• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.604-612
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• 2015

This study investigates preferred bicycle wear designs that can satisfy active senior consumers. A survey was conducted on 50-60's women who periodically rode bicycles. The results indicated a preference for slim designs and red colors. Jacket designs preferences were for a tight fit for size tolerance, stand collar style, and elastic band details for cuff styles. Pants design preferences were for a whole band waist belt type with a tight fit style such as leggings in pants silhouette, zipper details on the side line and ankle length. They also preferred styles with pads attached to underpants in the pad style and the part of the back waist in the pocket position. The survey showed four kinds of jacket design drawings on an ordinal scale rating. Results indicated a preference for set-in variation jackets with the red and gray color combination. Finally, we demonstrated bicycle wear design suggestions. The jacket applied different armhole line colors connected to the sleeve to make the waist slimmer; in addition, stretchable material helped improve armpit part functionality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.88-98
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• 2008

In order to improve the problems with obese women's ready-to-wear by age range, this study surveyed the actual clothing purchase and wearing of women in their 20s and 30s with normal and obese body types, and compared and analyzed their satisfaction with ready-to-wear by age and body type. First, for normal body types, both women in their 20s and 30s use department stores the most. Meanwhile, obese women in their 20s make most of their purchases at internet shopping malls, while those in their 30s mostly go to department stores. For criteria for purchasing clothing, normal women both in their 20s and 30s value design most whereas, obese women put size and fit before design regardless of their age. Normal women in their 20s and 30s both were most unsatisfied with standardized design because they could not find designs they wanted. Obese women in their 20s and 30s also showed disapproval of unvaried sizes, indicating a distinct difference in body types and age. As well, the study found that both normal and obese women wear casual style the most, followed by semi-formal style. Also, regarding the images they were seeking when wearing clothing, the normal women wanted to look fashionable, while obese women wanted to look slim, regardless of age. Both body-type groups generally like preferred semi loose-fits the most, followed by tight-fit. They however, dislike relaxed loose-fitting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.60-75
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• 2016

This research was conducted to understand the different circumstances for wearing shirts by adult males aged 20-39, and to provide this basic information to the shirt industry prior to developing new functional men's shirts. A total of 345 respondents participated in the survey. Most of questionnaire, frequency, mean and standard deviation were calculated and the differences between the 20s and 30s were analyzed by t-test or ${\chi}^2$ test. The results of the survey are as follows. Grading the satisfaction degree of their body parts, the respondents were relatively unsatisfied with their height, weight, and waist, abdominal and hip circumferences. Majority preferred department stores, discount stores and outlets for purchasing shirts. Many have never owned tailored shirts - men in 20's had less experience with tailoring than men in 30's. The foremost selection criterion for purchasing shirts was fit -during purchase, men in their 20's considered fit more important than men in their 30's. The most preferred unbuttoning of the top button when wearing shirts. For favored collar shapes with one button unbuttoned, the most valued collar angle and style was V-neck shape when unbuttoned, low collar band, collar with unopened collar, and stiff collars. Most shirt designs and details included slim fit, no dart in the front and one dart on the back. Men in 20's more preferred the no dart in the front and one tuck on the back, as compared to men in 30's. On the other hand, men in their 30's preferred one dart shirts than men in 20's. Regarding shirt bands and cuffs, one button and regular collar and one button cuffs with round angle design, were the most preferred, respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1454-1465
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• 2011

Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.55-65
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• 1998

Actually, Cyberpunk is a compound word joined by cybernetics, which was used in control theory, and punk, was symbolized as anti-culture. Today, however, the definition of the term has been extended by various fields, used in many meanings. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to apply the Cyberpunk concepts to understand today　s fashion because understanding of the present fashion is a means to interpret our culture. For this purpose, the phenomenon of Cyberpunk in fashion was subdivided into three factors material, color, and style. The results of the study were as follows : First, the materials used were techno material, special print by computer for future feeling and geometrical pattern, optical pattern to improve visual effects. Second, the colors mainly used were silver, black and white, bright color, and off-color of computer animation to present future-oriented feeling. Third, the general styles used were fit and slim, simple and liner, dualistic style to express future　s image. In conclusion, the phenomena of Cyberpunk in fashion were expressed in material, color and style of fashion. Cyberpunk fashion was evident in T-shirts, sweaters, jackets, or as items of ornamentation such as pins, pendants, belts, and earrings, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.791-801
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• 2012

We performed an assessment of wearing, purchasing, satisfaction, and the fit of brassieres according to body and breast type for college women to provide basic data on the manufacture of an ergonomic brassiere. The classifications of domed and conical breast type or projecting and conical breast type were unclear. Flat breast were dissatisfied with the shape of small and flat, and drooping breast were dissatisfied with the shape of big, projected, and drooping. In purchasing a brassiere, the majority of subjects were ignorant of their brassiere size, and over 80% of the subjects bought a brassiere without trying it on. Over 50% of those surveyed said they found it difficult to buy a well-fitted brassiere, particularly for the flat and drooping breast type. Over 70% of those surveyed wore a brassiere of 3/4 cup size, the slim body type wore a brassiere of 1/2 cup size; however, the obese body type wore a brassiere of full-cup size. The flat-breast or slim-body wore a brassiere of a thick pad type but projecting-breast or drooping breast wore brassiere of a thin pad type. Many of the subjects wore an unfitted brassiere in cup size and under bust size. In the classification of breast type, there were slight differences between the breast type that they recognized and the breast type that they were shown. There were distinctions in function, satisfaction, and fitness based on breast type. Therefore, the development of an ergonomic brassiere should considered the characteristics of breast type for fitness and comfort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women in the mid or second half period of their pregnancy according to the development figure of the body shell from a follow-up measurement. We here would like to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women constructed to fit better with their individual property in their figure and to help maintain the shape and beauty of the lower half of body and would compare it with two manufactured slacks pattern. The results of the study were as follows; 1. As the pregnancy proceeds, the height of natural-waist line went up spontaneously due to the projection of abdominal region, therefore, it was given darts at the front zipper part so that they could maintain a nice figure and to avoid possibility of feeling oppressed. To acquire a slimmer outfit, we made of the slacks-bottom narrower than the width at the knee line, and it worked out. 2. Sensory evaluation for appearance: According to the statistical of the result of 19items on the questionaire, all items showed significant difference(a$\leq$0.01) between the new and A(bunka) B(Kim's pattern) method slacks pattern, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted, to fit the shape of bodies properly and to get a visual effect to look slim.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 2021

This study investigated fabrics, washing and cares, design, pattern, subsidiary materials, and sewing methods with a focus on the functional outers using moisture-permeable waterproof fabric as a shell; in addition, each element was analyzed for differences depending on fabric type. The characteristics of 34 outers were investigated through labels, online product introductions, visual inspection, observations from two experts with more than 30 years experience and wear tests. Moisture-permeable waterproof fabrics used for the outer were classified into two types; in addition, the shell of the high-density fabric and the 2 & 3-layer fabrics had different characteristics. Various fabrics, detailed designs, and three-dimensional patterns suitable for each part of the human body were used to improve functionality. In addition, various subsidiary materials and sewing methods were used to form an organic relationship. The same washing and cares, patterns and subsidiary materials were used regardless of fabric type; however, the fabric type influenced the detailed design and sewing. The outers with high-density fabric had a loose fit, short placket, e-banded cuffs, lock-stitch, and lock-stitch+binding. However, the outer with 2 & 3 layer fabric had a slim fit, hood width adjustment, zippered pockets, cuffs with tab, seamless adhesive sewing such as laminating, lock-stitch+ seam-sealing, and welding.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.229-240
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• 2001

The purpose of the present study was to analyze the acceptance level of forecasted information of casual wear in tate 1990s in Korea and the way of utilizing fashion trends information by casual wear industries. The Present study was implemented by content analysis and descriptive survey using questionnaire and interview. Trends information in fashion journals published by fashion institute and articles in daily newspapers were analyzed in terms of fashion image, color, fabric, and silhouette. The data collected from questionnaire and interview with 113 fashion specialists were analyzed through frequency, percentage. The results indicated that among the forecasted information regarding fashion image, romantic and feminine images showed a high level of acceptance to national brand women's casual wear in the late 1990s, while mannish image showed a low level of acceptance. For men's casual wear in the same time period, androgynous trends appeared most frequently, not only in forecasted information, but also in actual trend. it was forecasted that yellow, white, and gray would be in trend and those colors appeared frequently in actual trend. On the other hand pastel tone appeared much more frequently than forecasted. Natural, thin - transparent (S/S) and stretch fabrics (F/W) were in actual trend as it was forecasted. Fit and Pare (woman), and long and slim (man) silhouettes were in actual trend as if was forecasted, but barrel silhouette appeared only in forecasted information. Most of the information forecasting fashion trends for next season were applied to the product planning of the season, right after the information comes out.