• Human Ecology Research
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.55-62
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to identify changes in the sleeve patterns of women's jackets from the end of the 19th century to the early 20th century. To meet this purpose, we analyzed nine sets of historic sleeve patterns. The experimental sleeve patterns were selected from the English costume source books that provided women's costume patterns from the 1890s and 1900s. These experimental sleeve patterns were drafted on the basis of the directions given in the source books. The sleeve lengths, widths, and angles of each sleeve pattern were measured. The results of this study showed that the silhouette of the two-piece sleeves of women's jackets in the 1890s had a tight fit; further, they had a sharper elbow curve than that of 1900s' sleeves. The sleeves of the 1890s' women's jackets were 6-11 cm shorter or narrower than the sleeves of the 1900s' jackets. The under-sleeve inseam angle of the 1890s' sleeve was greater than that of the 1900s' sleeve. The outseam angle of the upper sleeve was greater than the under-sleeve angle of the 1900s' sleeve pattern. The elbow curve of the women's jacket sleeve pattern appeared to be a sluggish silhouette. This change happened as the outseam angle of the under sleeve was reduced. This shows that the elbow curve silhouette of the women's jacket sleeves of the 1890s and 1900s has controlled the change in the under-sleeve outseam angle.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.5-13
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• 2004

This study was performed to investigate the characteristics of denim pants preferred by Korean women in their 20's through the analysis of the sensory test(appearance) and garment space length. Four kinds of ready-made denim pants of national and licensed brand on sale in Korea were used as the experimental garment. The results were as follows: 1. The significant difference among brands were found in the appropriateness of ease in the part of waist belt(front), knee (front), ankle(back) and the total silhouette. 2. In the analysis of garment space length. the significant difference among brands was shown in waist belt part $(FL60^{\circ})$, hip $(FL0^{\circ},\;FL30^{\circ})$, crotch(SRR) and knee(BR60^{\circ}). However, total average was not significant difference. 3. According to analysis of pattern size, the brand N was out of balance in crotch depth and girth. by which it can be said that N got the lowest score in sensory test (appearance). On the other hand, Brand GU was large in circumference with short crotch length. 4. Therefore, the most preferred denim pants pattern of Korean women in their 20's was fit in waist belt. hip. crotch circumference and a little bit tight in crotch depth and length. As the design was limited as straight style. more design and brands must be included for future study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.383-395
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide a formative charateristics by analyzing aesthetic charateristics of Egypt costume expressed in contemporary fashion. The result of this study obtained through this process were as follows. Aesthetic characteristics were expressed as a primative-retro characteristics, and a erotic-retro characteristics and a decorative-retro characteristics. Based on these trends, this study analyzed formative charateristics in an aspect of form, color, material, and decoration. In the modern fashion, unlike the H-line silhouette given by a natural fit in the primitive retro, the erotic retro was characterized in the shape by a tight H-line silhouette. For the color, peach, yellow green, gold, light blue, red, and black were used as the main color. For the material, see-through, gauze, mesh, organdy, and tight vinyl were utilized to emphasize an erotic image and expose a body secretly. For the decoration, the characteristic of erotic retro using the simple or same colors frequently was the use of similar accessories colors matched with material colors. The decorative retro was characterized in the shape by a H-line silhouette connected as a part of clothing which applied passium and a greatly modified silhouette from an Egyptian simple style which was well-matched with splendid accessories. For the color, the broadest range of color changes was found from light pastel such as white, yellow, light pink, burnt orange, blue, purple, silver, gold, and red to strong vivid tones. For the material, modern materials such as organdy, tulle, leather, and furs were often used. For the decoration, passium, an eagle pattern, scarab earrings, a crown, a sneak-shaped coronet, and pictograph printed on the fabric were frequently used.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.327-337
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is for size suitability and fitness improvement for Korean 20's women. This study has classified hip types of 20's women by the 6th Korean Anthropometric Survey(Size Korean), then compared their lower body-type by hip types each other. The results are as follows. Factor analysis in sorting hip types can be explained 77.72% by nine factors. And cluster analysis can be divided into three types. Type 1 is referred to as a general type which has the largest size in the 'Hip circumference', but the buttocks's horizontal sizes are in the middle size besides the hip line. Type 2 is referred to as a protruding type in upper buttocks which is large in protruding volume of upper buttocks, but the buttock's horizontal sizes are small including 'Hip circumference', and buttock's horizontal section form close to circle. Type 3 is referred to as a type which is contrary to Type 2. Type 3 is small in protruding volume of upper buttocks, but large in lower buttocks, and the protrusions in whole buttocks are small, so the side view of Type 3 made gentle fit shape. By these results, the study could classify lower body of 20's women, and it can be basic data for new sizing systems and pattern development of bottoms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.476-487
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to suggest torso patterns that fit the three main body shapes of elderly obese women. To reduce time, costs, and also the trial and error needed to make patterns, the CLO program for 3D test wear was employed. Three virtual models for aged obese women were use, with the YUKA system used to produce torso patterns. 3D simulation of test wear and corrections was done to design optimal torso patterns. The results were as follows: First, for the three models of obese women's body shapes as realized by CLO 3D, Type 1 is lower-body obesity shapes, Type 2 is abdominal obesity shapes, and Type 3 is whole-body obesity shapes. Second, to design the study patterns, actual measurement values, back waist length and waist to hip length, were used. The armhole depth (B/4-1.5), front interscye (B/6+2.3), front neck width (B/12-0.5), front neck depth (B/12+0.5), front waist measurement (W/4+ 1.5+D), front hip measurement (H/4+2+0.5), and back hip measurement (H/4+3-0.5) were calculated using formulas. Third, according to the results of test-wearing the study patterns, reduced front neck width and depth improved the neck fit and reduced armhole depth bettered loose or plunging armhole girth and also reduced the sagging of bust c.. Also, tight sidesfrom aprotruded waist and abdomen improved with the increase of surpluses in the back waist and also back and front hip c. The exterior was enhanced by displacement of back and front darts, which distributed surpluses better.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.137-153
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• 2009

Recently, young men have become more muscular as they become more interested in physical figure. However, most of these muscular men have fit problems regarding ready-made clothes. In view of this, this study aimed to develop a prototype jacket pattern for muscular men. For this study, five muscular men were selected to put on existing jacket pattern for wearing tests. The regression formula, in which muscular men body measures were adopted, was applied to unsuitable parts, especially the areas determined not to be appropriate in the evaluation of existing jacket pattern wearing tests. After the first and the second jacket pattern wearing tests, the final jacket pattern suitable for muscular men was developed. The results of the study were as follows: In order to make up for the problem of the loosening of the lapel area, due to the development of the chest muscle, the chest circumference line on the chest area of the pattern was cut to be 1.0cm wide; thus, the front length was modified with an increase. The wearing tests found that a wearers felt discomfort from the tight armhole area, so the armhole depth was set to be a little lower than that of ready-made clothes. A muscular men needs much more extra quantity in this area because the upper part of the back side is projected due to the greater development of the trapezius muscle and the deltoid than in average men. Hence, concerning the standard line for the length of the back interscye, ease of 1.0cm was added to the regression equation formula {(0.371${\times}$chest circumference+3.145)/2} in order to resolve the discomfort with the back area. Also, for the biacromion length, the upper arm protruded more than the shoulder point of the jacket because of the development of the deltoid and the upper arm muscle, and it was set to be wider than the actual shoulder. In order to solve the problem of discomfort from the narrow neck area during the wearing of a jacket owing to the development of the trapezius muscle, extra ease of 0.5cm was added to chest circumference/12-0.5cm in the existing jacket prototype to the width of back of the neck, and it was corrected to be chest circumference/12.