• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• 조형예술학연구
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• 제6권
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• pp.33-59
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolic meaning of the Tiger in Korean Folk Paintings, Minhwa, (hereafter, Minhwa) connected to its social contexts in Joseon period. Thinking of the Tiger Minhwa as a 'visual language' and regard the Tiger as a 'visual signifier' as well as the united-signifiers such as a Korean magpie, pine tree and so on in Minhwa. This research is to analyze these signifieds, 'Signified', what we say in this paper, have composed its symbolic meaning related to the social 'ideological complexes' and collective consciousness during Joseon period. In a word, the characteristic of the Tiger signifier has changed and spread out from the ideal trend to a worldly one. Since the late Joseon period, the change of the social contexts was, because of the civil classes who recognized the limitation of the Sung Confucianism(the doctrines of $Chi-Tz\={u}$), the predominated ideology of that time. To get rid of their uneasiness, they brought the Shamanism, Taoism and Buddhism at the front which were usually the lower class ideology or belief and tried to construct the collective consciousness and safety of their real lives. Therefore, the trend of this 'common conceptualization' show us the positiveness and flexibility to the Tiger signifier through the variation, appropriation and producing signifier. Moreover, even to the same Tiger, there were various meanings and most of them were concentrated in the meanings as follows ; Beoksa(in Korean term is to drive away evil spirits) and Gilsang, which is the good omen of a luck. All these were based on the value of 'this world'. In conclusion, through this research, the concept of the Tiger as a apotheosis has lowered its statutes and being secularized.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권6호통권59호
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• pp.883-895
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• 2005

Exaggeration is to express an object or a situation in an excessive way. As the desire for aesthetic expression grows greater today, we tended to focus on the exaggerative expression as a means to acquire other's attention and praise. Also people more actively express their own intention or opinion in an exaggerated manner. The purpose of this study is to identify the social and cultural functions of modern fashion via exaggerative expression, one of the formative characteristics, and its meaning. To do so, the exaggerative features of modern fashion have been analyzed, and the social and cultural meaning of those have been examined through the background of the times and aesthetic sense. The formative form in the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion was classified into a body priority type emphasizing woman's body contour, a body disregarded type shown oversized silhouette regardless of body contour and a body distorted type expressing free and diverse form in various shapes of asymmetry and imbalance. The symbolic meanings of those include the changing of the body consciousness and the notions of feminity, and the desire fur formative and playable expression. The exaggeration of the costume in history meant aesthetic value of the woman's body in the society led by men. However, the exaggerative expression shown in the modern fashion is a method to express more actively, as compared with the costume in the past.

• 복식
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• 제61권6호
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• pp.38-59
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• 2011

This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as 'Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values'. And women's costumes kept changing in the boundary of 'Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization' of traditional and western costumes. 'Confliction' phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman's life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. 'Coexistence' phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. 'Harmonization' phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.65-72
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• 1999

This paper tried to find out the various symbolic meanings and functions of landscape elements which Capital City of Shilla Dynasty contains, and what is the symbolism and identity of the city. Basically, this research took the thought of the place and the theory of cognition on landscape as a research tool, and undertook the process of surveying the physical surroundings of the city such as mountains, forests, tumuluses, mountain fortress walls, etc. Especially, the study referenced to a myth, thought, and a tale related to them of the surroundings. The research scope in time had been reached to the year of BC 57 which is beginning year of Shilla Dynasty form AC 467 which is year of introduction of new urban block system delivered from Dang Dynasty of ancient China. The results of research showed symbolic meanings of mountains and forests which is surrounding the Shilla capital from 4 directions of east, west, south and north. Namely, it was the places that the king of the kingdom of Shilla decent into the earth from the heaven. Also, the tumuluses which are located on the center of the capital imitated the surrounding mountains in forms, meaned the place that the dead king rised to heaven. All of these symbolized the Capital City of Dynasty as a sacred city which linked the heaven to earth, and earth to heaven. Finally, this paper suggested the Kyongju which is one of the most representative historic and tourist city in Korea should reflect this kind of symbolic meaning of ancient Capital City of Shilla Dynasty in case of arranging the urban identity plan to promote the quality of urban environment of Kyongju.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.11-20
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the various signs seen on TV commercials for school uniforms since year 2000, thus uncovering the connotative meanings in them. For this study, the semiotic approach has been used. The signs seen on the TV commercials are separated into linguistic and visual signs. They are found to have symbolic connotations. The results are as follows: First, there are plenty of signs expressing the sense of belonging to the student group and sense of conformity to his or her peer group. They are intended to garner their collective identity in the peer group of teenagers. Second, the TV commercials express the self that is realizing one's value dynamically. The frequent designation of 'I', 'me' and 'myself' represents that I am at the center of the world. Furthermore, the suggestion of diverse student roles beyond mere academic pursuits symbolically shows the ideal self that most teenagers wish to have. Third, the TV commercials implied a commercial ideology. That is expressed in the emphasis on aesthetic value that teenagers can realize their self only by consuming expensive school uniform brands. Forth, there are many signs related to appearance and appearance care. They are expressed with very specific signs such as 3 : 7 proportion, long legs, small face, and so on. Repeating or emphasizing the importance of looks and a certain brand name as the tool to accomplish better looks indicates that it contains the ideology of appearance management.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.666-676
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• 2009

Oral folk tale, which are organized stories that have been handed down to each district, includes a lot of mention about local specialties related to food. In folk tales consisting of linguistic signs, food plays a role in expressing not only instinct and desire but also order, exclusion and communication of human beings. Understanding the matters of concern or consciousness that community members of the time have put an emphasis on through food included in folk tales can be useful for better understanding the culture of the time and the food in folk tales can be a symbolic code. In this study, food mentioned in folk tales were classified into six groups, medicine, love, god, livelihood, provision and power focused on both inland and coastal regions that are referred to in most of the sixteen volumes of Korean Oral Folk Tales. In addition, the symbolic meanings of these groups were examined. This study can contribute to establishing the foundation of the globalization of the Korean food by determining the way Korea food can become a world class food. This study aims to reinterpret and combine culture and art with the food of Korea based on six symbolic meanings of food expressed in Korean Oral Folk Tales.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.119-128
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• 2000

this study was designed to discuss the pattern of Confucian funeral ceremony and its costumes in Chosun dynasty thereby exploring the ideas and symbolic meanings expressed on them. 1. Male's official mourning dresses were composed of Choieui symbolizing sadness Choisang(최상), Dukun Sangkwan Sujil Yojil Kyodai and mourning stick Female's official mourning dresses consisted of Daersoojangkon and Kaedoo which were of simple kinds as compared to those of males. Duration of wearing mourning dreses was the longest to the death of father husband and eldest son The forms of mouring dresses were one and the same irrespective of the noble and the mean which expressed the sameness of the sorrow full of losting blood relative. Symbol expressed on funeral ceremony costumes were something like "eldestson-oriented" "male-centered" "distinction of the sexes" and "principle of yin and yang" to reinforce vitality to the costumes. 2. In the other funeral ceremony costumes in a royal fami8ly were those Euijangsu in red and blue colors Yeosakon in purple and white colors. Bandsman in Danryung and Guards in Kukonbok Changeui and Hoeui with five colors while the generally of people woere white dress in the ceremony Hoeui with five colors symbolized the principle of Yin and Yang costumes of military uniforms the dignity of the royal family: white dresses grife symbolizing the dignity of a royal family and Confucian sorrow as well 3. Unlike the mouring dresses there were great differences relative to socio-ecpmpomic status in funeral goods for dercoration Soyeo and daeyeo Among the goods the instrument to drive out evil spirites symbolized shamanism the distinction of Soyeo and Daeyeo separation of body and soul; the sculpture of the Lord of Hades and messenger philosophy of buddhistic netherworld: the engraving of blue and yellow dragons in bier and Juksanma the principles of Yin and Yang : elaborate burial accesaries realistic viewpoint of the hereafter.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.57-75
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• 2007

Bulguk Temple, one of the national temples, sublimated the high formalism and symbolism into lovely art, and thus be called the pinnacle of Korean architecture. Of many characteristic structures of Bulguk Temple, the stone stereobate and stairs have a great importance in that we can read out the purpose of the architect through their relics. Especially, the stone stairs are noteworthy for they structuralize the intentional space division. The objects of this observation are Yeonwhagyo and Chilbogyo bridges at the entrance of Keungnakjeon precinct, and Cheongwoongyo and Baekwoongyo stairs at the entrance of Daewoongjun precinct. All these relics are the structures that divide the precinct areas on the basis of Buddhist theory and have strong symbolic meanings as well. Although the diverse studies have made on the structures, there are many insufficient aspects for the manifestation of the meanings. In this study, I considered the Buddhist dogmatic meanings of the structures in the formalistic view of the Buddhist architecture. The study was proceeded in the way that the establishments of former studies were fully reflected in it. Through the study, I could confirm that the objects of consideration have the double formalistic meanings and they are strongly structuralizing the symbolism.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.87-97
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• 2004

패션잡지에 실린 패션 및 뷰티 관련 상품의 광고들은 현시대의 미의 이상을 제시하고, 상품소비를 통해 이를 성취할 수 있음을 제안함으로써 신체와 관련한 미적 상징성을 보여준다. 본 연구의 목적은 신체수정을 위한 상품의 특성과 상징적 의미를 확인하는 데 있으며, 이를 위해 여성잡지 Vogue와 남성잡지 GQ 광고 중 화장품과 바디케어 용품 광고를 선정하여, 이를 신체의 특성, 즉 색상, 볼륨과 비율, 형태와 구조, 텍스쳐, 향의 측면에서 구분하여 조사하였다. 그 결과, Vogue와 GQ 모두 다양한 종류의 신체수정을 위한 상품광고를 선보이고 있었으며, 상대적으로 Vogue가 GQ보다 더 많은 양과 종류의 상품 광고를 보이고 있었다. 신체의 특성에 따른 상품의 비중을 보면, Vogue는 신체의 색상과 관련한 시각적인 면이 높게 나타났고. 반면, GQ는 신체의 골격과 형태미, 볼륨과 비율, 그리고 향과 같은 덜 시각적인 면에서의 상품비중이 높았으며, 텍스쳐와 관련한 상품은 비슷한 비율로 나타났다. 이들 상품광고의 텍스트와 이미지에서 보이는 특성은 다기능성. 자연성, 개별성으로 구분할 수 있으며, 세계적 미의 추구, 젊음과 건강 이데올로기, 젠더 무경계화라는 상징적 의미를 내포하고 있다.