• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.31-37
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• 2018

Oil/water (O/W) nanoemulsions are effective vehicles to change the permeability of the skin. In this study, we focused on the preparation and characterization of nanoemulsion which serve as colloidal carriers for the dermal application of ceramide IIIB (CIIIB) and stratum corneum (SC) lipids such as cholesterol, and palmitic acid. In order to optimize the nanoemulsions, emulsification process conditions were conducted with regard to droplet size, nanoemulsion stability, and solubility of CIIIB. A decrease in droplet size was observed through emulsification temperature of $80^{\circ}C$ and phase inversion composition (PIC) method. CIIIB has low solubility in oil and water. When the concentration of CIIIB was increased, the droplet size of nanoemulsion was increased. When Lipoid S75-3 was added to the oil phase, the solubility of CIIIB increased, indicating some interactions shown in DSC measurements. CIIIB and SC lipids could be successfully incorporated in nanoemulsions without crystallization or physical instability. In conclusion, a stable nanoemulsion containing the SC lipids could be effective as an efficient moisturizing system for skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.113-119
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• 2015

The measurement of hydration level in the surface layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC), gives important information on the biophysical properties and function of the skin barrier such as softness, flexibility, and healthiness of the skin. But it is difficult to measure a consistent hydration level from a sample to another sample due to individual variations and environmental changes. The aim of this study was to evaluate objective hydration after using various products in the SC. The SC Hydration was measured by capacitance (Corneometer$^{(R)}$, C+K, Germany) on the ventral site of forearm from 40 healthy volunteers. The skin surface was chronologically measured immediately after application of the test products and 3 and 6 hours later. We analyzed the averages of five measurements of each site and used the hydration increase rate for correction on untreated site variation. We found that most polyols including glycerol and butylenes glycol influenced directly the hydration increase rate in the SC previously. In this study, glycerol was used to prepare the standard products from 0 to 20 percents and applied to the same volunteers. The individual standard curve showed linear relation to glycerol concentrations. Based on the the standard curve, hydration of SC was converted into hydration increase rate to glycerol concentrations. The converted glycerol concentrations of products were repetitive and reproducible. In addition, the individual standard curve was used to relate the skin type of each individual. These results suggest that the hydration of the SC standardized regardless of external variation and individual skin condition can explain detailed skin state variation. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with other methods for noninvasive measurement.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.4
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• pp.447-453
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• 2018

Acetyl hexapeptide 8 (AH8) is a synthetic peptide for anti-wrinkle cosmetics ingredient. It was developed as a mimetic of botox, patternd after N -terminal end of the protein synatosomal-associated protein 25 (SNAP25), a substrate of botulinum toxin. While AH8 has good efficacy and safety profiles, the permeation through the skin is poor. Therefore, we tried to enhance the transdermal delivery of AH8 by using of hyaluonic acid (HA), a linear polysaccharide of N-acetyl glucosamine and glucuronic acid. To investigate the effect of HA on AH8 penetration, we analyzed paraffin sections of $Micropig^{(R)}$ skin. Fluorescence labeled AH8 was applied to micropig skin with or without HA. The absorption of AH8 was limited to the stratum corneum (SC) without HA. On the other hand, AH8 penetrated to the dermis with HA. Especially, low molecular weight HA (5 kDa) was most efficient compared to 500 kDa HA and 2000 kDa HA. Experiments using fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy revealed that lower molecular weight HA had a tendency to increase the fluidity of the SC lipids more, which means enhancing the skin penetration. Therefore, HA could be expected to enhance the anti-wrinkle effect of AH8.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.355-364
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• 2023

Lips have a unique desquamation process and moisturizing properties that are structurally different from ordinary skin. In particular, the turnover cycle of the stratum corneum is fast and the outermost stratum corneum is thin, so the amount of keratin is relatively high, and there are no skin appendages, so it is very vulnerable to maintaining moisture. In this study, we set three targets for lip care : stratum corneum, moisture, and barrier, and aimed to identify the potential of three target-specific ingredients for lips improvement. We confirmed the exfoliating, moisturizing, and barrier improvement efficacy of three target-specific ingredients which also have mild exfoliating effect. Specifically, we verified that Bacillus clausii extract improved skin exfoliation, gluconolactone improved skin moisture retention, and serine reinforced skin barrier function. To test the in vivo efficacy of the complex composed of three target-specific ingredients on the human lips, the lip balm manufactured with non-irritating range of concentration was applied, and we confirmed that it was effective in improving lip exfoliation·moisturizing·elasticity·wrinkles. Consequently, it was confirmed that the beauty and health indicators of the lips could be improved through the exfoliation-moisturization-barrier care of the lips and these ingredients were applied to LG H&H LIPCERIN products.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Veterinary Clinics Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.114-114
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• 2006

• Toxicological Research
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.129-139
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• 1991

Preventive effect of red ginseng saponin on experimentally-induced hyperkeratosis was investigated by ultrastructural observation, skin weight and epidermal lipid analysis. Hexadecane increased skin weight per unit area and epidermal lipids, free fatty acids, cholesterol and triglyceride in guinea pig skin. Topical application of ginseng saponin reduced these hyperkeratotic responses regradless of the concentration and the purity of ginseng saponin. Ultrastructurally, lipids and empty space-containing multiple horny cells were piled and nuclear remnants, desmosome, desmosomal bodies, tight junction were shown in the stratum corneum of hexadecane-treated skin.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.498-498
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• 2003

Sphingolipids are important structural components of the stratum corneum lipids and serve the epidermal permeability barrier function. Recent investigations on biological activities of sphingolipids have revealed that they have a number of important biological functions in the cell such as cell proliferation and differentiation, anti-inflammation, mediation of signal transduction and many more.(omitted)

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.161-164
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• 2002

Gentisic acid is a skin-whitening agent which inhibits the tyrosinase activity, an essential enzyme in the process of biological synthesis of melanin. Since melanin is synthesized in melanocytes located between the viable epidermis and dermis layer, drug amount delivered into the epidermis/dermis layer can provide valuable information for the biological effect of skin-whitening agents. The purpose of this study was to prepare the gentisic acid patches with 2% dodecylamine as enhancer, and to observe the in vitro skin permeation and in vivo skin deposition of gentisic acid. Gentisic acid in DuroTak 87-2510 patch formulation permeated across hairless mouse skin at the rate of $40.79\;{\mu}g/cm^2/hr$. In vivo study showed that the gentisic acid amount in both the stratum corneum and the viable epidermis/dermis increased with the increase of application time. The amount of gentisic acid in the stratum corneum was higher than that in the epidermis/dermis layer, and was expected to provide a reservoir effect even after removing the patches. Thus, the patch formulation seems to be useful for the topical delivery of skin-whitening agent into the epidermis/dermis layer, the target site.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.387-412
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• 2003

Influence of gelatinase on basement membrane (BM) structure was investigated by using a skin equivalent (SE) model. The results showed that (1) gelatinase produced by cells degraded the BM and (2) the addition of matrix metalloproteinase-specific inhibitor to the SE medium accelerated the formation of BM structure, indicating that gelatinase is involved in BM impairment. The activity of gelatinase was also studied in healthy human facial skin tissues. The result of in situ zymography revealed gelatinase activity around the basal layer of the epidermis, where BM integrity was severely compromised. Therefore, this enzyme was suggested to be associated with BM decomposition in human facial skin. To assess the behavior of gelatinase in stratum corneum (SC) non-invasively, an immunological study was performed. Since positive immunostaining of pro-gelatinase B was observed in SC stripped from sun-exposed skin, whereas no positive staining detected in SC of non-irradiated skin, gelatinase in the epidermis could be non-invasively detected by measuring gelatinase in SC. Gelatinase in SC of healthy female volunteers was monitored using a special film that sensitively and conveniently detects gelatinase. Ninetr percent of SC from facial skin (l00 women, 40's-50's) was gelatinase-positive. On the other hand, SC from non-irradiated skin was negative. These results strongly suggest that (1) gelatinase is constantly produced in the facial epidermis of most middle-aged woman during their daily life, and (2) the enzyme might be involved in the aging-related degeneration of both BM and the matrix fibers of the upper layer of the dermis, acting as a very important aging factor. Strong inhibitory activity against gelatinase was found in turmeric extract and identified curcumin as the major ingredient. Topical application of cream containing turmeric extract significantly decreased the number of gelatinase-positive SC clusters in human facial skins. These results indicated that turmeric is an effective ingredient to prevent skin from photo aging by suppressing chlonically upregulated gelatinase activity by UV and to improve skin condition.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.321-327
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• 2014

Collagen pentapeptide (Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, KTTKS) and its palmitoylated derivative (pal-KTTKS) have received a great deal of attention as cosmeceutical ingredients for their anti-wrinkle effects. The objective of this study was to evaluate stability and permeability of KTTKS and pal-KTTKS in hairless mouse skin. In this study, a liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric method was developed for the quantification of pal-KTTKS, and used for stability and permeability studies. Stability studies were performed using skin extracts and homogenates. Both KTTKS and pal-KTTKS were rapidly degraded, but pal-KTTKS was more stable than KTTKS. When protease inhibitors were added, the stability of both compounds (KTTKS and pal-KTTKS) improved significantly. In the skin permeation study, neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS was detected in the receptor solution, which indicates that neither compound could permeate through the full-thickness hairless mouse skin in the experimental conditions of this study. While KTTKS was not detected in any of the skin layers (the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis), pal-KTTKS was observed in all skin layers: $4.2{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/cm^2$ in the stratum corneum, $2.8{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/cm^2$ in the epidermis, and $0.3{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/cm^2$ in the dermis. In conclusion, this study indicated that pal-KTTKS had greater stability and permeability than that of un-modified KTTKS, and may be a useful anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmeceutical agent.