• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.129-142
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• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.220-233
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to reviews the Chinesm expressed in the modern fashion world after the year 2000, and underlines the characteristics of Chinesm, as the Chinese fashion market is getting bigger and becomes the cynosure of the world. The method of this study is by research on precedence as well as related researches in Korean and foreign books. The results were as follows. First, the Chinesm recreates the historic motive which is the traditional costume, ornaments, or make-up etc. to maintain the harmony between the modernity and the past, preventing from following or mimicking. Second, the Chinesm expresses the combinational and harmonious manner with the combined image on the Chinese original symbolic factors mixing with the foreign spatial-temporal elements, the various styles of wear and decoration, and the different images to have the natural or equivocal relationship with one another. Third, The Chinesm magnifies the feminine atmosphere to express the sensual image by using effectively the traditional design factors, which is tight silhouette, coverture, and exposure. Fourth, the Chinesm professes the pro-naturalism embracing the human without conflicting with the human nature. It seems possible on the new value mixed with colors, materials, or patterns, etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.14-23
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• 2009

This study is to analyze the regional differences of sensibility image of wedding dress design for single women of marriageable age in Ulsan and Seoul. The conclusions of this study were as follows. In silhouette, both of two regions were not significant differences but within the same sensibility image there was a bit of differences. In neckline, reminded sweetheart of pure image, yet those of Ulsan reminded sweetheart of feminine image. Both of two regions reminded V of hard image, boat of feminine image, square of hard image, halter of complex image. But within the same sensibility image there was a bit of differences between two regions. Oval was significant differences between two regions. Subject of Ulsan reminded oval of mature image, yet those of Seoul reminded oval of elegance image. It was reminded ruffle of complex image. Subject of Ulsan reminded china of hard image, yet those of Seoul reminded china of calm image. In material, it was not significant differences between two regions, but within the same sensibility image there was a bit of differences between two regions. In detail, subject of Ulsan reminded ruffle of messy image, yet those of Seoul reminded ruffle of complex image. Both of two areas reminded ribbon of pure image, button of pure image. Subject of Ulsan reminded beads of feminine image, yet those of Seoul reminded beads of pure image. In conclusion, it could be said that there was no major differences in sensibility image for wedding dress design between Ulsan and Seoul.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.613-631
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to collect and analyze costumes presented in international dance sports competitions, and summarize the features of Latin American dance costumes' design. As for research methods, standards of Latin American dance costume design were analyzed via a literature review on dance sports. The scope of the study extended for six years from 2010 to 2015 to include the, top three UK Latin American dance competitions. The results are as follows. First, the silhouette analysis determined that the X silhouette to the lead with, -145 costumes (78%), followed by the H silhouette at 25 (13%), and other at 16 (9%). Amongst those there were 174 one-piece dresses (94%). Furthermore, the analysis on colors of Latin American dance sports costumes revealed that, amongst the 186 costumes, 115 were without color (62%), Bl(black) is the most frequent with 37%, then Wh(white) with 21% and Gr(gray) with 4%. Costumes with colors, based on the six basic colors in the Munsell color system, are comprised most often of red with 12%, the followed by Y(yellow) at 10%, B(blue) at 8%, YR(yellow-red) at 4%, P(purple) at 2%, and G(green) at 2%. Thirdly, the cloth materials of Latin American dance costumes are recognized through image inspection. Among visually recognizable materials, beading materials are the most common with 104 costumes (60%). Shiny materials like mesh, chiffon, organza, lace and burn-out are in 36 costumes in total (19%). Other cloth materials included Luster materials and; non-sheen materials, which were in 46 costumes (25%).

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.117-130
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• 1997

The purpose of this study were to identify the design elements and the changing flow of advertisement from 1970's to 1990's by using content analysis of men's magazines. Finding were as followed; First through the analysis of men's wear advertisement in magazine it was found that the closer to 1990's the more various men's wear styles and backgrounds were advertized. These were more image oriented than product oriented. Since 1980 the advertisement about the licenced and the imported brands have been increased and the serial advertisement has shown more fre-quently than the 1-page advertisement since 1990's ; Second two piece suit was dominated in men's wear during 1970's and 1980's From 1990's this style was decresed in stead combi suit was increased. In 1970's the X silhouette was infashion and the y and the X silhouette was in fashion and the y and X sillhouette were increased during 1980's . The H silhouette was dominated in 1990's The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's. The brighter and the more various colors appeared in 1990's than in 1970's The solid pattern was the main flow in men's wear however the stripes and the the check patterns were added in 1990's Third single breasted jacket style with two buttons and tailored collar was in fashion during 1970's . The length of the v-zone was shorter than half at this time however it was lengthened in 1980's . Also the the length of the jacket was lengthened. In 1990's the double breasted jacket style and two buttons were increased. The length of the v-zone and jacket were also lengthened.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.228-247
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• 2023

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.143-154
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• 2007

This study's purpose is how express gender image according to sex in editorial fashion photography. This study's objectives are the women's magazine Vogue, Harper's Bazaar and man's magazine GQ, Esquire published 2000-2005 within the country. The photography was classified with established a standard based on the precede studies. The photo is classified Gender image according to dress and its ornaments, model character and atmosphere by Sex Expression of femininity woman has exposure of body parts and emphasizing thin eyebrows and red lips, soft and mild image, modest and static pose. Man expressed femininity used ladylike color and pattern, erotic exposure of body and long hair style. Commonly emphasizing red lips, natural background of flower plant, S-line. For expression of masculinity man and woman are used masculinity item, short hair-style and thick eyebrows. And also emphasize square like chin and shoulder. Specially, woman used direct silhouette to conceal soft body curved line. The expressions of androgynous woman and man are colorful dress and make-up. Woman emphasized male face to show and man expressed soft image through hull of abundant material of fur. All two sex selected method that conceal body curved line and face to express sexless. Hiding characteristics of body and face make indistinct of sex. The gender is affected by atmosphere such as model and illumination background as much as clothes because of the editorial fashion photography.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.104-116
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• 2014

This study investigated the jacket preferences and actual fit according to body image perception of female university students in their early twenties, using a survey questionnaire method to analyze areas of dissatisfaction and improvements based on wearing experience. On the relationship between jacket and body image perception, female students with poor body image expressed the highest rate of "not satisfied" with purchase, which was significant. On buying preferences, the "Internet" was the primary place of purchase and "design" of jacket had highest consideration on the decision to buy. "Princess with a cinched - in waist" was the most preferred silhouette, and the most preferred length was "below the hip line." The most preferred cut was "basic," a jacket with a "tailored-collar of notched lapel shape," and "2-buttons." On discomfort and improvement of jacket fitness, students were most dissatisfied with "arm hole." The studies of production of a jacket which fitness and activities is both considered for female university students in their early twenties who use clothes to make them look more like their ideal body image.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.32-44
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• 2006

Denim has been one of the most favored clothing item among young people regardless of regional difference. This study compared the styling of women's denim fashion in two Asian metro-cities, Seoul and Beijing, in order to understand how differ the fashion taste of both cities. Data was collected by taking photos of young women who wear denim clothing at the main streets of downtowns or famous shopping areas of both cities from the July of 2004 till the April of 2005. A total of 524 photos(Seoul 242, and Beijing 282) were put into content analysis. Results showed that there were several similarities and differences in denim styling between two cities in terms of the most widely worn denim items and the coordinate items, and the favored colors, silhouette, details of denim pants and the coordinate items. In Seoul, women favored denim look with little detail, fitted silhouette, and in more formal image. A few denim styles prevailed in each season which reflect current denim fashion trends. Meanwhile a wide variety of denim styles were found at Beijing without dominant denim trends, which means Beijing women put more emphasis on personal expression of their fashion taste instead of just following fashion trends.