• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2022

This paper aims to analyze the different external images of women expressed in ancient artwork through the socio-cultural background and the aesthetic view during the Tang and Song dynasties of China. The research method contains a literature review involving the collection of historical literature, thesis, and artwork data. The image of women according to the aesthetic view of the two periods is summarized as follows. In terms of face shape, the Tang pursued a round face while the Song pursued a more slender shape. As for hair ornamentation, the Tang wore various shapes of hair buns like "Paojiaji", and decorated them with coronets. The Song wore various types of braided hair called "Tongxinji", but the coronets were smaller and more sophisticated. For makeup, the Tang wore colorful and heavy makeup and the Song makeup was lighter and more elegant. In attire, the Tang followed revealed shape, used splendid colors and thin, transparent material. The Song exhibited a more simple design and was conservative and neat, using luxurious silk fabric with low chroma. In body shape, the Tang pursued the "beauty of obesity" with a voluptuous body shape; the Song pursued the "beauty of gaunt" with a slim body shape. As the result of the analysis according to the aesthetic views of the Tang and Song dynasties, women of Tang were depicted as rich, and women of Song were rather neat. The research on the aesthetic views that changed according to the development of social civilization and the status of women will play an active role in the transmission and development of traditional Chinese culture. At this point, the paper may contribute to the creation of images of women as well as changes in the art of future generations.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제5권
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• pp.25-38
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• 1965

I. Breeding of tussah silkworm(preliminary report). The preliminary examination for bleeding has been carried out since 1963 in tussah silkworms. 1) The strain(l-MG-B)of the heaviest silk quantity was the green silkworm and brown cocoon in univoltine, and the strains(2-G-B, 2-MG-B) of the heaviest silk quantity were also the green silkwom and brown cocoon in bivoltine in both spring and fall in 1965. 2) It looks like the voltinism, the body color and the cocoon color have reached to pure line up to 1965. II. Best place for the winter of tussah pupa. This work was aimed to find out good ways for the winter of tussah pupa. 1) The hatch of bivoltine was better than that of univoltine. 2) The cocoons covered with the leaves were good in the emergence of moth. 3) The cocoons which were kept at natural temperature till the first emergence of moths would show bad in both hatch and emergence. 4) If some of the pupae kept under natural condition were controled at proper temperature for a few days, hatch and laying eggs were best. 5) The best places for the winter were the egg storage and the rearing room. III. Relation between incubation temperature and voltinism. 1) When the tussah pupa are kept at natural temperature during winter, the moths do not come out of the pupa. 2) There is no difference between about 18$^{\circ}C$ and about 25$^{\circ}C$ during incubation in hatching ratio. 3) The tussah silkworms of univoltine in mortality are stronger than that of bivoltine. 4) There is not any relation between voltinism and high or low temperature for pupa and eggs. IV. Induced mutation by gamma-ray and neutron in tussah silkworm. This work was carried out in order to induce the mutation by treating the pupa or the eggs of tussah silkworm with gamma my and neutron. The results obtained are as follows. 1. Though the whole pupa treated with neutron become moths, the moths have no ability to copulate each other. The only moths emerged from pupa treated with neutron, 4000${\gamma}$ are able to lay all un-fertilized eggs, some of which have a hole on the surface and nothing of contents. 2. The non-diapause eggs are treated with neutron in spring, but the hatching ratio is 50∼60 percent, but the whole eggs treated with gamma ray are never hatched. 3. The sensitivity of the pupa to neutron is weaker than that of the eggs. 4. The hatching ratio is in direct proportion to the gamma ray dose. 5. Author find out a new mutant which is excellent in the cocoon quality, so he will do the progeny test next hear.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 인체에 유해한 용매를 사용하지 않고 누에 실샘으로부터 가수분해물을 제조하는 새로운 공정을 개발하였다. 제조된 누에 실샘 가수분해물의 특성 분석을 통해 누에고치 유래 세리신 가수분해물(CSH)과 구성 성분 및 물성이 상이함을 확인하였다. 또한 1 mg/ml 수용성 누에 실샘 가수분해물(SSGH)을 첨가한 경우 10% FBS를 첨가한 대조군과 동등한 세포 증식효과가 있음을 증명하였다. 결론적으로 누에 실샘 가수분해물은 혈청을 대체할 수 있는 우수한 소재임을 확인하였다. 본 연구에서 개발한 제조방법을 통해 생산된 누에 실샘 가수분해물은 향후 화장품 및 의료용 소재로 그 응용범위를 확대할 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The shroud of the Chosun dynasty period originally meant the new start in the next world. Its basic principle was to wear the best clothes or wedding garments during one's life. The white hemp cloth-shroud worn during this time was formed after the 20th century. In the beginning it started simply by imitating the shroud of the common people. However recently many aspects of the trade have deteriorated by the commercialism of the shroud traders. So this study focuses on the way of keeping traditions and making the shroud desirable. First, the shroud was made of the best materials such as silk, hemp cloth, ramie cloth and cotton cloth in the past. A thought that the shroud material must be white hemp cloth is the result from misunderstanding of the traditional shroud of the Chosun dynasty period. We can produce beautiful shrouds using natural materials without losing dignity and at diverse prices. Second, the shroud was produced not only to keep the dignity of a dead person but also to avoid wasting the original cloth. Third, The shroud has pursued diversity in classifying the traditional style or the basic style. It is possible to select the shroud flexibly according to one's sense of values or the way the tomb was made. These days, the Korean full-dress attire and Wonsam (Korean woman's ceremonial clothes) are the standardized form of the ready-made shroud. The man's Korean full-dress attire on sale is sewn in the wrong way and its shape looks more like the Wonsam. I offer diverse shrouds of the Chosun dynasty period, for example, the official uniform, hemp cloth upper garment, men's black upper garment, Korean full-dress attire, Korean overcoat, Wonsam, the long hood worn by a Korean woman and a woman's long upper garment, so that we can see the Korean originality and beauty through the different types of shrouds. Also, I adjusted a number of items, undergarments and other articles according to the price. As mentioned before this study helps to portray a desirable understanding of the culture of the shroud. So I corrected many problems of the present shroud and propose a new type of shroud based on tradition. Furthermore, I recommend a way of making use of the Hanbok which the man wears during his life, at the wedding ceremony or a his 60th birthday without buying a new shroud.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제38권3호
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• pp.243-253
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 청송심씨묘 출토 금직물 유물 2점(부금 원삼, 직금 치마)에 대한 비파괴 분석방법을 이용하여 유물 상태, 섬유 재질, 표면 오구(汚垢), 금속사에 대한 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 출토 당시 유물의 상태는 모두 갈변되어 본래의 색상을 확인할 수 없으며, 섬유재질은 SEM과 FT-IR의 Amide I, II, III, IV 피크와 정색 반응 결과들로 누에고치로부터 얻은 견 섬유임을 확인할 수 있었다. 표면 오염물인 흰색 오구와 검정색 오구는 FT-IR, XRF 분석결과 시신의 부패와 미생물 분해로 나타난 지방질, 단백질 등의 가수분해 물질임을 확인할 수 있었다. 금속사의 금박층을 XRF로 분석한 결과 금(Au)으로 확인되었으며, 금속사 배지에 대한 FT-IR, 정색 반응 결과 배지의 접착제 성분은 Amide I, II, III와 3000 cm^-1 전·후의 Amide A, B의 결과로 동물성 교(膠)로 확인되었고, 배지는 정색 반응 결과 국내에서 생산된 닥나무 인피 섬유인 한지로 확인할 수 있었다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제39호
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• pp.637-667
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• 2019

8~9세기 무렵 인도네시아는 세계3대 불교 유적에 드는 보로부두르 대탑을 건설하였지만 오늘날 인도네시아에서 불교신자를 만날 수가 없고, 인구 대부분이 무슬림이다. 그리하여 본고에서는 이슬람적 사회·문화 풍토 속에 불교적 산물인 보로부두르의 공연 예술이 어떻게 연결되고 있는지를 현지 조사를 통하여 조명해 보았다. 불교왕국이었던 샤일렌드라왕조는 사라졌지만 그들의 문화는 이어지는 힌두왕조와 융합적 관계를 유지하며 존속하였다. 16~17세기 인도네시아에 이슬람이 유입될 당시 합리적 온건주의인 수니파 독경사(讀經師)들은 기존의 신행을 문화로 포용하였다. 그 결과 오늘날까지도 인도네시아 사람들은 아랍풍 이름 보다 "쉬리, 라마, 시타, 아르주나"와 같은 인도풍 이름과 함께 라마야나 주인공들이 행하는 인도문화적 덕목을 추구하고 있다. 오늘날 인도네시아의 불교 인구는 1%에도 미치지 못하지만 보로부두르에 새겨진 주악도는 인도네시아의 공연 문화 곳곳에서 발견되었다. 보로부두르 부조에 보이는 궁중악사의 춤사위와 똑 같은 동작으로 춤 추는 악인들이 있었고, 각종의 공연예술에서도 부로부두르의 주악도를 연상시키는 모습들이 발견되었다. 그런가하면 한국의 사찰에서 발견되는 긴나라나 가루다, 간다르바 등, 힌두 신화속 뮤즈들이 같으면서도 다른 모습으로 존재하고 있었다. 인도네시아의 가믈란은 종교의식 및 궁중·마을 행사에서 시작되어 현재는 그림자극, 인형극, 타악 앙상블 등 여러 장르로 분파되었다. 이는 대부분의 전통 공연이 무속을 비롯한 기타 종교의식에서 출발하여 공연예술화 되는 것과 궤를 같이한다. 한국 사찰에서의 법기 타주와 이에 수반되는 의례악가무는 조선시대 억불을 맞아 걸립패와 유랑악사들의 탁발의 도구가 되었고, 오늘날 풍물놀이, 사물놀이 및 기타 공연예술의 자양분이 되었다. 이러한 점에서 인도네시아의 타악합주 가믈란과 한국불교의 법구 타주는 다양한 예술장르를 파생 시키는 문화 예술의 원류로써 중요한 키워드이다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.21-48
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• 1974

본 연구는 fibroin을 피복하여 견섬유의 경막적 성질을 지배하는 sericin에 대한 일연의 연구를 수행하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. I. Sericin Fraction의 물리화학적 특성에 관한 실험 1) 난용성 sericin은 역용성 sericin에 비하여 polar side chain을 가진 amino산(Tyr, Ser)은 적은 반면 alanine과 leucine 등의 수화성이 적은 amino산이 측정되었다. 2) 수화성의 amine산은 견사의 외층부에서, 그리고 수화성이 적은 amino산은 fibroin에 가까운 부위에 많이 존재하였다. 3) 용수에 대한 sericin의 팽윤, 용해성은 alnino산 조성만으로 해석하기는 곤란하며 sericin의 결정구조나 이차구조와의 복합구조로 변화한다고 생각된다. 4) 견사의 간섭은 환상에 가까우나 정연처리로서 소멸하였다. 5) 작잠견 sericin은 가잠견 sericin과 차이가 있었는데 자오선상에 강한 환상 Ring이 많았다. 6) Mosher 법으로 분별한 A와 B fraction 사이의 amino산 조성에는 차이가 없었다. 7) Sericin I, II, III의 X-선도에 있어서는 큰 차이는 인정되지 않으나 측쇄간격에 해당 하는 Ring에서 차이가 인정되었다. 8) 분자량 150이상의 amino산(Cys, Tyr, Phe, His,Arg)은 6N-HCl, 60분의 가수분해로서 정양되지 않았다. 9) 4.6$\AA$의 X-선 간섭은 습열과 ether 및 alcohol로 처리하므로서 소멸하는 경향이었다. 10) sericin의 가수분해물(6N-HCl)은 자오선상에 간섭 Ring(2$\AA$)을 출현시켰다. 11) 가수분해 sericin 잔사는 어느 특정한 amino산의 peptide로 추정된다. 12) Seriein III의 분해온도는 Sericin I과 II보다 높았다. 13) 견층 부위별 sericin의 D.T.A 곡선에 었어서, 내층의 sercin은 15$0^{\circ}C$와 245$^{\circ}C$에서 흡열 peak가 나타나고 외, 중층의 것보다 고온측에 이동하였다. 14) IR-spectrum에 의한 sericin fraction(Sericin I, II, III, 외층, 중층 및 내층의 sercin)의 적외선흡수 결과는 일치하였다. II. 제사공정에서의 Sericin의 팽윤, 용해특성에 관한 실험 1) 3,000 R.P.M으로 침지처리된 견층의 자유성수분은 15분간으로 탈수가 가능하고 이 경우의 원심력은 13$\times$$10^4$dyne/g 이었다. 2) sericin에 대한 Folin시약의 발색에 필요한 시간은 실온에서 30분이었다. 3) 가시광선중 측정가능파장은 500~750m$\mu$이다. 4) 실제 비색정량의 경우 정도가 높은 측정치를 얻기 위해서는, 저농도(10$\mu\textrm{g}$/$m\ell$)인 때는 650m$\mu$에서 그 이상의 농도에서늘 500m$\mu$으로 측정해야 했다. 5) sericin과 egg albumin의 파장별 흡광도곡선형은 일치하나 흡광도는 sericin이 높았다. 6) 비색분석법에 의하여 측정된 sericin의 량은 Kjeldahl 법에 비해 적은 값을 나타냈다. 7) 견층의 팽윤, 용해도에 영향하는 처리조건으로서는 온도와 시간으로서 시간보다도 온도의 방과가 켰다. 8) 팽윤, 용해도를 촉진하는 처리온도와 시간과의 관계는 저온(7$0^{\circ}C$)에서는 시간의 증가에 따라서 팽윤, 용해도는 서서히 증대하나 고온에 있어서는 단시간의 처리로 현저히 증대했다. 9) 생견의 건조온도가 높아지면 견층의 팽윤, 용해도는 반대로 감소했다. 10) 견층의 두께가 크게 되면 일정시간에 있어서의 팽윤, 용해성은 저하하였다. 11) 견층부위별 팽윤, 용해성은 외>중>내층의 순이고 품종에 따라서는 견층부위별로 차이가 있었다. 12) 견층의 납물질제거처리를 하게 되면 sericin의 팽윤, 용해성은 대조구에 비해 감소하였다. 13) 음 ion 활성제는(pH 6.0 부근) sericin의 팽윤, 용해도를 촉진시켰다. 14) 양 ion 활성제는 위와 같은 조건에서 sericin 의 흡착현상을 나타내었다. 15) 경도성분(Ca, Mg)의 농도가 증가하면, 용수의 pH는 발성방향으로 이동하였다. 16) 용수중의 경도성분과 sericin과는 서로 완충작용을 나타내었다. 17) Ca와 Mg의 경도성분이 sericin의 팽윤, 용해에 미치는 영향을 비교하면 Ca 성분이 팽윤, 용해를 억제하였 다. 18) 용수중의 경도성분의 용존은 전기전도도를 증가시켰다.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.175-182
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• 2002

A new high yielding mulberry genotype, Victory-1 (V-1) was recommended to the field for irrigated areas by Central Sericultural Research and Training Institute (CSRTI), Mysore during 1996-1997. As K-2 and S-36 mulberry genotypes are already in the field, a study on the comparative performance of V-1, 5-36 and K-2 varieties, in terms of leaf yield, yield attributes, leaf moisture and moisture retaining capacity and their impact on silkworm rearing was carried out under Telangana conditions of Andhra Pradesh during 1999-2001. Among the three genotypes the leaf yield was found to be significantly (P < 0.01) higher in V-1 (64,130 kg/ha/yr) followed by S-36 (44,064 kg/ha/yr) and K-2 (23,990 kg/ha/yr). The maximum leaf moisture was also observed in V-1 (71.84%) compared to S-36 (66.86%) and K-2 (64%). The moisture retaining ability was more in V-1 (70.17%) followed by S-36 (66.20%) and K-2 (60.08%). The yield attributes were found to be significantly (P < 0.01) enhanced in V-1 over S-36 and K-2. Silkworm rearing results (bioassay) indicated a significant (P < 0.01) reduction in larval duration and improvement in larval weight, effective rate of rearing by number and weight, single cocoon and shell weights and shell ratio in the silkworm lots fed on V-1 variety followed by S-36 and K-2. Hence, in this study, V-1 was found to be superior among the three varieties studied.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.33-41
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• 2004

The type of trichomes, their density and pattern of distribution on leaves of 16 genotypes of mulberry, belonging to both diploid and polyploid categories, were studied by scanning electron microscope. The present investigation was undertaken to find out the relationship of physical attributes, especially the density and trichome types with higher acceptability and better rearing performance by the silkworm Bombyx-mori L. Two types of trichomes glandular and non-glandular types were observed on both the leaf surfaces of all the mulberry genotypes studied. In general, greater densities of trichomes were observed on the abaxial surface than the adaxial surface of leaves in most of the genotypes. Distribution of glandular trichomes were more in abaxial surface and non-glandular trichomes were more in adaxial surface. Overall, distribution of glandular and non-glandular trichomes per unit area of leaf did not follow any regular pattern. When leaves of those genotypes were fed to silkworms, trichome density was found to be significantly negatively correlated with the survival of larvae i.e., effective rate of rearing, but trichome density did not influence the economic characters of rearing. As the distribution of glandular trichomes (GT) and non-glandular trichomes (NGT) did not follow any definite pattern, no relation could be established between the GT and NGT densities with silkworm rearing performance. However, the ratio of GT and NGT in a particular genotype influenced the rearing parameters, higher the ratios better the rearing performance. High GT and NGT ratio (＞1.00) was found positively significant when correlated with economic parameters viz., larval weight, single cocoon weight and single shell weight. The study is useful in screening different mulberry genotypes for their better acceptability to silk-worm and higher rearing performance at the early stage of selection without actually conducting the rearing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.12-31
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• 1997

This is a study on the changes of the ancient underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Functions of underclothes are follow ; to protect the body from cold, to support the shape of the costume, to cleanliness, to erotic use of underclothes and as a method of class distinction. Linen is the oldest as materials and cotton came into general use after the Restoration of 1660. We must suppose that woolen petticoat was at least as old as the Middle Ages and silk was rarely used until late in Victorian times. Until the middle of the last century underclothes were necessarily hand-made, and the absence of fit was noticeable until the introduction of man\`s drawers, fitting the leg, at the close of the eighteen century. Strings and ribbons were the fastenings for underclothes until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by buttons. One outstanding example of the first type of figures is a Babylonian girl of about 3000 BC from Sumeria who wears that today would immediately be described as briefs. Female statues show no trace of anything being worn under the chiton, but there is literary evidenced that the Greeks. A band of linen of kid was bound round the waist and lower torso to shape and control it. It was known as the Zone or girdle. The apodesmos, meaning a band, breast band, occurs in a fragment of Aristophanes. A Roman mosaic shows female athletes wearing a bikini-briefs and bra in the fourth century AD. A similar band, called the mastodeton, or breast band, was also worn round the bust, apparently to flatten or minimise it, as in the 1920s, and not, to stress its curves. In Rome, too, women sometimes wore bands of material round the hips and bust-a cestus or girdle is referred to by the poet Martial and seems to have been similar to the zone, but wider, and the strophium, or breast band, is mentioned by Cicero.