• Toxicological Research
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.285-291
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• 2003

The use of skin whitening agents has been recently increased in various kinds of cosmetic products, although there were some reports that whitening agents might cause allergic contact dermatitis. A murine local lymph node assay (LLNA) has been developed as an alternative to guinea pigs for contact sensitization potential. This study was carried out to investigate the skin sensitization potential of three whitening agents, arbutin, azelaic acid, and kojic acid, by LLNA using a non-radiois-topic endpoint. Female Balb/c mice were exposed topically to a weak allergen, $\alpha$-hexylcinnamalde-hyde (HCA), and three whitening agents following LLNA protocol. Lymph node (LN) weight and cell proliferation in ears and auricular lymph node using bromodeoxyuridine (BrdU) immunohistochemistry were evaluated. LN weights were significantly increased at the HCA group compared to the vehicle control. A weak allergen, HCA elicited 3-fold or greater increase in cell proliferation of lymph nodes as well as increase in cell proliferation of ear as measured by BrdU immunohistochemistry. However, in the case of skin whitening agent groups, there were no significant changes in LN weight and cell proliferation in the ear and lymph node of mice treated with 5, 10 and 20% of three whitening agents compared to the vehicle control. These results show that these three skin whitening agents may not have contact sensitization potentials at tested concentrations in Balb/c mice by LLNA.

• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.39-45
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• 1998

Kojic acid, antimelanogenic agent, has been widely used in cosmetics to lighten the skin color. However, it has skin irritancy and instability against pH, temperature and light. To overcome these problems and optimize the molecular structure of kojic acid (KA), a prodrug, kojic acid monostearate(KMS), has been synthesized to modify the topical drug delivery in the point of sustained release of the parent drug via enzymatic hydrolysis during skin absorption. The prodrug was tested for enzymatic hydrolysis with cytosolic fraction of hairless mouse, skin. From the in vitro skin permeation study through hairless mouse skin, we found that KMS was retained in the skin and generated KA continuously by the skin esterase cleavage. In addition, topical formulations of o/w type creams and polyolprepolymer-containing cream were further tested for whitening effects using in vivo yellow skin guinea pig model.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2007.11a
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• pp.129-139
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• 2007

Many modalities of treatment for acquired skin hyperpigmentation are available including chemical agents or physical therapies, but none are completely satisfactory. The ideal depigmenting compound should have a potent. rapid and selective bleaching effect on hyperactivated melanocytes, carry no short- or long-term side-effects and lead to a permanent removal of undesired pigment. acting at one or more steps of the pigmentation process. Depigmentation can be achieved by regulating (i) the transcription and activity of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase related protein-2 (TRP-2), and/or peroxidase; (ii) the uptake and distribution of melanosomes in recipient keratinocytes and (iii) melanin and melanosome degradation and turnover of pigmented keratinocytes. One of the interesting point for development of skin whitening agent is Mitf(Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor). Mitf belongs to the basic helix-loop-helix-zip family of trabscription factors and it is crucial as it regulates both melanocyte proliferation as well as melanogenesis and is the major regulator of tyrosinase and the related enzymes (TRPs), as well as many melanosome structural proteins such as pMel17. Recently, we developed MITF-down-regulating agents from natural and synthetic sources, which have anti-melanogenic effect on in vitro and in vivo. We suggested that potent MITF-down regulating agents might be used for skin whitening cosmeceuticals.

• Proceedings of the PSK Conference
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• 2003.04a
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• pp.294.2-295
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• 2003

Gentisic acid, a skin-whitening agent, is known to possess tyrosinase inhibition activity. In order to develop an effective skin-whitening agent, hydroquinone derivatives in which the carboxylic acid moiety of gentisic acid was replaced with various functional groups, were selected and evaluated for their ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity as well as to inhibit melanin release. (omitted)

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.161-164
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• 2002

Gentisic acid is a skin-whitening agent which inhibits the tyrosinase activity, an essential enzyme in the process of biological synthesis of melanin. Since melanin is synthesized in melanocytes located between the viable epidermis and dermis layer, drug amount delivered into the epidermis/dermis layer can provide valuable information for the biological effect of skin-whitening agents. The purpose of this study was to prepare the gentisic acid patches with 2% dodecylamine as enhancer, and to observe the in vitro skin permeation and in vivo skin deposition of gentisic acid. Gentisic acid in DuroTak 87-2510 patch formulation permeated across hairless mouse skin at the rate of $40.79\;{\mu}g/cm^2/hr$. In vivo study showed that the gentisic acid amount in both the stratum corneum and the viable epidermis/dermis increased with the increase of application time. The amount of gentisic acid in the stratum corneum was higher than that in the epidermis/dermis layer, and was expected to provide a reservoir effect even after removing the patches. Thus, the patch formulation seems to be useful for the topical delivery of skin-whitening agent into the epidermis/dermis layer, the target site.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.667-672
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• 2006

Tyrosinase is an enzyme that catalyzes the biosynthetic pathway of melanin pigments participating in the coloring of skin, hair, and eyes, and is widely distributed in nature. The inhibitory compounds of tyrosinase have been extensively used as a cosmetic agent with a skin-whitening effect. In this paper, several plant extracts were screened using Melan-a cells for the melanin biosynthesis inhibition activity, and Idesia polycarpa was selected. A melanin biosynthesis inhibitor was isolated from I. polycarpa fruits by activity-guided fractionation, and the inhibitor was identified as 6-hydroxy-2-[[[(1-hydroxy-6-oxo-2-cyclohexenl-yl)carbonyl]oxy]methyl]phenyl$\beta$-D-glucopyranoside (idescrapin) by comparing it with reported spectral data. Idescarpin $(IC_{50}=8{\mu}g/ml)$ reduced melanin content compared with the vehicle. In addition, the inhibitory activity of idescarpin for melanin synthesis is mediated by decreasing tyrosinase protein rather than directly inhibiting the tyrosinase activity. These results suggest that idescarpin isolated from I. polycarpa fruits may be used as a skin-whitening agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.209-217
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• 2007

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin from UV radiation and determines the race and skin color. Melanin is also major target for developing skin-whitening cosmeceuticals. Recently, as the market size of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals has rapidly expanded, related researches and developments are also focused on maximizing the safety and efficacy. Also, patents of skin-whitening materials have been increasing steadily for ensuring the competitive power. Patent also shows the research trend of industry and institutes. In this review, we analyze the trend of research and development based on the patent application of skin-whitening cosmeceuticals.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Applied Pharmacology
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• 2005.04a
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• pp.83-93
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• 2005

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.98-103
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• 2021

The demand for natural substances with anti-melanogenic activity is increasing due to the recent interest in skin whitening. Intensive investigation on the culture broth of Streptomyces sp. SCO-736, a marine bacterium from the Antarctica coast, has led to the isolation of a new natural product named antaroide (1). The chemical structure was established through the interpretation of MS, UV, and NMR spectroscopic data. Antaroide is a nine-membered macrolide with lactone and lactam moieties. To investigate its applicability in skin whitening cosmetics, its anti-melanogenic activity in B16F10 murine melanoma cells was examined. As a result, antaroide displayed strong inhibitory activities against melanin synthesis and also attenuated the dendrite formation induced by the α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH). Antaroide suppressed the mRNA expression of the melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, TRP-1 and TRP-2. This suggests that it may serve as a transcriptional regulator of melanogenesis. Collectively, the discovery of this novel natural nine-membered macrolide and its anti-melanogenic activity could give new insights for the development of skin whitening agents.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.201-212
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• 2003

The heartwood extract of Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb., which contains a potent tyrosinase inhibitor oxyresveratrol, was evaluated for its melanin-reducing efficacy in both guinea pigs and human volunteers. After 4 week-daily application of the extract dissolved in propylene glycol to the back of guinea pigs, significant reduction in melanin content was detected, with the effect greater than 3% kojic acid and solvent propylene glycol (P < 0.05). The extract was subsequently tested in female volunteers (3 groups of 20 subjects) using a parallel clinical trial with self-control. The first group received the A. lakoocha solution in propylene glycol whereas the second and the third group respectively received 0.25% licorice extract and 3% kojic acid in the same solvent. The subject in each group twice daily applied the test solution on one arm whereas the remaining arm was applied with only propylene glycol (self-control) for 12 weeks. The A. lakoocha extract was found to be the most effective agent, giving the shortest onset of significant whitening after only 4 weeks of application (P < 0.05), followed by 3% kojic acid (8 weeks) and 0.25% licorice extract (10 weeks). The whitening effect also increased with time, with the highest extent observed with A. lakoocha at week 12. The in vitro antityrosinase activity of A. lakoocha extract decreased with time upon storage at room temperature but could be stabilized by a combination of several antioxidants. In conclusion, the heartwood extract of A. lakoocha appeared to have promising potential for use as an effective and economical skin-whitening agent.