• Title/Summary/Keyword: Surface water waves

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PIV Applications for Flow Analysis of Floating Breakwater with double barriers (이흘수판형 부소파제 주위의 유동해석을 위한 PIV 적용)

  • Kim, Ho;Cho, Dae-Hwan;Lee, Gyoung-Woo;Gim, Ok-Sok
    • Proceedings of KOSOMES biannual meeting
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    • 2006.11a
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    • pp.53-58
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    • 2006
  • Along with the development of costal engineering, various type of breakwaters have been built. The main purpose of breakwaters are to provide harbour protection against waves, to stabilize beaches against erosion due to large wave action, and to provide for temporary wave protection for installation on or under water surface. This paper an application example of PIV system for analyzing the flow of Floating Breakwater with double barriers. We introduce an analysis method to predict the characteristics of flow around the neighboring fields of Floating Breakwater with double barriers in order to develop a high performance model. Flow visualization has conducted in circulating water channel by a high speed camera and etc. Flowing phenomenon according to velocity distribution and flow separation around the breakwater with double barriers were obtained by 2-D PIV system.

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LARGE-SCALE VERSUS EDDY EFFECTS CONTROLLING THE INTERANNUAL VARIATION OF MIXED LAYER TEMPERATURE OVER THE NINO3 REGION

  • Kim, Seung-Bum;Lee, Tong;Fukumori, Ichiro
    • Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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    • v.1
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    • pp.21-24
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    • 2006
  • Processes controlling the interannual variation of mixed layer temperature (MLT) averaged over the NINO3 domain ($150-90^{\circ}W$, $5^{\circ}N-5^{\circ}S$) are studied using an ocean data assimilation product that covers the period of 1993 to 2003. Advective tendencies are estimated here as the temperature fluxes through the domain's boundaries, with the boundary temperature referenced to the domain-averaged temperature to remove the dependence on temperature scale. The overall balance is such that surface heat flux opposes the MLT change but horizontal advection and subsurface processes assist the change. The zonal advective tendency is caused primarily by large-scale advection of warm-pool water through the western boundary of the domain. The meridional advective tendency is contributed mostly by Ekman current advecting large-scale temperature anomalies though the southern boundary of the domain. Unlike many previous studies, we explicitly evaluate the subsurface processes that consist of vertical mixing and entrainment. In particular, a rigorous method to estimate entrainment allows an exact budget closure. The vertical mixing across the mixed layer (ML) base has a contribution in phase with the MLT change. The entrainment tendency due to temporal change in ML depth is negligible comparing to other subsurface processes. The entrainment tendency by vertical advection across the ML base is dominated by large-scale changes in wind-driven upwelling and temperature of upwelling water. Tropical instability waves (TIWs) result in smaller-scale vertical advection that warms the domain during La Ni? cooling events. When the advective tendencies are evaluated by spatially averaging the conventional local advective tendencies of temperature, the apparent effects of currents with spatial scales smaller than the domain (such as TIWs) become very important as they redistribute heat within the NINO3 domain. However, such internal redistribution of heat does not represent external processes that control the domain-averaged MLT.

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An Analytical Model with Three Sub-Regions for $M_2$ Tide in the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea

  • Jung, Kyung-Tae;Park, Chang-Wook;Oh, Im-Sang;So, Jae-Kwi
    • Ocean Science Journal
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    • v.40 no.4
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    • pp.191-200
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    • 2005
  • In this study an analytical tide model of uniform width with three sub-regions is presented. The three-subregions model takes into account step-like variations in depths in the direction of the channel as a way to examine the $M_2$ tide of the East China Sea (ECS) as well as the Yellow Sea (YS). A modified Proudman radiation condition has been applied at the northern open head, while the sea surface elevation is specified at the southern open boundary. It is seen that, due to the presence of an abrupt change in depth, co-amplitude lines of the $M_2$ tide are splitted to the east and west near the end of the ECS shelf region. Variations in depths, bottom friction and the open head boundary conditions all contribute to the determination of formation of amphidromes as well as overall patterns of $M_2$ tidal distribution. It is seen that increasing water depth and bottom friction in the ECS shelf results in the westward shift of the southern amphidrome. There is however no hint at all of the well-known degenerated tidal pattern being formed. It is inferred that a lateral variation of water depth has to be somehow incorporated to represent the tidal patterns in ECS in a realistic manner. Regarding the radiation factor introduced by Fang et al. (1991), use of a value larger than one, possibly with a phase shift, appears to be a proper way of incorporating the reflected waves from the northern Yellow Sea (NYS).

Study on Depth Estimation and Characteristic Analysis of Underwater Source Based on Deep-Sea Broadband Signal Modeling (심해역 광대역 신호 모델링 기반 수중 음원의 심도 추정 및 특성 분석 연구)

  • Sunhyo Kim;Hansoo Kim;Donhyug Kang;Sungho Cho
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Military Science and Technology
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.535-543
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    • 2024
  • Studies on estimating the underwater sound source localization using acoustic signal characteristics have mainly been conducted in shallow waters. Recently, technologies for stably and efficiently estimating the underwater sound sources localization using the underwater sound propagation characteristics of the Reliable Acoustic Path(RAP) in deep water areas are being studied. Underwater surveillance technology in deep sea areas is known to have the advantage of having low detection performance variability due to time-varying underwater environments and having a small shadow zone, making it easy to stably detect underwater sound sources and estimate location even from relatively long distance. In this study, we analyzed the sound propagation characteristics based on the actual marine environment in the deep sea of the Korean Peninsula and conducted a study to analyze the estimation performance of sound source depth using the broadband interference pattern of direct wave and sea surface reflected waves radiating from underwater sound sources.

Suspension of Sediment over Swash Zone (Swash대역에서의 해빈표사 부유거동에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Yong Jun;Kim, Kwon Soo;Ryu, Ha Sang
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.28 no.1B
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    • pp.95-109
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    • 2008
  • We numerically analyzed the nonlinear shoaling, a plunging breaker and its accompanying energetic suspension of sediment at a bed, and a redistribution of suspended sediments by a down rush of preceding waves and the following plunger using SPH with a Gaussian kernel function, Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky model (LDS), Van Rijn's pick up function. In that process, we came to the conclusion that the conventional model for the tractive force at a bottom like a quadratic law can not accurately describe the rapidly accelerating flow over a swash zone, and propose new methodology to accurately estimate the bottom tractive force. Using newly proposed wave model in this study, we can successfully duplicate severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particles, a queuing splash after the landing of water particles on the free surface and a wave finger due to the structured vortex on a rear side of wave crest (Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002), a circulation of suspended sediments over a swash zone, net transfer of sediments clouds suspended over a swash zone toward the offshore, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

Discussion on Optimal Shape for Wave Power Converter Using Oscillating Water Column (진동수주형 파력발전구조물의 최적형상에 대한 검토)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Park, Jung-Hyun;Baek, Dong-Jin;Cho, Sung;Kim, Do-Sam
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.23 no.5
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    • pp.345-357
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    • 2011
  • Recently, as part of diversifying energy sources and earth environmental issues, technology development of new renewable energy using wave energy is actively promoted and commercialized around Europe and Japan etc. In particular, OWC(Oscillating Water Column) wave power generation system using air flow induced by vertical movement of the water surface by waves in an air-chamber within caisson is known as the most efficient wave energy absorption device and therefore, is one of the wave power generation apparatus the closest to commercialization. This study examines air flow velocity, which operates turbine(Wells turbine) directly in oscillating water column type wave power generation structure from two-and three-dimensional numerical experiments and discusses optimal shape of oscillating water column type wave power generation structure by estimating the maximum flow rate of air according to change in shape. The three-dimensional numerical wave flume was applied in interpretation for this study which is the model for the immiscible two-phase flow based on the Navier-Stokes Equation. From this, it turned out that size of optimal shape appears differently according to the incident wave period and air flow is maximized at the period where minimum reflection ratio occurs.

Characteristics of Beach Change and Sediment Transport by Field Survey in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach (신지명사십리 해수욕장에서 현장조사에 의한 해빈변화와 퇴적물이동 특성)

  • Jeong, Seung Myong;Park, Il Heum
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.27 no.5
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    • pp.594-604
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    • 2021
  • To evaluate the causes of beach erosion in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach, external forces, such as tides, tidal currents, and waves, were observed seasonally from March 2019 to March 2020, and the surface sediments were analyzed for this period. In addition, the shoreline positions and beach elevations were regularly surveyed with a VRS GPS and fixed-wing drone. From these field data, the speed of the tidal currents was noted to be insufficient, but the waves were observed to af ect the deformation of the beach. As the beach is open to the southern direction, waves of heights over 1 m were received in the S-SE direction during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Large waves with heights over 2 m were observed during typhoons in summer and fall. Because of the absence of typhoons for the previous two years from July 2018, the beach area over datum level (DL) as of July 2018 was greater by 30,138m2 compared with that of March 2019, and the beach area as of March 2020 decreased by 61,210m2 compared with that of March 2019 because of four typhoon attacks after July 2018. The beach volume as of March 2019 decreased by 5.4% compared with that of July 2018 owing to two typhoons, and the beach volume as of September 2019 decreased by 7.3% because of two typhoons during the observation year. However, the volume recovered slightly by about 3% during fall and winter, when there were no high waves. According to the sediment transport vectors by GSTA, the sediments were weakly influxed from small streams located at the center of the beach; the movement vectors were not noticeable at the west beach site, but the westward sediment transport under the water and seaward vectors from the foreshore beach were prominently observed at the east beach site. These patterns of westward sediment vectors could be explained by the angle between the annual mean incident wave direction and beach opening direction. This angle was inclined 24° counterclockwise with the west-east direction. Therefore, the westward wave-induced currents developed strongly during the large-wave seasons. Hence, the sand content is high in the west-side beach but the east-side beach has been eroded seriously, where the pebbles are exposed and sand dune has decreased because of the lack of sand sources except for the soiled dunes. Therefore, it is proposed that efforts for creating new sediment sources, such as beach nourishment and reducing wave heights via submerged breakwaters, be undertaken for the eastside of the beach.

Numerical Analysis of Wave Transformation of Bore in 2-Dimensional Water Channel and Resultant Wave Loads Acting on 2-Dimensional Vertical Structure (2차원수조내에서 단파의 변형과 구조물에 작용하는 단파파력에 관한 수치해석)

  • Lee, Kwang Ho;Kim, Chang Hoon;Kim, Do Sam;Hwang, Young Tae
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.29 no.5B
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    • pp.473-482
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    • 2009
  • This study numerically discusses wave forces acting on a vertical wall such as breakwaters or revetments, subjected to incident undular or turbulent bores. Due to the complex hydrodynamics of bore, its wave forces have been predicted, mainly through laboratory experiments. Numerical simulations in this paper were carried out by CADMAS-SURF(CDIT, 2001), which is based on Navier-Stokes momentum equations and VOF method (Hirt and Nichols, 1981) for tracking free water surface. Its original source code was also partly revised to generate bore in the numerical water channel. Numerical raw data computed by CADMAS-SURF included great strong spike phenomena that show the abrupt jumps of wave loads. To resolve this undesired noise of raw data, the band-pass filter with the frequency of 5Hz was utilized. The filtered results showed reasonable agreements with the experimental results performed by Matsutomi (1991) and Ramsden (1996). It was confirmed that CADMASSURF can be applied to the design of coastal structures against tsunami bores. In addition, the transformation process and propagation speed of bores in the same 2-d water channel were discussed by the variations of water level for time and space. The numerical results indicated that the propagation speed of bore was changed due to the nonlinear interactions between negative and reflected waves.

Some physical characteristics of Gamak Bay observed in October and November of year 2004 (2004년 10월 및 11월에 관측된 가막만의 물리환경)

  • Lee, Moon-Ock;Kim, Byeong-Kuk;Park, Sung-Jin;Kim, Jong-Kyu
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.165-173
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    • 2005
  • Field observations have been conducted to investigate the physical environment around oyster farms in Gamak Bay. Tidal waves near the two channels at the northeast and south of the bay had almost the same amplitudes and phases. Water temperature responded sensibly to the tides, rising at high water and falling at low water, except for the northwest region. The currents more regularly varied in accordance with a tidal period as long as they are at the faster-flowing region. A considerable flow has been found near the seabed of the northwest of the bay, normally known to be a stagnant area, and also the flow was opposite to the surface flow. Average moving speeds and directions of the flow at each station coincided well with patterns of the residual currents computed by Lee ef al. [2004], except for the northwest region. The discrepancy for the northwest region is not clear but it may have resulted from the facts that the computed flow pattern represents only the case of spring tide and in addition, a northwesterly wind prevailed all the observation time.

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Estimating Worst Case Flood and Inundation Damages under Climate Change

  • Kim, Sunmin;Tachikawa, Yasuto;Nakakita, Eiichi
    • Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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    • 2016.05a
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    • pp.189-189
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    • 2016
  • To generate information that contributes to climate change risk management, it is important to perform a precise assessment on the impact in diverse aspects. Considering this academic necessity, Japanese government launched continuous research project for the climate change impact assessment, and one of the representative project is Program for Risk Information on Climate Change (Sousei Program), Theme D; Precise Impact Assessment on Climate Change (FY2012 ~ FY2016). In this research program, quantitative impact assessments have been doing from a variety of perspectives including natural hazards, water resources, and ecosystems and biodiversity. Especially for the natural hazards aspect, a comprehensive impact assessment has been carried out with the worst-case scenario of typhoons, which cause the most serious weather-related damage in Japan, concerning the frequency and scale of the typhoons as well as accompanying disasters by heavy rainfall, strong winds, high tides, high waves, and landslides. In this presentation, a framework of comprehensive impact assessment with the worst-case scenario under the climate change condition is introduced based on a case study of Theme D in Sousei program There are approx. 25 typhoons annually and around 10 of those approach or make landfall in Japan. The number of typhoons may not change increase in the future, but it is known that a small alteration in the path of a typhoon can have an extremely large impact on the amount of rain and wind Japan receives, and as a result, cause immense damage. Specifically, it is important to assess the impact of a complex disaster including precipitation, strong winds, river overflows, and high tide inundation, simulating how different the damage of Isewan Typhoon (T5915) in 1959 would have been if the typhoon had taken a different path, or how powerful or how much damage it would cause if Isewan Typhoon occurs again in the future when the sea surface water temperature has risen due to climate changes (Pseudo global warming experiment). The research group also predict and assess how the frequency of "100-years return period" disasters and worst-case damage will change in the coming century. As a final goal in this research activity, the natural disaster impact assessment will extend not only Japan but also major rivers in Southeast Asia, with a special focus on floods and inundations.

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