• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.6 s.85
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• pp.42-50
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• 2005

Silk fabrics are widely used as high quality cloth, interior, quilting and bedding materials because of having excellent touch, drape, resilience and low specific gravity characteristics. But, many waste silk materials are produced during the reeling, spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing processes. From this fact, the recycle of waste silks is interested in studying for the application of industrial textile materials such as filter, oil absorbent and wound protector. Thus, this research has surveyed the decolorizing and carding characteristics in order to recycle the colored waste silk materials. As the results, the carding condition of waste silk fabrics was optimized with different fiber lengths and curding passage. In addition, the fiber failure mechanism from the wasted silk microdamage caused by carding process was investigated. Also it was found that longitudinal and transverse cracks, abrasion and pilling were formed on the surface of wasted silk fibers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.412-421
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• 2012

The yerba mate that grows in the subtropical forests of South America is an evergreen tree within the Aquifoliaceae family. The yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) tea is habitually used as a drink in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and Southern Brazil. A wild mate tree needs about 25 years to fully grow to 15 a height of meters; however, they only grow to a height of 3-5 meters when cultivated. The leaves are 7-11 cm long and 3-5cm wide with a serrated margin. Yerba mate tea-based beverages are made from the leaves and stems of the mate tree. It is known that they contain a rich content of antioxidants and polyphenol, vitamins, amino acids, minerals and colorants. Dyeing properties of a mate plant in the silk, wool, linen and cotton fabrics were investigated. Constituents of colorant of mate tea are chlorophyll and carotinoid; in addition, it has more minerals such as (Fe, Ca, Mn, Mg, Na, K, Zn, and Cu) than green tea. Mate tea colorants showed good affinity to silk and wool fabrics. It was found that the optimum condition for dyeing was 30 minutes for dyeing time, 7 for pH of dyebath, and at a dyeing temperature of $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum absorbance wavelength (${\lambda}_{max}$) of silk and wool fabrics dyed with mate tea were at 420-440nm; however, that of linen and cotton fabrics were at 400nm. K/S values of fabrics dyed under optimum conditions were 1.979 for silk fabrics, 1.541 for wool fabrics, 0.551 for linens and 0.465 for cotton fabrics. Munsell hue values of dyed fabrics measured 3.1Y-6.4GY for silk, 1.4Y-8.3Y for wool, 5.5Y-3.7GY for linen, and 5.3Y-1.3GY for cotton. All dyed fabrics showed hues in-between greenish yellow and greenyellow. Colorfastness to rubbing, perspiration and dry-cleaning of dyed fabrics with mate tea were very good; however, the grades of colorfastness to washing of dyed linen and cotton fabrics were poor, and colorfastness to light were poor.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.27
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• pp.13-19
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was the efficient use of the black rice bran for dyeing textiles. For this purpose, we investigated proper extracting conditions of black rice bran, dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. To find proper extracting condition of black rice bran, we extracted black rice bran with water at different temperatures($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), different extracting pH(pH3, pH4, pH5, pH6) and extracting time(20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180min.). Also we investigated the effect of dyeing time(1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6hr.), dyeing temperature($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$) and mordanting method(non, pre, sim, post) to examine dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. As a result, when the extracting temperature and time were $80^{\circ}C$, 3hr., respectively, extracting was best. And the higher the extracting concentration, the more the extracting amount. As the dyeing temperature and time were higher and longer, the dyeability of silk fabrics was better. With mordant, the dyeability was improved and when using premordant method better, the K/S value was maximized. The laundering fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with black rice bran was estimated to have a good grade of 3~4, however, the light fastness was poor to have a grade of 1~2.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.18
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• pp.19-34
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• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.41-53
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• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the hand of spring/fall fabrics for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' on subjective hand, objective hand and the preference. In this study, 28 varieties of spring/fall fabrics such as cotton fabrics, synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric for 'Saenghwal Hanbok' are used. To evaluate the subjective hand of fabrics, the holistic touch and preferences, 33 seven ranks' segmentic differential scale questions are developed with adjective pairs and are gathered by surveying experts on clothes. The mechanical properties, HV and THV of them are measured and calculated by KES-FB system. Through subjective hand, items could be classified into six hand expressions: 'bulky/extensibility', 'stiffness', 'feeling of weight', 'surface property', 'drapability' and 'moisture property'. Through mechanical properties, the results indicated that the character of cotton fabrics are slight flexible, tough, rough, uneven, a bit heavy, thick and low resilience on tensile and compression, and then those of synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk fabric are thin and light, smooth, flat and bulkless. In correlation on subjective evaluations and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok', cotton fabrics mainly depend on 'surface property' and 'moisture property' and then synthetic fabrics, blended fabrics and a silk depend on 'bulky/extensibility' and 'surface property' In correlation on objective hand and the preference for 'Saenghwal Hanbok'. people aren't satisfied with low resilience. high stiffness and low drape.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1129-1140
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• 2009

The pine needles has been used as medicines and it is using as dyeing as well as food. It is distributed through 50% in Korean forest. The pine needles is related to antimicrobial activity, however, dyeing properties of the extract components and effects of them are not well known yet. To examine dyeing properties of the pine needles extract, various fabrics(nylon, silk, wool, and soybean) were dyed under different dyeing conditions, and mordanted with one of five mordants(Al, Sn, Fe, Cr, and Cu). Dye uptake, Colors and Colorfastness of the dyed fabrics were measured. By the K/S values, dye uptake of all the dyed fabrics enhanced as increasing dyeing temperature and dyeing time. The highest K/S values were obtained from the protein fiber(wool and silk) fabrics dyed with water extract at $100^{\circ}C$, and with ethanol extract at $90^{\circ}C$ for 80 minutes. Colors of the dyed fabrics showed variety of yellow, brown and green colors. Colors changed by using Cu, Fe and Cr mordants: Cr-mordanted fabrics into light green, Fe-mordanted fabrics into reddish brown, and Cu-mordanted fabrics into deep green in ethanol extraction. Dry-cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics presented good to excellent except wool fabrics dyed with ethanol extract. Washing fastness of the dyed nylon and soybean fabrics were good to excellent but wool and silk fabrics showed average grades. Most dyed fabrics were poor to light fastness.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.795-801
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• 2016

This study was conducted to suggest the best union fabric to combine with cellulose fiber for summer and in-between seasons. Four types of union fabric, viz. silk/flax, silk/cotton, rayon/flax and rayon/cotton, were used as sample fabrics after weaving them in a local textile factory. The air permeability, moisture regain, water absorption, water vapor permeability and thermal insulation of the samples were tested. The results are as follows. The rayon/flax union fabric is the most suitable for summer clothes due to its having the best comfort property of air and water vapor permeability, and moisture and water absorption. For in-between seasons, it is recommended to use the silk/cotton union fabric because of its good thermal insulation properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.877-884
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• 2005

The importance and usefulness of a subjective evaluation of the sensorial properties of scoured silk fabrics is discussed. Silk fabric was treated at 12 different scouring rates and the scoured fabrics were used as specimens. Using paired comparisons, three trained subjects, evaluated seven subjective sensorial properties; softness, elasticity, drape, stiffness, crispness, and luster. A quad experimental design was adopted as an effective and reliable evaluation method. Results showed that some properties such as drape, luster were easily discriminated depending on the scouring rates whereas the smoothness was not easily discriminated. As the scouring rate increased, it was hard to discriminated the softness, drape, and stiffness, which indicates there is an optimum scouring rates to have a certain sensorial properties. It was suggested that these results should be applied to the manufacturing process.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2001

To improve the dyeability and colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with natural dye of safflower, cotton and silk fabrics were pre-treated with different mordants such as halliic-acid, alum, brine and tannic-acid. Also, to investigate the effect of finishing treatment of fabrics on dyeability, cotton was treated with chitosan and mercerized before dyeing. L, a, b, ΔE and colorfastness(light, Laundry, sweat) of each samples were measured and compared. Mordant treatment didn't improved significantly dyeability and colorfastness on cotton and silk. But, on cotton mercerization and chitosan treatment improved dyeability and colorfastness. To compare the efficiency of extracted dye and Powered dye, extracted red dye of safflower prepared as powder. Cotton and silk were dyed with dyeing solution which made with powdered dye according to different concentration. Efficiency of powdered dye was found out lower than extracted dye solution.