• The Korea Journal of Herbology
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.109-115
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• 2019

Objective : Herbal medicinal mixture (JMB) are consisted of Caryophylli Flos, Aucklandiae Radix, and Angelicae Dahuricae Radix. Each of these herbal medicines has studied on anti-aging effect in vitro. So this study was conducted to investigate efficacy and potency of JMB extract on dermal anti-aging and whitening. Methods : The JMB was extracted at room temperature by 80% ethanol. Collagenase and elastase inhibition activity in JMB ethanol extract were determined at 10, 50, 100, 500, 1000 mg/ml concentrations by colorimetric method. The toxic range of JMB ethanol extract was evaluated using MTT assay. Also, The inhibitory effect of JMB ethanol extract on tyrosinase activity and melanin contents in mouse melanoma cell line (B16F10 cell) was identified at 50, 100, 200 ㎍/㎖ levels by spectrometric assay. In each analysis, EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate) and Kojic acid were used as positive controls, respectively. Results : The elastase and collagenase inhibitory activity of JMB ethanol extract increased dose dependently. Also, The MTT assay showed that JMB, up to 400 ㎍/㎖ concentration, exhibited no toxic effect to the B16F10 cell. And following the JMB ethanol extract treat, cellular melanin contents and tyrosinase activity were dose-dependently decreased compared to those of control. Conclusion : These results suggest that JMB ethanol extract has effects to inhibitory activity on dermal wrinkle enzyme and melanogenesis. Therefore, JMB has applicable benefits for development of materials or products to have whitening and anti-aging functions on skin.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.290-297
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• 2022

This study was conducted to determine the cell cytotoxicity, astringency, nitrite oxide scavenging, iNOS protein expression level, pro-inflammatory cytokine, elastase inhibition, and type I pro-collagen synthesis as a functional cosmetics material of Salvia miltiorrhiza root. We prepared the 80% ethanol(SE) and hot-distilled water(SW), respectively. Both SE and SW showed no toxicity from 0.05 to 0.5 mg/mL concentration as a result of MTT assay in NHDF or RAW264.7 cells. In the measurement of astringent effect, SE reveled 74.6% of astringent activity in 10 mg/mL. SE showed that LPS-induced nitric oxide production, iNOS protein expression, and cytokines were inhibited in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, two extracts significantly inhibited elastase activity and increased the type I pro-collagen production. Therefore, it is expected that Salvia miltiorrhiza extract is used as a natural material for functional cosmetics that can effectively prevent skin-related inflammation and wrinkles, and aging.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.17 no.8
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• pp.236-250
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• 2016

This study was conducted to provide baseline data regarding functional cosmetics so that Inula. based cosmetics can increase its competitiveness in the market as well as to understand current trends to enable anticipation of demands for future product development. For this research, general consumers over the age of 20 residing in Seoul and the Gyeonggi district were surveyed. The results show consumers preferred serum-type products among various types of cosmetics, and that they purchased these once every 1-3 months. Consumers also preferred these products in less than 10-30ml capacity, and at costs of less than 30,000-50,000 KRW. For whitening, functional cosmetics consumers also preferred the serum type, in less than 30-50ml capacity and priced less than 30,000-50,000 KRW. Consumers preferred to purchase functional cosmetics in single units. The major purchasing location, with a high preference rate, was cosmetic stores, and the major sources of information, also with high preference rates, were 'experienced reviews from family, friends and acquaintances' and 'TV advertisements'. Respondents selected 'over 50,000 KRW' the most for all items when responding to 'Purchase Intent for Functional Cosmetics containing Inula', and responded that they were willing to pay 10%-30% more for functional cosmetics containing Inula compared to standard functional cosmetics. These results show that businesses in the cosmetics industry need to take consumer demand into account when developing new functional cosmetic products, as well as establish plans to create specialized spaces that provide better quality service and increase word of mouth effect through better utilization of various types of offline media, social media, and blogs. The study also shows a need for businesses to develop products fully utilizing the Inula flower, which has been shown to be effective as a natural skin whitener, wrinkle reducer and skin moisturizer, to appeal to the increasing number of customers interested in health and beauty.

• Journal of Ginseng Research
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.196-202
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• 2007

Skin wrinkles are associated with collagen synthesis and matrix metalloproteinase-I (MMP-1) activity. This study was carried out to select optimum ratio of 3 herbs in skin health food for anti-wrinkle. Human dermal fibroblast cell was incubated with experimental samples, which were Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts (ER), Torilis fructus water extracts (WT), Corni fructus water extracts (WC) and their mixtures (WM1, WM3). And then we determined effects on collagen biosynthesis, MMP-1 activity and SOD activity in human dermal fibroblast cell. In control group, collagen biosynthesis was amounted at 474.8 ng/ml and 533.9 ng/ml, 539.3 ng/ml, 514.1 ng/ml in ER, WT and WC respectively. Furthermore, WM3 (KTNG0345) was increased to 561.45 ng/ml. MMP-1 activity of ER, WT, WC, WM1 were determined to 31.9 ng/ml, 32.85 ng/ml, 32.0 ng/ml, 31.3 ng/ml and WM3 (KTNG0345) was decreased to 28.85 ng/ml. In addition, the experimental samples showed a antioxidative activities. From this results, we conclude that Korean red ginseng ethanol extracts, Torilis fructus water extracts, Corni fructus water extracts and their mixtures have a anti-wrinkle effect and WM3 (KTNG0345) may be regarded as an optimum composition for synergic effect producing. The standardized components of KTNG0345, ginsenoside-$Rb_1$, torilin and loganin were identified at 10.85 mg/g, 0.128 mg/g and 3.92 mg/g respectively.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.93-99
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• 2017

Collagen synthesis is decreased and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) levels are increased in naturally aged human skin, and these alterations cause changes such as skin wrinkling and decreased elasticity. As a part of our ongoing search for bioactive ingredients, MMP-1 inhibitory and type-1 procollagen synthesis inducing activities of aqueous methanolic extract of manufactured gambir product from Uncaria gambir were investigated in in vitro bioassay systems. In addition, total phenolic contents were quantified using a spectrophotometric method. Among tested samples, 40% MeOH eluate from 80% methanolic extract of manufactured U. gambir using open column chromatography packed with Diaion HP-20 resin showed significant MMP-1 inhibitory activities with an $IC_{50}$ value of $15.6{\pm}1.3{\mu}g/mL$. Furthermore, type-1 procollagen synthesis promoting property of 40% MeOH eluate ($IC_{50}$ value; $6.9{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/mL$) from 80% methanolic extract of manufactured gambir was higher than other eluates. Additionally, the present investigation revealed that 40% MeOH eluate of manufactured gambir product contained a high level of total phenolic compounds. The result suggests a distinct relationship between anti-wrinkle activity and total phenolic contents, and manufactured gambir product could be considered a new effective source of natural bioactive ingredients. Systematic investigation of manufactured gambir product will be performed for further development of its biological properties.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.382-393
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• 2017

In this study, it studies about Phytosphingosine (PhS) and Phytosphingosine-1-phosphate(PhS1P), and it tries to confirm the effect through anti-inflammatory, anti-melanin, MMP-1 revelation inhibition, and Western blot analysis experiment after grasping toxicity about 3 cells by using B16F10 melanin cell, RAW264.7 macrophage, and HDF fibroblast in order to find out whether it is possible to use as cosmetic material or not by studying biological activity in terns of skin care. As a result of this experiment, it confirmed that toxicity about B16F10, RAW264.7, HDF cell is low, and PhS1P appeared stronger inhibition activity than PhS in anti-inflammatory NO inhibitory activity experiment. MMP-1 revelation was greater in PhS1P, and it confirmed that the mechanism is due to reduction in ERK activity. On the other hands, melanin generation inhibitory activity is better than arbutin, and it confirmed that the mechanism is due to inhibition of revelation of MTF and Tyrosinase. In a nutshell, PhS and PhS1P that are bioactive substance may confirm the possibility to be used as functional cosmetic for wrinkle and skin improvement of whitening cosmetic.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.181-187
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• 2012

Ligustrum lucidum (L. lucidum) contains large quantities of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid. In this study, we evaluated anti-wrinkle effects of three parts of L. lucidum extracts. We found that L. lucidum extracts were not only innocuous to human skin fibroblasts but also significantly decreased the expression of both MMP-1 and MMP-2 and increased the expression of COL1A1. Among the three parts of L. lucidum extracts (i.e., fruit, cane, and leaf extracts), the fruit extract was found to contain the greatest amounts of ursolic acid and oleanolic acid. These three parts of L. lucidum extracts increased the expression of COL1A1 and decreased the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-2 in a dose-dependent manner. Especially, the fruit extract of L. lucidum had the greatest upregulating effect on COL1A1 and the greatest downregulating effect on MMP-1 and MMP-2 in a non-toxic and dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that L. lucidum, especially the fruit, could be used as active ingredients for functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.219-226
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• 2011

The Echinacea, which has been commonly known as a species of composite herb of dicotyledonous plant, has been used in native American traditional medicine for the treatment of diseases like colds or other infections in North America. We artificially cultured the adventitious roots of Echinacea angustifolia using the bioreactor culture system from Echinacea angustifolia and evaluated the efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient for skin care. Several studies previously have reported neogenesis, wound healing and inflammatory inhibition effect of Echinacea angustifolia but other efficacies were not well known. In the present study, we investigated the cosmetic efficacy to know applicable value of adventitious roots cultured from Echinacea angustifolia as a cosmetic ingredient. The adventitious roots extract of Echinacea angustifolia has superior anti-oxidant effect and matrix metalloproteinase-2 inhibitory effect, compared to natural Echinacea angustifolia. These results indicate that the adventitious roots extract cultured from Echinacea angustifolia presents a new possibility of being applicable to skin care and anti-wrinkle products as a cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.81-98
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• 1992

Hairless mice (Skh:HR-1) exposed to single doses (0.5, 1.0 and 3. OMED) of UV-B radiation were displayed remarkable changes of barrier function and surface morphology. Trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) as an index of barrier function was measured by evaporimeter, and wrinkle density (WD) as an index of morphological alteration was measured by image analyzer. Significant changes of TEWL were not observed in the control and 0. SMED group, but 1.OMED and 3. OMED groups noted significant difference. TEWL of 3. OMED group was rapidly increased to the 3rd day and decreased until the 14th day when it reached nearly to normal level, Time-courses of TBWL for 1. OMEB and 3. OMED groups displayed similar pattern, but different only in the magnitude. WD were significantly decreased during the 3rd-5th day in all of the irradiated groups and then increased during the last period to the 14th day, but did not recover the normal level at the 14th day. Time-courses of WD for all groups exhibited similarity, and were entirely dependent on the exposed doses. We also observed histological changes which included hyperplasia, sunburn cell (SBC) formation, accumulation of polymorphonuclear leukocyte (PMNs), and loss of collagen of UVB- exposed hairless mouse skin. Changes of TEWL and WD are helpful in understanding of epidermal and dermal damages by single exposure of UVB.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.4 s.48
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• pp.439-444
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• 2004

UV irradiation produces free radicals and related reactive oxygen species (ROS), and these are injury to all most of organisms of skin cells and extracellular matrix (ECM). In addition, free radicals and ROS stimulate the overexpression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that can degrade most components of ECM such as collagen. Since collagen constitutes almost of skin connective tissue, their disarrangement causes wrinkle formation and droop of skin. Therefore, scavenging activity on free radicals, ROS and suppression of MMP-1 is expected to prevent skin photoaging. In this study, to investigate the relationship between photoaging and Draconis sanguis, we examined the effects of antioxidant, in vitro MMP inhibition and expression of UVA-induced MMP-1 in human dermal fibroblasts. Draconis sanguis was found to show scavenging activities of radicals and ROS with the $IC_{50}$ values of $183{\;}{\mu}g/mL$ against 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical and $30{\;}{\mu}g/mL$ against superoxide radicals in the xanthine/xanthine oxidase system, respectively. Draconis sunguis inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a does-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$ value calculated from semi-log plots was $200{\;}{\mu}g/mL$. Also, UVA induced MMP expression was reduced $74\%$ by treatment with Draconis sanguis, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore Draconis sanguis was able to significantly inhibit MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. All these results suggested that Draconis sanguis may act as an anti-photoaging agent by antioxidation and reducing UVA-induced MMP-1 production.