• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.32-40
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• 1999

Chitosan fiber was prepared by wet spinning with various draw ratio. Chitosan fiber was coated with f-carboxymethyl keratein(SCMK) by extruding chitosan solution into 1 M NaOH solution containing 1% SCMK. Among three chitosan used in this study(chitosans of 5 cps, 50 cps, 100 cps), 50 cps chitosan gave the best tenacity and optimum concentration was 5%. SCMK coating increased the tenacity of chitosan fiber. Regardless of SCMK coating, tenacity and elongation of both chitosan fibers were increased with the increase of draw ratio. Chitosan fiber showed antimicrobial activity against Staphyloccus aureus showing 66∼72% of bacteria reduction rates. On the other hand, chitosan fiber coated with SCMK didn't show any antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.55 no.2
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• pp.44-53
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• 2019

Sericin has been removed in textile industry to improve the luster and hand of silk textile. Therefore, the sericin was considered as useless material. However, recently sericin has attracted researcher's attention since unique properties of sericin including high water retention, UV protection, and wound healing effect were reported. In spite of the useful properties of sericin as biomedical and cosmetic materials, its poor mechanical properties have restricted its industrial use in biomedical and cosmetic fields. To improve the mechanical properties, various sericins were prepared by different conditions, and the effects of the preparation condition on the structure and properties of sericin were examined. In this review paper, research trend in the structure and properties of sericin prepared with different conditions were intensively introduced.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13
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• pp.177-200
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to show the textile designers how to be creative and how to accept other ideas which are not necessarily of their own, and to show what exactly creating anything means. During the 1950's and'60s. America and Europe reached their peak in developing their consumption culture. After World War II, America achieved an astonished feat in developing its thechnology and industry to cause the economy to a rapid ascendence. The U.S. government adopted the Keynsian theory in its economic policy. The Keynsian theory advocates the consumer spending. And during this time period the American public developed consumption habit. Mass production and mass media went in hand to induce the public to buy. The public became an important target for the advertising stratages of the industry. In order for the industry to advertise the mass produced products, it had to utilize the mass media such as television, newspaper, and magazine. And mass media came into play an important role not to advertise the products, but to imform and educate the public about the products. This corporate stratege is further enhanced by the desire of the American public to climb up the ladder by way of material possession. Pop Art was born not only in reflecting the ideology of the consumption culture, but acted as a catalyst for more spending. The subjects of Pop Art are cars, foods, comics, Hollywood actors and movie scenes, the famous singers or persons. Andy Warhol specifically used the chosen image repeatedly to emphasize the redundacy of the image. The common factors which exist between Andy Warhol's Pop Art and textile design is the repetition in form, and the way of transferring an image to a canvas - Warhol used the frotttage technique to transfer an image to a canvas and textile design is transferred to a paper by way of transferring technique. Also the way Warhol thought of his paintings as a decorative elements and made a couple of his paintings into wallpapers or exhibits his painstings wall to wall demonstrates his close alliance with the textile design, let alone his comercial design background. In this study, I examined the inter-relationship between textile design and Pop Art. To carry out this study, I examined the comsumption culture: and the biomorphic relationship of culture and art: and Pop art and its transience stage. The major finding of this study is there exists a common denomenator between textile design and Pop Art, especially of Andy Warhol's.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.467-474
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• 2010

Recently, Study of functional clothing for Vital sensing is focused on reducing artifact by human motions, in order to enhance the electrocardiogram(ECG) sensing accuracy. In this study, considering the factors for each element found from the analysis, a 3-lead electrode inside textile embroidered with silver yarn was developed, and draft designs off our types of vital-signal sensing garments, which are 'chest-belt typed' garment, 'cross-typed' garment 'x-typed' garment and 'curved x-typed' garment, were prepared. The draft designs were implemented on a sleeveless male shirt made of an elastic material so that the garment and the electrodes can remain closely attached along the contour of the human body, and the acquired data was sent to the main computer over a wireless network. In order to evaluate the effects caused by body movements and the ECG-sensing capability for each type in static and dynamic states, displacements were measured from one and two dimensional perspectives. ECG measurement evaluation was also performed for Signal-to-noise ratio(SNR) analysis. Applying the experimental results, the draft garment designs were modified and complemented to produce two types of modular approaches 'continuous-attached' and 'insertion-detached' for the ECG-sensing smart clothing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.250-260
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• 2022

In this research, a high-elasticity acrylic emulsion binder with core-shell polymerization and self-crosslinking system is mixed with a flame-retardant water-dispersed polyurethane (PUD) binder. In addition, finite element analysis was conducted through virtual engineering software ANSYS by applying three representative nonlinear material models. The most suitable nonlinear material model was selected after the relative comparison between the actual experimental values and the predicted values of the properties derived from simulations. The selected nonlinear material model is intended to be used as a nonlinear material model for computational simulation analysis that simulates the experimental environment of the vibration test (ASTM E1399) and the actual fire safety test (ASTM E1966). When the mass fraction of thermally expandable graphite was 0.7%, the thermal and physical properties were the best. Among the nonlinear material models, the simulation result of the Ogden model showed the closest value to the actual result.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1010-1020
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• 1997

For this study, we did needlework of the sample considering practical aspects of production and consumption of silk, high-quality material for women's clothes, and then analyzed the state of the seam puckering after press and dry cleaning, estimated the Seam Puckering based on the mechanical properties of silk related to machine sewing, and examined the effects which Mechanical Properties have on Seam Puckering closely. Through this, we reach the following conclusion. 1. There are three types of seam puckering for each stage, which are caused bathe smoothness of the surface by press, and the difference between the shrinkage rates of fabric and sewing thread by Dry Cleaning. 2. In analyzing seam puckering classified by each step, seam puckering after sewing the fabric is related to WT negatively, while to RT and W positively. Seam puckering after sewing and pressing the fabric is related to WT, RC, MMD negatively and seam puckering after sewing, pressing anddry cleaning the fabric isrelated to WT negatively, too. 3. Concerning the mechanical properties of the sample with a little seam puckering, WT, LC, WC, RC, MMD, SMD is relatively large while RT, B, 2HB is small. 4. Judging from the result of estimating seam puckering based on mechanical properties, the estimate-formula is satisfied in this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1910-1923
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• 2009

This paper reviews four factors involved in apparel and textile manufacturing procedures under international economic fluctuation. This work will be helpful to evaluate the efficiency of global manufacturing systems. Production costs including direct costs related to material and labor costs, and indirect costs associated with manufacturing running ones are significantly correlated to diverse visible and invisible elements such as infrastructure and the labor skills of foreign manufacturing areas, which might create an apparent difference in production costs. Manufacturers can consider how to improve the efficiency of manufacturing systems through a review of the co-relationship between manufacturing procedures and four factors such as manufacturing systems, production outsourcing types, manufacturing locations, and production costs in detail. In addition, the four factors are the core parameters of determining or contributing to the efficiency of a production schedule that is ultimately associated with the supply chain management (SCM) to efficiently conduct Quick Response (QR).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.45-65
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• 2014

The importance of the cultural identity of each country is emphasized among the new cultural paradigm of the 21st century. Leading world-wide trends, overseas licensed fashion magazines have expressed characteristics close to the culture and lifestyle of each country at the same time. The goal of this study was focused on finding out the differences and similarities between overseas licensed fashion magazine, or if the content would be compared to the aesthetic characteristics and criteria of the country they were published in. To accomplish this, we extracted the color, material and modifier from the scripts of the Korean and Japanese editions of VOGUE published during S/S in 2012 for comparative analysis of the aspects of color, fabrics and modifier between Japan and Korea. There were common but also unique characteristics, as the issues of VOGUE KOREA and VOGUE JAPAN published during the research period had modifier to fit each season and trend, the emergence of color and fabric. Especially, the kind and frequency of color, fabric and modifier could be considered as expressing their own unique fashion culture. In case of Korea, maximal with colorful and decorative image is especially strong, while in Japan the soft and gentle feminine image was rather strong.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.462-475
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• 2015

This paper investigated the characteristics of the physical properties of woven fabrics according to the yarn structure and fibre property. It was found that wicking property of woven fabrics made of sheath/core hybrid yarn were better than those of siro spun and siro-fil hybrid yarns, which was caused by platform for transport of moisture vapor by filaments on the core part of sheath core hybrid yarns. In drying property, the fabric specimen woven by PP/Tencel sheath core hybrid yarns as a warp and Coolmax/Tencel spun yarn as a weft showed quick drying property, which was caused by the sheath core hybrid yarn structure as drainage of water moisture and coolmax fibre characteristics as quick dry material. Concerning to breathability and thermal conductivity as heat transport phenomena, it was observed that breathability of fabrics woven with hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp and hi-multi filaments in the weft showed the lowest water vapor resistance, which was explained as due to for air gap in the fibres of the spun yarns to restrict the wet heat transport from perspiration vapor. Thermal conductivities of the fabrics woven with PET/Tencel siro-fil yarns in the weft and hybrid yarns such as sheath core and siro-fil in the warp revealed the highest values, which was observed as due to higher thermal conductivity of PET than PP and more contact point between fibres in the siro-fil and sheath core hybrid yarns.