• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.1 s.55
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• pp.17-22
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• 2006

Phosphatidyiserine (PS) is a phospholipid which plays the structural role in membranes and serves as a cofactor of signaling enzymes for diverse cellular functions. In this study, we observed that topical treatment with PS significantly decreased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) induced by tape-stripping in hairless mice. Also, ceramides in epidermis were increased in PS-treated group compared to vehicle-treated one in vivo. the amounts of non-hydroxyl ceramide (NHCER) (1.4 fold) and glucosylceramide (glucosylCER) (1.6 fold), in the skin of hairless mice, were increased by topical treament with PS. Also, we demonstrated that PS stimulated keratinocyte differentiation. We observed that PS treatment morphologically altered normal human keratinocyte (NHK) from the proliferating phase to the differentiating one, suggesting that PS stimulated epidermal differentiation in NHK. We also showed that the expressions of the specific markers for epidermal differentiation, involucrin (INV) (3.5 fold up) and transglutaminase 1 (TG'ase 1) (3 fold up), were significantly increased by PS treatment, compared to untreated control in vitro. In addition, topical treatment with PS resulted in a progressive increase in INV and loricrin protein levels in vivo. In conclusion, we provide the first evidence for the physiological activities of PS in skin, and we suggest that PS strengthen the epidermal permeability harrier by stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.37-47
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• 2019

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at $400{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of ${\alpha}-MSH$ with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only ${\alpha}-MSH$ treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as $IL-1{\alpha}$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2016

The tight junction, one of Intercellular junctions, performs a variety of biological functions by bonding adjacent cells, including the barrier function to control the movement of the electrolyte and water. Recent studies have revealed that unusual expression of tight junction-related genes have been shown to be related in cancer development and progression. Recently, there are many reports that control of tight junction proteins expression is closely related to the skin moisture. In this study, we are focusing on the regulating mechanism of tight junction-associated genes by the steviol and its derivatives. Steviol, used as a sweetner, is known to chemical compound isolated from stevia plant. The MTS (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, inner salt) assay was carried out in HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) in order to determine the cytotoxicity. As a result, while steviol showing cytotoxicity from $250{\mu}M$, steviol derivatives are not cytotoxic more than $250{\mu}M$ concentration. We have observed a change in the tight junction protein via quantitative real-time PCR. Claudin 8 among tight junction proteins is only significantly reduced up to 30% in the presence of steviol. In addition, cell migration was inhibited by steviol, not by stevioside and rebaudioside. Finally, we could observe that steviol, not stevioside and rebaudioside, is able to increase the skin barrier permeability through the transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) measurements. These results suggest that the steviol and its derivatives are specifically acts on the tight junction related gene expression, but steviol derivatives are more suitable as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.173-182
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• 2013

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin disease associated with dysfunction of skin barrier and cutaneous hyper-reactivity to environmental triggers. In the previous study, cytotoxicity, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic activities were investigated for various herbal extracts such as Aloe vera L. (AV), Viola mandshurica W. Becker (VM), Punica granatum L. (PG), and Dendrobium nobile L. (DN) in order to develop effective therapeutic herbal extracts for atopic dermatitis, In this study, anti-inflammatory activities of these herb extracts in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-induced macrophage RAW264.7 cells were further examined to find the underlying molecular mechanisms. The RT-PCR (reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction) analysis showed that PG, DN and AV inhibited effectively the gene expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-$1{\beta}$ in LPS-stimulated macrophages, while VM did not. The transfection and luciferase analysis exhibited that all herbal extracts hindered the activation of transcription nuclear factor kappa B (NF-${\kappa}B$). The western blot analysis indicated that AV blocked the activation of only JNK MAP (c-Jun N-terminal kinase mitogen-activated protein) kinase not p38 MAP kinase, while VM, PG and DN did not show the activation of both JNK and p38 MAP kinases. These results suggest that AV, VM, PG, and DN have anti-inflammatory activities and thus have the potential to reduce and alleviate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.554-562
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• 2007

Ceramide rich intercellular lipid lamellae are thought to be particularly important in maintaining the structural integrity of epidermal barrier. Ceramide is synthesized de novo by serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) phospholipid intermediates, serine and palmitic acid persist within the stratum corneum. The ceramide which is synthesized is degraded with fatty acid and sphingosine by degradative enzyme ceramidase. The depletion of ceramide in stratum corneum was reported in the atopic dermatitis. As an effort to search for the dietary source for improving the level of ceramide in epidermis, the dietary effects of various-typed silk protein were compared. Seventy male NC/Nga mice, an animal model of atopic dermatitis, were divided into seven groups: group CA as an atopic control with control diet, group S: 1% crude sericin diet, group F: 1% crude fibroin diet, group PS : peptide pattern of sericin(Mw 5000), group PF: peptide pattern of fibroin (Mw 1500), group AS: manufactured the same as amino acid profile of sericin and group AF: manufactured the same as amino acid profile of fibroin. Ten male BALB/c mice were served as group C (control group) control diet. All mice were fed on diet and water ad libitum for 10 weeks. Dry skin condition was established in group CA as ceramide content was decreased. Despite a marked decrease of mRNA and prorein expression of SPT, enzyme do novo synthesis, ceramide content of group S was dramatically increased by inhibiting the mRNA and protein expression of degradative enzyme ceramidase. However, dietary supplementation of crude silk fibroin protein (group F) and in other groups that were supplemented with either amino acid or peptide type of sericin or fibroin did not increase the level of ceramide. Together, our data demonstrate that dietary supplementation of crude sericin is more effective at improving ceramide level in epidemis of NC/Nga mice.