• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.42-47
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• 2004

The main objective of this work is to develop melt-blown nonwoven fabric composite materials have electromagnetic shielding characteristics using thin copper film. Melt-blown nonwoven fabric is the matrix phase and thin copper films are the reinforcement of the composite materials. Thin copper films are incorporated as conductive fillers to provide the electromagnetic shielding property of the melt-blown nonwoven fabric. The width and interval of thin copper films in the nonwoven fabric are varied by changing 1, 3, 5 mm for thin copper film's width and 1, 3, 5 mm for thin copper film's interval. The shielding effectiveness(SE) of various melt-blown nonwoven fabrics is measured in the frequency range of 50 MHz to 1.8 GHz. The variations of SE of melt-blown nonwoven fabric with width and interval of thin copper films are described. Suitability of melt-blown nonwoven fabric for electromagnetic shielding applications is discussed. The results indicate that the melt-blown nonwoven fabric composite material using thin copper film can be used for the purpose of electromagnetic shielding.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.253-259
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• 2012

In this work, the natural indigo production process from Polygonum tinctorium was balanced based on the traditional Niram method in Korea. A standard procedure was determined considering the conditions of indican extraction from plant material, the amount of alkali for precipitation, storage of extract, etc. The effect of experimental conditions on the yield of crude dye was investigated. The contents of indigo and indirubin of the crude dyes were analyzed by HPLC. Increase of the amount of crude dye was observed within 1-2.5 days of extraction time. Longer extraction beyond 2.5 days resulted in a slight decrease in the amount of crude dye. There was no consistency in terms of indigo content depending on extraction pH. We found that the storage of extract or harvested plants affected adversely to dye yield and dye quality. Based on the lab scale extraction, large scale extraction was performed for 2-2.5 days in water and 2.0-2.5 g/L of $Ca(OH)_2$ was applied for precipitation of indigo dye. We obtained natural indigo dye containing about 15% of pure indigo in scale-up production using whole plant except root.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.313-320
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• 2012

For the preparation of hardened films which can be applied as a binder for flame-resistant materials such as silica, linseed oil was subjected to a low temperature plasma treatment with argon, or oxygen gas. The film was produced much faster than so-called drying of oil in air. The SEM analysis for silica particles embedded in the hardened film after plasma treatment showed that the silica particles were immobilized on substrate and were evenly dispersed. The FT-IR spectral analysis for the plasma-treated linseed oil films demonstrated that the radicals which were formed during the plasma treatments caused the linseed oil to be cross-linked, and the plasmas attacked carbon chains of the oil randomly without focusing on specific vulnerable bonds such carbon double and carbonyl bonds intensively unless exposure times of the plasmas were prolonged too much, while the cross-linking of the air-dried film was considered to occur at the well-known typical sites, i.e., carbon-carbon double bond and ${\alpha}$-methylene carbon. Burning times, as a measure of flame/fire resistance, of silica-filled cellulose substrates, increased with increasing contents of silica.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.260-269
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• 2012

The aim of this study was to develop higher-value added dyeing materials with the fermentation-dyeing -mordanting system using only the natural ingredients by integrating traditional fermentation techniques with traditional dyeing technique. Nuruk, which is used mainly to ferment traditional foods, was used as a fermenting agent to ferment 5 different types of materials. Acidic burnt alum and alkaline calcium hydroxide were used as natural mordants. The dyeability checked after fermentation showed that both cotton and silk mordanted with Gardenia jasminoides did not show notable changes, and 10 days of fermentation was found to be appropriate. Sophora japonica L. performed better on cotton materials mordanted with slaked lime, and alkaline mordants were found to be more effective than acidic ones. With Rheum coreanum, a fermentation period of more than 24 days ($5^{th}$ fermentation) worked best on cotton material, showing a 5 fold increase in the K/S value after the $5^{th}$ slaked lime fermentation than with no fermentation. Rhus javanica L. was found to increase the color fastness to gentle washing and the fastness to light was found to possess 4 means that natural dyed fabric have the highest level of durability, the grade 1 the lowest level of fastness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.62-68
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• 2017

Coffee sludge and onion shells are known typically as waste resources as well as simultaneously being the raw material for dye having a golden brown color. This research studies the dyeability, functionality, and colors of woolen fabric after being dyed by different dyeing method using coffee sludge and onion shells extract. The woolen fabric was refined and pre-mordanted with tannin. The dyeing process conducted was single-dye, using coffee sludge and onion shells extract, sequential multi-dye, consecutively dyeing with coffee sludge and onion shells, and mixed-dye, blending coffee sludge extract and onion shells extract to dye. The dyeing was measured on the surface color, color fastness, and UV-protection ability. As a result, the expression of various hues of tan using coffee sludge and onion shells extract were shown to be possible. Additionally, single-dye, sequential multi-dye, mixed-dye had generally superiority in color fastness to light, all rating 3 and color fastness to washing, rating 3 or 4, showing relatively stable color fastness to washing. The UV protection ability was shown to be better, especially appearing satisfactory in the UV-B protection, all measured to be over 90%.

• Safety and Health at Work
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.378-385
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• 2017

Background: The present rapid shift of industrialization from developed to developing countries requires developing countries to understand issues related to work organization, management, and working conditions. There are many factors slackening production, of which working conditions is part. A complete inquiry into the workers' working conditions can enable managements to reduce risks in the workplaces and improve productivity. Understanding and awareness of the benefits of workplace research and a probe into the working conditions in the Ugandan apparel assembly plants are urgently required. Methods: A total of 103 (70 women and 33 men) workers from five different plants were interviewed. Together with the top management of various plants, questionnaires about the workers' opinions of their physical working conditions were prepared. Data was collected using two methods: (1) questionnaire; and (2) observation of the workers during their work. Results: The results indicated that poor plant working conditions were mainly contributed by the workers' social factors and the management policies. Conclusion: The government, together with the management, should work to improve the working conditions in the apparel assembly plants, as it greatly affects both.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.77-86
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• 2017

This study aims to explore the unethical issues in leather processing and to develop designs of leather products based on the concept of reincarnation by ecosystem circulation. The method used in this research include the review of previous literature and the design process for development fashion accessories using waste leather. The design process comprises collecting waste leather, classifying waste leather by type, color, and size, and developing leather products according to line carnation method. For this research, the material was limited to waste cowhide leather collected from leather workshops and leather product factories. The leather pieces were divided into typical and atypical types and developed leather accessories based on the leather piece's color and size. A twill brooch, four-string bracelet, a brooch using the four-stringed leather strap and mini handbag designs were developed using regular type waste leather. An armband of abstract patterns and a cellphone case with graffiti pattern using irregular type over-splitting waste leather. The environmental issues in design are observed as part of understanding the significance of this study. Development of waste leather accessory can expand the usability of the waste leather as well as increase the product value by creating limited-line editions. By understanding the role and benefits of sustainable upcycling, this research suggests an efficient way to use waste materials in fashion to coexist with the natural environment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.122-130
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to develop the appropriate brassiere pattern for women. Total of 6 brands with same design and 75A, 80A size brassieres(total 12 brassieres) were compared and analyzed for pattern, cup size and patterns. SPSS 10.1 statistic process was used for data analysis. The outcom of this study is summarized as follows. Total length of brassiere by grade were performed smaller than the standard difference 5cm. For 1/2 front cover length, There were no significant differences between 75 and 80. The reason for lower line of wing is shorter than upper line of wing is because side support is cut side ways considering lower line of wing is sewn more toward front than upper line of wing. Even it is same A cup size most cup related sizes become larger according to underbust comparing with cup capacity, they range from 146.67cc to 172.83cc for same A cups. Among same A cups with difference underbust there was average of 26.16cc differences. For relations of material, sewing technology and expansion rate, all 6 brands had zigzag type sewing for upper line tape. For every 0.3cm height, there were $17{\sim}21$ stitches. When urethane mixture is similar expansion rate is higher while number of 1 inch zigzag are high. For elasticity, zigzag stitch expand side ways for more expansion.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.8-13
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• 1990

The fading of dyed material by light has long been subject of investigation, yet surprisingly little is known of the fundamental photochemical reactions, because of mainly the complex nature of dye-fibre system. The effect of the chemical structure of dye on lightfastness has been mostly studied when there is substituents on the place satisfied Hammett rule. Therefore, in this investigation the effectiveness of chemical structures of Congo Red and Benzopurpurine 4B unsatisfied Hammett rule on dyeing property and lightfastness of cotton was studied. The results obtained from this study were as follows; 1. Highly polar solvents showed hypsochromic shift. 2. Adsorption isotherm curves of the two dyes were Freundlich type. And Congo Red showed good dyeing property in comparision with Benzopurpurine 4B. 3. The type of the FR curve of the two dyes was first-ordr curve. And the CF curves of the two dyes showed normal fading state during irradiation. 4. During irradiation, the Hue was changed on the part of yellowish. The Value was increasing and the Chroma was decreasing. 5. Benzopurpurine 4B showed good lightfastness in comparision with Congo Red.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.62-62
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• 2011

현재 다운방한 용도에 사용되는 직물 트랜드는 경량화 및 박지화 추세에 있으며, 국내외 유명 브랜드에서 사용되는 스포츠웨어 직물소재의 대부분이 이러한 제품으로 판매가 이루어지고 있다. 현재, 국내외 다운방한용에 사용되는 원단은 겉감이외에 다운 세기방지용 안감직물을 사용하여 다운이 빠져나오지 않도록 하고 있음. 그러나, 최근 겉감으로 사용하여 다운이 세지 않고 매우 가벼우면서 Packable 원단개발이 요구되고 있을 뿐만 아니라, 다운방한직물에 요구되는 성능에 만족하거나 성능이 향상된 고기능 원단개발이 요구되고 있다. 이러한 다운방한용 직물은 다운의 내구성 및 지속성 측면에서 매우 많은 기능이 요구되고 있으며 현재 국내에서 사용하고 있는 다운방한용 직물은 다운커버직물을 사용하거나 코팅에 의해 다운세기 방지기능을 강제로 발현시키고 있다. 그러나 그 직물은 경량화 되어가고 있기 때문에 다운커버 직물을 사용하지 않으면서부터 다운이 세는 문제점, 그리고 공기투과 및 투습이 제대로 되지 못하는 기능성의 문제점, 경량화와 더불어 인열강력이 약하여 잘 찢어지는 문제점, 인열강력의 물리적 특성을 높이고자 코팅을 하게되면 기능성 및 감성이 더욱 나빠지는 문제점이 나타나게 되어 다운 방한용 직물은 큰 문제점이 되고 있다. 이에 겉감만으로도 다운방한용도에 적합한 고감성 및 기능성을 가진 경량직물 개발을 위해 고밀도 제직 및 설계 기술, 최종 염색가공 및 후가공 공정까지의 공정내(內) 간(間)연계기술을 연구하였다.