It will function as a key for Ganggangsullae to be performed continuously over the period.

• 감성과학
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2022

최근 들어 한옥마을과 같은 전통문화를 즐길 수 있는 장소에서 한복 대여를 통해 남녀노소 누구나 쉽게 한복을 체험할 수 있게 되었다. 또한 한복을 착용하는 데서 그치지 않고 인증샷을 찍어 SNS에 공유함으로써 한복 체험이 선풍적인 인기를 얻게 되었다. 하지만 한옥마을과 같은 특정한 장소에서 할 수 있는 한복 체험을 제외하고는 일상생활에서 한복의 대중화는 어려운 실정이다. 따라서 한복을 일상복으로 대중화하기 위해서는 한복의 편의성뿐만 아니라 한복에서 느껴지는 감성적인 만족까지 반영하여 한복을 디자인을 하는 것이 중요하다. 본 연구는 선행연구를 통해 추출한 한복에서 느끼는 소비자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성 어휘 28개를 활용하여 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 소비자의 감성을 7점 리커드 척도로 측정하였다. 그리고 한복 유형별로 '느껴진다'에 해당하는 5점 이상의 점수를 기록한 감성 어휘와 감성 카테고리를 분석하였다. 또한 한복 유형별로 성별에 따른 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증하였으며, 그 결과 호감 카테고리에서만 남녀 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 마지막으로 한복 유형을 전통 한복(배냇저고리, 색동저고리, 성인 전통 한복, 전통 혼례복)과 현대 한복(아동 생활 한복, 여자 생활 한복, 남자 생활 한복)으로 구분하여 감성 카테고리의 평균차이를 검증한 결과 6개의 감성 카테고리인 '유쾌감, 심미감, 조화감, 신선감, 호감, 안정감'에서 전통한복과 현대한복 간의 유의한 차이가 있었다. 본 연구에서 도출한 한복 유형별로 느껴지는 감성어휘에 대한 분석 결과는 소비자에게 보다 감성적인 만족을 제공하는데 도움이 되리라 기대된다.

• 감성과학
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2018

최근 들어 한복에 대한 문화수용자들의 관심이 증가함에 따라 다양한 한복들이 시장에 등장하고 있다. 문화수용자들의 요구사항을 충분히 반영한 한복이 일상복으로까지 확산되려면 한복의 기능성 측면뿐만 아니라 한복을 착용하면서 느끼는 감성적인 만족까지 가져다주는 것이 중요하다. 하지만 한복을 경험하면서 표출되는 문화수용자의 감성에 대한 기존 연구가 부족한 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 선행연구를 통해 심리학, 언어학, 감성공학 등의 다양한 분야에서 기존의 연구결과와 참고문헌을 활용하여 수집한 182개의 감성어휘를 활용하여 델파이 기법과 적합성 평정을 위한 설문조사를 통하여 한복에서 표출되는 감성어휘 28개를 추출하였다. 본 연구를 통해 추출된 28개의 감성어휘는 한복에서 느끼는 문화수용자의 감성을 표현하기 위한 감성어휘라고 정의할 수 있다. 또한, 요인분석을 통해 최종 선택된 28개의 감성어휘들 간의 상관관계를 이용하여 어휘들을 그룹핑하였다. 결론적으로 요인분석을 통해 추출된 6개의 요인에 적재된 감성어휘들은 각 요인에 적재된 감성어휘들의 공통적 특성에 따라 '유쾌감', '심미감', '조화감', '신선감', '호감', '안정감' 등 6개 감성 카테고리로 구분할 수 있었다. 본 연구를 통해 추출된 6개의 감성 카테고리는 사용자들이 한복에서 느끼는 대표감성이라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구의 결과로 도출한 28개의 감성어휘와 6개의 대표감성은 한복에서 표출되는 문화수용자의 감성을 측정하는 데에 필요한 기초자료로 활용할 수 있을 것이라 기대된다. 향후 연구과제로는 본 연구에서 추출한 대표감성을 이용하여 한복에서 느끼는 문화수용자의 감성을 측정하기 위한 구체적인 평가스케일을 도출해보고자 한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.93-103
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• 1999

This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권3호
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• pp.109-121
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• 2018

Recently, it is one of the popular fashion and cultural events that people of the younger generation put on a hanbok and take a picture together with communicating by SNS. For this reason, the rent-hanbok market takes a big part of the Korean traditional costume market. Therefor, the recognition of hanbok is changed from the style of uncomfortable and ceremonial clothes, to becoming popular as everyday dress in the younger generation. The various designs of the rental hanbok show two different opinions. One is the increasing popular and general public interest and demand for wearing and showing off traditional hanbok fashions in a positive outlook. Another is the case of the wrong stereotype and knowledge for traditional costume which results in a negative outlook for this type of fashion statement. This study is to look into renting hanbok jeogori for women in Seoul and in Junju. There are 39 styles available in joegori. That being noted, the traditional jeogori has seop and git with dongjung. But it is seen that rental jeogoris do not have the seop, or have the dongjung position as similar to the Po as seen on the men's coat. The showy and colorful materials feel bad and are poorly ventilated. And excessive price competition causes a decreased quality of renting hanbok. Now the rental hanbok business needs to change; to have to make renting hanbok with the correct historical understanding, and it is necessary to have to stop the indiscriminate acceptance of foreign culture.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.