• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.167-179
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• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.96-113
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• 2016

The observation of the classic plant name 'Hwe', that is to be discussed in this thesis, must be primarily conducted in folk plant research made through old documents. Diverse information such as the characteristics, method of use, and distribution of plants is scattered in old documents. However, reviews of classic plant names should be made to use such information. This is because information on plants can only be used after thorough verifications are made of the plant names. 'Hwe' is interpreted as various meanings in Korea but it is mostly used to mean fir, old pine tree, and cypress. However, it is not known by what standards such interpretations have been made. In particular, 'Hwe' is interpreted at the discretion of the translator in classic translations, so direct quotations from these lead to further errors. Therefore, items in classic plant names must be reviewed again. Why is 'Hwe' interpreted in various ways as a plant name and according to what standards should it be interpreted? This study was conducted with these questions. Also, the significance of this study is placed in the setting of guidelines for the interpretation of 'Hwe' so that classic plant names can be properly interpreted and information on plants can be accurately secured.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.17 s.17
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• pp.19-32
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• 2005

The exterior of Korean traditional wooden buildings have been painted with Danchung of painting method using glue and pigments. However because of losing traditional techniques and materials through the period of colonization and industrialization, many problems are occurring today. Especially after several years from painting, occurrence of scalings and flakings in painting layer is a serious problem. To improve weathering resistance of painting layer caused by stress from the difference of swelling and shrinkage between painting layer and wood plate, was examined by weathering tests. The stress is due to the hydrophilic property of wood, mechanical properties(tensile property and stress relaxation) of painting layer, and priming methods by various binders such as glue, acrylic emulsion(Primal AC-3444), acrylic resin(Paraloid B-72). Because stress relaxation of acrylic emulsion of which glasf transition temperature is below room temperature$(7^{\circ}C)$ is high, painting layers with acrylic emulsion generate no scalings and flakings and are in the most durable state in all weathering tests. Priming method which starts from low concentration to high concentration, is more effective to improve durability than other priming methods.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.3
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• pp.90-101
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• 2024

The test answer sheets submitted by examinees in the Joseon Dynasty were called Sigwon (test papers with answers, 試卷), and Siji (blank test papers, 試紙) were generally prepared by the examinees themselves. At that time, paper was not produced as a standard product, so there was no uniformity in size or manufacturing method. Mulberry paper in the Joseon Dynasty was basically transparent, so various paper processing methods were applied for examinees to write answers on both sides. In order for ink lines to be written smoothly, Dochim (hitting paper with a wooden bat on the stone, 搗砧) or surface processing was treated. We found a 19th-century Siji (試紙) that was processed in a unique way, which led to this study. An unusual Sigwon (試卷) is one by Lee Mangi (李晩耆) from 1848 owned by the National Folk Museum of Korea. We found that an opaque white substance was thickly applied between the papers of this Siji (試紙). Through component analysis using infrared spectrophotometry, fluorescence X-ray spectroscopy, optical and polarizing microscopy, and electron microscopy, this white substance was proved to be rice starch. From these analyses, it is presumed that this Siji (試紙) was made by soaking rice flour in water to remove a significant amount of protein, and then applying wet starch containing a small amount of protein between sheets of paper. In addition, with a Siji (試紙) reproduction experiment, we found that the paper reproduced by this processing method was thick and high in whiteness and opacity. This is believed to be a production method designed to produce double-sided paper without using multiple sheets of paper, which was difficult to obtain at that time. In this study, the material processed between the sheets of paper was disclosed only from < Lee Mangi (李晩耆)'s Sigwon (試卷)(Minsok 71745)>, but this appears to be one of several processing methods to treat the paper during the Joseon Dynasty. We hope that more similar Sigwons will be discovered in the future and that extensive research on processing methods will be conducted.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2007

Korean children's clothes have unique aesthetic characteristics distinguished from other countries'. Our folk beliefs handed down from ancient times always contained fortune - seeking thoughts and particularly mothers' earnest wishes for the happiness of their children were sublimated into the symbolic beauty of their children's clothes. The present study examined children's clothes in the royal family and among the people for 50 years of the transitional period from the late Joseon Dynasty to modern times, by classifying them into ritual dress for new-born babies, festival dress and everyday dress. Male children's clothes included caps such as Bokgeon(복건), Hogeon(호건) and Gulle(굴레) topcoats such as Durumagi(두루마기), Sagyusam(사규삼) Koija(쾌자) and Jeonbok(전복) and others such as Magoja(마고자), Baeja(배자), Joggi(조끼) and Bajijeogori(바지저고리), Female children's clothes included caps and head ornaments such as Gulle, Jobawi(조바위) and Daenggi(댕기) and others such as Durumagi, Jegori and Chima(치마). What is interesting is that old clothes handed down to the present are mostly boys' and few of them are girls'. This is probably because of the strong preference for boys rather than girls that continued until the end of the 20th century. Ordinary people dressed their new - born babies with simple white clothes until Samchilil (the 21st day) or Baekil (the 100thday) but, for these occasions, the royal family prepared clothes as formal as those for the $1^{st}$ birthday among the public. Rainbow-striped garments were more popular among the public than in the royal family. As rainbow colors were known to Korean people to dispel evil power and bring in fortunes, rainbow - striped garments were essential for the $1^{st}$ birthday and festive days. However, they were seldom used in ordinarytimes, and most boys and girls wore plain jackets and plain topcoats. When children's clothes in noble families were compared with royal family's ones, either handed down to the present or found in old literature, no significant difference was observed in the basic composition of everyday dress. In particular, it was found that Andong Kim's family had dressed their children with very formal dress such as Dopo and Sagyusam. Among children's clothes, the most gorgeous one was that worn on the $1^{st}$ birthday, and those for other occasions or festive days were similar or simpler. Colors, patterns and designs used in decorating children's clothes mostly had the meanings of seeking fortunes for children such as long life, wealth and prosperity.

• Journal of Communication Design
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• v.66
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• pp.90-101
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• 2019

South Korea had a hard time creating its own image of a nation that formed its identity due to 6.25, Japanese-style rule, division of South and North Korea, and military dictatorship. Recently, Korea has been searching and spreading its identity by creating a Korean wave such as various events and K-POPs. However, since there are still no images and cultural products representing Korea's identity, it is necessary to develop design contents related to native culture and professional cultural product design. Design powers such as France and Japan focus on design projects that can add value to their national design policy projects. Traditional Korean contents also need to be specialized and continuous in image design and research. In this study, five lucky-SubokGangnYeon(long life, happiness and peace), a representative of Korean culture, studied with the most interest in the old and the modern, namely, "Living healthy long." Through the development of cultural product design and the use of design content, I would look forward to presenting the diversity and direction in producing Korea's own design products and images that fit the trend of modern 'age of 100.' Based on images based on special exhibitions related to longevity of the National Folk Museum of Korea, the museum discovers key used features and meanings, studies patterns and patterns, and analyzes design cases applied to modern cultural product design. We also want to look at the direction available through design content, which is a symbol of llong life happiness and peace. First, cultural products have limitations that lack the development of design products, lack of public relations and sales outlets, and lack of awareness of traditional culture, which should precede policy support and awareness reform at the national level. Second, we need to streamline prices that meet the needs of the market. Third, cultural product design and contents related to tradition can be settled and disseminated more easily when traditional design is utilized and distributed mainly on practical stationery and household goods. Fourth, it is necessary to develop contents of various Korean images based on research on Korean cultural history and aesthetic consciousness. Research on the Korean culture of designers should be conducted, not just in the form of figurative images. Fifth, traditional manufacturing methods and materials should be respected by modern times, but modern production products should be developed with economy and durability.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.403-410
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• 2012

The brine treatment applied during the fabrication of forged high tin bronze objects is considered effective at the removal of surface oxide layers developed at elevated temperatures. There is not much information, however, available for the understanding of its exact effect and purpose. This work performed laboratory experiments to characterize the effect brine treatments produce on the surface of bronze objects during fabrication. Specimens were first made in the bronze shop of the Yongin folk village under varying conditions of brine treatments, and the results obtained were then used in the following laboratory experiments where the effect of brine treatments were investigated in terms of brine concentrations, alloy compositions and thermo-mechanical treatments. The results show that oxide layers generated at high temperature are easily removed by the brine treatment. It was found that the element, chlorine, played a key role in the removal of such oxide layers as opposed to the other constituent of the brine, sodium, makes no notable contribution. In bronze alloys containing 22% tin, this brine effect is obtained regardless of the application of forging as long as the brine concentration is over 0.5% based on weight. In alloys containing lead, however, no brine effect is observed due to the molten lead that emerges from inside the hot bronze specimen and forms a thin layer on its surface.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.20
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

Three kinds of natural pesticides extracted from plants which are being sold in the Korean markets, were estimated effects on materials of art of museum. Tested samples were 1) silk fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gallut(copperas post mordancy), gardenia, turmeric, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+amur cork tree, indigo+sappanwood) 2) cotton fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gardenia, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+sappanwood) 3) undyed ramie fabric 4) Korean papers : undyed, dyed(sappanwood, indigo, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower) 5) pigments : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white 6) painted plates : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white. Conditions of tests were that after samples were exposed to 10 times of promoted concentration for 9 months in relative humidity $55{\pm}1%$ and temperature $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, they were compared with standards. Items of estimation were color difference(${\Delta}E^*$) and tenacity. After exposure to pesticides, undyed silk cotton ramie fabrics and Korean papers were not nearly changed in their colors, but colors of most of dyed samples were clearly changed by pesticides except for partial samples(acorn- and madder-dyed fabrics etc, gardenia-dyed samples). Especially changes of colors of turmeric-dyed silk fabrics were most distinct. And colors of pigments and painted plates containing lead, copper, arsenic, mercury and vegetable pigments, were clearly changed. Tenacities of yams of undyed silk fabrics were not nearly changed and undyed cotton fabrics were a little reduced as compared with standards. But tenacities of yams of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were clearly reduced or increased as compared with standards. Especially, madder-dyed silk fabrics were increased 10% or more and indigo-dyed silk fabrics were reduced 10% or less in all pesticides. Also madder- and sappanwood(alum post mordancy)-dyed cotton fabrics were increased 10% or more in all pesticides.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.3
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• pp.16-31
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• 2013

This study addresses how the main group of community ritual changed as the regional community changed during the period of Japan's colonial rule of Korea with emphasis on Gwanseongmyo in Jangchung-dong, Seoul. First, almost every regional community was changed because of city planning which was carried out by Japan in Korea for colonial exploitation and for the use of military bases. Mapo-dong and Seobinggo-dong were the appropriate examples. The city planning projects by the Japanese colonial government selected Jangchung-dong as the place of settlement of many Japanese people. The stream, Cheonggyecheon, made a border between the Korean and Japanese settlements and the traditional system of regional community in Jangchung-dong was changed and reorganized considerably. Second, the Japanese government used the rituals of regional community purposefully to combine them with the ceremony in the Japanese shrine. Those who supported Japan performed the regional rituals and tried to follow the policy of 'Rule of Culture' required by the Japanese colonial government. However, most regional rituals continued as they were before Japan's colonial rule of Korea without any change. Under this new trend the ritual of Gwanseongmyo was changed from the ritual for worshipping Guan Yu to that of the regional community. Last, the main groups that led the rituals of regional community were diversified during the period of Japan's colonial rule of Korea. In other words, the rituals of community used to be led by the families that lived in the region for generations before Japan's colonial rule of Korea. However, they were later led by various groups that emerged as a result of the colonial rule, urbanization, commercial development, regional differentiation, and so on. As an example,Yeongsinsa of Gwanseongmyo,which was the main group to lead the ritual of Gwanseongmyo, shows that the regional community rituals were extended to worshipping Guan Yu. The members of the main group to lead the ritual were pro-Japanese senior officials who were formerly military officers. This shows that the main groups leading the regional community rituals were further diversified.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.84-107
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• 2018

Cheommojik is a pile cloth, a type of textile whose surface is covered with short piles. The term chaedam was used during the late Joseon dynasty to refer to pile cloth rugs, while the terms yoongjeon, dantong and yangtanja were used in the early twentieth century. Various documents, newspaper articles and photographs confirm that pile cloth rugs were used by the general public as well as the royal family from the late Joseon dynasty onward, and that there were domestic manufacturers of such rugs at that time. This study investigated six pile cloth rugs that were produced after the late Joseon dynasty, five of which feature Persian knots made of cut pile, the other being made with the loop pile method. The cut pile rugs are rectangular in shape and measure between 72-98cm by 150-156cm; and they are decorated in the middle with patterns of butterfly, deer, and tiger or the ten longevity symbols, and along the edges with patterns composed of 卍 symbols. The ground warp of all six rugs are made from cotton yarn, while the ground weft is made of cotton yarn on three pieces, wool on one piece and cotton and viscose rayon. The ground weft yarn from four pieces are Z-twist yarn made with two or more S-twist cotton yarn. Four to six colors were used for the pile weft, all being natural colors except for red. Two or more S- or Z-twist yarn were twisted together in the opposite twist for the pile weft, with the thickness determining the number of threads used. Six or more weft threads were used to make the start and end points of the rug; and the ground warp ends were arranged by tying every four of them together. For the left and right edges, three or more threads were wrapped together into a round stick-like form, and the second and third inner ground warps from the edges were stitched on to the wrapped edge. For the loop pile, loops were made in the direction of the warp; the ground warp and the ground weft may have been made with cotton, the pile warp with wool yarn. An analysis of the components of three rugs was conducted to determine which types of animal hair were used for the pile weft. Despite some inconclusive results, it was revealed that goat hair and fat-tailed sheep hair were used, raising the possibility that various kinds of animal fur were used in the production of pile cloth rugs. The six rugs examined in this study are estimated to have been made between the late 1800s and the early 1900s. Although the manufacturer of the rugs cannot be confirmed, we concluded that the rugs were produced in Korea after referring to the documentation of the domestic production of pile cloth rugs during the aforementioned period and the form and placements of the patterns on the rugs.