• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.731-740
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• 2015

Mobile (smartphone) search engine marketing is increasingly important. Accordingly, the development of visual apparel search technology to obtain easier and faster access to visual information in the apparel field is urgently needed. This study helps establish a proper classifying system for an apparel search after an analysis of search techniques for apparel search applications and existing domestic and overseas apparel sites. An annotation technique is developed in accordance with visual attributes and apparel categories based on collected data obtained by web crawling and apparel images collecting. The categorical composition of apparel is divided into wearing, image and style. The web evaluation site traces the correlations of the apparel category and apparel factors as dependent upon visual attributes. An appraisal team of 10 individuals evaluated 2860 pieces of merchandise images. Data analysis consisted of correlations between apparel, sleeve length and apparel category (based on an average analysis), and correlation between fastener and apparel category (based on an average analysis). The study results can be considered as an epoch-making mobile apparel search system that can contribute to enhancing consumer convenience since it enables an effective search of type, price, distributor, and apparel image by a mobile photographing of the wearing state.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권6호
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• pp.899-914
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• 2000

The purpose of the study was to provide the actual data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. In order to get the data, we had 3 parts of the procedure as follows ; 1. The survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly in 1999. 2. Measuring 10 measurements of 80 disabled men and women each, 160 samples. 3. On the basis of data above, developing the adaptive dresses and doing the wearing-tests of those. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar pajama's. Specially, pajama style was needed for the disabled elderly being sick in bed, one-piece style was required for the disabled eldery with dementia. And the most desirable fabric function was a physiological comfortability. The most proper price required was about 20,000 won. 2. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. And according to the frequency in the size chart, we suggested the production size for the disabled eldery men and women. 3. After developing these adaptive dresses, the results of wearing-tests showed two kinds of problems. One was that of the sleeve length ; Actually, for the disabled elderly, the longer than the production size is the better for them. The other problem was revealed from subsidiay materials, fasteners.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.25-36
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• 1999

The purpose of the present research was to analyse for a sample of female collge students by Korean and American the preferred style of clothing with body cathexis. The respondents were 242 Korean and 145 American female volunteers aged 18 to 27 who were enrolled at Kwangju and Cathlic University of korean and Cornell University in the Unites States. The questionnaire was composed of three sections: body size body cathexis and the preferred style of clothing. Sixteen items of twenty-six items of the preferred style of clothing showed a significant difference between Korean and American. Korean students didn't like a bulky fabric and a bright color than American do. American students like a effect of accessories and clothing to emphasize my bust line and care about sleeve shape skirt length skirt shape than Korean do. Korean students were more dissatisfied with their body than American female students. There was a negative relationship between body cathexis and preference of tight skirt both Korean and American female students. There was a positive relationship among body cathexis and preference of outfit and preference of garment of polished silhouette by Korean female students a positive relationship among preference of fitted waist and design to emphasize bust line.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.604-612
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• 2015

This study investigates preferred bicycle wear designs that can satisfy active senior consumers. A survey was conducted on 50-60's women who periodically rode bicycles. The results indicated a preference for slim designs and red colors. Jacket designs preferences were for a tight fit for size tolerance, stand collar style, and elastic band details for cuff styles. Pants design preferences were for a whole band waist belt type with a tight fit style such as leggings in pants silhouette, zipper details on the side line and ankle length. They also preferred styles with pads attached to underpants in the pad style and the part of the back waist in the pocket position. The survey showed four kinds of jacket design drawings on an ordinal scale rating. Results indicated a preference for set-in variation jackets with the red and gray color combination. Finally, we demonstrated bicycle wear design suggestions. The jacket applied different armhole line colors connected to the sleeve to make the waist slimmer; in addition, stretchable material helped improve armpit part functionality.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.147-155
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• 2013

The demand to complement the elderly body shape with comfortable clothing has greatly increased with the growing elderly population and their improved social-economic level. However, apparel industries have not provided significant production and sale strategies that reflect and consider elderly body shape characteristics. This study investigated the demand and complaints of current silver wear. This study was conducted on 100 elderly people 65 and over. The questionnaires were composed of Korean Activities of Daily Living (K-ADL) that reflect the general characteristics of the respondents related to clothing (clothing requirements and demands) and free comments on each question. Subsequently, we found that the most uncomfortable clothing parts were 'sleeve length' and 'crotch' in women and 'neck circumference' and 'pocket' in men when wearing shirts and pants respectively. Respondents felt that the button and zipper knob sizes were too small with the buttons too numerous. The results suggest that we should consider body shape changes caused by aging in order to develop elderly clothing patterns to improve the level of ADL. We anticipate apparel industries for the elderly to expand due to the rapid increase in the elderly population.

• Journal of Chest Surgery
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• 제25권11호
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• pp.1299-1304
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• 1992

We experienced 5 cases of tracheal stenosis and 7 cases bronchial stenosis treated surgically at the Department of Thoracic and Cardiovascular Surgery, School of Medicine, Hanyang University during 5 years. The causes of tracheal stenosis were prolonged endotracheal intubation 1 case, tracheostomy 1 case, the sequela of endobronchial tuberculosis 2 cases and tracheomalacia 1 case. The causes of bronchial stenosis were all endobronchial tuberculosis. The managements of tracheal stenosis were tracheal resection and end to end anastomosis. The resected lengths of trachea were 1.5cm, 3cm and 7.5cm. One case of suglottic stenosis was underwent the resection of trachea, 8cm in length, and the laryngotracheal anastomosis was done, but the re-stenosis of trachea was developed after 4 weeks post-operatively. One case of tracheomalacia was done permanent tracheostomy only, because the entire trachea was adhered to the surrounding tissue. The managements of bronchial stenosis were resection of involved lobe or one lung, in the 5 case. One case with Lt. main bronchial stenosis and atelectasis of Lt. upper lobe was done the lobectomy of Lt. upper lobe only and then, the Lt. pneumonectomy was done re-operatively because the atelectasis of Lt. lower lobe had continued. The other one case with stenosis of Rt. main bronchus, failed the insertion of metalic stent, was underwent the Rt. upper lobe lobectomy, sleeve resection and side to end anastomosis