• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.504-518
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• 2023

The objective of this study was to explore the symbolism associated with phoenix patterns in China and the temporal aesthetic characteristics of these patterns found in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes. The study involved collecting examples of clothing designs featuring phoenix patterns from China Fashion Week and the Vogue website, spanning from spring and summer of 2016 to fall and winter of 2022. After collecting and organizing these examples, representative cases were selected for analysis. The objective was to identify effective techniques for incorporating phoenix patterns within the context of Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes and provided insights for future clothing design and textile pattern design research. Phoenix patterns boasted a lengthy history and were laden with symbolic meaning. Early renditions of phoenix patterns found at Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang were relatively simplistic in design, mainly employing elements like rhythm, coordination, balance and symmetry to convey a sense of nature and gravity. Over time, these patterns evolved under the influence of the prevailing cultural backdrop, employing repeated emphasis to portray notions of abundance and tenacity. Furthermore, regarding the use of phoenix patterns in clothing, there were four prevalent expression techniques: embroidery, beading, printing, and knitting. Traditional techniques like embroidery and beadwork often prioritized aesthetic features like coordination, emphasis, and symmetry, thereby showcasing the opulent characteristics of phoenix patterns. On the other hand, printing and knitting techniques used a single phoenix pattern or a modified version to simplify designs by emphasizing or repeating aesthetic characteristics while adhering to a modern artistic approach.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.59-76
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought about environmental severity and new social, economic, and cultural changes. Conscious fashion, which is oriented to sustainable and valuable consumption, has become a trend to consume products produced using eco-friendly and ethical processes, from the selection of the product materials to the manufacturing process. The purpose of this study is to identify the concepts and characteristics of conscious fashion and zero waste, and to explore design trends of zero wastein the new normal era of conscious fashion through the analysis of various cases. The research method is a literature review on conscious fashion based on relevant professional and academic books and articles, designer collections, and campaigns from 2010 to the present, when conscious fashion as eco-friendliness and sustainable fashion became a trend. The concept and characteristics of conscious fashion were examined them in terms of environmental, ethical, social, and cultural aspects and the concept and characteristics of zero waste through previous studies and case analysis. Through this, the trends of zero-waste design in conscious fashion were categorized into: first, an eco-friendly design orientation that utilizes reuse and reduce methods of clothing and fabric; second, a variable design orientation that practices zero waste designs by using diversity of patterns through deconstruction, disassembly, and various cutting methods. Third, long-term circulation of design through the recycling of resources by second-hand trade, the utilization of stock clothing, resale, and availability of eco-friendly materials through the development of new technologies. As an active practice for the sustainable fashion industry expands, it is expected that continuous research will be conducted as a future core value to realize the possibility of long-term circular zero-waste design through social responsibility and conscious recycling, reuse, and reproduction.

• Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.65-73
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• 1984

To assess the status of industrial injuries, a large scale textile company located around Taegu city was selected. And it was investigated from January 1981 to December 1982. After the department for workers safety was established, frequency rate of injury was 9.70 in 1981 and 4.15 in 1982, incidence rate per 1,000 workers was 27.11 in 1981 and 12.96 in 1982, and then, intensity rate was 0.33 in 1981 and 0.01 in 1982. The average duration of working loss was 36.64 days in 1981 and 3.34 in 1982. The incidence rate per 100 workers was 2.3 in annual average, 2.7 in men and 2.0 in women. The monthly incidence rate per 1,000 workers was highest as 3.6 in June; daily incidence rate, lowest as 1.8 on Sunday; and the highest as 14.7 from 10 to 12 o'clock in a day. The frequency by injured parts of body was highest as 42.3% on finger and 14.4% on the other part of hand, and the lower extremities as 14.4% followed. According to the kind of injuries, the laceration was the highest as 46.1%, the next was contusion as 15.4%, and the third was superficial injuries as 6.7%, According to the cause of injuries, the machinery accidents showed the highest as 47.1% and the accidents due to hand tool followed as 16.3%. By underlying cause of injuries, the environmental factors were 13.5% and the human factors 86.5%. The psychologic factors among human factors were the most common as 60.6%.

• Journal of Preventive Medicine and Public Health
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.81-88
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• 1981

The present study was conducted to investigate the status of industrial injuries through a prospective study for a year from August 1980 to July 1981. The subjects were 15 textile industries which were selected by random sampling in Daegu. The results obtained are as follows: Anual over-all incidence rate of industrial injuries was 3.3 percent and the rate showed 6.7 percent in male and 2 percent in female. The rate showed decreasing tendency with larger scale of industries. By the age group, $15{\sim}19$ age group was the highest as 49.3 percent. Age specific incidence rate of industrial injuries revealed highest as 4.7 precent among the group the group of 30 years old and over. By the years of service, 57.1 percent of the total cases belonged to the the group less than 1 year and the rate revealed increasing tendency with shorter period of service. The highest frequency of industrial injuries was observed at the point of 3 hours after the beginning of the work in a day as 18.1 percent. Frequency of industrial injuries showed highest as 20.3 percent on Monday. Frequency of industrial injuries was highest as 27.7 percent in winter time and showed 14 percent and 11.8 percent in January and August, respectively. By the cause of injuries, machinery accidents showed the highest as 39.2 percent and followed by the accidents due to striking against object as 17.8 percent, fall of ground as 16.3 percent and hand tool as 7.2 percent. Frequency of injured parts of body was highest as 43.9 percent in fingers. The frequency was much higher in upper extremities (66.9%) than in lower extremities (17.6%). By the kind of injuries, laceration wound was highestas 35.7 percent and the next was superficial injury and contusion as 35.1 percent. By the duration of treatment, most of the cases was belonged to the group less than 1 month as 79.1 percent and the duration showed prolonging tendency with larger scale of industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.93-98
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• 2017

The fixing behaviors of raw silk yarns treated with melamine and formaldehyde at a molar ratio of 1:3 for trimethylolmelamine were investigated. Sericin was fixed during the fixing process, but a part of sericin I was removed simultaneously by hot water. The weight losses by fixing and the degumming losses by degumming greatly decreased with increasing concentrations of melamine and formaldehyde. The silk yarns fixed with 0.011 M melamine and 0.033M formaldehyde were significantly degummed due to the insufficient fixation of sericin and the alkaline hydrolysis of sericin by sodium carbonate during the degumming process. On the other hand, the silk yarns fixed with 0.055M melamine and 0.165M formaldehyde were degummed slightly (the degumming losses of 3-8%) due to the strong fixation of sericin, which might result from the many cross-linkages between the sericin I molecules, which were formed by trimethylolmelamine. Those fixed with the fixing solution containing 15% owf softener showed the lowest weight and degumming losses because under the condition of 15% owf softener, the cation of the softener can effectively form ionic bonds with the negatively charged side chain of aspartic acid in sericin. In addition, van der Waals' forces may be also formed between the hydrophobic tail of the softener and the hydrophobic region of sericin, which may help inhibit the removal of sericin I.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.151-167
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to systematize the theory of the Fashion Marketing and merchandi-sing system as well as the strategy for the Mar-keting based on the related variable. Furthermore, this study deals with development of the mark-eting strategy to the relation between consumers and industry. The content conclusion on the research can be outlined as follows : 1. In order to inverstigate how the life-style of consumers affects their sense of fashion, awa-reness of brand, and decision making process of purchase, the life-style of women consumers is classified into 15 types. (1) Acording to the different life-style types, and important difference is found in the consum-ers' sense of clothes, a unique image of outfit and its own favorite image of womanliness. (2) The consumer's awareness of a particular brand has a reasonable relationship with their brand preference and possession of the brands. (3) Their is an important discrimination acco-rding to the life-style types in their brand awar-eness and preference and possesion of brands. (4) The consumers of each life-style type show noticeable difference in the decision making pro-cess of purchase including he motive of purchase, the source of information, the cause of purchase intention, price, the frequency of purchase and the degree of satisfaction of purchased goods. 2. The merchandising system and the market positioning among the fashion industry are compared and analyzed in the following terms ; (1-1) For the purpose of establishing the target market strategy, the industry uses unreasenalbe methods to analyze the life-style of the target customers and the real customers(36%) and the aging phenomenon of brands is remarkable : as much as 37% of brands show over 5 years-old age gap. (1-2) The price setting process depends highly on the cost-plus approach. (1-3) In color planning, too many colors are used in every season(the average number is 22.3) and the investigation of the consumers' favorite color is neglected. (1-4) The manufacturers of successful brands are much likely to employ the textile designer and allow them to develop the various fabrication. (1-5) The regular rate of sales in each season is extremely low(56.04%) : the rate of the succ-essful brands is relatively high at 65%, but that of the unsuccessful as low as 51%. (1-6) 47% of brands reveal the designer-orie-nted fashion merchandising system. The successful brands, on the other hand, show a high rate of merchandiser oriented system. (2) Since the brand positioning is highly cen-tered on each brand image, styles and target age, the new data are presented in this study for the new market development. (3) To set up the target market, the mapping of images between the differentiated market and the consumers is suggersted according to the market positioning of industry and 15 types of the life-styles of consumers.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.528-535
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• 2016

Two types of oleophilic acrylic prepolymers were prepared by the solution copolymerization of either ethyl acrylate (EA) or lauryl acrylate (LA) with hydroxy ethyl acrylate (HEA). For the formation of oil-absorbent materials, a mixed solution of the prepolymer and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) as a cross-linker in toluene was applied to polypropylene knit velvet fabric through the conventional pad-dry-cure procedure. The gel fraction of the crosslinked resin, EA-HEA-HDI, increased with increasing feed ratio of HEA to total acrylate or HDI concentration. The oil absorbancy and retention ratio of the prepared materials were compared according to the add-on ratio of resin to fabric, and were assessed with n-decane, toluene, soybean oil, lubricant and bunker C oil as test oils. The optimal oil absorbancy of the materials were observed at around 6% of the add-on ratio for all these oils except for soybean oil. On the other hand, the oil retention ratio increased as the add-on ratio increased. Futhermore, heavier and more viscous oil generally showed higher oil retention ratios. In addition, the oil absorbancy of the materials treated with LA-HEA-HDI resin was higher than that treated with EA-HEA-HDI resin, which showed that the acrylic resins are more absorptive with increasing length of their side alkyl chain.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.158-175
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to understand and improve the clothing habits and the apparel industry of North Korea in preparation for the reunification of South and North Korea. For this study, literary data, reports, periodicals, interviews and internet data of the two Koreas were reviewed. North Korean clothing habits used to be monotonous and uniform but nowadays people's clothes have become somewhat brighter in color and more diverse in design than before. In particular, liberal and individual dressing habits appeared among the privileged classes. When taking part in national events, women have to wear the traditional Korean costume, Hanbok, while men wear business suits for formal wear. In general, men don't wear Hanbok. Students have to be in uniforms but blue jeans, T-shirts with English logos were popular among them reflecting their sensitivity and openness towards western cultures. The brides usually wear pink Hanboks and the bridegrooms wear black business suits for their wedding. North Koreans also wear Hanbok on national holidays like South Koreans. Clothing is the most important item in the trade of process commission between North and South Korea. Trading items are mid to low end men's clothing for the most part due to less emphasis on fashion in the North. The processing is indirect trade and composed of sample making and contracting, sending out materials and production, carrying in goods and setting accounts. To activate South-North trade, establishment of infrastructure, stabilization of shipping, reducing high costs of distribution, building direct communication system by setting up office in a neutral zone and simplifying procedures in applying for the South and North Korea Economic Cooperation Fund. On the other hand, clothing and textiles education is carried on at art colleges, light industries colleges and commercial colleges in Pyongyang. Clothing institutes which study Hanbok and Western clothes, are installed in each city and province. Graduates who majored in clothing and textiles are posted in institutes or apparel factories. Their job is designing, patternmaking and sewing for their customers. Most of them are women and in good state of economic conditions. The North Korean clothing industry has been the core national industry that has developed based on overseas demand form the mid 1980s. The standard is that of South Korea in the early 1980s. In 1999, trade of North Korean textile products with trade counterparts such as Japan and China was $1.3 million in exports and $1.27 in imports. Of this amount the export takes up 25.4% of the total exports in North Korea. However, fundamentally even in sectors that are irrelevant to politics such as the fashion clothing industry, trust between the South and North should be a prerequisite. Only through this can exchange between North and South and economic cooperation contribute towards the reunification.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.486-495
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• 2001

Degradable poly(butylene succinate) (PBS)/poly(TEX>${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone) (PCL) copolyesters were prepared by using transesterification between poly(butylene succinate) and poly(TEX>${\varepsilon}$-caprolactone). The thermal and mechanical properties of copolyesters were investigated using differential scanning calorimetry and tensile testing. Interchange reaction between PBS and PCL molecules could be identified from proton NMR spectra. The reduced viscosity of the PBS/PCL copolyesters increased with reaction time except for a series of PBS/PCL (50/50 wt%) copolyesters. For all the compositions, the melting point and crystallization temperature of high-$T_m$ component (PBS) decreased as reaction time increased. From the results of tensile testing, it was found that stress and strain at break of the PBS/PCL copolymers containing less than 40 wt% PCL improved as compared to those of pure PBS, but at 50 wt% PCL stress at break of PBS/PCL copolymers was lowered due to decrease of crystallinity. On the other hand, Young's moduli of all the copolyesters decreased with both reaction time and PCL content.