• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.709-725
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• 2021

The study focused on the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Carl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and Fendi until his recent death. The range of the study was from the 2017 S/S Collection to the 2019 F/W Collection, which collected a total of 767 fashion photographs, including 483 Chanel, 284 Fendi, with tops, bottoms and dresses at VOGUE (https://www.vogue.com). According to the data analysis criteria organized based on prior research and related literature, it was classified in the order of form, color, material, pattern, decoration, fashion image, item and coordination, and content analysis was conducted based on statistical analysis. Overall, the design characteristics of the Chanel collection, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, were rectangle form, tone in tone coloring, combination of identical materials, geometric patterns, and classical images as the main design characteristics of the Chanel collection. The design characteristics shown in the Fendi collection directed by Karl Lagerfeld were rectangle form, tone in tone coloration, hard material combination, abstract pattern, and total coordination. Comparing the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, is as follows. Chanel and Fendi's designs show a lot of rectangle form, tone-in-tone colors, hard-materials and combination of the same material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.962-973
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to understand the harmony of chromatic and achromatic colors of the traditional Korean dress. The subjects were women＇s college students in Korea and America. Chromatic colon, red, yellow, and green color, were chosen for the color of the Korean jacket, and achromatic colors were chosen for the color of the skirt, and then the colors＇ chroma were controlled and value of color was changed. In addition, the three colors of the jacket were combined with four kinds of the colors＇ tone. Then, the students of both countries assessed about the harmony for 48 colorations which were variously incorporated with the tones of skirt and jacket. The results of research can be summarized as follows. When red jackets were combined with skirts of achromatic colors, students of both counties showed the different views in the range of harmony and disharmony for colorations of white(N9) skin and vivid jacket, and white(N9) skirt and dark jacket, and black(N2) skirt and light jacket, and black(N2) skirt and dull jacket. In the tone of yellow jackets and achromatic skirts, students of both counties showed similar responses in that a light yellow jacket was well matched with dark grey(N4) and black(N2) skirt. While Korean students generally evaluated that coloration was well harmonized when low value color was arranged below, American students thought, that the tones of a harmonized skirt were different, according to the jacket＇s tones. When green jackets were combined with stills of achromatic colors, colorations that showed their different views of both countries were a white(N9) skirt combined with vivid, light, dull jackets, and a light grey(N7) skirt and dull jacket, and a dark grey(N4) skirt and dark jacket. Among 48 stimuli of coloration on the chromatic and achromatic colors, Korean students evaluated 16sets and American students judged 28 sets as harmonized colors. Therefore, it came to the conclusion that Korean students had the sense of harmonious coloration of more narrow range than American students.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.838-851
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to investigate the harmony evaluation and the effects used clues on harmony perception in terms of 128 contrast coloration of male shirt and necktie by male and female students. The results are as follows. Among 128 contrast coloration stimuli, female students evaluated 42 set, male students 50 set, so proved that male's range of harmony more extensive than that of female. It is significant difference between female and male on shirt-necktie coloration; vivid red shirt-vivid green tie, dull red shirt-dark blue tie, light red shirt-dull blue tie, dark red shirt-light blue tie, light green shirt-vivid violet tie, light green shirt-light red tie, light green shirt-dull red tie. Especially, in contrast coloration, it was evaluated as harmonized coloration by both male and female as tie was dark tone on the whole.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.28-42
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• 2010

A purpose of this study is to 6nd out how the casual and formal style clothes of stripe pattern giving variety by pattern direction, pattern width, and contrast coloration have an effect on image of wearers. For this, 192 stimuli were made and 1200 testee evaluated them using semantic differential scale. As a result, five image dimensions were drawn as a factor of attractiveness, gracefulness, activeness, visibility, and tenderness. Unlike the value contrast previously researched, it showed that chroma contrast coloration which was interacted with a color tone contrast coloration had an effect on all the 5 image dimensions. This result was recognized as significant clothes dues in evaluating the image of stripe wearers. Besides, clothing style, stripe pattern, and contrast coloration were made clear as an efficient parameter in image presentation of clothing wearers.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 1998

The dyeing properties of modified wool were examined with a series of acid, reactive and cationic dyes. Cationic agent and sulphamic acid were applied to wool fabric for dye assist and resist effect. Wool pretreated with cationic agent showed better uptake of acid and reactive dyes than did untreated wool. On the other hand, the dyeing behavior of wool pretreated with sulphamic acid was found as follows : Acid dyes were poorly resisted with a hydrophobic mechanism but acid dyes were strongly resisted with a hydrophilic mechanism. Reactive dyes were also found to be effectively resisted. Sulphamic acid introduces sulphonate group into wool's structure, it has increased better uptake of cationic dyes than untreated wool. The degree of differential uptake depends on the level of pretreatment and produces a variety of tone-on-tone and multicolor effect in piece dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2010

A purpose of this study was to find out how the casual and formal style clothes of stripe pattern giving variety by pattern direction, pattern width, and contrast coloration have an effect on image of wearers. 432 stimuli were made and 2,800 testee evaluated them using semantic differential scale. As a result, five image dimensions were drawn as a factor of attractiveness, activeness, gracefulness, visibility, and tenderness. In consequence of analysing the image difference by stripe pattern and clothing style, the stripe pattern and clothing style affect image presentation as a significant clue. And besides, as a result of positioning stimuli by image, pattern direction, coloration, and tone combination were important clues that decide image. Consequently, clothing style, stripe pattern, and contrast coloration were made clear as an efficient parameter in image presentation of clothing wearers.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.337-344
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• 2013

This study aims to understand the advertising recall effect in accordance with color scheme of advertising by subdividing it into brand, picture, color, and style. The results of this study are like following. In the results of the study on advertising recall, first, there were significant differences in picture and color recall. The picture recall was the highest in complementary color scheme while color scheme was shown the highest in single and complementary color schemes. Regarding the advertising recall in accordance with subscription time of fashion magazines, second, the advertising recall can be different in accordance with subscription time of magazine, major, purchase experience, and interest. In case of picture advertising recall depending on major, third, majors highly recognized complementary color scheme in picture recall and also similar color scheme in color recall. Regarding the advertising recall depending on experience in purchasing magazines, purchasers highly recognized complementary color scheme in picture recall and also tone-in-tone color scheme in color recall. In case of the advertising recall in accordance with interest in fashion advertising, the group with interest highly recognized complementary color scheme in picture recall and also similar color scheme in color recall.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.194-206
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• 2010

This study was carried out to identify the optimum dyeing conditions for maximum dye uptake of Prunus yedoensis Matsumura flower extract on silk fabric and to investigate hue/tone characteristics and fastness properties of the dyed fabrics. As results, the flower extract was found to contain flavonoids by FT-IR and to show yellowish shade by UV-vis spectrum. Silk fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake to five repetitions of dyeing at $80^{\circ}C$ for 60 min with an extract concentration of 600% owf in terms of both K/S and color differences. Pre-mordanting was more effective to dye uptake than post-mordanting for all of the mordants used. Un-mordanted and pre-mordanted fabric showed YR(Yellow Red) while most of post-mordanted ones did Y(Yellow). Main tones of dyed fabrics were sf(soft) and lt(light) in the case of unmordanting or Al-mordanting whereas they were d(dull) and g(grayish) by post-mordanting with Cu, Cr, and Fe, respectively. The fastness grades to rub and dry cleaning were reasonably good for most dyeing conditions while those to light were poor. Finally dyeing condition for each hue/tone of the dyed silk with the flower extract was optimized considering fastness properties.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.62-71
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• 2012

The purpose of this research is to analyze the characteristics of the color combination in Eco fashion design. 532 pictures related to eco was collected through Eco brand web sites from 2008 through 2011. The characteristics for analysis include color combination and tone. The method of research is content and statistical analysis. The result of the research is summed up below. First, achromatic color was most frequently presented in Eco fashion. Also monotone color or single color combination were displayed often. Secondly, many dresses were of single color combination and T-shirt items displayed contrast color combination created by luminosity difference. Third, the outcome of comparing seasons was that both seasons presented single color and contrast color combination. The difference between countries proved slight as single color coloration dominated. This considered the process which was non-chemical manufacture for eco-friendly. For the combination of colors, the same coloration with single colors or contrast coloration due to the differences of brightness were presented quite often, generally, the modern image fashion without fancy factors have shown a lot. These results that minimalism trend was included in eco-friendly image.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.169-178
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop eco-printing method using natural dyes combined with chitosan treatment to impart various pattern effect on cotton fabric. It was examined whether tone-on-tone pattern effects could be produced by screen printing with chitosan paste and subsequently dip-dyed in natural dye bath. For polychromic colorants, fabrics were pre-mordanted and then screen printed with chitosan, while only chitosan printing treatment was applied for monochromic colorants. Color, dye uptake, washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of printed fabrics were measured in relation to the presence of chitosan printing. Pre-mordanting and chitosan printing treatment were applied to such polychromic colorants as madder, sappanwood, onion and cochineal. Also, printing pattern formation on fabrics was evaluated by differences in dye uptake and color. The results suggested that madder, onion and cochineal were effective on pattern formation. Regarding sappanwood, since dye uptake was increased only by pre-mordanting without chitosan printing treatment, there was little color difference and thus patterns were not clearly distinguished. Chitosan printing treatment tended to increase washing, light and rubbing fastnesses of dyed fabrics with polychromic colorants. Chitosan printing treatment was applied to monochromic colorants such as chlorophyll, gardenia and indigo and the effect of printing formation was examined according to the difference in dye uptake. Among monochromic dyes tried, chlorophyll was effective and chitosan printing improved washing and light fastnesses.