• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.182-193
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• 1997

The interaction of monochromatic incident waves with a horizontal flexible membrane is investigated in the context of two-dimensional linear hydro-elastic theory. First, analytic diffraction and radiation solutions for a submerged impermeable horizontal membrane are obtained. Second, the theoretical prediction was compared with a series of experiments conducted in a two-dimensional wave tank at Texas A & M University. The measured reflection and transmission coefficients reasonably follow the trend of predicted values. Using the developed computer program, the performance of surface-mounted or submerged horizontal membrane wave barriers is tested with various system parameters and wave characteristics. It is found that the properly designed horizontal flexible membrane can be an effective wave barrier.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.28-33
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• 2008

From the 1997 to January, 2004, a groin 156m long was constructed at the mouth of the Heoya river-mouth as a protection and barrier. To understand the changes to Jinha beach from the blockade of the river mouth, several aerial photographs, etc., were compared, which showed that the changes were significant. Comparing these results to the state of the area before construction of the groin, the blockade of the river was relaxed, but the formation of the tombolo, in the middle groin area was accelerated and the total Jinha beach erosion and especially the erosion of the southern part of Jinha beach was developed. But according to statements by residents and some current documents, the blockade of the Heoya-river mouth is still underway at the surrounding areas of the groin and chronic dredged sand has been used for littoral nourishment at the northern part of the middle groin and on Jinha beach. The result of numerical simulation based on the present state shows that if this sort of dredging is stopped, the sand accumulation will progress near the river mouth groin and the existing tombolo at the middle groin will progress to the north and severe erosion will occur at the southern coastline near the middle groin and the farthest southern part of Jinha beach, and Jinha beach itself will experience a gradual erosion. The main reason for these erosions should be the typhoons that are happening during the summer season. To provide protection from these kinds of undesirable erosions, a total of 23 numerical simulations have been done. It has been shown that submerged breakwaters at the front area of the beach will be efficient to protect from main beach erosion, but there should be alternative proposals for the influence of the river mouth blockade.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.209-220
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• 2019

Even though the scale of hard structures for beach stabilization should carefully be determined such that these structures do not interrupt the great yearly circulation process of beach sediment in which the self-healing ability of natural beach takes places, massive hard structures such as the submerged breakwater of wide-width are frequently deployed as the beach stabilization measures. On this rationale, asymmetric ripple mat by Irie et al. (1994) can be the alternatives for beach stabilization due to its small scale to replace the preferred submerged breaker of wide-width. The effectiveness of asymmetric ripple mat is determined by how effectively the vortices enforced at the contraction part of flow area over the mat traps the sediment moving toward the offshore by the run-down. In order to verify this hypothesis, we carry out the numerical simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equation and the physically-based morphology model. Numerical results show that the asymmetric ripple mat effectively capture the sediment by forced vortex enforced at the apex of asymmetric ripple mat, and bring these trapped sediments back to the beach, which has been regarded to be the driving mechanism of beach stabilization effect of asymmetric ripple mat.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.2170-2174
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• 2008

기후상승으로 해수면의 상승으로 인해 삼면이 바다로 둘러싸인 지형적 특성을 가진 우리나라 연안에 파도로부터 시설물의 보호가 중요한 요인으로 꼽히고 있다. 파의 에너지를 저감하여 연안에 위치한 시설물 보호에 많은 연구가 진행되고 있다. 여기서 다루게 될 수중방파제와 다공성 소파장치는 반사와 수심의 변화에 따른 분산효과로 입사파의 에너지 감소를 통해 연안에 위치한 구조물과 배후시설에 대한 피해를 줄이는데 주목적이 있다. 사다리꼴 수중방파제의 전 후면의 기울기를 변화시키며 장주기파의 입사파와 투과파에 대한 연구가 Chang과 Liou(2004)에 의해 연구되었고, 수직 다공성 소파장치의 두께를 변화하며 반사계수와의 상관 관계에 대한 연구가 Madsen(1983)에 의해 진행되었다. 본 연구에서는 해석해를 통해 수중방파제와 다공성 소파장치가 있는 경우에 투과파와 소파장치 전 후면에서의 처오름 높이의 변화에 대해 알아보고, 그에 따른 관계를 알아보고자 한다. 구간은 각각 수심이 일정한 지역과 변화하는 지역, 다공성 소파제가 있는 지역으로 설정하여 각 구간마다 해석해를 적용하여 파고를 측정하였다. 측정된 파고를 이용하여 투과율은 수중방파제를 통과한 입사파와 투과파의 관계를 통해 측정할 수 있다. 수중방파제를 투과한 파는 다공성 소파장치를 통과하면서 파고가 급감하는 현상을 다공성 소파장치 전 후면에서 측정되는 파고를 통해 알 수 있다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.181-189
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• 2000

A weakly nonlinear mild-slope equation has been derived directly from the continuity equation with the aid of the Galerkin's method. The equation is combined with the momentum equations defined at the mean water level. A single component model has also been obtained in terms of the surface displacement. The linearized form is completely identical with the time-dependent mild-slope equation proposed by Smith and Sprinks(1975). For the verification purposes of the present nonlinear model, the degenerate forms were compared with Airy(1845)'s non-dispersive nonlinear wave equation, classical Boussinesq equation, andsecond¬order permanent Stokes waves. In this study, the present nonlinear wave equations are discretized by the approximate factorization techniques so that a tridiagonal matrix solver is used for each direction. Through the comparison with physical experiments, nonlinear wave model capacity was examined and the overall agreement was obtained.

• Journal of Environmental Impact Assessment
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.179-187
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• 2010

A costal improvement project is designed for preventing disasters on the coast, improving costal environment, and promoting costal functions, so it is different from the one for developing coasts. However, the costal improvement project also affects the surrounding environment and it may damage the costal environment in some cases. In line with this, this study was carried out to provide the guideline to the review on environmental conditions, which should be performed in the stage of establishing the plan for a costal improvement project, so that the influence affecting marine environment can be reduced and more efficient coastal project can be planned. The costal improvement project is different in the degree of affecting the costal environment according to kinds, scales, and regions. Accordingly, in this study the state of the coastal improvement project and involved problems were analyzed. The prior environmental review system was divided into a seawall-installation project, a marine construction such as the installation of submerged breakwater and jetties, and a project for creating water-friendly coast including a park without marine landfill. The main items for reviewing these specific projects were presented.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.43-64
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• 1992

This study discusses the interacting with deep water waves approaching from deep water based on the linear wave theory and steep sloping sea bottom floor by the numerical procedure. The results of particular interest are particle velocity and acceleration in x, y, z direction wave height amplification factor reflection coefficient and dimensionless pressure distribution on the steep sloping bottom with respect to the various incident wave angle. The wave loads relative to various bottom slopes, incident wave angles and wave periods on submerged breakwater and pipe are represented in comparison with mild sloping bottom the wave load parameters on the steep sloping bottom seemed to be influenced by variation of incident wave angle. In general the particle velocities and accelerations in x, y, z directions on the steep sloping bottom represented larger value or about two than those on the mild sloping bottom according to incident wave angle. However, the wave height amplification factors did not show distinct difference, but the slight variation with respect to the various incident angle showed on mild sloping bottom. The reflection coefficient increased with respect to increase of the incident angle on the steep sloping bottom the results also indicate that the very steep sloping beach produces a rather substantial amount of reflection as we expected. No significant variation of wave pressure was shown on the steep sloping bottom but it represented a certain amount of variation on the mild sloping bottom according to the various incident wave angle. The analysis at the OTEC site also showed similar results.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.205-205
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 심해 선형파 조건에서 수중 투과성 방파제 주변의 유속장에 대해 nonhomogeneous Riemann-Hilbert problem을 이용한 해석해 및 수치해를 도출하고, 이를 반사계수와 투과계수를 산정하는 데에 활용한다. 여러 개의 얇은 투과성 판이 일렬로 배열되어 수중에 고정되어있고 규칙파가 작용하는 경우, Riemann-Hilbert problem을 정의할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 얇은 판으로 이루어진 수중 방파제에 대한 homogeneous Riemann-Hilbert problem을 푸는 것을 넘어, 투과성 판으로 이루어진 수중 방파제에 대해 nonhomogeneous Riemann-Hilbert problem을 정의하고, 이에 대해 무한경계조건과 판 근처에서의 유속장 경계조건을 이용해 해석해를 유도하였다. 투과성 방파제의 경우 permeable boundary를 가지므로 제시한 상황은 기하학적 비선형성을 지닌다. 이에 대해 투수성을 기초로 미소 매개변수를 정의하고, 섭동법(perturbation method)을 이용해 유속장에 대한 leading order solution과 first order solution을 도출하였다. Leading order solution은 Evans (1970) 등의 선행연구에서 제시한 해와의 비교를 통해 그 타당성을 검증하였고, First order solution을 이용해 반사계수와 투과계수를 산정하여 방파제의 투수성이 유속장에 미치는 영향을 고려하였다. 아울러 수치해를 도출하여 해석해의 결과와 비교 및 분석하였다. 본 연구에서 제시한 해석해는 방파제에 가해지는 힘을 산정하는 등 다양한 방향으로 활용 가능하며, 향후 수치해나 실험값을 비교, 검증하기 위한 기초 자료로써 활용될 수 있다.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.439-455
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• 2012

Coupled wave induced current modeling system(WIC) was developed from combining with the nearshore spectral wave model, SWAN, the wave induced force model, WIF, and the flow model, EFDC. The reasonable results were obtained from WIC modeling system. The ratio of the wave height calculated with respect to refraction and diffraction effects over submerged spherical shoal was occurred approximately 1~5 % errors compared to Goda(2000)'s result. The radiation stress suggested by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart(1960), the stresses due to rollers in breaking waves proposed by Dally and Osiecki(1994), and Kim(2004)'s new spreading approach instead of the previous lateral mixing approach were added to calculate wave induced force. The results of the WIC modeling system show good agreement with Nishimura et al.(1985)'s laboratory measurements and better than Kim(2004)'s 2 dimensional depth averaged numerical computations for a plane beach with detached breakwater. The present flow field computed agrees reasonably well with the measured flow field. The relative merit of WIF model in WIC modeling system is unconditional stable for time increment.