• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.289-306
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• 2021

The study aims to define the Korean Wave as global attention to Korea's unique culture and consider the specificity of traditional Korean fashion images in Korean Wave content. The research method of this study is a case study through literature research. In order to collect Korean Wave content on YouTube, 24 channels with the highest number of views were selected from among content uploaded from 2018 to the present through keyword search, and up to two channels with high views showing traditional Korean fashion images. As a result of selecting the analysis target, 41 Korean Wave videos and 368 costumes were selected and analyzed based on fashion style elements, including item, color, detail, motif, styling, silhouette, and accessory. As a result of the study, music, broadcast, fashion, and other content were found in the Korean Wave content fields in which Korean fashion style appeared, and the characteristics of each field were derived. Music content was characterized by fashion style excluding stereotypes about traditional Korean costume, broadcast and fashion content was characterized by fashion style inherited from traditional costume, and other content was characterized by symbolic fashion style of traditional culture. This study is meaningful in revealing the formative characteristics of traditional Korean design elements recently shared online through the study of Korean traditional fashion images in Korean Wave content.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.407-426
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• 1996

The study, "a semiotic analysis on 1930′s costume", is based on semiotic theory which analyze the meaning of signs. In the novels, "흙" and "삼대", character′s costume were used as a visual language that implies massages of character′s status, class, and the view of value. Analyzing the meaning of clothing signs, clothing could deliver the people′s informations to others and could be first things when people accept new value. The object of the studies are the novels, Hulk(흙) and Samdae(삼대) which are written by lee, Kwang-Soo and Yeom, Sang-Seob. In the novels, the social structure is classed as modern and traditional after we accept the western cultures and institutions. The traditional clothing, Han Bok, were dressed by the conservative woman. However, we could find the modernized woman dress with the western dress and the modified traditional style. According to the result of the research, we could find that clothing could be a sign which indicates value and also clothing is one of the first thing to change when people acquired new value.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.9
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• pp.43-54
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to survey the system of the Korean Gangsin-mu shaman costume and its formative character and to fine out the traditional follow patterns of government officials' attires and Po's meaning of it. The overall shape of variety 'Po's in modern times are similar to the traditional ones, but they differ greatly in size, detail color, and ornamental design. The sleeves have slits in the armholes, which can allow the hands to be drawn out easily. In addition, the knot buttons are used in the modern costumes. They are based on different formation skills from those of the traditional The original color of the shaman's costume is not their taste in color but symbolic, modern costumes color show the shaman's taste in color. This change mean a more accentuated visual effect than incantatory meaning. Another reason for color change is also the costume's material. A kind of constituent element uses synthetic fiber in modern times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.129-141
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• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.415-443
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• 1994

This thesis, drastically breaking from the prior form of art, searched mutual relationship between surrealism centering around surrealism which tried to liberate the spirit of humanbeing by investigating internal world of the humanbeing. That is to say, it is the purpose of this thesis to study the relationship between artistic trend and costume by grasping how the artistic trend of an age was specifically accepted and expressed to the modern costume as the foundation of fashion. Followings are the searched results for searching mutual relationship of the surrealism and modern costume. At first, surrealism made it possible from modern costume to an expression of formative art, and at the same time emerge from existed uniform costume, and thus presented new possibility to the harmony of costume and art with fresh and avant-garde sense. Second, by being applied the expressing method of depaysement which could materialize surrealistic image to the modern costume from various angels, and thus it suggested new aesthetic conception different from general conception of the traditional costume. Third, with regard to modern costume, introduction of various object due to thought of surrealism was a new and innovative attempt, and thus it suggested infinitive possibility of creation. So, it suggested that we could thrown away a fixed idea and that every objects could be moulded. As the result of the afore-said, wide application of the idea and formative feature of surrealism with regard to modern costume did not only ring the diversification and individualization of the costume escaped from the past traditional idea, but also at the same time prepared modern costume with the moment to develop as a formative arts.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.173-182
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• 2010

In this study, textile designs were developed by applying Norigae for motives, were digital-printed for it's eco-friendly, delicate and short printing time and as final products, necktie, bag and bedding was developed with them. The purposes of this study were to develop a unique textile design, and then to enhance the competitiveness of Korean textile industry in the world market and pass down a Korean traditional fiber art cultural legacy. The results are as follows Norigaes are a sort of Korean traditional ornaments worn on women's Korean traditional costume. These can vary in color, material, shape, composition and said to have very high artistic value from the standpoint of the modern view. And these are symbols of happiness and women's longing of Korean traditional society. So Norigaes are worthy of applying Korean traditional motive for modern textile design. The textile designs applied a Norigae in this study were estimated comparatively high.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.85-102
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• 2002

This research surveys the forming process of Practical Korean Costume and its social factors and examines Hanbok reformation. The international mode of '86 Seoul Asian Games and '88 Seoul Olympic Games in the 1980's called for the modernization of Hanbok. It is necessary for us to inherit modernized Hanbok which is endowed with the traditional beauty. The purpose of this research is to develop Practical Korean Costume design for focused on functionality as well as on keeping the traditional beauty This study consist of theoretical study and positive study. Theoretical study has the esthetic characteristics(structure characteristic, formative characteristic and the characteristic of color). Grounded upon survey on brands, I have suggested designs that maintain Hanbok's superiority and functionality to fit modern life. Most of Practical Korean Costume shops could not fractionalize customer. So it need to subdivide and specialize customer and investment to improvement of design. Practical Korean Costume will have to be made to maintain dignity by using high quality materials and a coordinate goods will have to be developed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.47-55
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• 2003

This study was aimed at analyzing the woman costume presented in the korean modern novel by continuity, mixture, and discontinuity. For the costume analysis, the korean modern novel written from 1910 to 1945 were used. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Continuity: It doesn't mean discontinuity from the past but succession and development of the past, which explains about the costume culture for the period from 1910 to 1919. During this period, people tended to wear korean traditional costume in an effort to maintain their national identity. 2. Mixture: It means the effort to synthesize and develop past, present and future, which explains about the apparel for the period from 1920 to 1937. During this period, western culture was introduced much into korea to be established as part of our people's life. The new generation of women who studied abroad introduced the western costume throughout the cities, while the convenient western costume served to improve korean traditional costume. 3. Discontinuity: It means a conscious departure from the past as well as a critical reaction to the past, which explains about the costume culture for the period from 1938 to 1945. For this period, western costume was popular among new generation of women, while it was more diversified with increasing population wearing them. Many country men and women proceeded to wear the western costume.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of traditional blue color between Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. Korea and Japan as the neighboring country of geographically and historically, but showed obvious difference in traditional color. In this study we investigated the blue color characteristics that appear on Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. We researched the characteristics of blue color on color names and color tones through the old Korean and Japanese literatures, costume remains and restoration dyeing fabrics. This study researched the Chosun Period in Korea and Edo Period in Japan. The results of this study Were as following; Many differentiation colors appeared in Chosun and Edo period than former ages. These differentiation colors were made giving differences gradually in basic color, hue, value and chroma. The blue color names appeared 40 names in Chosun Period and 57 names in Edo Period. In these blue color names of Chosun and Edo Period, the common color name was not more 'indigo'. The most highly appearanced blue color hues of costume remains in Chosun and restoration dyeing fabrics in Edo Period were blue and purplish blue. The most highly appearanced blue color tones were dull and moderate. By result of preceding descriptions, the characteristics of national color were not come from difference of dye and dyeing method, could know that come from difference of society and cultural environment.