• 보존과학회지
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• 제36권6호
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• pp.483-493
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• 2020

X-선을 이용한 비파괴 조사와, 현미경 조사를 통해 고려 나전국화넝쿨무늬합(고려나전합)의 구조와 제작기법을 확인하고, 보존상태를 파악하였다. 조사결과, 고려 나전국화넝쿨무늬합은 침엽수재를 바탕재료로 사용하였으며, 목재 위에는 직물을 바른 뒤에 옻칠을 한 것으로 확인되었다. 합의 구조는 판재를 반화형으로 가공한 뒤에 측면에 목재를 덧붙여서 제작하였고, 측벽으로 사용한 부재는 일정한 간격으로 칼집을 내어서 곡선형으로 가공하기 용이하게 만든 것으로 확인되었다. 나전의 가공은 주름질을 사용하였으며, 대모장식에는 복채기법이 사용되었다. 금속선은 단선과 착선이 사용되었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.361-373
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to contribute to the role of lines in creative design development by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion using geometric formativeness of symmography. A literature study was conducted of works since 2009 to examine the general consideration of lines together with analysis of the concept and characteristics of symmography in the formative arts field, and to analyze the expression types and aesthetic characteristics of modern fashion design using the formativeness of symmography. The infinite sense of formativeness and original expression of symmography are used in formative arts such as space design, installation art, and industrial design. Expression types of modern fashion design using geometric formativeness of symmography can be classified into the following three types: two-dimensional graphic pattern, relief surface, and three-dimensional spatial. First, the two-dimensional graphic pattern type forms an optical pattern, providing individuality and visual interest to the textile design. Second, the relief surface type expresses the plane in various ways, so that the thickness changes according to how lines overlap. Third, the three-dimensional spatial type expands the boundaries of clothing and creates a fantastic spatial beauty. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of fashion design using symmography can be classified into repetitive rhythmicity, geometric self-similarity, and optical spatiality. Symmography enables a myriad of geometric patterns to be developed depending on material, color, and the designer's imagination, and helps inspire a variety of designs in fashion that sculpt a three-dimensional human body.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.117-140
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• 2021

At the beginning of the Roman imperial period, moralizing authors criticized a material from the East that quickly gained popularity among the elites: silk. During Late Antiquity, the trade, production, and use of purple-dyed silks increasingly became the privilege of the emperors. While literature, court poetry, and laws give insights into the discourses surrounding silk, they are rather unspecific concerning silk qualities. This contribution analyzes the scattered descriptions of silks in Greek and Latin texts in a diachronic perspective, with a focus on the 1^st cent. BCE to the 4th cent. CE, paying particular attention to the terminology, products, origins, and qualities of silk. The aim is to build a framework for comparisons with archaeological silk finds and other textile terminologies along the Silk Roads. Here, the silk finds from the oasis city of Palmyra/Tadmor in modern-day Syria, dating from the 1st cent. BCE to the 2nd cent. CE, will be used as a case study for the early imperial period. Taking these silk finds as a comparison, it will be shown that Greek and Latin terminology does not match the variety of silks known in the Mediterranean. Rather, linguistic differentiations focus on the forms in which silk reached the Mediterranean, as skeins, yarns, and fabrics, as well as on the different kinds of silks that were produced in the West, namely pure silk and half-silken fabrics, checkered "scutlata" damasks, purple-dyed, and gold-embellished silks. In contrast, silks from the East were subsumed under the term for "silks from the silk people" or simply "silks". Moreover, ancient authors do not use the terms in the same way. These findings show the limitations of Western silk terminology and the importance of combining archaeological and written sources.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Advances in nano research
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.295-304
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• 2023

In this paper, a powerful photocatalyst based on carbon nanocomposite is developed in order to obtain a new material applicable in water treatment and especially for the discoloration of effluents used in the textile industry. For that, TiO₂-graphene nanocomposites have been successfully synthesized by a mixture of Functionalized Graphene Sheet (FGS) and tetrachlorotitanium complexes to form FGS-TiO₂ nanocomposite. In the presence of an anionic surfactant, we used a new chemical process to functionalize graphene sheets in order to make them an excellent medium for blocking and preventing the aggregation of TiO₂ nanoparticles. The components of these nanocomposites are characterized by means of X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR), Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) and Transmission Electron Microscopy (TEM), which confirms the successful formation of the FGS-TiO₂ nanocomposite. It was found that the TiO₂ nanoparticles were dispersed uniformly on the graphene plane which possesses better charge separation capability than pure TiO₂. The FGS-TiO₂ nanocomposites exhibited higher photocatalytic activity compared to pure TiO₂ for the removal of three dyes: such as Methylene Blue (MB), Bromophenol Blue (BB) and Alizarin Red-S (AR) in water. The removal process was fast and more efficient with FGS-TiO₂ nanocomposite in daylight (in the absence of UV irradiation) compared to pure TiO₂ nanoparticles without and under UV in all pH range.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권4호
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• pp.239-245
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• 2023

Cellulose is an abundant biodegradable material in nature with excellent properties, but due to its poor processability, it has been widely studied for processing through modification. Cellulose acetate propionate (CAP) is a cellulose derivative in which the hydroxyl group of cellulose is replaced by acetyl and propionyl groups. CAP has several advantages, such as excellent solubility, structural stability, light and weather resistance, and good transparency. Porous nanofibers with excellent specific surface area, which can be applied in various fields, can be easily formed by the phase separation method using highly volatile solvents. High speed centrifugal spinning is a nano/micro fiber preparation method with advantages such as fast spinning and easy alignment control. In this study, a CAP/polybutylene succinate (PBS) spinning solution with chloroform as solvent was prepared to prepare porous microfibers and the fiber morphology was examined as a function of the disk rotation speed in an high speed centrifugal spinning device.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.169-178
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• 2023

The extended use of polyester nowadays has increased the amount of waste polyester (PET) released into the environment. Although these materials don't directly harm living things or the ecosystem, their inability to biodegrade remains one of the major global threats, driving up the amount of solid waste made up of PET. Environmental concerns have approved an increasing interest in recycled PET however the production of recycled PET with sufficient mechanical properties is still a challenge. Recycled Polyester (rPET) yarns are inexpensive and have the potential to acquire better mechanical characteristics through physical treatments, particularly by using technically simple method like uniaxial drawing. This study inspected the drawn behavior of virgin PET yarns and rPET yarns under various drawing parameters by first analyzing the initial material characteristics of both yarn. The impact of stretching on mechanical and morphological properties was also investigated. The results showed that virgin PET has better properties than rPET yarn; however, mechanical properties resembling virgin PET are achieved after optimizing the draw ratio.

• 청정기술
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.16-28
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• 2016

섬유산업은 염색폐수의 농도가 높고 방출량이 많아 고도의 공해산업으로 알려져 있다. 염색폐수에는 색도물질 뿐만 아니라 다량의 유기화합물과 불용성 물질이 섞여 있다. 합성염료 중 아조(azo) 염료는 특히 오염물질의 배출이 많은 것으로 알려져 있다. 전기화학적 폐수처리방법은 전극의 산화·환원반응에 의해 색도와 유기물 등을 처리하는 방법으로 다른 폐수처리방법들에 비해 반응기가 작고 경제적이고 간단하며 오염물제거속도가 빠르다. 본 연구에서는 diazo 화합물인 CI Direct Blue 15 염색 폐수의 전기화학적 분해특성을 연구하였다. 실험은 전극재질과 조업조건을 달리하여 그에 따른 분해효율을 알아보고자 하였으며, 탈색 효율을 향상시킬 수 있는 최적전극 재질과 조업조건을 알아보고자 하였다. 조업조건으로는 전해질 농도, 전류밀도, 반응 온도, 초기 pH의 영향을 검토하였다. 음극은 stainless steel 전극을 사용하였고, 양극은 graphite와 RuO₂/Ti, PtO₂/Ti, IrO₂/Ti를 사용하여 조업조건에 따른 각 전극의 염색폐수 분해성능 실험을 수행하였다. 그 결과 전해질의 농도와 전류밀도 증가에 따라 전기분해 효율은 증가하였다. 양극 재질에 따른 전기분해 효율은 산성 전해질 조건에서 RuO₂/Ti > PtO₂/Ti > IrO₂/Ti > graphite 순이었고 중성과 염기성에서는 RuO₂/Ti > IrO₂/Ti > PtO₂/Ti > graphite의 순으로 나타났다. 따라서 염색 폐수의 전기분해 처리에는 RuO₂/Ti와 IrO₂/Ti가 가장 효율적인 양극재질이었다.

• 복식
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• 제6권
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• pp.7-26
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• 1982

Investigation for industrial revolution has been recognized as an important issue of historical science, since industrial revolution itself was a historical moment in modern economic society and in the forming of modern capitalistic culture. If clothing culture had been developed in close relation to social culture. industrial revolution which gave a base for modern capitalistic culture, would be a birth of modern clothing as well as a moment for modernization of western clothing. As it takes for granted that industrial revolution, historical phenomenon is a developmental base of modern clothing culture. This study tried to enlighten the origin of modern clothing culture phenomenon with investigation of industrial revolution as a historical moment in modern clothing culture through documental study. Historian's point of view and method of studying are important when we investigate the clothing phenomenon. Although culture phenomenon of industrial revolution has been evaluated usually through socialogical aspect, studying for clothing culture phenomenon must be carried out on aethetical as well as well as sociological aspect, on account of dualism of clothing, as it is social and artistic nature. In 19th century, there were technical improvement, changing patterns of production, changing social relation and beginning of mass culture. At the same time clothing culture phenomenon was changed in relation to modern capitalistic society. The findings of the study could be summarized as follows. 1. Technical improvement in textile industry and fitting process brought about mechanization of clothing industry. 2. Appearance of popular clothing culture made it easy to spread to various classes of society. 3. Development of transportation system and communication channel made it internationalization of western clothing. 4. Recognition of importance in functional style of clothing. 5. The pursuit of modern aesthetics made rapid changing mode of clothing. Above distinctive features of modern clothing culture were derived from by-product of machinary culture, mass culture, internationalism, rapidly changing mode of various culture during industrial revolution. Industrial revolution was a change of the material world as well as in industry owing to machine advent, then the culture part that displayed directly these changes was the plastic arts of living that mould the material. The problem of clothing construction caused by industrial revolution was solved by pursuing the functional aesthetics. Clothing phenomenon as a process of value transfer participates mass culture in closs relation to general change of various culture caused by industrial revolution. Therefore western clothing gained the qualities of modern culture, condensed as function, and popularity in the process of modernization.