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The Effects of Cinema Costumes on Fashion -Based onEdith Head's Work- (영화예술에 나타난 의상이 유행에 미친영향 - Edith Head의 영화 의상을 중심으로 -)

  • 이정희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.31
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    • pp.145-164
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    • 1997
  • Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

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The mythological imagination of the ocean and the appearance of 'the others' -Focusing upon Witi Ihimaera's 'Whale Rider'- (바다의 신화적 상상력과 '다른 우리'의 출현 -위티 이히마에라, "웨일라이더 Whale Rider"를 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Young-Ho
    • Lingua Humanitatis
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    • v.8
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    • pp.151-173
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    • 2006
  • Even in this current high-tech industrial age, mythological imagination is considered important. Although each mythology scattered all across the world may have an insignificant origin, to understand that particular society fully, one must not mistakenly assume that the mythology itself is a production of a primitive mind. Ultramodern physics and futurology professor Freeman Dyson has also acknowledged this opinion. He insists that in order for human kind to survive into the far future it most keep in touch with its far past. Levi-Strauss also observes that mythology and science aren't a entirely separate domains. The scientific mind is regarded as a source of understanding the intrinsic qualities of mythology. Taking mythology and science as a binomial opposition, and only weighing their prospects, should be put to the past as we should recognize the need for mythology and science's qualitative unification. In this new point of view, regarding mythology as a meaningless irrationality should cease, while finding out why the inevitably related world of mythology needs metaphoric, ideological consideration. By utilizing 'Whale Rider' by Witi Ihimaera(2004) we will discover why our lives require an 'image' that is borrowed from our experience. The author, Witi Ihimaera, is originally from the Maori tribe, who approaches the world with a mythological imagination, which is not easy to understand with scientific thinking nor in modern civilization. When looking into the mythology of the ocean which still lives in modern civilization, while noting that the world is one, the author indicates that reality and unreality, nature and the super-natural, present and the past, science and fantasy, were not divided from the beginning. However, overtime humans have divided the borders. To do this, the author interprets the ancient emotions of the Maori tribe which have been traditionally accumulated in the group identity in a new literary way by introducing the Maori tribe's ancestral god, Paikia, who can converse with the ocean and the whales. This piece, which has been made into a movie and won awards in 5 international film festivals, including the Toronto International Film Festival, regards primitive emotions as a rational concept instead of an instrumental concept. Also these primative emotions are continuing their attempts to communicate with nature. Furthermore, it advises contemporary human beings who seek for eternal life to not exploit the cultural differences that have been formed naturally, and it is vital for human beings to transcend the ethnic boundaries and to think rationally. In the story, we can find "the dissimilar us" that philosopher E. Levinas mentioned in his sayings, which refers to responsible human beings who devote their lives for the sake of other people instead of fulfilling their own needs.

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A Study of Pat Metheny (Pat Metheny 연구)

  • Kim, Min-Geun;Cho, Tae-Seon
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.17 no.11
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    • pp.80-85
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    • 2016
  • Pat Metheny debuted in 1976 and attracted the public beyond his genre in jazz by committing experimental and various music. His 50 albums have been recognized with musicality and artistry by winning 20 Grammy Awards and being awarded a Gold Disc 3 times. Therefore, his music cannot be expressed merely with the single word 'jazz'. In basic harmonics, there are distinct chords between major chord and minor chord. For example, Ionian Scale and Lydian Scale are used in major chord and Dorian Scale, Phrygian Scale, and Aeolian Scale are used in minor chord. It is also common to use m7b5 chord in Locrian Scale. However, after analyzing Pat Metheny's scale, he made Lick using Dorian Scale in major chord or using Lydian Scale in minor chord. In Dominant chord that can use various six scales, he often used Dorian Scale or Lydian Scale surprisingly. In some measures, he made Lick using Ionian Scale and Lydian Scale. In this case, since the whole atmosphere of that measure simultaneously expresses both the bright feeling of major and the lonely feeling of minor, it arouses a very special atmosphere. In addition, he brought 12-measure pattern and made Lick not using blues scale but often using Ionian Scale, Lydian Scale, and Mixo-Lydian Scale.

The Internal Representations of (1973) as seen through Walter Benjamin's Dialectical Images (프랭크 무리스의 콜라주 애니메이션 <프랭크 필름>(1973)에 나타난 내적 표현 : 발터 벤야민의 변증법적 이미지를 중심으로)

  • Kim, Young-Ok;Moon, Jae-Cheol
    • Cartoon and Animation Studies
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    • s.38
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    • pp.53-70
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    • 2015
  • In industrialized societies throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, Over Produced and Mass consumption images were constantly shown to people via Mass-Media as means to provoke one's desire. Frank Mouris, the American independent animator, captured and showed the infinite nesting of industrialized image with his autobiographical story through his work (1973) and made it as an intense visual flow. This innovative art animation has broke the traditional form of narrative animation and won the Annecy Animation Festival Grand Prix and the Academy Awards in 1974. This was also selected for preservation in the United States National Film Registry by the Library of Congress as being culturally, historically, or aesthetically significant in 1996. This study explores and shows that how these a-half million images to express Franks Mouris's autobiographical story in could be analyzed by the concept of Walter Benjamin's 'dialectical images'. Typically, the term 'dialectic' need to be formed by contradiction or opposite concept in the basic principles, but a dialectical image of Benjamin could be formed without any opposite concept while maintaining the uniqueness of each new relationship of the past. Benjamin's dialectical images are no longer stay in the historical past, It always meets with the present when someone realizes the past in the present moment. I suggest three different aspect according to Benjamin's point of view to analyse this animated film such as 'Historical-dialectical imaging of private/collective memory', 'Reconfiguring of present through analysing the relationship between the image flows and its own time/space', and 'Old future over the existing fragment and the presence of fragment. has the great value not only to present the experimental and innovative aesthetics of animated film, but also to show an analysis of contemporary culture and social aspect in mid-20th century. This study is to explore the diversity of animation representation, aesthetics, and also to suggest a new aspect of animation studies.