• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 1998.10a
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• pp.189-199
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• 1998

Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study, one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mising, radiation stresses, surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland's(1985) relult is used to calculate radiation stress and Berkmeir & Darlymple's(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda's(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Maruyama's(1985) experimental relults and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater test. The results from our wave model show good agreement with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. Wave induced current model is developed in this study and this model shows nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater and can be applied in the surf zone and also consider the friction stresses.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.75-80
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• 1996

The importance of the impact force on the vertical offshore circular structure member in the surf zone due to the breaking wave has been recognized recently. In this paper characteristics of breaking wave forces and the corresponding estimation procedures for them are investigated. For the characterization of the wave forces, three parts, drag force, inertia force, impact force are categorized and identified, respectively. Among them the impact force is maimly studied and the concise form of the force is proposed with the application scheme for the design of offshore circular structure member. The resulting form porposed here for impact force is well coincided with former research results by other people. Except the impact force, so called Morison equation can be employed for the common offshore structure design. The drag force and inertia force are represented as convertionally for the profile except the breaking part. In the numerical example, for thpical sea condition and the member size, the proposed procedures for the breaking wave forces calculation are demonstrated. It is found that the impact force is the most deminant one comparing with inertia and drag forces in the surf zone.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.269-280
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• 1998

A Wave-induced current model is developed in our study and this model is composed with wave transform model and current model. Two types of wave model are used in our study one is Copeland(1985) type which is applied in the offshore region and the other is Watanabe and Maruyama(1984) type which is applied in the surf zone. The depth-integrated and time-averaged governing equation of an unsteady nonlinear form is used in the wave induced current model. Lateral mixing radiation stresses surface and bottom stresses are considered in our current model. Copeland’s(1976) is used as a surface friction formula. Numerical solutions are obtained by Leendertse scheme and compared with Noda’s(1974) experimental results for the uniform slope coastal region test and Nishimura & Naruyama’s (1985) experimental results and numerical simulation results for the detached breakwater. The results from our wave model and wave model and wave-induced current model show good agreements with the others and also show nonlinear effects around the detached breakwater. The model in this study can be applied in the surf zone considering the friction stresses.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.251-269
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• 2022

The process-based XBeach model has numerous empirical parameters because of insufficient understanding of hydrodynamics and sediment transport on the nearshore; hence, it is necessary to calibrate parameters to apply to various study areas and wave conditions. Therefore, the calibration process of parameters is essential for the improvement of model performance. Generally, the trial-and-error method is widely used; however, this method is passive and limited to various and comprehensive parameter ranges. In this study, the Generalized Likelihood Uncertainty Estimation (GLUE) method was used to estimate the optimal range of three parameters (gamma, facua, and gamma2) using morphological field data collected in Maengbang beach during the four typhoons that struck from September to October 2019. The model performance and optimal range of empirical parameters were evaluated using Brier Skill Score (BSS) along with the baseline profiles, sensitivity, and likelihood density analysis of BSS in the GLUE tools. Accordingly, the optimal parameter combinations were derived when facua was less than 0.15 and simulated well the shifting shape, from crescentic sand bar to alongshore uniform sand bars in the surf zone of Maengbang beach after storm impact. However, the erosion and accretion patterns nearby in the surf zone and shoreline remain challenges in the XBeach model.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.215-220
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• 2008

This study examined the stability of cross- and box-type artificial reefs used to construct seaweed beds. Theoretical and experimental studies have clarified the Froude similitude. However, basic data needed to develop a more stable design for artificial reefs must be collected from long-term studies and analyses of sliding caused by waves. Hydraulic experiments are important for solving problems in the design and construction of artificial reefs. This study examined some design parameters for artificial reefs under wave and currents. The results showed the stability of cross- and box-type artificial reefs for constructing seaweed beds using a dimensionless parameter (the surf similarity parameter), water particle velocity, and so on. The hydraulics experiment indicated that the stability of artificial reefs differed according to their method of installation. This implies that artificial reefs should be installed after considering various environmental factors, such as wave breaking, reflection, and sediments.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.120-124
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the stability of the arched and fan types of artificial reefs, which provide habitats for shellfish and seaweed. According to the Froude similitude, parameters affecting the stability of the artificial reefs were analytically, experimentally studied. First, the design parameters of the artificial reefs in wave and current fields were presented. Then, using dimensionless parameters, such as the surf similarity parameter and water particle speed, the stability of the arched and fan types of artificial reefs was investigated. From the hydraulic experiments, it is shown that the stability heavily depends on the way the artificial reefs are installed. Therefore, the installation of the artificial reefs on the surf zone should be carefully executed.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.135-144
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• 1990

Fish assemblage occupying the surf zone habitat of Taecheon sand beach in Cheonsu Bay was analyzed using monthly samples collected by a beach seine from September 1984 through August 1985. During each sampling period five hauls were completed, one at each 2-hour interval during the spring tide. Of 35 species identified, Favonigobius gymnauchen, Sillago japonica, Konosirus punctatus, Sardinella zunasi and chaenogobius mororana accounted for 79% of the individuals collected, and F. gymnauchen, s. japonica, K. punctatus, S. zunasi and Kareius bicoloratus constituted 67% of the biomass obtained. Overall abundance in terms of numbers and in biomass were 0.13 individuals/m$^2$ and 0.33g/m$^2$, respectively. A larger number of individuals and greater biomass was observed during the warmer months showing significant correlation with water temperature. High abundance of June was related to the occurrence of adult F. gymnauchen. A large number of individuals and great biomass was collected in August and September, a period of high abundance in juveniles of the seasonal species such as S. japonica, K. punctatus and S. zunasi. Temperature and habitat occupation according to life history of the dominant species might be the primary factors of the marked seasonality of the surf zone fish populations in the study area.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.340-348
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• 1997

Sledge net samples were taken over the neap and spring tide cycles in January 1993 from the bottom and surface of 1 m depth and at the water's edge in the sandy shore surf zone of Dolsando, southern Korea. Zonation pattern of three dominant gammarid amphipods was compared. The amphipods were more abundant on the bottom and at water's edge than in the surface. Average densities at both sites of Pontogeneia rostrata and Allorchestes angusta were higher during the neap tide than the spring tide, whereas that of Synchelidium lenorostralum was lower during the neap tide. P. rostrata migrated horizontally during the flooding and ebbing tides, but S. lenorostralum and A. angusta did not. Unlike other species, P. rostrata was significantly more abundant at night, suggesting its active nocturnal movement. During flooding tide, P. rostrata was not found on the shore above the mean sea level (MSL) during daytime, but found in 100 cm above MSL at night. Zonal distribution of P. rostrata which was restricted from MSL to 250 cm below MSL, however, did not vary with the day-night cycle during ebbing tide. S. lenorostralum and A. angusta were not found during flooding tide but ebbing tide. The upper distribution limit of the former was 150 cm below MSL, and the distribution of the latter ranged from MSL to 150 cm below MSL. The highest densities of P. rostrata, S. lenorostralum and A. angusta were 32, 26 and 3 ind. $m^{-2}$, respectively. We discussed the relationships between the distribution pattern of three dominant species of gammarid amphipods and their life styles in the sandy shore.