• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.35-50
• /
• 2007

We performed the subjective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics used for S/S among fabrics as basis, five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yarns made by different twisting methods then, we did questionnaire survey targeting sixty females in the expert groups. Utilizing SPSS 12.0, correlation, ANOVA, Duncan, and Multidimensional Standard way were analyzed. The results are as following. First, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sense factor, in the 'drape sense', the acrylic/rayon blended knit was preferred as the most flexible, pliable, and elastic knit; in weight/bulk factor, the acrylic filament knit the most twisted was preferred as the least bulk, thin, cool and transparent knit; in 'surface depression sense' factor, A(F)W acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most haggard, straight, dry knit. Second, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sensibility factor, in the 'neatness' the acrylic filament hit was preferred as the most clean, neat and delightful knit; in the 'comfortableness', the acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most natural, stable, and comfortable knit. Third, according to the result of evaluating on preferred knits as the spring and summer, generally the acrylic filament twisted yarn knits were more preferred than the acrylic blended yarns. However the preference on the kinds of the acrylic twisted filament yarn showed that there is a little difference on the acrylic blended yarn knit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.2
• /
• pp.88-101
• /
• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.42-48
• /
• 2005

The effects of opening, carding, and repeated drawings on single fiber and bundle cotton characteristics were stud­ied by employing $Mantis^{\circledR}$, $AFIS^{\circledR}$ and HVI Testers. Some of the significant changes in single fiber properties were found to be due to process parameters as well as the changes in the fiber crimps, parallelness of fibers within HVI beards, and the actual changes in the tensile properties of the fibers. The study showed that the HVI test data taken just prior to spinning had the highest correlation with the yam tensile properties. Based on the study results, we point out the potential of HVI for future quality and process control in spinning by recommending a set of expanded HVI output that is more scientific and compre­hensive for the future control needs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Industry Convergence
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.27-33
• /
• 1999

Effects of spinning speed and draw ratio on structure and mechanical properties of PP filament. A The crystalline structure and mechanical properties of uniaxially deformed polypropylene filament has been examined by XRD, birefringence, UTM and density method. Uniaxially deformed PP filament was prepared of various spinning speeds (300, 600, 900m/min.) and draw ratio(x2, x3, x4). From the results of these studies, it found the following facts. Firstly, it was found that the crystallinity and crystallite size (110plane) of the samples were increased with increasing of spinning speed and draw ratio, especially, it was rapidly increased between as spun yarn and 2 times draw ratio. Secondly, birefringence value was increased with increasing of spinning speed and draw ratio. The mechanical properties of initial modulus, tensile strength were increased with increasing of spinning speed and draw ratio also, but the degree of elongation decreased as spinning speed and draw ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.910
• /
• pp.1282-1291
• /
• 2004

Kenaf was cultivated and harvested in large quantity in Cheju Island and Chinju, Kyungsangnamdo. It was chemically rotted with 3% NaOH for 60 minutes at 100$^{\circ}C$, neutralized using 1% acetic acid, washed and dried, and obtained 40kg of dry kenaf fiber. Kenaf 15/rayon 85, flax 15/rayon 85, and rayon 100% yam was spun and the physical characteristics were measured. Plain weave and twill weave fabrics were made using each of the above yarns as the filling yam. Cotton 100% yam was used as the warp yam in all fabrics. Kenaf/rayon blend yarns were higher in tenacity and elongation, lower in yam uniformity, higher in the number of nep than the flax/rayon blended yams. Kenaf/rayon blend fabric had higher tenacity and elongation compared to the flax/rayon blend fabric Kenaf/rayon blend fabric was most stiff in both plain weave and twill weave fabrics whereas drape characteristics was dependent upon the fabric structure of the kenaf/rayon blend and flax/rayon blend. There were little differences between the kenaf/rayon blend fabric and the flax/rayon blend fabric in the Kawabata physical measurements and the PHVs. The only drawback of kenaf fiber was it's surface roughness and it is expected that it can be improved by enzyme retting and mechanical bundle separation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.2
• /
• pp.296-305
• /
• 2017

Gallnuts are known to exert various pharmaceutical properties that include anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, and detoxifying effects. Gallnut extract is thought to be a particularly safe antimicrobial agent for textile application due to its natural origins. Hence, textiles were dyed with gallnut to develop multi-functional clothing material with no harmful effects. In this study, three kinds of cool touch woven fabrics, each comprised of 100% viscose rayon filament, viscose rayon filament/high absorption & quick dry (polyester) filament, and viscose rayon $filament/tencel^{(R)}$ spun yarn, were prepared and used as substrates for gallnut dyeing to especially develop functional cool touch textiles for summer clothing material. On the other hand, gallnut dyeing was conducted with mordanting with iron, lime or alum, which induced different colors on the dyed textiles. Dyed textiles were then investigated by SEM, FTIR, antibacterial test, and antioxidant test. Subsequently, gallnut dyed textiles indicated excellent antibacterial ability and deodorization activity regardless of mordant species. However, only gallnut dyed textiles mordanted with iron and alum showed significant antioxidant ability. In addition, the dyeing processes impair the cool touch feeling of the textiles by changing the micro structure of the textile surface.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.16-24
• /
• 1991

The textile fabric have the functions of sanitation, decoration, wearing style and washing in the practical use. Among various texitle fiber, silk has less utilities than synthetic fiber in practical use although silk has good benefits of the high quality. Thus no textile fiber, neither natural nor synthetic, has all the functions. In this sence, many blend yarns have been improved various functions of fabric. However, this has been disturbed with the problem of dyeing, especially in the case of blend fabric of silk. In this study, we dyed silk/PET blend fabric in one step useing one bath dyeing method by acid dyes/disperse dyes. The results of the experiments can be summarized as follows; 1) Yellow index of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ increased about 7.8 (color difference 4.5 NBS) and whiteness decrease about 5%. 2) Both elongation and tensile strength of silk fabric treated at $130^{\circ}C$ of pH 5-6 decreased about 10% and tensile strength of silk spun yarn treated at $60^{\circ}C$ of pH 10 have little changed. 3) While silk/PET blend frbric dyeing, silk soiling of disperse dyes causes from difference of dyeing rate and degree of silk soiling with dyes. 4) Fastness and soiling of silk/PET blend fabric dyed by one bath dyeing method of acid dyes/disperse dyes was same as two bath dyeing method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.31-40
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.8
• /
• pp.132-151
• /
• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Composites Research
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.91-100
• /
• 1999

The manufacture of high strength polyethylene(HSPE) tape yarns has been accomplished by a solid state processing(SSP) method as the compaction of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene(UHMWPE) powders and drawing of the compacted film under the melting point without any organic solvents. In this study, the characteristics of HSPE tape yarns produced by SSP which is desirable for production cost and environmental aspect were analyzed. As the results, tensile strengths of HSPE tape yarns increased with increasing the draw ratio and the fracture morphology of highly drawn HSPE tape yarns showed more fibrillar shape than the low drawn one. Interfacial shear strengths of HSPE tape yarns with vinylester resin increased by $O_2$ plasma treatment and maximum interfacial shear strength was obtained in the plasma treatment condition of 100W and 5min. In addition, mechanical properties of HSPE tape yarn reinforced composites were investigated and compared with those of the gel spun HSPE fiber reinforced composites.