• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.26
• /
• pp.175-206
• /
• 1995

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.35
• /
• pp.45-66
• /
• 1997

This thesis is a study on the kaftan styles iin Asia. The purpose of he study was to examine the origin o the kaftan concentrating on the history and cultural backgrounds of nomads in he Western Central and North Eastern Asia. Secondly for more thorough study and expla-nation on how these kaftans contributed to East-West trade along the silk road. wall paintings and miniature illuminations along Oasis roads persia and Saracen period were compared, Also real kaftans were compared and analyzed the characteristics of Western (Turkey palestine) Central(Kazakistan Uz-bekistan Tadzhistan Qyrgyztan Turkmenistan) and the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the North Eastern Asian(Mongol) area. Thirdly an attempt has been made to provide the style classifications according to their peculiarities of the various kaftans as well as how kaftan gave important influences on custumes of different religious sects. The kaftan is a long coat-like garment with front openings fastened with long sash having an extra long sleeves which were worn by middle and high class nomadics throughout the West Central and North Eastern Asia This type of kaftans were a basic clothing for nomadics since they were constantly moving fromone to another areas on their horse back riding. They also wore tight trousers with boots. Kaftans seem to be originated from nomads of Steppe around B.C. 800 On B. C 400 west asian areas such as Solokha Kul-oba Kulogan had pictures sculptues on vases showing kaftans of half coat type length with front opening tied with band. Also the materials used were the products of animals such as wool or felt with animal designs showing Scythian nomads. In the North Eastern Asia Hsiung-Nu were active in Kazakha North Altai and Mongol The Clothing and fabrics exfavated near Noin-ula Pazyrik showed many samples of kaftan with trousers with other interment be-longings with a corpse around B.C 300 to A. D 100 when trades along the silk roads were proven by many historians Kaftans excavated in this area wore red front opening silk materials which suggesting settling down of nomads. in he central Asia Dol-gull near Altai mountain area were mainly miners who later had many trades with Persia and Bizantine. After Dol-gull Bezeklik temple Samarkant Kizil cow Budda sculture wall paintings of Astana tomb showed typical kaftan of this re-gion. These were both hip covered length as well as long coat with narrow sleeves. Es-pecially they had different color band fron the main kaftan with grogeously and splendously designed silk. In perusia during A. D 1400 to 1600 minia-ture illumination showed kaftan as a high class symbol more than clothing purpose. They had best quality silk with extra long sleeves draping and had a layers of kaftans one on top of anther as a symbol of wealth These Kaftans with different colors and designs were even more beautiful with their effective combinations and contrast of colors. On the other hand the lower class common people and servants wore simple kaftan with the front part of the kaftan were slipped into the belt in order to be more active and con-venient to work, The real kaftans discovered at Topkapi Saray palace of Turkey from A. D 1300 to 1900 were also compared. These kaftans were very numerous in numbers as well as designs The materials and designs used were also vari-ous such as Chinese to Italian silk. The shaped and pattern itself were not much different from the previous nomad's Kaftans. The Palestian kaftans remained were from the beginning of 19th and 20th century. Since this area is hot and dry desert they used black and navy blue colors mostly in order to exclude the sun lights. The patterns used were similar to Nomads and Bedouin with cross stiches and patch work decorations. In the central Asia they had similar life style and natural environmental cnditions with Turkish tribe which resulted in similar kaftan styles as nomads. Mongols conserved basic patterns of kaftan since Cinggis Khan with deep folding in order to keep warm. At last the kaftans studided in this thesis were classified in to four such as half coat long coat jacket and vest style. A pattern used in the Central Asia were zigzag and ani-mal design whereas in the West Asia were floral plant arabesk and circle pattern. As I discussed previously kaftan styles of nomads in the Asia maintained its basic pat-tern throughout the history except slight changes in color gusset sleeve shapes. These slight changes were made according to the need to adapt the need of environmental natu-ral conditions, The reason for aboriginality of kaftan in Asia was its simplicity and con-venience Most interesting fact is that for all these years Mongols are still wearing kaftan in their life ensuring us that they art the preserves of old kaftan. Since this thesis dealt enormous Asian regions I had a limitation of not being able to cover the Far Esatern asian areas such as Korea China and Japan how these kaftans were influenced in their clothing history as well as Eastern and Western culture. This topic along with the studies on materials and designs of patterns of kaftan will be another research project in the future.

• Journal of Chest Surgery
• /
• v.42 no.1
• /
• pp.63-71
• /
• 2009

Background: The treatment of tracheal stenosis includes less invasive bronchoscopic intervention and more invasive segmental resection & anastomosis. Depending on the patient's clinical features, sometimes all these methods are inappropriate. Silicone T-tube stenting has recently been used as an alternative, safe management of tracheal stenosis. We studied the short term and Intermediate term results of using T-tubes in patients with tracheal stenosis, and this tracheal stenosis was caused by various underlying diseases. Material and Method: We retrospectively reviewed 57 patients with tracheal stenosis and who were treated with T-tubes between Jan 1997 and Apr 2007. Based on the patient's medical records and the imaging studies, we evaluated the clinical findings and status of T-tube removal. Result: There was no T-tube related morbidity or mortality in this series. On follow-up, one patient underwent sleeve resection and end-to-end anastomosis. The T-tube could be successfully removed from 13 patients (13/57, 22.8%) without additional interventions. For another four patients, a T-tube was again inserted after removal of the first T-tube due to tracheomalacia or recurrent stenosis. Four patients died of underlying disease and cancer. The patients' gender and previous tracheostomy significantly affected T-tube removal. By contrast, multiple logistic regression analysis identified gender as a predictor of successfully removing a T-tube. Gender (p=0.033) and previous tracheostomy (p=0.036) were the two factors for success or failure of T-tube removal. Conclusion: A T-tube provided reliable patency of a stenotic airway that was caused by any etiology. We have proven that using a T-tube is safe and effective therapy for patients with tracheal stenosis for the short term or the intermediate term.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.1-16
• /
• 2002

The need for ready-to-wear clothing increases as the problem comes to arise from the fit of custommade clothing due to the characteristics of middle-aged women's somatotype. At this point of time, a study on the realities of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms is of very greatly significance. Therefore, this study was intended to identify the problem and improvements through the survey research of production of custom-made clothing in middle-aged women's clothing business firms and further present the plan for development of custom-made clothing business. The questionnaire was framed based on the contents extracted from the preliminary questionnaire research for the pattern section chief of each business firm. Collected data were statistically processed using the SPSS 10.0 Windows program. As a result, the following findings were obtained: 1. The target age of the middle-aged women's clothing business firms ranged from more than 45 years to less than 50 years of age. Clothing business firms much made inroads into the ready-to-wear clothing market largely in the 1980s and the 1990s. Their active entry into the custom-made clothing market occurred in the 1970s and the 1980s. 2. In terms of the clothing production method of middle-aged women's clothing firms, some private boutique and designer brand clothing firms entered the clothing market with a focus on custom-made clothing in the beginning of its organization and introduced the production method of ready-to-wear clothing in accordance with changes in production methods and consumers' needs and wants. National brand clothing firms manufactured clothing with a focus on ready-to-wear clothing from the beginning of its organization, but at last they manufactured both partial custom-made and whole custom-made as the problem arose from ready-to-wear clothing. Seeing that their clothing production showed the ratio readyto-wear to custom-made clothing of 2.58:1. And it was found that the manufacture of ready-to-wear and custom-made clothing took into consideration the great difference in the pattern, size and design plan. The research of the clothing production process showed that whole custom-made and partial custommade were distinguished according to whether or not the sample was presented. 3. The ready-to-wear pattern of middle-aged women's clothing firms were used with a focus on the 'patternmaker-developed pattern' and company-developed pattern'. Most clothing businesses produced clothing in 4 to 5 basic sizes, which is found to be insufficient to complement the physical characteristics of middle-aged women with many specific somatotypes. In the pattern of custom-made clothing, the 'pattern of ready-to-wear were applied' or the 'customized pattern was developed'. Actual measurements were most used as the size of custom-made, and accordingly it is predicted that the level of satisfaction is higher with the fit of custom-made clothing than that of ready-to-wear. The selling place and the head office showed the similar percent as the place for measuring the size of custom-made clothing. Size measurers were mostly the shop master. And it was found that most clothing business firms had a problem when the measured size was applied to the pattern. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide education on size measurement for shop masters. 4. It was found that in the middle-aged women's clothing firms, the pattern correction of the length of sleeve, jacket and slacks occupied the highest percent. Accordingly, it is necessary to provide for the size system to complement the accurate somatotype characteristics of middle-aged women. 5. In custom-made clothing customer management, most firms engaged in customer somatotype management through size management. They provided customers with commodity information by informing them of the sales and event period and practiced human management for customers by maintaining the get-together and friendly relationship. 6. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it would be necessary to improve the fit of custom-made clothing and complement their pursuit for individuality as the plan to improve its quality. In consequence, it suggests that middle-aged women's clothing businesses should provide middle-aged women with the clothing of better-suited size and refined design. Middle-aged women's clothing businesses responded that it was the most urgent task to form the custom-made clothing manufacturing team as the plan to expand the custom-made clothing market, which is identified as their emphasis on the systematized production of custom-made clothing.

• Journal of Chest Surgery
• /
• v.41 no.1
• /
• pp.68-73
• /
• 2008

Background: The presence of infiltrated mediastinal lymph nodes is a crucial factor for the prognosis of lung cancer. The aim of our study is to investigate the pattern of metastatic non-small cell lung cancer that spreads to the mediastinal lymph nodes, in relation to the primary tumor site, in patients who underwent major lung resection with complete mediastinal lymph node dissection. Material and Method: We retrospectively. studies 293 consecutive patients [mean age $63.0{\pm}8.3$ years (range $37{\sim}88$) and 220 males (75.1%)] who underwent major lung resection due to non-small cell lung cancer from January 1998 to December 2005. The primary tumor and lymph node status was classified according to the international TNM staging system reported by Mountain. The histologic type of the tumors was determined according to the WHO classification. Fisher's exact test was used; otherwise the chi-square test of independence was employed. A p-value < 0.05 was considered significant. Result: Lobectomy was carried out in 180 patients, bilobectomy in 50, sleeve lobectomy in 10 and pnemonectomy in 53. The pathologic report revealed 124 adenocarcinomas, 138 squamous-cell tumors, 14 adenosquamous tumors, 1 carcinoid tumor, 8 large cell carcinomas, 1 carcinosarcoma, 2 mucoepidermoid carcinomas and 5 undifferentiated tumors. The TNM stage was IA in 51 patients, IB in 98, IIB in 41, IIIA in 71, IIIB in 61 and IV in 6. 25.9 % of the 79 patients had N2 tumor. Most common infiltrated mediastinal lymph node was level No.4 in the right upper lobe, level No. 4 and 5 in the left upper lobe and level No. 7 in the other lobes, but no statistically significant difference was observed. Thirty-six patients (12.3%) presented with skip metastasis to the mediastinum. Conclusion: Mediastinal lymph node dissection is necessary for accurately determining the pTNM stage. It seems that there is no definite way that non-small cell lung cancer spreads to the lymphatics, in relation to the location of the primary cancer. Further, skip metastasis to the mediastinal lymph nodes was present in 12.3% of our patients.

• Korean Journal of Head & Neck Oncology
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.236-243
• /
• 1998

Objectives: Local invasion of the thyroid cancer that is invasion of the upper aerodigestive tract, neurovascular structures of the neck and superior mediastinum, is infrequent and comprises of 1-16% of well-differentiated thyroid cancer. However the proximity of the thyroid gland to these structures provides the means for an invasive cancer to gain ready access into theses structures and when invasion occurs, it is the source of significant morbidity and mortality. So locally invasive thyroid cancer should be removed as much as possible, but still much debates have been exist whether the surgical method should be radical or conservative. This study was desinged to evaluate the clinical characteristics and the surgical treatment of the locally invasive thyroid cancer. Material and Methods: At the department of otorhinolaryngology of Hallym university, 10 patients diagnosed as locally invasive thyroid cancer among the 81 patients treated for thyroid cancer between 1991 to 1997 were retrospectively evaluated. Results: Of the 10 patients, 3 patients had histories of previous surgical treatment with or without radiation or radioactive iodine therapy. The site of invasion of thyroid cancer were trachea(7 cases), recurrent laryngeal nerve(5 cases), mediastinal node(5 cases), esophagus(3cases), larynx(3cases), carotid artery(3 cases), pharynx(l case), and other sites(4 cases). The operation techniques included 1 partial laryngectomy and 1 partial cricoid resection, 2 shavings and 3 window resections of the trachea, 1 sleeve resection of the trachea with end-to-end anastomosis and 1 cricotracheoplasty for tracheal invasion, 2 shavings and 1 partial esophagectomies for esophageal invasion, and 1 wall shaving and 2 partial resections with $Gortex^{\circledR}$ tube reconstruction for carotid artery invasion, and so on. Conclusions: These data and review of literature suggest that the surgical method should be perfomed on the basis of individual condition and complete removal of all gross tumor with preservation of vital structures whenever possible will offer a good result.

• Proceedings of the Korean Biophysical Society Conference
• /
• 2003.06a
• /
• pp.37-37
• /
• 2003

We have shown the $Ca^{2+}$-activated chloride current is present in cardiac myocyte in rabbit pulmonary vein (Kim et al., 2002). This current amplitude was increased as [N $a^{+}$]$_{i}$ was increased and we suggested this chloride current may be involve in the spontaneous action potential frequency change. Since this current is activated by the increase of intracellular $Ca^{2+}$, we would like to test what is the inducer of the increase of [C $a^{2+}$]$_{i}$ between a L-type $Ca^{2+}$-current or a reverse mode of N $a^{+}$-C $a^{2+}$ exchange current. White rabbit (1.5 kg) was used and anesthetized with Ketamin (100 mg/kg). Pulmonary vein (PV) was isolated and sleeve area between left atrium and PV was dissected. Using collagenase (Worthington 0.7 mg/cc), single cardiac myocytes were isolated. In the presence of 15 mM of N $a^{＋}$, three steps of voltage pulses were applied (holding potential : -40 ㎷, -80 ㎷ for 50 msec, 30 ㎷ for 5 msec, 10 ㎷ steps from -70 ㎷ to 60 ㎷). The inward and outward tail current was activated after brief 5 msec prepulse. The outward tail current was blocked by the removal of extracellular chloride substituted by glucuronic acid or by a chloride channel blocker, 5 mM 9-AC. But the inward tail current was still remained even though the amplitude was decreased. The reversal potentials were changed to the direction of the change of chloride equilibrium potential ( $E_{Cl}$ ) but the shift of equilibrium potential was not enough to match to the theoretical equilibrium potential shift. In the presence of L-type $Ca^{2+}$ channel blocker, nifedipine 1 uM, inward tail currents were greatly reduced but the outward current tail currents were still remained. In the presence of N $a^{+}$-C $a^{2+}$ exchange current blocker, 10 uM KB-R7943, the inward and outward tail currents were blocked almost completely. We tried to test the $Ca^{2+}$sensitivity of the chloride current with various [C $a^{2+}$]$_{i}$ in pipette solution from 100 nM to 1 uM but we failed to activate $Ca^{2＋}$-activated chloride currents even though the cell became contracted in the presence of 1 uM $Ca^{2+}$. From these results, we could conclude that the increase of [C $a^{2+}$]$_{i}$ to activate the outward $Ca^{2+}$-activated chloride current was mainly induced by the activation of the reverse mode of N $a^{+}$-C $a^{2+}$ exchanger, But for the increase of [C $a^{2+}$]$_{i}$ to activate the inward tail current, L-type $Ca^{2+}$ current may be the major provoking current. Since the cytosolic increase of [C $a^{2+}$]$_{i}$ through pipette solution have failed to activate $Ca^{2+}$-activated chloride current, this chloride current may have very low $Ca^{2+}$ sensitivity or a comparmental increase $Ca^{2+}$ such as in subsarcolemmal space may activate the chloride current. Since there are several reports and models that the increase of $Ca^{2+}$ in subsarcolemmal space would be over several to tens of uM, both possibility may be valid together.uM, both possibility may be valid together.