When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.
The thin-layered sand seam in clay affects the soil behavior. Although the standard cone penetrometer (A: $10cm^2$) have been used to evaluate the thin-layered soil, the smaller diameter cone penetrometer have been commonly recommended because of the high resolution. The purpose of this study is the development and application of the Cone Resistivity Penetrometer (CRP), which detects qc, fs, and electrical resistivity at cone tip for the evaluation of thin layered soils. Two sizes of the CRP are developed for the laboratory and field test. The projected areas of CRP for the laboratory and field tests are $0.78cm^2$ (d: 1.0 cm) and $1.76cm^2$ (d: 1.5 cm), repectively. The length of friction sleeve is designed in consideration of ratio of the projected area to the friction sleeve area. The application tests are carried out by using the artificially prepared thin-layered soils in the laboratory. In addition, the field tests are conducted at the depth of 6 to 15 m in Kwangyang. In the laboratory test, the measured electrical resistivity and cone tip resistance detect the soil layers. Moreover, in the field test the CRP investigates the three thin-layered soils. This study suggests that the CRP may be a useful tool for detecting thin-layered in soft soils.
According to the design method for constructing the G gori(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic G gori, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the tow sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since th-ere in no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial requlation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the G gori's girth, length and neck width is fixed at 70 degrees. 2) The radius of the cone is B/2. 3) The calculation formula is B/4 + 1.5cm 4) The armhole formula is B/4, the same as in the basic method. 5) The width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction(width of collar + width of collar strip)to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius (B/2), that is an arc that exceeds the length of the G gori's midsection; the component ratio of this length to the collar junction is accordingly 13:5. 8) The curve frame length of the back midsection is an arc exceeding B/4(the armhole line). 9) The ratio of the sleeve opening calculation formula to the armhole length is 8:5, forming an arc with the midsection length.
This study is on the kindergarten uniforms in Changwon, south Gyeongsang province. The first part of this research is on whether or not students should wear uniforms and how often they should wear uniforms. The research also deals with what types of uniforms are required, how much they should cost and their size. Fifty one preschools including kindergarten and nursery were targeted for this research. The second part of the research is on the discrepancy of the labeled size and the actual size of the child. The results of the first part are as follows: A total of 46 out of 51 places adopted uniforms for their children. Sports wear style is the most popular for spring, fall and summer uniforms. For wearing frequency of kindergarten uniforms, 26 (61%) places allowed the students to wear uniforms for special events such as picnics or observation trips 17(34%) places had the students wear their uniforms on a daily basis and 2 3 times only wearing a week.'rho preschool children interviewed for this study were from 2 to 5 in lull age. However, sizes with high frequency rates were 9 to 11 and the supplied sizes of uniforms were from 5 to 17. The results of the second part are as follows: The bust girth and the shoulder width of upper garments of uniforms are bigger than children's physical size, while clothes length and sleeve length are relatively shorter. Also the bust girth of upper garments of uniforms differs in the size depending on each preschool. The waist girth and the total length of lower garments of uniforms are made smaller than children's physical sizes, while hip girth is relatively larger. In the case of lower garments, the rest parts of cloth length are smaller than upper garments of uniforms. Also, the waist girth and hip width of uniforms are smaller than those of lower garments In summer garments, while thigh width is similar in both cases. The waist width is made too small. Described in the above excluding the waist width, the rest parts are relatively larger than children's physical sizes, but shorter in the length. Due to the length, children at age 7 may wear uniforms in the level of 17. Since summer uniforms touch the students' bare skin, the rest parts excluding clothes length are shorter than these of the spring and fall uniforms. In the case of clothes length, it seems to be due to different designs. The waist width of lower garments in all the uniforms tested in this study is too small for children, requiring them to be made in a larger size.
The object of this study lies on classifying the size, which is mostly favored in Korea where the wedding dress is usually regarded as an article for rent, and on suggesting the range of sleeve design and that of neck line of bodice. For that, I extracted the average size by analyzing and researching the standard size of actual bodice from real wedding dress manufacturing company. According to the result of the research I named the standard size of Korean wedding dress for rent as 'WM' which has the girth of 88cm and the waist measure of 69cm. Based on the size 'WM', I also named the size 'WS' which has the girth of 82cm with extra length of 6cm up and down and the waist measure of 64cm with extra length of 5cm, and the size 'WL' which has the girth of 94cm and the waist measure of 74cm with same extra length as the size 'WS'. The extra space for the inseam of the back is 3 inches for left and right for all sizes and the mark of body size is standardized as 'girth-waist measure'. After that, I suggested the design types of sleeves and neck line of bodice which defined as its size by classifying the bodice of wedding dress based on its size. Generally the neck line of the tank top style has the widest range of wearable size, and the high neck line and bateau neck line types have the narrowest range. And the sleeveless type has the widest range of wearable size while the raglan type has the narrowest one.
In order to provide the basic data for creating the environment which can efficiently reflect prefer fit along with body size when selecting clothes size in the indirect purchasing environment, this study analyzed the difference of ready-made jacket part-specific fit preferred by fashion models in their twenties and female college students. This study was to analyze the impact of body size, recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape, body satisfaction on prefer fit of jacket. As for the difference of prefer fit depending on the body size, female college students preferred more loose fit than models. The difference according to recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape turned out to be significant for prefer fit depending on the degree of bend of neck, arm length, bend of back recognition and matching fit was found to be preferred as they recognize their body shape to be normal and the difference according to body satisfaction appeared to be significant in the terms of bend of back, hip width/protrusion, torso size/length, sleeve length, whole body shape and they turned out to prefer matching fit as they are satisfied with their body. As shown above, body size, recognition of body part-specific characteristics shape, especially body satisfaction have a great influence on prefer fit of jacket and therefore, if preparing for a size selection step according to body shape and satisfaction in the jacket size selection process, customers' satisfaction in jacket size may be improved and it is considered to be helpful for both consumers and sellers.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.7
no.1
/
pp.1-13
/
2005
This study is for the construction of Cheo-Yongdance Costumeby historical research based on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom(樂學軌範). Through the production of Cheo-Yongdance Costume by historical research, it is examined and this study is expected that be a help of the right succession of a traditional costume. Cheo-Yongdance Costumeis draught to real size by comparing the size and picture suggested in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom. In the specialty of Cheoyong(處容) dance Costume in the drawing, the length of clothes was 152cm that is longer than the length of the excavated Danlyeong(團領) of Chosun Dynasty period. Width was 81.9cm that is very big and the width of Danlyeong is 11.7cm. The sleeve length of Hansam(汗衫) is 20O.60cm and it is one that attached Hansam to Jeogori(저고리). The material used for Cheoyong dance Costume is Dan(緞), Cho, Joo(紬), Red gold patterned brocade(紅金線). At the same part, and as the goal was differently used at the same clothing. As the methods of dyeing, the process of dyeing naturally is suggested. A gardenia seeds, indigo plant, and ink stick are used for the color of blue, red, yellow and black. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Danlyeong is required the technique of smoothing out wrinklesin case of attaching. Goon(裙) was made by making plaits below and attaching string for making form in the literature. Ui(衣), Chon-ui(天衣) and Goon(裙)'s Bang-sul(方膝) are drawn a Man-hwa Mun(蔓花紋) on Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom by using the golden dyeing material. As the result of producing the clothe by using the recorded size in Ak-Hak-Gue-Peom, it could be examine a pertinent dance clothing for expressing the dance performance with big motions.
The necessity on children dresses for cultural events and emotional aspects in designs have become important according to the development of kids industry and revitalization of party culture, and so grasping emotional requirements of consumers is necessary actually. This study aims at purpose of this research, the study used 27 color pictures on the whole bodies of children who wore children dresses that mixed clothing design factors differently (sleeve, skirt length, waist line, materials, color, decoration type and location) through a survey. Regarding the survey objects, this study objected children of 5~6 years old in full and their mothers who lived in Gwangju Metropolitan City, and its results were same as follows. First, dress preferences between children group and mother group were similar generally, but differences were displayed from dress lengths. That is, children preferred long length in general, and whereas mothers were come out to prefer shot length comparatively. Second, the study could get results by mixing ranking 1 and ranking 2 according to clothing design factors that were preferred by children group and mothers group deduced through an empirical analysis. Merely, the location according to decoration type was limited to ranking 1. Based on the research, this study expects that various forthcoming researches have been made continuously, and it could become a guideline for the development of children dress industry afterwards.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.35
no.9
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pp.1049-1059
/
2011
This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.
Kim, Do Hoon;Kim, Do Yeon;Choi, Hye Yeon;Park, Ji Soon;Lee, Ye Hyun;Oh, Joo Han
Clinics in Shoulder and Elbow
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v.19
no.3
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pp.155-162
/
2016
Background: The study aimed to determine the type of capsular insertion and the extent of capsular elongation in anterior shoulder instability by quantitatively evaluating their computed tomography arthrographic (CTA) findings, and to investigate the correlation of these parameters with surgical outcomes. Methods: We retrospectively reviewed 71 patients who underwent CTA and arthroscopic capsulolabral reconstruction for anterior shoulder instability between April 2004 and August 2008. The control group comprised 72 patients diagnosed as isolated type II superior labrum anterior to posterior (SLAP) lesion during the period. Among the 143 patients, 71 were examined with follow-up CTA at an average 13.8 months after surgery. It was measured the capsular length and cross-sectional area at two distinct capsular regions: the 4 and 5 o'clock position of the capsule. Results: With regards to the incidence of the type of anterior capsular insertion, type I was more common in the control group, whereas type III more common than in the instability group. Anterior capsular length and cross-sectional area were significantly greater in the instability group than in the control group. Among patients of the instability group, the number of dislocations and the presence of anterior labroligamentous periosteal sleeve avulsion lesion were significantly associated with anterior capsular redundancy. Postoperatively, recurrence was found in 3 patients (4.2%) and their postoperative capsular length and cross-sectional area were greater than those of patients without recurrence. Conclusions: Capsular insertion type and capsular redundancy derived through CTA may serve as important parameters for the management of anterior shoulder instability.
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