• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.41-51
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• 1992

견사의 정연 방법으로는 알카리 용액에서 열을 이용하는 방법과 단백질 분해 효소를 이용하는 방법으로 크게 나눌 수 있는데 본 실험은 Bacillus licheniformis 단백질 분해 효소로 정연한 견사의 이화학적 특성과 열 처리 영향 및 효소 정연 견 피브로인 수용액의 특성을 비누 정연 견사와 비교하여 실험한 결과 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 정연 견사의 표면을 주사 전자현미경으로 관찰한 결과 정연 방법에 따른 뚜렷한 차이가 없었으며 정연 견사의 아미노산 조성을 분석한 결과에서도 정연 방법에 따른 큰 차이가 없었다. 2. 효소 정연 견사는 비누 정연 견사에 비하여 강력과 신도가 약간 저하되었고 점도도 비누 정연 견사의 0.59에 비하여 효소 정연 견사는 0.56으로서 저하된 반면 ($\alpha$＋$\varepsilon$) amino group content는 비누 정연견사의 49.5$\mu$mo1/g보다 효소 정연 견사는 53.6 $\mu$mol/g로서 증가되었으므로 효소 정연 견사는 비누 정연 견사보다 degradation이 더 일어난 것으로 추측된다. 3. 효소 정연 견사는 비누 정연 견사에 비하여 복굴절도가 높았으며 DSC thermogram에서 열 분해 온도도 약 1$0^{\circ}C$ 높았다. 또 효소 정연 견사의 IR 및 X-ray crystallinity도 각각 0.70과 0.53으로서 비누정연 견사의 0.67과 0.50에 비하여 약간 높았으므로 효소 정연 견사의 경우 결정성 및 배향성이 비누 정연 견사보다 높은 것으로 판단된다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 1982

This experiment was made on the basis of the general observation that silk fabrics is flaccid in sun light. The purpose of this test is to examine efficiency between the processed thread and the unprocessed one after putting the later under the xenon-lit system, which produces continuous spectrum of bright white beam similar to sun light. (i) Color division of silk thread : white, yellow blue (ii) light division and irradiation time : sun lightlongrightarrow210 hrs, Xenonlongrightarrow50,100, 150 hrs. Under the above conditions each object was be tested with and extensometer, TENSILON Type III for the results of (a) the weight-expansibility curve of the silk thread (b) the relationship between cutting in tensity and maximum, weight (c) maximum expansion rate (d) the expansion energy of the tested silk thread (e) the beginning pull-stretch resistance rate of the tested silk thread (f) color difference after processing The results are illustrated in the appropriate tables and figures. Consequently the generalobservation that silk fabrics is flaccid is relevant only in terms of color. So for as Cutting-intensaty is concerned, it turned out to be less flaccid than in color. On the contrary when the untested silk thread was conpared with the xenon-irradiated ones, the latter proved itself to be more flaccid in cutting expansibility than the former. We have learned through this experiment that, after the all rounds of this test, the color tone and chroma of the colored materials remained without significant change, where as their color value changed to a large extent.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.155-160
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• 1971

본 시험은 우리나라의 원료견질에 적합한 자동조사기의 기술체계를 확립하기 위한 연구로서 다음 결과를 얻었다. 1) 원료견 성상에 따른 생사량 및 조사능률을 감안한 합리적인 조사속도는 해서량호견(해서사장 850m)은 150m/min 내외, 해서중용견(해서사장 650m)은 120m/min 내외, 해서하량견(해서사장 500m)은 90~120m/min 이었다. 2) 건견온도별에 있어서 저온구(T$_3$)는 표준구(T$_1$) 및 고온구(T$_2$)에 비하여 해서율은 향상되나 사조고장은 증가하고 생사품위가 저하되었으며 생사량비율 및 부잠사양비율에 있어서는 유의차를 인정할 수 없었다. 3) 건견정도별에 있어서는 약건구(T$_3$)는 표준구(T$_1$) 및 과건구(T$_2$)에 비하여 해서율은 향상되었으나 사조고장이 증가하고 생사품위가 저하되었으며 생사량비율 및 부잠사량비율에 있어서는 유의차를 인정할 수 없었다. 따라서 자동조사의 합리적인 건견조건으로는 건견온도에 있어서 저온건견을 피하여 표준건견 내지 고온건견으로 하고 건견정도에 있어서는 약건을 피하여 표준건견내지 과건하는 방향으로 건조하는 것이 생사품위를 향상시키는데 적합하다고 사료된다. 4) 자동조사의 적합한 자견정도는 적자, 조사탕온도 4$0^{\circ}C$ 또는 약자, 조사탕온도 45$^{\circ}C$로 조절하여 주는것이 좋았다.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

Tropical tasar silkworm, Antheraea mylitta is a commercial forest silkworm in India that produces tasar silk, but never experimented in Uttarakhand, a Himalayan state of India. A. mylitta express divergent phenotypic characters under different ecological conditions; so, we studied the effect of seven forest tree species in two rearing seasons on variability in silk gland weight of Daba (bivoltine) ecorace of A. mylitta at Forest Research Institute in Dehra Dun, Uttarakhand during 2012 and 2013. We used two-way completely randomized block factorial design and Post HOC Tukey's HSD test to analyse the collected data and there after carried out multiple regression analysis. Results indicated that silk gland weight differed significantly between rearing seasons (DF=1, F=2333.98, p <0.05), host plants (DF 6, F= 1516.25, p <0.05) and their interactions (DF=6, F=7.10, p <0.05). Higher silk gland weight was found in second rearing season than the first on all the host tree species. Terminalia alata fed A. mylitta larvae showed the highest silk gland weight of 8.03 and 9.47 g in first and second rearing seasons, followed by T. tomentosa (7.19 & 9.01g), T. arjuna (6.8 & 8.08 g) and L. speciosa (6.57 & 7.83 g) fed larvae, respectively. Post HOC Tukey's HSD test indicated that silk gland weight of L. speciosa and T. arjuna fed larvae in both the rearing seasons did not differ significantly. E.I. analysis also confirmed that T. alata, T. tomentosa, T. arjuna and L. speciosa are better in their order of merit than T. bellirica , T. chebula and L. tomentosa. Multiple regression analysis indicates that larval weight gain is a strong predictor (β=1.002, t=346.777, p = <0.05) for the silk gland weight of A. mylitta ; however, larval duration had significant negative regression weight (β=-0.270, t=-8.436, p = <0.05) on mean weight of silk gland.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.22-23
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• 1981

The international raw silk grade classification method has been amended for several times since it has been created in 1932. S쳐h rather periodical changes have been raised as problems not because of it was created by scientifical research background or academical base but because of rather commercial aspect. This paper is, however, discussed by throughful academical aspect regardless raw silk sailers or buyers commercial interest. After carring a theoretical approach with thoroughful investigation on this matter, this paper happened to compare the current raw silk grade classification method against the developed theoretical silk grade classification method, which they happened to be much different each other. (omitted)

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.28-28
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• 2001

Four kinds of neutral sodium salts with different anions, NaF, NaCl, NaBr, and NaI, were added to the dye bath to accurately understand the effect of anions on the reactive dyeing of silk with C. I. Reactive Black 5. The sodium cation lowered the negative surface potential of the silk and increased the dye-uptake on fille fabric as reported previously. However, because of the discrepancy in the anions′inhibition power from cation′s lowering the surface negative potential the amount of the dye on the silk fiber was different from each other in the order of $F^-\;>\;Cl^-\;>\; Br^-\;>\;I^-$. The activation energy($E_a$) for the dyeing was in the order of $F^-\;>\;Cl^-\;>\; Br^-\;>\;I^-$ but the dye-uptake on the fabric and the activation free energy(Δ$G^*$), the real energy barrier for the reaction, were in the order of $F^-\;>\;Cl^-\;>\; Br^-\;>\;I^-$ because the strength of the interaction of the anions with sodium cations was the same as the order of the latter. In other words $F^-$ exerted the weakest electrostatic force on $Na^+$and competed with the dyestuff anions least of all. The decrease in Δ$S^*$may be due to the looesly bonded activated complex of dyestuff anions, sodium cations and fiber molecules at transition state. It was clarified from the Bronsted equation that sodium salts with different anions also had fille ionic strength effect and the specific salt effect on the reactive dyeing.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국섬유공학회 2001년도 가을 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.123-126
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• 2001

실크는 우수한 광택, 촉감, 물성을 바탕으로 하여 인류에 있어 최고의 의류용 섬유로서 널리 이용되어 왔으며 최근에는 생체적합성 등을 활용한 의료용 및 생물공학용 소재로서 응용하고자 하는 연구가 활발히 진행 중에 있다[1-2]. 그러나 실크의 경우 누에로부터 얻어지는 천연섬유로서 합성섬유와는 달리 누에로부터 토사되면서 그 구조 및 형태가 결정되어 고정되는 단점을 안고 있어 의류용 및 산업용 분야로의 활용에 있어 한계가 있다. (중략)

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.333-338
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• 2006

Silk fibroin (SF) fiber from the Antheraea pernyi silkworm was treated with a 1.23 N iodine-potassium iodide ($I_2-KI$) aqueous solution, and the structure and physical properties were investigated to clarify the effects of the iodine treatment. The noticeably high weight gain value of SF fiber, about 25 wt% was attributed to the absorption of polyiodide ions in the form of $I_3{^-}\;and\;I_5{^-}$. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and X-ray diffraction measurements suggested that polyiodide ions mainly entered the amorphous region. In addition, a new sharp reflection on the meridional direction, corresponding to a period of $7.0{\AA}$, was observed and indicated the possibility of the formation of mesophase structure of ${\beta}$-conformation chains. Dynamic viscoelastic measurements showed that the damping tan ${\delta}$ peak at $270^{\circ}C$ gradually shifted to lower temperature in the iodinated SF fibers, suggesting an enhancement of the molecular motion of the fibroin chains induced by the presence of polyiodide ions. With heating above $254^{\circ}C$, the iodine component introduced intermolecular cross-linking of SF, and the melt flow of the sample was inhibited. The thermal decomposition stability of fibroin molecules was greatly enhanced by iodine treatment.