• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

쇄파대 파랑모의의 정확도를 높이기위해 타원형 완경사방정식에 Shuto의 경험식에 근거한 비선형 천수효과를 도입하였고 쇄파구조를 추가하였다. 천수 실험을 통해 상대수심과 심해 파형경사에 따른 천수계수의 변화를 확인한 결과 Shuto의 비선형 천수식과 잘 일치하였다. 쇄파실험에서 비선형 천수효과로 인해 선형모형에 비해 상승된 파고 분포를 확인할 수 있었고 실험치와 잘 일치하였다. 쇄파구조는 1/10 경사지형에서는 실험치와 잘 일치하였지만 1/20 경사지형에서는 과도한 에너지 감쇄를 보여주었다.

• 한국항해항만학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국항해항만학회 1998년도 추계학술대회논문집:21세기에 대비한 지능형 통합항만관리
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• pp.189-199
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• 1998

Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study, one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mising, radiation stresses, surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland's(1985) relult is used to calculate radiation stress and Berkmeir & Darlymple's(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda's(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Maruyama's(1985) experimental relults and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater test. The results from our wave model show good agreement with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. Wave induced current model is developed in this study and this model shows nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater and can be applied in the surf zone and also consider the friction stresses.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.75-80
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• 1996

The importance of the impact force on the vertical offshore circular structure member in the surf zone due to the breaking wave has been recognized recently. In this paper characteristics of breaking wave forces and the corresponding estimation procedures for them are investigated. For the characterization of the wave forces, three parts, drag force, inertia force, impact force are categorized and identified, respectively. Among them the impact force is maimly studied and the concise form of the force is proposed with the application scheme for the design of offshore circular structure member. The resulting form porposed here for impact force is well coincided with former research results by other people. Except the impact force, so called Morison equation can be employed for the common offshore structure design. The drag force and inertia force are represented as convertionally for the profile except the breaking part. In the numerical example, for thpical sea condition and the member size, the proposed procedures for the breaking wave forces calculation are demonstrated. It is found that the impact force is the most deminant one comparing with inertia and drag forces in the surf zone.

• 한국항만학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.269-280
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• 1998

A Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mixing radiation stresses surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland’s(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda’s(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Naruyama’s (1985) experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. The results from our wave model and wave model and wave-induced current model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. The model in this study can be applied in the surf zone considering the friction stresses.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.

• 한국수산과학회지
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• 제41권3호
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• pp.215-220
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• 2008

This study examined the stability of cross- and box-type artificial reefs used to construct seaweed beds. Theoretical and experimental studies have clarified the Froude similitude. However, basic data needed to develop a more stable design for artificial reefs must be collected from long-term studies and analyses of sliding caused by waves. Hydraulic experiments are important for solving problems in the design and construction of artificial reefs. This study examined some design parameters for artificial reefs under wave and currents. The results showed the stability of cross- and box-type artificial reefs for constructing seaweed beds using a dimensionless parameter (the surf similarity parameter), water particle velocity, and so on. The hydraulics experiment indicated that the stability of artificial reefs differed according to their method of installation. This implies that artificial reefs should be installed after considering various environmental factors, such as wave breaking, reflection, and sediments.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.120-124
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the stability of the arched and fan types of artificial reefs, which provide habitats for shellfish and seaweed. According to the Froude similitude, parameters affecting the stability of the artificial reefs were analytically, experimentally studied. First, the design parameters of the artificial reefs in wave and current fields were presented. Then, using dimensionless parameters, such as the surf similarity parameter and water particle speed, the stability of the arched and fan types of artificial reefs was investigated. From the hydraulic experiments, it is shown that the stability heavily depends on the way the artificial reefs are installed. Therefore, the installation of the artificial reefs on the surf zone should be carefully executed.

• 한국해양학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.135-144
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• 1990

1984년 9월부터 1985년 8월까지 대천해수욕장 모래질 쇄파대에서 월별로 지인망을 이용하여 어류를 채집하여 계절에 따른 어류군집의 종조성 변화를 분석하였다. 각 조 사시기의 사리 때에 간조 전후 2시간 간격으로 5회 채집을 실시하였다. 출현한 35종 가운데, 날개망둑(Favonigobius gymnqauchen), 청보리멸(Silago japonica), 전어 (Konosirus punctatus), 밴댕이 (Sardinella zunasi) 및, 얼룩망둑(Chaenogobius mororana)이 우점하여 전체 개체수의 79%를 차지하였다. 생체량에서는 전어, 날개망 둑, 청보리멸, 밴댕이 및 돌가자미(Kareius bicoloratus)가 67%를 차지하였다. 연평균 어류의 개체수와 생체량은 각각 0.13개체/m$^2$와 0.33g/m$^2$으로 다른 해역에 비하여 낮 은 값이 관찰되었다. 출현종수, 개체수 및 생체량은 수온과 유의한 상관관계를 보였 다. 봄에는 주거종인 날개망둑이 우점하였으며, 6개월 이종의 성어가 대량 출현하여 높은 생물량이 관찰되었다. 8월에서 9월 사이에서 회유종인 청보리멸, 전어, 밴댕이 등의 유어가 우점하였다. 연구해역 어류군집의 양적 변동은 일차적으로 수온, 혹은 수 온과 상관관계를 갖는 요인에 좌우되며, 우점동일 생활사에 따른 서식처 이동에 의하 여 일년을 주기로 구성종이 계절에 따라 종조성이 변하는 것으로 추정된다.

• 한국수산과학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.340-348
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• 1997

1993년 1월 소조와 대조때 썰매네트로 돌산도 모래해안 쇄파대 1m 수심의 표층과 저층과 바닷가에서 옆새우 단각류를 채집해서 우점하는 세 종의 대상분포를 비교했다. 단각류는 표층보다는 저층과 바닷가에 많이 나타났다. Pontogenera rostrata와 Allorchestes anusta의 밀도는 저층과 바닷가에서 대조보다 소조때 높았으나, Synchelidium lenorostralum은 소조때 더 낮았다. P. rostrata는 밀물과 썰물에 따라 수평이동을 했으나, S. lenrostralum과 A. angusta는 수평이동을 하지 않았다. 다른 두 종과 달리 P. rostrata는 낮보다는 밤에 유의하게 많이 나타나, 밤에 활발히 이동하는 듯하다. P. rostrata는 밀물때 밤에는 평균해수면 (MSL) 위 100cm까지 나타나지만, 낮에는 MSL 위쪽에 나타나지 않았다 그러나, 썰물때는 낮과 밤 모두 MSL 부근부터 MSL 아래 150cm 사이에 분포했다. S. lenorostralum과 A. angusta는 썰물때만 나타났으며, 분포범위는 전자가 MSL 150cm보다 아래쪽, 후자가 MSL부근부터 MSL 아래 150 cm 사이였다. P. rostrata와 S. lenorostralum과 A. angusta의 최고 밀도는 각각 32, 26, 3마리/$m^2$였다. 그리고, 모래해안에 사는 단각류의 분포양상과 생활양식의 관계를 논의했다.