• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.364-370
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• 2008

This research aims to recognize necessity of modern expression of traditional pattern, understand the matter which is expressed when developing design using traditional pattern, and find the solutions. As the solutions, this research presents design of traditional pattern using symmetry concept and works on the possibility of symmetry as the pattern design. So this research carried out in-depth interview to textile designer working at Gyeongsangnam-do, analyzed the substances. The main results are as follows. First, the presented problems of developing common pattern design and designing using traditional pattern show the necessities for adequate harmony among conception of creative idea, traditional pattern and present pattern. As the solution, the efficient design principles are required. Second, the seven traditional figures can present design applying symmetry, also draw the 8 mapping models for the visuality and utilization. Third, the symmetry-applied traditional pattern design makes it possible for the traditional figure to be represented with the creative and modern sense and provides easier way to the design development by complementing the pattern design formation. As the result, symmetry-utilized traditional pattern design improvement shows the expectation that it will increase the design development ability and ease the figure drawing. In addition, the pattern development which can be applied to any figure presents the time efficiency as well as possibility of the high added value textile industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.27-36
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• 2019

This study aimed to analyze the color differences by warp direction of textile mosaics by focusing on two representative textile wallcovering types, woven and string. Mosaics made of string can be expressed as having three-dimensionality based on color differences resulting from the warp direction of the string. String wallcoverings, unlike woven or non-woven wallcoverings, only have vertically oriented warp lamination on the backing paper without weft, and therefore, the reflection and backing color can be expressed differently depending on the angle of the mosaic. In this study, two identical wallcoverings were manufactured using the same materials but using different textile types, woven and string. The wallcoverings underwent die-cutting by each angle and were deployed in cube form. The analysis was based on ISO 5631-1:2015. The color difference between the two wallcoverings, woven and string, was shown as ΔE* 9.29. Based on the standard deviation of the color difference for each mosaic angle, woven ranged from ΔE* 0.09 to 0.94 and string ranged from ΔE* 1.92 to 3.74, showing a larger color difference. Thus, using the color differences of string to create a mosaic wallcovering improved dimensionality.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.196-207
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• 2014

This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.170-180
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• 2020

Body positivity has emerged among young social media users with the purpose of enhancing a positive body image. In the social media environment, body positivity is frequently presented in the forms of female models' images and/or words that represent individual attitudes toward the female body. The media effects on female viewers' body image differs based on the viewers' perceptions of their own body size. This experimental study examined how body positivity and types of expression on social media influence women's mood and appearance satisfaction by subjective body size. We randomly assigned to 415 young and middle-aged females to one of six experimental conditions which contained three images and three vignettes, each reflecting non-body positivity, body positivity, and control. We used a 3 (body positivity: non-body positivity vs body positivity vs. control) × 2 (types of body positivity expression on media: images vs vignettes) × 2 (subjective body size: under/normal weight vs overweight/obese) between-subject design. The results of MANCOVA revealed the significant main effects of subjective body size on women's mood and appearance satisfaction. There was a significant interaction effect of body positivity and subjective body size on appearance satisfaction. The stimuli representing body positivity caused positive psychological effects for women who perceive themselves being in the under/normal weight range.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권4호
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• pp.432-451
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• 2019

Companies and brands that practice sustainability pay attention to New Media due to its ability to build a sustainable relationship between companies and consumers. The need for research on specific roles, characteristics, and social media effects on eco-friendly advertising has had rapid growth in marketing programs for sustainable activities especially shown through social media. Information about sustainable fashion has spread to consumers through social media, and multifarious efforts have been made to attract the attention of youth. Despite the dramatic increase in eco-friendly marketing through social media as a part of sustainability, there is a lack of research on the major influences of emotional factors such as ad color and expression in social media. In this context, it is meaningful to identify relationships between emotional responses, advertising value and consumer behavior of sustainable fashion brands in Instagram and implement a suitable advertising type (color vs expression) for consumers. We used 366 responses for the final analysis. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, structural equation modeling using SPSS 18.0 and AMOS 18.0. The results of this study suggest that emotional responses, advertising value have a significant effect on the flow. This study expands on a previously limited research field by verifying consumer responses to image advertising on Instagram, rather than general sustainable fashion marketing. The study results also provide meaningful implications for a relation formation between customers and fashion brands vis-${\grave{a}}$-vis sustainable social media marketing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.880-897
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to apply the traditional Chinese fretwork on the 'Faux Chenille' textile work method in a way of enhancing the decorative features of patterns and developing the fashion design. As for the method, it works on the historic background and advancement of the fretwork and it refers to the bibliographies pertinent to the traditional Chinese geometric pattern. The result are as follows. First, pure cotton and 100% rayon are mixed to make it feasible to produce the texture for the material to be tender and enhanced, and in the process of washing and drying the Faux Chenille textile. The Faux Chenille textile is an important material that is required to select materials with great absorption capability as the most effective material to re-visualize the lines and patterns by sustaining the diagonal lines. Second, the fretwork is designed to process the basic formation for 90° angle with the sense of unlimited extensive line and changes with straight line. It has been confirmed that, if the angle that controls the Faux Chenille textile and the tailoring interval are well aligned, the expression of traditional geometric pattern would be effective and it may be expressed in contemporary style. Third, through the fashion design application by utilizing the Faux Chenille textile of the fretwork, it is confirmed that the contemporary application of the traditional culture could be expressed uniquely and creatively while it is affirmed that the western technique and Asian culture can be blended in harmony.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.447-458
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• 2009

The advent of various arts and remarkable development of mass media since 1980s accelerate fashion photographs' advancement. The expression of fashion through photographs can represent characteristics of ages, societies, cultures, traits of designers and techniques of photographers. This study focuses on Cindy Sherman's fashion photographs, which represent different kinds of respect to the women's states and identity. Cindy Sherman describes neglected women, sexual characteristics, and tries to overcome the limitation existing in modern society. By analyzing her fashion photographs, women's identities can be examined and the new trial of fashion photographs' expression is able to be considered as well. The results are summarized into two traits. The first is grotesque images, which have strange cuts, dissolved and deformed bodies. Those are expressions to subvert the stereotype of women. The second is amusement, which is expressed with uncanny and ridiculous appearances. These fun images are challenges to depict human instinct and also symbolic plays.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.828-839
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• 2006

These days, by the accelerated developments of science and industries and the menaces of war and terror, humans have come to have instinct to recur and nostalgia to nature and thereby many art works and designs with natural objectives have begun to be produced. Also the design in 21st century requires creative products based on cultural speciality of the countries. As the examples, we may easily find the images of the countries from visual expressions or products when we get in touch with the products of so called advanced countries in design i. e. U.S.A. Japan, Germany, France, Italy, countries of Scandinavian peninsular. This study, in such stream of the times, was to express our culture's own originality on clothing design with butterfly that is one of natural thing as the material but limited the boundary to realistic butterflies in folk drawings of the times of Chosun. As for the technique of expression, used digital textile printing for best expression of the fine lines, realistic shapes and peculiar colors of the butterflies in Chosun folk drawings and used diverse materials as materials for printing for diversity of the designs. Thereby this thesis is purposed to grope the products with superior competitiveness in the world market by presenting the realistic butterflies in Chosun folk drawings as motives with cultural value native to Korea and applying them to clothing designs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.857-866
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• 2009

The objective of this study was to design a fashion storytelling method, which is a strategic instrument for constructing a fashion show with artistry and popularity, based on the principle and structure of storytelling. In order to understand the concept and principle of storytelling composed of story and telling and to introduce storytelling into fashion shows, we associated fashion design with the substance of a story, a show with the form of telling, and a fashion show with storytelling. Based on these associations, we analyzed the relationship between fashion show and storytelling and developed basic elements and structure necessary to design a fashion storytelling method. Through this study, we designed a fashion storytelling method with five steps, which are story planning, story development, fashion show structure design, fashion show production, and fashion show execution. These steps were again classified into contents setting step, structure design step, and expression step. The contents setting step included story planning and development for creating stories, and the structure design step means the design of fashion show structure that adds telling to the stories. Lastly, the expression step included fashion show production and execution that forms a storytelling by combining the stories and the telling.