• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.111-125
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• 2007

By examining the existing Galot products in the market, we aimed to discover areas for new development and lay out the foundational system for establishing a database(DB) of their pattern grading. For the analysis, the team focused mainly on Galot in forms of casual korean traditional clothes, since they have the largest market share. The main accomplishments from this research are as follows. First, because adult females are the largest segment to consider in deciding the size system for grading, we selected three sizes that have to be compatible with the KS Clothing Standardized Sizing. Second, for basic pattern grading, we applied the reference size indicated in KS Clothing Standardized Size, and also used half dart sloper and dartless sloper. Third, we categorized designs according to the presence or absence of a dart, the structure of closure, and the shape of the sleeve and neck. We indicated the grading points with numbers and body area in Korean to make it easier for the users to understand when using the computer system and doing manual work. To further increase the user convenience, we provided diagrams for categorized designs, pattern grading layout, and a table for calculated grading points variation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.6
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• pp.943-961
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• 2018

This study was to develop an ergonomic Korean male military winter jackets (inner and outer) pattern. First, we developed a prototype pattern and sample jackets based on a previous investigation for fitness and motion suitability of Korean male military winter jackets and evaluated fitness and motion suitability by a wearing test. The evaluation results were positive with an over 3.0 (5.0 Likert scale) for both the inner and outer jacket. However, a relatively low score was shown in the sleeve length and collar front height at the inner jacket and shown in hem circumference, neck circumference, elbow and front neck at the outer jacket. Next, we developed the secondary pattern and sample jacket reflecting the prototype evaluation result and executed expert evaluation. The result showed that the ease amount was appropriate (except for the collar back height) and the appearance was good. Finally, we developed a final pattern that showed good results after evaluation at a Korean military army base.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2023

Dressmaking is a high value-added sector of the fashion industry in which the individuality and skills of designers play a prominent role. The appropriate use of the draping and the flat pattern techniques in the dressmaking process also play an important part in perfecting the finished product. The purpose of this study was to improve the understanding of dress design and identify a pattern production technique to enhence efficiency in each of the three elements of the dress manufactureing process. For this purpose, analysis of the design of 1,389 wedding dress photographs published in Wedding 21, Korea's leading wedding magazine, during 2019 and 2020 was conducted. This analysis identified 15 bodice designs and 11 sleeve designs based on neckline and eight skirts based on silhouette which were ranked by frequency distribution. Patterns for the design of samples were then developed according to the highest combined frequency distribution of these three elements. Eight samples were finally produced to test the the efficiency of the patternmaking techniques empolyed and the selected designs. The findings from this study have practical applications, notably in improving the efficiency of pattern production techniques that will facilitate further growth in the dressmaking industry.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.14 no.4 s.36
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• pp.274-280
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• 1990

This paper is intended to grasp the characteristics of many bodices patterns which have been shown so far. The way is by selecting four characteristic kinds of patterns, making blouses offer the patterns and measuring ease. In measuring the degree of ease, $Scheff\`{e}'s$ paired comparison is made use of. In analysis, variation ratio has come out of analysis of variance, and significance is tested by producing estimated values between patterns. The Result is summed up as follows. 1. After wearing blouses made ofter different basic patterns and measuring ease, the analysis of variance is made about the sensory value of ease. The result is as follows. 1) In the ease of different patterns, all the areas are significant at the level of $1\%$ , regard- less of movements. 2) Under the influence of movements, the back area of arm hole is significant at the level of $5\%$ in narrow movements, and the front and the back area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 3) In the interaction of patterns and movements, bust and the under area of arm hole are each significant at the level of $1\%$ in narrow movements, and bust is significant at the level of $1\%$ in wide movements. 2. When comparing estimated values between patterns, the value of c is the largest and in the order of b,4, a. And in the other movements, the order changes into c,d, b and a. Thus the ease of blouses is different according to patterns. The reason for this is that the amount of ease of bust, the amount and location of darts, and sleeve cap height have complicate influences on the ease of blouses. Both sleeve cap height and the depth of arm hole have influences on the ease of sleeve. Consequently, in making clothes, it would be better to select and use proper patterns which go with the purposes and desings of clothes rather than to apply one pattern to various clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.8
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• pp.107-120
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to characterize the preference for fashion design according to fashion value of Net generation's. This study has 824 samples of individuals aged from 13 to 24. These sampling data are analyzed by frequency analysis, cross-tabs analysis, T-test, LSD-test, MANOVA and ANOVA utilizing SPSS WIN package. The results of this study are as follows; Net generation's is economic value higher than other fashion value and prefer for ring cuffs, mandarin sleeves, shirt collar, round neckline, tailored pants, blue color, check pattern according to economic value. It is proved that in case of shirt, people prefer ring cuffs, raglan sleeves, shirt collar, for jacket, prefer coat cuffs, mandarin sleeves, tailored collar, for jumper, they prefer single cuffs, set in sleeves, soutien collar and for T-shirt, prefer round neckline. For the design and length of pants, people prefer long tailored pants, color of blue and check designed one. It is proved that women haute a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than men do.1318 teenagers have a higher preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than semi-adult. Above university educational-course Net generation has a higher degree of preference for sleeve-design, neckline-design and color than high school educational-course Net generation does. A class of average monthly income of 2-3 million won has a higher degree of preference for neckline-design and color than other lasses do. And there is no difference at the preference for the fashion design when considered classes of average monthly expenditure on purchasing clothes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.465-469
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• 2003

The present study revealed; that (1) The students majoring in a piano course were the preference type of the performance dress - best line was designed of upper form chest. It was 1.5cm shorter than armhole line, the princess line was preferred Top one piece without sleeves which was designed with slim by bottom line through west dart form best line. The expression method was showing embroidery and bidding, colors were in order to white, ivory, black and blue style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning, silk satin and race style. (2) The students majoring in a vocal music were the preference type of the performance dress - the princess line was designed shorter, the west line of back and forth was preferred the one piece of bulk style divided with three partitions. Neck line was 5cm shorter than the middle of back, 9cm shorter than the side neck position, 9cm shorter than the middle of forth, sweet heart neck line with circular sleeve designed 7cm shorter than the side neck position. Colors were in order to ivory, red and yellow style. The material was in order to silk with glorious shinning silk satin and race style.

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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• 2008.11a
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• pp.198-203
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• 2008

In the present study, the deformation behavior of both of metal and polymer combination on impact was investigated. They have showed a different deformation behavior when the co-axially combined projectile was impacted on rigid target. The theory according to Taylor's simplified approach assumes an ideally rigid-plastic material model exhibiting rate-independent behavior and simple one-dimensional wave propagation concepts that neglect radial inertia. In the case of impact with polymeric materials, elastic strain in general are not negligible compared with plastic strain; and the rigid-plastic material behavior assumed by Taylor for metallic materials cannot be applied any more. Since, the sleeve and the core materials have widely different mechanical properties, they will produce a significant difference of mechanical impedance with each other. Therefore these impedance mismatch influences on the deformation behavior sleeved polymer projectile on impact. As a result, sleeved projectiles will generate a very interesting impact behavior. Therefore, the according to sleeved metal material and core polymer material can see expected. The objective of this study was to investigate the factors which influences on deformation behavior pattern of sleeve materials surface.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.