• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.96
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• pp.239-260
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• 2019

This paper examines the circulation and dissemination of painting during and after the nineteenth century through a case study on the One Hundred Fans paintings produced as decorative folding screens at the time. One Hundred Fans paintings refer to depictions of layers of fans in various shapes on which pictures of diverse themes are drawn. Fans and paintings on fans were depicted on paintings before the nineteenth century. However, it was in the nineteenth century that they began to be applied as subject matter for decorative paintings. Reflecting the trend of enjoying extravagant hobbies, fans and paintings on fans were mainly produced as folding screens. The folding screen of One Hundred Fans from the collection of the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt (hereafter Rothenbaum Museum) in Germany was first introduced to Korean in the exhibition The City in Art, Art in the City held at the National Museum of Korea in 2016. Each panel in this six-panel folding screen features more than five different fans painted with diverse topics. This folding screen is of particular significance since the National Museum of Korea holds the original drawings. In the nineteenth century, calligraphy and painting that had formerly been enjoyed by Joseon royal family members and the nobility in private spaces began to spread among common people and was distributed through markets. In accordance with the trend of adorning households, colorful decorative paintings were preferred, leading to the popularization of the production of One Hundred Fans folding screens with pictures in different shapes and themes. A majority of the Korean collection in the Rothenbaum Museum belonged to Heinrich Constantin Eduard Meyer(1841~1926), a German businessman who served as the Joseon consul general in Germany. From the late 1890s until 1905, Meyer traveled back and forth between Joseon and Germany and collected a wide range of Korean artifacts. After returning to Germany, he sequentially donated his collections, including One Hundred Fans, to the Rothenbaum Museum. Folding screens like One Hundred Fans with their fresh and decorative beauty may have attracted the attention of foreigners living in Joseon. The One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum is an intriguing work in that during its treatment, a piece of paper with the inscription of the place name "Donghyeon" was found pasted upside down on the back of the second panel. Donghyeon was situated in between Euljiro 1-ga and Euljiro 2-ga in present-day Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, a domestic handicraft industry boomed in the area based on licensed shops and government offices, including the Dohwaseo (Royal Bureau of Painting), Hyeminseo (Royal Bureau of Public Dispensary), and Jangagwon (Royal Bureau of Music). In fact, in the early 1900s, shops selling calligraphy and painting existed in Donghyeon. Thus, it is very likely that the shops where Meyer purchased his collection of calligraphy and painting were located in Donghyeon. The six-panel folding screen One Hundred Fans in the collection of the Rothenbaum Museum is thought to have acquired its present form during a process of restoring Korean artifacts works in the 1980s. The original drawings of One Hundred Fans currently housed in the National Museum of Korea was acquired by the National Folk Museum of Korea between 1945 and 1950. Among the seven drawings of the painting, six indicate the order of their panels in the margins, which relates that the painting was originally an eight-panel folding screen. Each drawing shows more than five different fans. The details of these fans, including small decorations and patterns on the ribs, are realistically depicted. The names of the colors to be applied, including 'red ocher', 'red', 'ink', and 'blue', are written on most of the fans, while some are left empty or 'oil' is indicated on them. Ten fans have sketches of flowers, plants, and insects or historical figures. A comparison between these drawings and the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum has revealed that their size and proportion are identical. This shows that the Rothenbaum Museum painting follows the directions set forth in the original drawings. The fans on the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum are painted with images on diverse themes, including landscapes, narrative figures, birds and flowers, birds and animals, plants and insects, and fish and crabs. In particular, flowers and butterflies and fish and crabs were popular themes favored by nineteenth century Joseon painters. It is noteworthy that the folding screen One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum includes several scenes recalling the typical painting style of Kim Hong-do, unlike other folding screens of One Hundred Fans or Various Paintings and Calligraphy. As a case in point, the theme of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" is depicted in the Rothenbaum folding screen even though it is not commonly included in folding screens of One Hundred Fans or One Hundred Paintings due to spatial limitations. The scene of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" in the Rothenbaum folding screen bears a resemblance to Kim Hong-do's folding screen of Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden at the National Museum of Korea in terms of its composition and style. Moreover, a few scenes on the Rothenbaum folding screen are similar to examples in the Painting Album of Byeongjin Year produced by Kim Hong-do in 1796. The painter who drew the fan paintings on the Rothenbaum folding screen is presumed to have been influenced by Kim Hong-do since the fan paintings of a landscape similar to Sainsam Rock, an Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden, and a Pair of Pheasants are all reminiscent of Kim's style. These paintings in the style of Kim Hong-do are reproduced on the fans left empty in the original drawings. The figure who produced both the original drawings and fan paintings appears to have been a professional painter influenced by Kim Hong-do. He might have appreciated Kim's Painting Album of Byeongjin Year or created duplicates of Painting Album of Byeongjin Year for circulation in the art market. We have so far identified about ten folding screens remaining with the One Hundred Fans. The composition of these folding screens are similar each other except for a slight difference in the number and proportion of the fans or reversed left and right sides of the fans. Such uniform composition can be also found in the paintings of scholar's accoutrements in the nineteenth century. This suggests that the increasing demand for calligraphy and painting in the nineteenth century led to the application of manuals for the mass production of decorative paintings. As the demand for colorful decorative folding screens with intricate designs increased from the nineteenth century, original drawings began to be used as models for producing various paintings. These were fully utilized when making large-scale folding screens with images such as Guo Ziyi's Enjoyment-of-Life Banquet, Banquet of the Queen Mother of the West, One Hundred Children, and the Sun, Cranes and Heavenly Peaches, all of which entailed complicated patterns. In fact, several designs repeatedly emerge in the extant folding screens, suggesting the use of original drawings as models. A tendency toward using original drawings as models for producing folding screens in large quantities in accordance with market demand is reflected in the production of the folding screens of One Hundred Fans filled with fans in different shapes and fan paintings on diverse themes. In the case of the folding screens of One Hundred Paintings, bordering frames are drawn first and then various paintings are executed inside the frames. In folding screens of One Hundred Fans, however, fans in diverse forms were drawn first. Accordingly, it must have been difficult to produce them in bulk. Existing examples are relatively fewer than other folding screens. As discussed above, the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum and its original drawings at the National Museum of Korea aptly demonstrate the late Joseon painting trend of embracing and employing new painting styles. Further in-depth research into the Rothenbaum painting is required in that it is a rare example exhibiting the influence of Kim Hong-do compared to other paintings on the theme of One Hundred Fans whose composition and painting style are more similar to those found in the work of Bak Gi-jun.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.97
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• pp.14-54
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• 2020

The overall study of Samsaebulhoedo (painting of the Assembly of Buddhas of Three Ages) at Yongjusa Temple has focused on dating it, analyzing the painting style, identifying its painter, and scrutinizing the related documents. However, its greater coherence could be achieved through additional support from empirical evidence and logical consistency. Recent studies on Samsaebulhoedo at Yongjusa Temple that postulate that the painting could have been produced by a monk-painter in the late nineteenth century and that an original version produced in 1790 could have been retouched by a painter in the 1920s using a Western painting style lack such empirical proof and logic. Although King Jeongjo's son was not yet installed as crown prince, the Samsaebulhoedo at Yongjusa Temple contained a conventional written prayer wishing for a long life for the king, queen, and crown prince: "May his majesty the King live long / May her majesty the Queen live long / May his highness the Crown Prince live long" (主上殿下壽萬歲, 王妃殿下壽萬歲, 世子邸下壽萬歲). Later, this phrase was erased using cinnabar and revised to include unusual content in an exceptional order: "May his majesty the King live long / May his highness the King's Affectionate Mother (Jagung) live long / May her majesty the Queen live long / May his highness the Crown Prince live long" (主上殿下壽萬歲, 慈宮邸下壽萬歲, 王妃殿下壽萬歲, 世子邸下壽萬歲). A comprehensive comparison of the formats and contents in written prayers found on late Joseon Buddhist paintings and a careful analysis of royal liturgy during the reign of King Jeongjo reveal Samsaebulhoedo at Yongjusa Temple to be an original version produced at the time of the founding of Yongjusa Temple in 1790. According to a comparative analysis of formats, iconography, styles, aesthetic sensibilities, and techniques found in Buddhist paintings and paintings by Joseon court painters from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, Samsaebulhoedo at Yongjusa Temple bears features characteristic of paintings produced around 1790, which corresponds to the result of analysis on the written prayer. Buddhist paintings created up to the early eighteenth century show deities with their sizes determined by their religious status and a two-dimensional conceptual composition based on the traditional perspective of depicting close objects in the lower section and distant objects above. This Samsaebulhoedo, however, systematically places the Buddhist deities within a threedimensional space constructed by applying a linear perspective. Through the extensive employment of chiaroscuro as found in Western painting, it expresses white highlights and shadows, evoking a feeling that the magnificent world of the Buddhas of the Three Ages actually unfolds in front of viewers. Since the inner order of a linear perspective and the outer illusion of chiaroscuro shading are intimately related to each other, it is difficult to believe that the white highlights were a later addition. Moreover, the creative convergence of highly-developed Western painting style and techniques that is on display in this Samsaebulhoedo could only have been achieved by late-Joseon court painters working during the reign of King Jeongjo, including Kim Hongdo, Yi Myeong-gi, and Kim Deuksin. Deungun, the head monk of Yongjusa Temple, wrote Yongjusa sajeok (History of Yongjusa Temple) by compiling the historical records on the temple that had been transmitted since its founding. In Yongjusa sajeok, Deungun recorded that Kim Hongdo painted Samsaebulhoedo as if it were a historical fact. The Joseon royal court's official records, Ilseongnok (Daily Records of the Royal Court and Important Officials) and Suwonbu jiryeong deungnok (Suwon Construction Records), indicate that Kim Hongdo, Yi Myeong-gi, and Kim Deuksin all served as a supervisor (gamdong) for the production of Buddhist paintings. Since within Joseon's hierarchical administrative system it was considered improper to allow court painters of government position to create Buddhist paintings which had previously been produced by monk-painters, they were appointed as gamdong in name only to avoid a political liability. In reality, court painters were ordered to create Buddhist paintings. During their reigns, King Yeongjo and King Jeongjo summoned the literati painters Jo Yeongseok and Kang Sehwang to serve as gamdong for the production of royal portraits and requested that they paint these portraits as well. Thus, the boundary between the concept of supervision and that of painting occasionally blurred. Supervision did not completely preclude painting, and a gamdong could also serve as a painter. In this light, the historical records in Yongjusa sajeok are not inconsistent with those in Ilseongnok, Suwonbu jiryeong deungnok, and a prayer written by Hwang Deok-sun, which was found inside the canopy in Daeungjeon Hall at Yongjusa Temple. These records provided the same content in different forms as required for their purposes and according to the context. This approach to the Samsaebulhoedo at Yongjusa Temple will lead to a more coherent explanation of dating the painting, analyzing its style, identifying its painter, and interpreting the relevant documents based on empirical grounds and logical consistency.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.3
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• pp.71-82
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• 2011

This study set out to investigate the identity of everyday headgear, which is often found in many paintings of Tongshinsa, Joseon diplomatic missions to Japan, in the 18th century. That resembles Yu-geon儒巾, but on the top of the headgear are lappets like a roof. The study proceeded as follows: 1) The painting of Tongshjnsa parade in 1711 was used to analyze wearers of everyday headgear because titles of position are shown for each one. 2) Personal records of Tongshinsa in the 18th century were analyzed to examine the cases of everyday headgear. 3) Cases of everyday headgear in literature around the 18th century were examined. Those researches revealed three findings: 1) The names of everyday headgear with a roof shaped top are Gohu-gwan高厚冠 and Yeonyeop-gwan蓮葉冠. 2) Among Tongshinsa, wearers of Gohu-gwan or Yeonyeop-gwan are medical staff, interpreters, painters, and secretaries. However, it doesn't seem to have been distinction between the two types according to social class and position. 3) People wore everyday headgear, that resembled the two types in appearance, such as Mjnja-geon民字巾, Sunyang-geon純陽巾, Hwayang-geon華陽巾, Jeon-geon戰巾, or Jang-geon將巾 in China and Joseon around the 18th century. Among them, Sunyang-geon and Hwayang-geon seem to have had the closest relationship with Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan in terms of shape and character of wearers. The analysis of the research findings led to the two following conclusions: 1) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan were worn as one of everyday headgear to represent appearances of a scholar. 2) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan could be changed versions of the similar everyday headgear or different names of them.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.95-112
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• 2005

Hair styles, dresses and their ornaments are basic measures that show the trend of the times, the people and their life in both Eastern and Western societies. The history of a country could start or be extinguished at any time, but life goes on. Koguryo was founded around Anno Domini and fell at 668 A. D. What was Koguryo people like? How was their hair style and costume? This study aims to respond those questions. The Koguryo ancient mural paintings can be broadly divided into the Jip-An region and the Pyon-Yang region. Among the paintings found, that in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb at the Pyon-Yang region is the biggest and the most splendid. It is a figure genre painting, which contains a kitchen, a rice mill, a stable, a barn, a garage, etc. Those places illustrate the way of life at the time. The painting also comprises a man with a crown, who is seen as the king and owner of this tomb. The woman with a vertically designed hair style is perceived as the queen. A highly guarded and decorated royal parade is also presented in detail. The hair styles and costume evidence in the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb are not seen in the paintings of the Jip-An region. This study inquires into the differences between the Pyon-Yang and lip-An regions through the history and the culture of those areas. Nevertheless, it could prove tentative to confirm the owner of the An-Ak 3rd ancient tomb with the only evidence of the words found in the wall of the tomb. It is the author's intention to study and analyse further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.7
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• pp.125-134
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• 2011

Sumuk drawings are made with water and muk(墨), which are used to express the light, shade and texture of an object. The expression methods of oriental drawing can be divided into three methods: pictorialization, abstractness and realism. The method of pictorialization expresses traditional pictures or letters. Abstractness show an artist's aesthetic feeling through sprinkling, splashing and spreading diffusion of muk. The method of realism is Takbon which makes a copy painting directly from a monument by rubbing a paper with ink. Modern fashion designer attempts to develop a new Sumuk technique based on both oriental drawing style and western watercolor painting style. Rather than following the designated styles of oriental drawings and Korean drawings, new Sumuk technique colors detailed structures expressed as outlines, dots and lines or creates abstract patterns through spreading or spilling in showing theme of flowers, plants and insects. In this study, in order to develop fashion cultural products with Sumuk technique, rubbed copy of the ancient 'Emile bell Takbon' was used. For this study, with the combination of different colors and the patterns from 'Emile bell Takbon', designs for scarfs, shirts and one-piece dresses were created. These techniques enabled to express soft and strong Takbon image in simple Sumuk technique in harmony with modern trends.

• 한국태양에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.177-186
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• 2011

We can expect reduction of the sunlight absorption quantity to a structure and an earth surface, a decline of the surface temperature and a decline of the heat transport volume in what there is a method I give the sunlight reflectance in the aspect to the surface of the building by painting sunlight high reflectance paint, and to reduce the sunlight absorption quantity to a structure and an earth surface and does so, and, in addition, a method high water retentivity of tree planting and the road surface of the city space uses evaporation latent heat of the water by making it, and to restrain a rise in temperature is thought about. and It is thought that I reduce the sunlight absorption quantity to not only the structure but also other structures and attention gathers to the reflexive reflector reflecting in the direction again and it is wide as a marker of a board and the clothing of the traffic sign and is used the incidence energy from a source of light for this reflexive reflector now by there is it and devises surface structure again, and controlling reflection directivity for the sunlight for the purpose of raising night visibility.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.351-356
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• 2009

The study is about how the difference in education levels can affect the subjects' use of color and find out the features of the effect. This experimental study focused on the differences in color expression using the outline picture of a painting before and after being exposed to a full-color picture of the original painting. Differences between two conditions with two different stimuli were observed and the cause of the differences was analyzed based on the number of colors and the quantity of colors and composition of the colors used by the subjects. The study precedes an experiment based on how the level of education though experience can affect the use of colors. This study is focused on the various effects of color usage by children and adults who have various degrees of visual experience. In addition, the study analyzes how design majored subject differed in the use of color from non-design majored subject and compares the use of colors by the two groups. The results showed that design majored subject tended to use less coloring patterns after seeing the stimulus of the Monet picture with more colors, and included the colors from the stimuli they were exposed to. The non-design majored subject who viewed the Mondrian painting demonstrated opposite results by using less number of colors than before seeing the stimuli. In comparison to design majored subject, the variations in selected colors and the quantity of color by non-design majored subject were not consistent.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.7-14
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• 2020

It can be meaningful that this study attempted to analyze the use cases and forms based on the literature on the painting walls of the J oseon Dynasty, and attempted basic research to prevent disaster damage using traditional elements. This study summarizes the use of the Hwabangbyeok wall of J oseon Dynasty as follows. First, Hwabangbyeok wall was used from the early J oseon Dynasty and was adopted by palaces and other major state facilities to cope with fire and theft. Second, the Hwabangbyeok Wall was also referred to as the wall below the lower part of the wall, and was constructed with the purpose of preventing disasters from outside. Third, in an analysis of the Daeseongjeon shrine of Hyanggyo, many construction cases were identified mainly in the Gyeonggi area, which is assumed to be based on production and construction conditions along with local climatic factors. Fourth, it can be said that the Hwabangbyeok wall was basically adopted to prevent comprehensive disaster risk reduction in case of external intrusion and fire.