This study is to understand the actual condition of design and material of peanut-shaped diaper with looking at the types and characteristics of baby cloth diapers and domestic peanut-shaped diapers registered in the Patent Office. Furthermore, it is to suggest the basic data for designing more functional and comfortable cloth diapers. Here are the research result on the actual condition of design and material of baby cloth diapers. Firstly, 11 cloth diapers registered in the Patent Office can be divided into panty-shaped and straight line-shaped diapers. There are 7 kinds of panty-shaped cloth diapers which satisfy both the convenience of a disposable diaper and sanitation of a cloth diaper, and 4 kinds of straight line-shaped cloth diapers that minimize the weaknesses of existing cloth diapers. Secondly, domestic peanut-shaped cloth diapers can be divided into peanut-shaped, inserted, winged, velcro-attached diapers. Among 23 kinds of peanut-shaped cloth diapers from 16 companies, there are 12 kinds of peanut-shaped diapers which consist of layers of cloth to make peanut shape. There are 6 kinds of inserted diapers that insert extra diapers or handkerchiefs in between two sheets of cloth diapers and 3 kinds of winged diapers designed to shorten drying time with sawing only one side of several layered sheets. Also, there are 2 kinds of velcro-attached diapers that are removable according to the amount of excreta. Commonly used materials are cotton woven of diamond jacquard and knit of diamond Hole Stitch or Plain Stitch. And for handing the edge of diaper, the method of wrapping up the edge with cotton woven or knit bias is used.
Resistance to anoikis, a cell-detachment induced apoptosis, is one of the malignant phenotypes which support tumor metastasis. Molecular mechanisms underlying the establishment of this phenotype require further investigation. This study aimed at exploring protein expression profiles associated with anoikis resistance of a metastatic breast cancer cell. Cell survival of suspension cultures of non-metastatic MCF-7 and metastatic MDA-MB-231 cells were compared with their adherent cultures. Trypan blue exclusion assays demonstrated a significantly higher percentage of viable cells in MDA-MB-231 than MCF-7 cell cultures, consistent with analysis of annexin V-7-AAD stained cells indicating that MDA-MB-231 possess anti-apoptotic ability 1.7 fold higher than MCF-7 cells. GeLC-MS/MS analysis of protein lysates of MDA-MB-231 and MCF-7 cells grown under both culture conditions identified 925 proteins which are differentially expressed, 54 of which were expressed only in suspended and adherent MDA-MB-231 but not in MCF-7 cells. These proteins have been implicated in various cellular processes, including DNA replication and repair, transcription, translation, protein modification, cytoskeleton, transport and cell signaling. Analysis based on the STITCH database predicted the interaction of phospholipases, PLC and PLD, and 14-3-3 beta/alpha, YWHAB, with the intrinsic and extrinsic apoptotic signaling network, suggesting putative roles in controlling anti-anoikis ability. MDA-MB-231 cells grown in the presence of inhibitors of phospholipase C, U73122, and phospholipase D, FIPI, demonstrated reduced ability to survive in suspension culture, indicating functional roles of PLC and PLD in the process of anti-anoikis. Our study identified intracellular mediators potentially associated with establishment of anoikis resistance of metastatic cells. These proteins require further clarification as prognostic and therapeutic targets for advanced breast cancer.
This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.
This study was aimed at analyzing a characteristics of the sewing machines and analyzing the effective sewing time in the garment manufacture process, therefore to obtain the basic data concerned with the sewing. operation standardization. The two methods were experimented. First, two garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected for the analyzing the sewing speed of the sewing operator for the optimized sewing speed using the equipment of Digital Tachometer HT4100. Second, five garment factories established in Seoul and Geonggi province were randomly selected to analyze the required time data to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine which was used in the sewing factories. The results are divided into 3 categories as follows; 1) Survey results for the optimized sewing speed : The sewing operations of 10~20 cm range were most frequently selected in seam constructions in Korean sewing factories, and the sewing speed of 2,500 R.P.M was most used; 2) Required time to reach the fixed sewing speed using the lock stitch sewing machine : The mean of required time to the fixed sewing speed of 2.500 R.P.M was 3.5 second, and the mean of the real-sewing length during the 3.5 second was 43.8 cm ; 3) Analysis of the optimized sewing speed calculated using these results : The optimized sewing speed for the sewing manufacturers of the upward of 43.8 cm was 2,500 R.P.M. and for the sewing manufacturers of the below of 42.2 cm, the optimized sewing speed was 2.450 R.P.M.
This study was classified according to types added ‘Seon(선)’ to the dress of Chosun Dynasty and analyzed them into formative characteristics. the results were as follows ; 1, ‘Seon’ is divided into three types of the standard, the decoration and the application. According to three types, the types of the standard are subdivided into Jemul Seon(the shape put the right side into lining) and the different color Seon. The types of the decoration are subdivided into Stitch, Surround, Gild and Embroidery form. And the types of the application are subdivided into Piping, Fur, Braid and Metallic form. 2, It showed as the different color Seon and Jemul Seon in the case of men dress and as the different color Seon and Gild form in that of women dress. 3, Its application showed in the ceremonial dress and ‘Po(袍)’ types of men dress and in the ceremonial dress and as accessories of women dress. 4, It was used as complementary color tone in both men and women dress. 5, It was used as its surface in men dress and as its reverse side in women dress according to Seon of style. 6, It was used as ‘Sa(紗)’ in men dress and as ‘Dan(緞)’ in women dress according to Seon of texture. 7, Seon of an aesthetic characteristics was distinguished according to Seon of forms, that is to say, Jemul Seon standed for calm beauty, Two color Seon standed for dynamic beauty, Stitch, Surround and Piping form standed for delicate beauty, Gild and Embroidery form standed for brilliant beauty and Fur, Braid and Metallic form standed for solid beauty.
The purpose of this study is not only to trace the examples of 'Chesanja' from the texts and artifacts, but also to restore the terminology of the lost traditional Joseon embroidery technique. 'Chesanja' came on Mongolia and Yuan period affected embroidery techniques of the neighboring countries. Therefore, this study will focus on investigate the process of changing 'Chesanja' into Guya(Goya) through ${\ll}Barktonsa{\gg}$ the foreign language transcriptions of the Chosun dynasty, and examine the generation, fashion, and destruction of this technique with the social technical usage. Around the 16th century of the Joseon Dynasty, 'Chesanja' had been actively used as a decorative techniques to dairy products as well as a Buddhist memorial goods embroidered. Accor- dingly, in the "Beonnyeok-Baktongsa"(1515) appeared together written records with 'Chesanja' 'Gwiyeo[귀여]' the Eonhae(Korean annotation) only had emerged in the Joseon Dynasty. It was still a technique to decorate the edges of royal pillow in the mid-17th century. And we have checked from the text "Baktongsaeonhae"(1677) also. Despite this by the mid-18th century, the term in "Baktongsa-sinseok"(1765) and "Baktongsa-sinseok-eonhae"(1765) had disappeared. This phenomenon suggests the possibility that the production and utilization of 'Chesanja' required the sophisticated process for the ruling class had been declined with the custom of embroidery based on the gradation by colorful threads as the preferred technique. Therefore, 'Chesanja' and 'Gwiyeo'[귀여] disappeared from the records but they can be found in the artifacts of the royal family of 19th century. So Chesanja is calls Guya(Goya) and exists as unique technic only in the royal family.
This research focused on pattern adjustments of the stable knit garment for women. Fourteen different types of the knitted fabrics by 12 gauge, computerized flat bed machines were cut in as one half of the torso front, one half of the torso back, and one side of the sleeves for each of them. Guidelines such as the center front, the center back, the armhole, the bust-line, the waistline, the hip-line the hemline were basted on the torso patterns in the knitted fabrics. Also the grain-line, the elbow-line, and the hemline were basted on the one side of the sleeves in the same as above knitted fabrics. The torso patterns in the knitted fabrics were exhibited on the dress-forms on top of the torso patterns in Muslin, which also have the same guidelines drawn on. The distances between the guidelines on Muslin and those on the knitted fabrics for each set of the sample fabrics were measured every three days for two weeks. The fabric properties of the fourteen knitted fabrics such as fiber contents, stitch density both in the wale and course directions, weight, thickness, stretch & recovery, residual shrinkage, relaxation and drapability were laboratory tested for how these were related to finished appearance of 12 gauge, computerized flat knit garments and also in order to prove the fourteen knitted fabrics fall to a category of such as the stable knit. The results from the investigation revealed that six fabric properties such as stitch density, thickness, stretch recovery, residual shrinkage and relaxation were not so much significant factors as weight and drapability. In conclusion, fabric weight, and drapability of the fabric resulting from fiber contents were the cause of final appearance distortion of garment. When adapting patterns for stabilized, 12 gauge, computerized flat knitted fabrics, the fiber contents of the fabrics should be taken into consideration to reduce the production cost and produce better-fit garments.
This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.
The purpose of this research is to develop the design, pattern and size system of brief as a measurement garment in order to obtain more precise silhouettes and sizes of the body in 3D measurements. The results of this research are as follows: First, nylon/lycra materials which elasticity is equivalent to 18%(wale) and 27%(course), were selected as a material for briefs to minimize possible error in measurement and deformation of body shape caused by looseness or tightness in its measured parts. And T-back style design was selected, of which briefs neither deform human body nor cause overlapping or excessive tightness when was put on the measurement garment over it. Second, different darts for men and women were adopted into the pattern in consideration for the shape of hip. Third, the waist band of briefs was located between the waistline and abdominal girth line so that it didn't interfere with measurement, and using a wide band of 40mm minimized the tightness of the human body. In addition, the stitch lines and sewing procedure were simplified to minimize the deformation of body shape resulting from inseams and stitch lines. Finally, for the size of briefs, 6 cm intervals were set on the basis of the waist girth and 8 kinds for men and 6 kinds for women were selected in descending order of appearance rate by the interval sections. English T meaning T-back design and numbers representing the waist girth were marked in parallel for the name of size.
The use of standardized stitches in globalized apparel markets is becoming increasingly important. However, many apparel vendors still use disunified stitches, such as Japanese and English. This study analyzes the usage of clothing stitches of cut and sewn knit garment fabrication of small companies. The results of the analysis of 464 worksheets of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, of the 464 worksheets, only 4.31% are labeled as ISO 4915 No. Among the 1,399 stitches, only 3.15% were marked with the ISO 4915 No. Second, among 1,399 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401 was the most frequently used. Third, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was used the most; in addition, ISO 4915 No. 401, 301 and 304 were also frequently used. Fourth, in the case of the bottoms, the stitch with the highest frequency was ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by ISO 4915 No. 103 and 401, respectively. Fifth, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was most commonly used in hemlines and sleeve edges; in addition, in the case of the bottoms, ISO 4915 No. 406 and 103 were most commonly used as hemlines. In conclusion, it is important to use international standard stitches, especially for the most frequently used stitches. By using the standard stitches, the communication errors between production departments can be reduced and information can be accurately delivered.
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