• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.39 no.6
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• pp.769-777
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• 2019

Low crested coastal structures such as detached breakwaters and submerged breakwaters (artificial reefs) have been commonly used as coastal protection measures. The armour units of these structures are unstable than those in non-overtopped structure cases. The stability of low crested structures armoured by rock has been suggested in existing studies. In this study, the stability of Tetrapods armour units on theses structures has been investigated using two-dimensional hydraulic model tests. The effect of wave steepness and freeboard on the armour stability on crest, front, and the rear slope has been investigated. Armour units were mostly damaged near the upper part of the seaward slope and the crest of the seaward side. From the experimental data, the new empirical formula for the stability coefficients of the Tetrapods was proposed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.137-151
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• 1991

The motion of two-dimensional floating breakwaters with rectangular clots-section which are moored tautly in shallow water has been analyzed using a velocity potential matching method in which the fluid region is devided into sub-regions and then unknown coefficients of velocity potentials are determined from the continuity condition of mass and momentum flux of fluid at imaginary boundaries between sub-regions. The method originally suggested by Ijima et al.(1972) for the motion of submerged body has been modified to analyze the motion of floating body. The total fluid region has been divided into three sub-regions : the incident wave region, the transmitted wave region and the region below the floating breakwater. The restoring forces induced by mooring lines which were ignored by Ijima et al.(1972) have been modeled as linear springs with the initial tension effects. This method has been verified through the comparions with results from hydraulic expriments. Applications to various conditions of floating breakwater have been performed.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.142-149
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• 2019

In this study, the past erosion history and current status in the CHUNG-UI beach of Eulwang-dong, Jung-gu, Incheon-Si, South Korea were investigated and analyzed the wave with wave-induced current to investigate the causes of coastal erosion. As a result, the significant wave height ($H_{1/3}$) was in the range of 0.07~1.57 m and the mean value was 0.21 m. The maximum wave height ($H_{max}$) was in the range of 0.02-4.76m and the mean value was 0.27m. The vertical wave height and cycles were estimated through numerical model experiments of wave transformation. The 50-year frequency design wave height ranged from 0.82m to 3.75m. As a result of the experiment of wave-induced current, wave-induced current in the CHUNG-UI beach was decreased after the installation of the Detached breakwater and the Jetty. On the other hand, when the crest elevation was increased up to 5 m, there was no significant change, but when the crest elevation was increased to 8m, strong wave-induced current occurred around the submerged breakwaters due to lowered depth of water. In addition, the main erosion of the CHUNG-UI beach is due to the intensive invasion of the wave characteristics coming from the outer sea into the white sandy beach. The deformation of the wave centered on the front of the sandy beach caused additional longshore currents flowing parallel to the sandy beach and rip currents in the transverse direction, thus confirming that the longshore sediment was moved out of the front and out of the sea. The results of this study can be used as preliminary data for the recovery of the sand and the selection of efficient erosion prevention facilities.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.28-33
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• 2008

From the 1997 to January, 2004, a groin 156m long was constructed at the mouth of the Heoya river-mouth as a protection and barrier. To understand the changes to Jinha beach from the blockade of the river mouth, several aerial photographs, etc., were compared, which showed that the changes were significant. Comparing these results to the state of the area before construction of the groin, the blockade of the river was relaxed, but the formation of the tombolo, in the middle groin area was accelerated and the total Jinha beach erosion and especially the erosion of the southern part of Jinha beach was developed. But according to statements by residents and some current documents, the blockade of the Heoya-river mouth is still underway at the surrounding areas of the groin and chronic dredged sand has been used for littoral nourishment at the northern part of the middle groin and on Jinha beach. The result of numerical simulation based on the present state shows that if this sort of dredging is stopped, the sand accumulation will progress near the river mouth groin and the existing tombolo at the middle groin will progress to the north and severe erosion will occur at the southern coastline near the middle groin and the farthest southern part of Jinha beach, and Jinha beach itself will experience a gradual erosion. The main reason for these erosions should be the typhoons that are happening during the summer season. To provide protection from these kinds of undesirable erosions, a total of 23 numerical simulations have been done. It has been shown that submerged breakwaters at the front area of the beach will be efficient to protect from main beach erosion, but there should be alternative proposals for the influence of the river mouth blockade.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.60-68
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• 2017

In this study, we analyzed the real time video image obtained from the video monitoring system to grasp the shoreline, beach width, and area change of Haeundae beach. The video monitoring techniques enabled continuous monitoring for a long period at a much lower cost than general survey methods. It was possible to grasp quantitative beach variation characteristics of Haeundae beach through image acquisition, rectification, and image processing of video images. According to the monitoring results, the erosion rate of Haeundae beach in spring and summer was -19.8% in 2014 and -6.7% in 2015. The erosion rate in 2016 was -6.4%, which showed that the erosion rate in spring and summer continued to decrease. In particular, the influence of the erosion at the time of typhoon CHABA was revealed to be smaller than in the past. It can be concluded that these variations were due to beach width expansion by beach nourishment and the installation of submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.498-504
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• 2016

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the $5km{\times}2.5km$ model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2-1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4-1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1995

In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.296-304
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• 2010

The shoreline change caused by the construction of shore protection structures are discussed based on the example of Youngrang coast, Sokcho where the coastal erosion control system(CECS), three artificial headlands and two submerged breakwaters are being constructed. The study qualitatively analyzed the shoreline changes of Youngrang coast using available satellite/aerial photographs and camera photographs taken during the construction period of 6 years since 2002 for the artificial headlands construction. The main results from the study are as following. (1) Before the installation of the middle artificial headland, longshore drifts along Youngrang coast are transported in the NW-SE direction according to the seasonally different wave characteristics. (2) During the CECS construction the shoreline is continuously changed by altering the local longshore drift budget. Especially, the middle artificial headland induces considerable change of shoreline by blocking the sediment supply from the southern pocket beach to the northern pocket beach and by accelerating the sediment accretion at the wave shadow zone behind its head. It induces the asymmetry on the net longshore drift causing the significant erosion at the center of the southern pocket beach. (3) The study demonstrates that serious unintended erosion/accretion problem are possibly occurred due to local changes on the wave transformation and the sediment transport by the construction of coastal erosion control system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.594-604
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• 2021

To evaluate the causes of beach erosion in Sinji-Myeongsasimni Beach, external forces, such as tides, tidal currents, and waves, were observed seasonally from March 2019 to March 2020, and the surface sediments were analyzed for this period. In addition, the shoreline positions and beach elevations were regularly surveyed with a VRS GPS and fixed-wing drone. From these field data, the speed of the tidal currents was noted to be insufficient, but the waves were observed to af ect the deformation of the beach. As the beach is open to the southern direction, waves of heights over 1 m were received in the S-SE direction during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Large waves with heights over 2 m were observed during typhoons in summer and fall. Because of the absence of typhoons for the previous two years from July 2018, the beach area over datum level (DL) as of July 2018 was greater by 30,138m² compared with that of March 2019, and the beach area as of March 2020 decreased by 61,210m² compared with that of March 2019 because of four typhoon attacks after July 2018. The beach volume as of March 2019 decreased by 5.4% compared with that of July 2018 owing to two typhoons, and the beach volume as of September 2019 decreased by 7.3% because of two typhoons during the observation year. However, the volume recovered slightly by about 3% during fall and winter, when there were no high waves. According to the sediment transport vectors by GSTA, the sediments were weakly influxed from small streams located at the center of the beach; the movement vectors were not noticeable at the west beach site, but the westward sediment transport under the water and seaward vectors from the foreshore beach were prominently observed at the east beach site. These patterns of westward sediment vectors could be explained by the angle between the annual mean incident wave direction and beach opening direction. This angle was inclined 24° counterclockwise with the west-east direction. Therefore, the westward wave-induced currents developed strongly during the large-wave seasons. Hence, the sand content is high in the west-side beach but the east-side beach has been eroded seriously, where the pebbles are exposed and sand dune has decreased because of the lack of sand sources except for the soiled dunes. Therefore, it is proposed that efforts for creating new sediment sources, such as beach nourishment and reducing wave heights via submerged breakwaters, be undertaken for the eastside of the beach.