• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.89-95
• /
• 2007

The purposes of this study were to investigate the names and locations of beauty-related high schools, and to examine the cources and subjects of beauty-related high schools according to types of high schools. Data were obtained from 8 beauty-related high schools, which consisted of 2 schools for each beauty-related high schools types and permitted the investigation of their curriculum. The findings of this study were as follows: First, These were about 30 beauty-related high schools that were mostly industrial high schools, located in Busan and Kyungsang Province, and almost used "Beauty" or "Aesthetics" as the name of department. Second, the rates of common and professional courses of business high schools and industrial high schools were similar to those suggested from the Ministry of Education and Human Resources. But for specialized high schools and integrated high schools, the rate of these courses were not in accord with those of the Ministry of Education and Human Resources. Third, The credit hour of special study in beauty-related high schools largest in hair care, followed by skin care and makeup courses. But nail and foot care were established only 2-3 beauty-related high schools. Fourth, The number of subjects of special study were largest in specialty high school. Industrial high schools offered the least number of subjects of special study. Fifth, as a result of making a comparative analysis of their subjects of special study, eight high schools offered hair care, skin care, public health and makeup courses, which had the same or similar titles. The independence titles were established nail care and foot care. The others titles were established actual training, food and nutrition, digital image processing, accounts theory, coordinatin.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.1
• /
• pp.130-139
• /
• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.83-91
• /
• 2008

This study was designed to figure out the changes in elderly women's foot size and shape by aging, to propose size specification for elderly women's shoes, and to produce regression equations using representative measurements items to estimate other measurements usually hard to get. Subjects were 118 women of 30-59 years and the 227 elderly women over 60 years. Martin's anthropometry was done on the right foot of each subject for 25 items. And 11 indirect measurement items were measured on both foot printing sole outline and picture in profile taken by digital camera. For statistical analysis on the anthropometric measurements by SPSS program, analysis of variance, post-hoc test(SNK-test), crosstabulation, multiple correlation analysis, regression analysis were performed. The results of the study are as follows. Firstly, it was found that the foot figures of elderly women over 60 years were smaller in girth and width than those of below 60 years. In addition, it was revealed that a big toe and a little toe of elderly women showed a tendency concentrating to the central axis of feet. The foot index of elderly was smaller in width and girth. Secondly, foot size distribution table of elderly group showed wider size ranges and covered smaller sizes than the below the age of 60, meaning wide variation in foot size of elderly women. Thirdly, the multiple correlation analysis showed high correlation of foot length/girth to other measurements, suggesting these two items could be used as representative items for elderly women's shoe size specification as other age groups. Regression equations were produced using foot length/girth to estimate other measurements, suggesting such items could be estimated effectively and utilized in on/off-line shoe manufacturing shop as heel to big toe length, heel to little toe length, exterior malleouls width, instep girth, ankle girth, etc. These results imply prudent features of elderly women's foot as diversity of foot shape and wide size specification range should be applied for ergonomic shoe design for them.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.467-476
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop a plausible methodology based on experimental data how to set up darts and split lines on 3D parametric body dressed with tight-fit garment. The results were as following: Through the process of making convex hull, the concave parts were straightened to make a convex hull, especially in the center part of bust, under breast part and scapular part. To figure out the optimum positions of darts and split lines, the inflection points of curve ratio were searched along the horizontal polylines of waist and bust. This procedures produced reliable results with low deviation. Using Rapidform, CATIA and Unigraphics, six patches of bodice patterns were drawn and aligned. Paired t-test results showed the outline and area between 3D surface and 2D were not significantly different, meaning this method could be adaptable when flattening 3D surfaces. The amount of waist dart measured on the pattern showed that the highest portion was allocated on 2nd dart(back), followed by 1st dart(back), 1st dart(front), 2nd dart(front)/side dart, and center back dart. A series of findings suggested that curve ration inflection point could be used as a guide to set up darts and split line on 3D parametric model with low deviation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.5
• /
• pp.652-659
• /
• 2008

This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.23 no.2
• /
• pp.261-272
• /
• 2021

The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the thermal insulation of air-filled winter jackets according to the amount of air-filler using a thermal manikin. The insulation of these jackets' was compared to a down padded jacket with an identical design and size. The amounts of air-filler were 100% (26,219 cm³), 70% (18,645 cm³), 50% (13,110 cm³), and 0% (0 cm³). The results showed that a clothing insulation (Icl) of 0%, 50%, 70%, and 100% air, and 100% down jackets was 0.208, 0.243, 0.207, 0.176, and 0.315 clo, respectively. In addition, the down jacket with waisttaped had a clothing insulation of 0.369 clo. However, the highest value of clothing insulation per clothing weight was the 50% air-filled jacket in all conditions. In terms of regional power consumption of the thermal manikin, the down jacket consumed less power for the shoulder and chest than the air-filled jackets. In conclusion, in order to maximize the thermal insulation of air-filled jackets, an optimal amount of air-filler, that is, an amount which does not compromise (break) the layer of inner air between the surface of manikin and the lining of the jacket, should be explored. Further studies on lining materials, end-closed design, and changes in thermal insulation under the conditions of strong wind or heavy snow are recommended.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.642-649
• /
• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.16-21
• /
• 2008

In this study the effects of swelling and fixing agent for the cotton side of polyester/cotton blended fabrics and the thermosol temperature on the dyeing properties and fastness. were investigated, when the polyester/cotton blended fabrics were dyed with a disperse dye which was able to dye both side of fiber by one bath one step thermosol process. The obtained results are as follows; The dye adsorption decreased with the increase of cotton blend ratio in polyester/cotton blended fabrics, when the ratio of swelling and fixing agent for cotton side was constant. As the thermosol temperature increased up to $210^{\circ}C$, the dye adsorption were increased, but that effect was less significant when the cotton blend ratio was higher.

• Asia Marketing Journal
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.57-81
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this paper is to seek ways to improve the competitiveness of Korea's fashion industry by utilizing the source of competitiveness of Japan's fashion industry, which represents the world's leading countries in terms of fashion, so that Korea can better enter the global fashion market. The study shall first compare the competitiveness of the Japanese and Korean fashion industries by utilizing the generalized double diamond model; second, provide an understanding of what the Japanese fashion industry can offer to Korean fashion industry and companies - that is, understand what the Japanese fashion industry's competitive edge is; and third, study the kind of global competitiveness that Korea's fashion industry must achieve. To adopt a generalized double diamond model to compare the competitiveness of the Korean and Japanese fashion industries, we selected 31 sub-variables to act as determinants of the model. That is, we extracted 31sub-variables by doing research of literature to analyze national competitiveness of the fashion industries. To measure these 31 sub-variables, secondary data was gathered. We collected data related to each sub-variable from various sources of Korea and Japan. And to calculate the competitiveness index, we took three steps with reference to previous studies. We found that status of the fashion industry of the two countries as it stands. That is, Japan is an advanced country of which fashion industry is domestic market-oriented while Korea is a small open economy that mainly focuses on the foreign market. Out of 31 proxy variables, Korea's fashion industry shows higher measurements relating to production and export than Japan, but Japan's fashion industry reports higher measurements than Korea in the fields of R&D, design and brand power, the rate of value added, the efficiency of companies and globalization. In order for Korea's fashion industry to achieve competitiveness in the global market, it should pursue the following development direction. First, it is very difficult for Korea to follow the footsteps of the U.S. and Japanese fashion industries that are able to take advantage of economies of scale, because Korea is smaller than those countries. Therefore, in the case of small economies such as Singapore, strengthening of international activities will practically improve domestic determinants that Korea should improve its domestic diamond by enhancing the current competitiveness of its international diamond. In other words, Korea needs to further endeavor to develop and expand global resources and markets as well as improve its competitiveness in terms of R&D, design and brand power, the rate of value-added, and the efficiency of companies. As the Korean fashion industry shows relatively advanced level of information technology and the fashion education system, it has considerable potential to grow. Korea is expected to have a huge growth potential since it has relatively higher level of information technology, fashion education system and activities than those of Japan in both the domestic diamond and international diamond. In particular, a better environment is laid out before Korea to gain competitiveness in the fashion industry due to the recently growing influence of the Korean Wave that Korea is expected to grow as a leader in the Asian market as well as in the global market.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.26 no.1
• /
• pp.22-31
• /
• 2014

This study investigated the physical properties of warm up yarns and their knitted fabrics including the dye affinity and color fastness to washing of these knitted fabrics according to the various dyeing times and temperatures on dyeing process. The results were summarized as follows. The tenacity of Nylon/PP warm-up yarn was 4g/d and breaking strain was 4.5%. The wet and dry thermal shrinkages were higher than those of PET warm-up yarn. The maximum heat flow rate(Qmax) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was lower than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric and heat keeping rate(a) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric was higher as 47% than that of PET warm-up knitted fabric. It was shown that the shape retention and wearing comfort of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric were better than those of PET warm-up knitted fabric. The dye-affinity(K/S) of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the dyeing condition of 40minute or 50minute dyeing time with $80^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature, but PET warm-up knitted fabric showed maximum value at the 30minute or 40minute with $110^{\circ}C$ dyeing temperature. Finally, the color fastness to washing of Nylon/PP warm-up knitted fabric showed good value as between 4 and 5 grade.