• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.217-244
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• 1997

This study is about the Korean Jockey's uniform, etc. and horse riding costume as the traditional riding culture grows. I studied informations from the Korea Racing Association's equestrian park, equine museum and Seoul Racecourse Trainers & Jockey's Association. The international regulations of riding costume are compared with Korean regulations, and I consulted some reference books, materials of sports wear and catalogues of some brands regarding horse equipment. The contents includes ; 1. Analysis of informations about horse racing 2. Study of racing, for detail comparative analysis on the following aspects ; -Symbolism, riding costume of jockey, that is, color·pattern·and some formal designs. 3. Suggestion for reasonable and fashionable riding costumes. In the aspects of design, there have not been any historical records, and material adjustments about riding costume in Korea. Therefore we should make more efforts to do developing our traditional costume culture. The result o this study is as follows ; 1. Riding is the sport of etiquette and manners. 2. Most of riding wears are the casual wear centered foreign licenced brands. 3. Study and investment upon specialized material development and processing technology are in demand 4. The need of the consumers are to be satisfied by the quality improvement of the native products design. In addition, we perform to horse racing which is fine play and leisure sports in current society. The horse riding will be a popular sports such as golf, wind surfing, skiing, etc. with the period including lots of kinds of leisure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.10-25
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• 2010

The culture of the play of Korean ancient times is well described in the mural painting of Goguryeo. The example is people appearing in the play painting of performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatics out of 20 mural painting of genre. Their costume is broadly classified into performance, dance, hunting, and acrobatic costume and can be subdivided according to the types of costume. First, the head gear of play costume reflected the formality and social conditions of play. In the performance and hunting costume, all performers wore gwanmo(official hats), which seemed to make it a rule to wear gwanmo. Gwanmo was borrowed intactly from Goguryeo without any changes or decorations, which showed that the status symbolism of head gear was applied intactly to play costume. Second, the play costume of Goguryeo enhanced efficiency by blending daily costume with elements and decorations needed for play performance. Specifically the change of length was prominent: the short sleeves of jeogori(traditional blouse), the long sleeves of dance costume, and fastening below the knee or putting into the long shoes to shorten the length of baji(traditional pants). Finally, as it is well known that there was some differences in the expression modes of daily clothes in Goguryeo between Tonggu and Pyeongyang. Similarly, play costume tried to change costume according to the subject of play but maintained the locality and peculiarity of Goguryeo costume. Although performance costume showed many local differences, it also had similarity and peculiarity. In dance costume, long sleeves and patterns which frequently appeared in the Tonggu area reappeared in the Pyeongyang.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.105-121
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to investigate clothing socialization in Korean fairy tales by the socialization theory. Clothing socialization analyzed of seven categories-norm, role, self-identity, morality, institution, social class and social change, From the costume in the Korean fairy tales, clothing socialization can be visualized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.77-91
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• 1998

The present study collected and analyzed the Korean's folk-belief related to Koran traditional costume culture which are handed down from ancestor and are known to present Korean society as of 1990's. The purpose of the present study is to understand emotion and the view of Korean people, and to understand the social roles of the costumes in Koran traditional society more deeply and more comprehensively. The study was conducted by document analysis and interview. The results of the study are summerized as follows: Folk-belief related to spinning(gilssam), sericultural industry and weaving are mostly enduced from the hope for god quality of work and acquisition of good skill of weaving. There has been also a belief hat gilssam has a magic power to easy delivery and fecundity. Most Folk-belief of taboo related to clothing constraction proposed to people pay great care while they are sawing. Some ways of management of clothing has been related to the manners of which are associated with the differentiation between high and low level and predominance of men over women that was originated fro m confucianism. Socks(busun) and shoes are also considered to have magic power to prevent from exorcism and demon of ill health. This study suggests that folk-belief give us the wisdom a guideline and lessons for better life, high quality arts and techniques which are handed down from ancestors. Therefore, folk-beliefs having a great value, non-shaped treasures of traditional culture heritage should be collected as many as possible, recorded, and preserved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.53-60
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• 2001

The Miao nationality is one of China's major ethnic group. The Miao traditional costume, as an ideographic symbol of the Miao people, have preserved its unique characteristics up to the present time. Historically there were many old names given only for ciothings, still they have reflected the complexities of the ciothings of the Miao people. The southeast Guizhou (Qiandongnan) modal of dress and ornament are fashionable in countries in the valley of Qingshui River such as Taijiang, Kaili, Leishan, Jianhe, Huangping, Shibing, which are densely populated with the Miao nationality. Women's traditional wear for the most part consists of a short coat with straight sleeves and the left lapel of the collar overlaps the right one (In some areas, the right lapel overlaps the left one). For lower garments, they wear long or medium sized pleated skirts, broad waistbands and leggings. Their attire may be of the same style, but there exist marked regional differences and distinctive features in dress materials, workmanship, contents and variety of designs and colour matching, as evolved from tradition. Merely from the embroidering skill and the materials used, one can judge where the dress is made.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.32-49
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• 2008

The Torajan people who started to receive increased attention from the 1990 are one of the many ethnic groups of Indonesia. This paper intends to examine Torajan Ceremonies practied today in the modern world, driven by the Torajan people's age-old perspective of life and death (and the world after) that comes from their background on traditional lifestyle and (animated) folk religion/belief. It focuses on the ceremonial Dances, which is one of the most important element in Torajan Ceremonies, and gain deeper insight through its costumes and ornaments which traditionally revealed the social status of hosts and performers. In ceremony, the most important division is the classification of ritual into Aluk rampe matallo(life facing ritual ) and Aluk rampe matampu? death ritual). So Traditional Toraja dances may be classified into two genres: life related ritual dances and death ritual dances. Especially the funeral ceremonies in Toraja has been rather more famous on its spectacle aspect to outsiders however its relationships to the broader theme of Torajan Ceremonies and ceremonial dances are very less known and sources on this topic are also very scarce. Fortunately, I was able to witness one of such an ritual event. I did see one kind of the funeral rituals which is the most dramatic and symbolically rich performances in Toraja. Here, a brief account of its will highlight some dimension of ceremony, personfood, and potency in Torajan thought and action.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.69-73
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• 1999

Korean and Japanese, both people have a lot of similarity and complexity in terms of physical constitution and culture. This study might be the first implementation that tries to figure out constitutional differences of both people in scientific way. In this study, subjects were from each country, had been exposed $5^{\circ}C$ environment wearing each country's traditional costume- so called Hanbok and Kimono- and all through this experiment we'd compared physiological responses and analyzed differences of cold response go with their own clothing culture. We've obtained following results: Korean had kept maintaining low mean skin temperature basically in cold circumstance, compared with Japanese, have stronger cold tolerance. However, there's no significant difference between Korean and Japanese. Owing to huge influence of wearing other country's traditional costume itself even makes differences of rectal temperature in a cold environment. In addition, in a period of time that wearing other country's traditional costume, thermal sensation would be different according to exposed surrounding temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.113-125
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• 2010

This study is purpose to trace a genealogy of Rainbow stripe in 30 ethnic costumes in East Asia. And with through comparative views between Korean and the other minority that is shown a bilateral relation of rainbow stripe in their costume, we make sure the unique character of rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. The stripe in the costumes was generally used on sleeves with 3~6 patches. There were 10 types of methods for making the stripe including sewing. Weaving and sewing with trimming was also frequently used either and the stripe by weaving with multicolored yarns were mostly found in the southern region of china. Black, blue and red were frequently used in the costume as a main color that was contrasted with rainbow stripe and especially, black was mostly used. Korean preferred bright colors as a main color. Contents of the genealogy of the multicolored stripe in ethnic costume in East Asia are followed. The 28 ethnic groups who used the stripe in their dress except Korean, the Mans, Mongo people and Tibetan were located in the southern region of East Asia. And the other ethnic groups distributed in the northwest and northeast region of East Asia. The distribution of the rainbow stripe in the costume could be grouped into two sections: the southern region people and Korean-the Mongol people-the Tus- the Zangs group. And the latter group was shown strong relation with the culture of Korean's rainbow stripe costume. 11 ethnic peoples including Korean, the Vis, the Miaos, the Tus, the Mongol people, the Chaoxians, the Zangs, the Lahus, the Jinuos, the Hanis, the Luobas and the Dulongs, were saliently used the stripe in their costume. The stripe in Japanese costume was judged that was not a kind of the rainbow stripe was shown the other ethnic groups, was a color arrangement by layered dress or geometrical pattern. From above, we could recap a particular characteristic of the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume. Many colors were used in the stripe and bodies than the other ethnic people and the color was bright. In many cases, a color of patch at the point of armhole was red and Black color was not used in the stripe. The width of patch was a relatively narrow and regular. It has shown that the rainbow stripe in Korean traditional costume was organized independently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.594-604
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• 2000

This study aims to investigate the changes in the Wedding costume for Paebak(Hyunkugorye) in Westernizing Korean society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analyzed the related literature for the first half of the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 116 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. It is obvious that bridegroom and bride wore the same clothes for Hyunkugorye and the formal wedding ceremony in the early twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, wonsam was rather more widely used than hwalot as the bride's wedding costume in the late twentieth century. But there were many changes starting from the early 1970s. The changes were deviated from the traditional style and became more decorative and somewhat crude: that is, people began to embroider wonsam and the piping was added to the collar of danryung. All these changes resulted from the pursuit of commercial interests with the misunderstanding of and the indifference to traditional beauty, while Korean society had experienced the Japanese rule of Korea, the Korean War and the industrialization during the 1960s and 1970s. Therefore, to establish appropriate wedding culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people who get involved in wedding business for traditional wedding culture and clothes, because nowadays . most of bridegrooms and brides borrow ceremonial costume for Hyunkugorye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.91-105
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• 2015

This paper accomplishes the following points: First, the costume style held by women in the Silla dynasty are examined. Second, a new fashion concept is drawn from Silla's costume images with lessons from analyzing how major brands from China and Japan have adopted their own traditional images. Third, a Korean fashion concept is crafted to reflect important modern fashion design factors. The conclusions of this study are: The concept of Korean fashion using Silla costume image based on the 2015 S/S trend was developed and suggested as: 'Harmony of Contrast', new beauty created by mutually contrasting things; 'Timeless' transcending time-space flowing from the past, present, to future; 'Empathy' where past and present are harmonized; 'Modern with Antique' expressing a new style modernism where the old retains value. The efforts to express identity via conceptualization of Korean fashion are an effective strategy that satisfies the goals of setting Korea's fashion design apart from others and spreading Korean culture.