• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.75-86
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• 1998

To design a coastal structure in the nearshore region, engineers must have means to estimate wave climate. Waves, approaching the surf zone from offshore, experience changes caused by combined effects of bathymetric variations, interference of man-made structure, and nonlinear interactions among wave trains. This paper has attempted to find out the effects of two of the more subtle phenomena involving nonlinear shallow water waves, amplitude dispersion and secondary wave generation. Boussinesq-type equations can be used to model the nonlinear transformation of surface waves in shallow water due to effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, and reflection. In this paper, generalized Boussinesq equations under the complex bottom condition is derived using the depth averaged velocity with the series expansion of the velocity potential as a product of powers of the depth of flow. A time stepping finite difference method is used to solve the derived equation. Numerical results are compared to hydraulic model results. The result with the non-linear dispersive wave equation can describe an interesting transformation a sinusoidal wave to one with a cnoidal aspect of a rapid degradation into modulated high frequency waves and transient secondary waves in an intermediate region. The amplitude dispersion of the primary wave crest results in a convex wave front after passing through the shoal and the secondary waves generated by the shoal diffracted in a radial manner into surrounding waters.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.437-444
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• 2020

A lunar rover's optical camera is used to provide navigation and terrain information in an exploration zone. However, due to the scant presence of atmosphere, the Moon has homogeneous terrain with dark soil. Also, in extreme environments, the rover has limited data storage with low computation capability. Thus, for successful exploration, it is required to examine feature detection and matching methods which are robust to lunar terrain and environmental characteristics. In this research, SIFT, SURF, BRISK, ORB, and AKAZE are comparatively analyzed with lunar terrain images from a lunar rover. Experimental results show that SIFT and AKAZE are most robust for lunar terrain characteristics. AKAZE detects less quantity of feature points than SIFT, but feature points are detected and matched with high precision and the least computational cost. AKAZE is adequate for fast and accurate navigation information. Although SIFT has the highest computational cost, the largest quantity of feature points are stably detected and matched. The rover periodically sends terrain images to Earth. Thus, SIFT is suitable for global 3D terrain map construction in that a large amount of terrain images can be processed on Earth. Study results are expected to provide a guideline to utilize feature detection and matching methods for future lunar exploration rovers.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.28 no.7
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• pp.619-627
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. We also considered the increase of water depth at the entrance channel by dredging work up to 15 meters depth in order to see the dredging effect. Among several model analyses, the nonlinear and breaking wave conditions are showed the most applicable results. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.305-312
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• 1995

In general, the radiation stresses based on the linear wave theory are overestimated which result in the discrepancy between the computed results and laboratory data of mean water level in the surf zone. Oh (1995) estimated the mean water level by using Svendsen's radiation stress model (1984) and compared with the experimental data. In this study. the computed results showed good agreements with the experimental data in the case of small wave steepness. while the results were overestimated in the case of large wave steepness. In this paper. the dimensionless radiation stress proposed by Svendsen (1984) is expressed in terms of relative water depth at breaking point and deep water wave steepness. The computed results are compared with the results calculated by d linear wave theory, Stive's model (1984). Sawaragi et al's model (1984) based on the spectrum of breaking wave components. and published laboratory data. The computed results of the modified Svendsen's model arc favourably compared with the laboratory data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.217-225
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• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Ulsan Harbor and Ulsan New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Ulsan Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macro scale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-20
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• 2018

The target area of the proposed study, Mamaia beach, is a narrow stretch of sand barrier island that sits between the Siutghiol Lake and the Black Sea. In the northern part of the bay, is located the Midia Port, where between 1966 and 1971 a long extension of 5 km of the offshore was built. Because of this extension, the natural flow of sediments has been significantly changed. Thus, the southern part of the Mamaia Bay had less sand nourishment which meant that the coast was eroding and to prevent it a protection of six dikes was built. After approximately forty years of coastal erosion, the south of the Mamaia Bay had in 2016 a new protection scheme, which includes first of all the beach nourishment and a new dike structure (groins scheme for protection) to protect it. From this perspective, the objective of the proposed study is to evaluate the effectiveness of the old Master plan against the new one by modeling the outcome of the two scenarios and to perform a comparison with a third one, in which the protection dikes do not exist and only the artificial nourishment has been done. In order to assess the wave processes and the current patterns along the shoreline, a complex computational framework has been applied in the target area. This joins the SWAN spectral phase averaged model with the 1D surf model. Furthermore, new UAV technology was also used to map out, chart and validate the numerical model outputs within the target zone for a better evaluation of the trends expected in the shoreline dynamics.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.39 no.11 s.172
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• pp.961-968
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• 2006

Since a small harbor is often located near surf zone areas which have great influences of sediment transport, there is a great possibility that the sediment will be deposited inside of the harbor. The sediment transport occurring around the harbor entrance can't be explained by the wind wave and wave induced current. In this study, it was investigated the mechanism of the entrainment of sediment into a small harbor with permeable breakwater using hydraulic experiments in 3D wave basin. It is found out that the significant sediment entrainment produced when the mode of oscillation in the harbor became the 1st mode. In the case where the incident wave period was shorter than the period that caused higher mode oscillation in harbor, only a little amount of sediment entrainment took place. The vortex shedding from the top of secondary breakwater played very important roll in the entrainment of sediment into the harbor. It is also found that the small jetty attached at the top of secondary breakwater could effectively prevent the entrainment of sediment into the harbor.