• 제목/요약/키워드: Significant wave height

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The Water Wave Scattering by the Marine Structure of Arbitrary Shape (임의 형태의 해양구조물에 의한 해수파의 산란)

  • 신승호;이중우
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Navigation
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.61-78
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    • 1993
  • Large offshore structure are to be considered for oil storage facilities , marine terminals, power plants, offshore airports, industrial complexes and recreational facilities. Some of them have already been constructed. Some of the envisioned structures will be of the artificial-island type, in which the bulk of structures may act as significant barriers to normal waves and the prediction of the wave intensity will be of importance for design of structure. The present study deals wave scattering problem combining reflection and diffraction of waves due to the shape of the impermeable rigid upright structure, subject to the excitation of a plane simple harmonic wave coming from infinity. In this study, a finite difference technique for the numerical solution is applied to the boundary integral equation obtained for wave potential. The numerical solution is verified with the analytic solution. The model is applied to various structures, such as the detached breakwater (3L${\times}$0.1L), bird-type breakwater(318L${\times}$0.17L), cylinder-type and crescent -type structure (2.89L${\times}$0.6L, 0.8L${\times}$0.26L).The result are presented in wave height amplification factors and wave height diagram. Also, the amplification factors across the structure or 1 or 2 wavelengths away from the structure are compared with each given case. From the numerical simulation for the various boundary types of structure, we could figure out the transformation pattern of waves and predict the waves and predict the wave intensity in the vicinity of large artificial structures.

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Peak Distribution of Nonlinear Random Waves of Finite Bandwidth (유한한 Spectral Bandwidth를 갖는 Nonlinear Random Waves의 추계학적 성질)

  • Cho, Yong-Jun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.58-65
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    • 1993
  • The theoretical treatment of statistical properties and distribution relevant to nonlinear random wave field of moderate bandwidth such as peak and trough of wave elevation is an overdue task hampered by the complicated form of nonlinear random waves. In this study, the extreme distribution of nonlinear random waves is derived based on the simplified version of Longuet-Higgins' wave model. It is shown that the band width of wave spectrum has a significant influence on these extreme distribution and the significant wave height is getting larger in an increasing manner as the nonlinearity is getting profound.

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Spatial and Temporal Variability of Significant Wave Height and Wave Direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea (황해와 동중국해에서의 유의파고와 파향의 시공간 변동성)

  • Hye-Jin Woo;Kyung-Ae Park;Kwang-Young Jeong;Do-Seong Byun;Hyun-Ju Oh
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
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    • v.44 no.1
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 2023
  • Oceanic wind waves have been recognized as one of the important indicators of global warming and climate change. It is necessary to study the spatial and temporal variability of significant wave height (SWH) and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and a part of the East China Sea, which is directly affected by the East Asian monsoon and climate change. In this study, the spatial and temporal variability including seasonal and interannual variability of SWH and wave direction in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea were analyzed using European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Reanalysis 5 (ERA5) data. Prior to analyzing the variability of SWH and wave direction using the model reanalysis, the accuracy was verified through comparison with SWH and wave direction measurements from Ieodo Ocean Science Station (I-ORS). The mean SWH ranged from 0.3 to 1.6 m, and was higher in the south than in the north and higher in the center of the Yellow Sea than in the coast. The standard deviation of the SWH also showed a pattern similar to the mean. In the Yellow Sea, SWH and wave direction showed clear seasonal variability. SWH was generally highest in winter and lowest in late spring or early summer. Due to the influence of the monsoon, the wave direction propagated mainly to the south in winter and to the north in summer. The seasonal variability of SWH showed predominant interannual variability with strong variability of annual amplitudes due to the influence of typhoons in summer.

Assessment of Water Piling-up behind a Submerged Breakwater during Storm Events (단기 태·폭풍 기인 잠제 배후의 Piling-up 현상 평가)

  • Son, Donghwi;Yoo, Jeseon;Kim, Mujong
    • Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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    • v.5 no.4
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    • pp.203-210
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    • 2018
  • It is generally known that submerged breakwaters can reduce the incoming wave energy without disturbing the beach scenery. However, a submerged breakwater is also able to cause a setup of the sea level in the protected area which is also called as water piling-up. Since the piling-up can result in longshore currents, sediment transports, and unexpected beach erosion, understanding about the piling-up process is required prior to designing the nearshore structures. In this study, the water piling-up behind a submerged breakwater is assessed in the time of storm events. For the study area, Anmok beach in Gyeonso-dong, Gangwon-do is selected. 1-year, 5-year, 10-year, and 50-year return-values were derived from Peaks-Over-Threshold(POT) method and those are applied as offshore boundary conditions for the numerical simulation. The numerical results of the piling-up were assessed with regard to the wave steepness and the height of the submerged breakwater. With increase of both significant wave height and the height of the submerged breakwater, the piling-up parameter is also increased which can lead to erosion of dry beach behind the structure.

On Long-term Prediction Scheme in Ocean Engineering

  • Kwon, Sun-Hong;Kim, Dea-Woong
    • International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.29-34
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    • 2000
  • This paper proposes a long-term prediction of offshore structures in ocean waves. All short-term statistics is generated by the simulation for all the combinations of significant wave heights and spectral peak periods. The simulation has been tested first on linear system, whose analytic solution is known, to verify if the simulation works accurately. Then the scheme was applied to the nonlinear system. This paper demonstrated that the proposed scheme could be an efficient tool in estimating the response of offshore structures.

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Correlation Analysis between Beach Width and Wave Data on the East Coast of South Korea (동해안 주요 해빈의 해빈폭과 파랑의 상관성 분석)

  • Oh, Jung-Eun;Jeong, Weon-Mu;Kim, Ki-Hyun;Kang, Tae-Sun
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.2
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    • pp.73-87
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    • 2019
  • Ocean waves are the driving force for the sediment transport and the beach process. However, wave actions are nonlinear and non-stationary, and the response of the beach is inconsistent in terms of reaction rate and magnitude. Therefore, the beach process is difficult to predict accurately. The purpose of this study is to identify the correlations between the shoreline change and ocean waves observed in the east coast of Korea. The relation of the beach width obtained from video monitoring at five sandy beaches and the wave data obtained from nearby wave monitoring at three points was analyzed. Although the correlations estimated over the whole data sets was not significant, the correlations estimated based on the seasonal period or wave conditions provided more noteworthy information. When the non-exceedance probability of the wave height was greater than 0.99, the wave period and beach width showed strong negative correlations. In case the non-exceedance probability of the wave period was greater than 0.99, the wave height and beach width showed strong negative correlations as well. Furthermore, the erosion rate of the beach width increased when the primary wave direction was close to normal to the coastline. Little significant seasonal or monthly change was found between the beach width and the wave, but it was greatly affected by intensive events such as typhoons. Thus, it is necessary to analyze in detail the wave height or period level explaining the change of beach width for more relevant and practical information.

Analysis of Wave Parametric Characteristics using WAVEWATCH-III Model and Observed Buoy Data (파랑모델과 부이 자료를 이용한 파랑인자 특성 분석)

  • 장유순;서장원;김태희;윤용훈
    • The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.274-284
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    • 2003
  • The analysis of wave parametric characteristics in sea regions in the vicinity of Korean Peninsula have been carried out using the third generation wave model, WAVEWATCH-III (Tolman, 1999) and four observed buoy data of Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). Significant wave height increases about 2-3 hours later after the increase of wind speed. Maximum correlation coefficient between two parameters appears in Donghae buoy data, which is at off-shore region. When land breeze occurs, it can be found that the correlation coefficient decreases. Time differences between wind speeds and wave heights correspond to significant tidal periods at all of the buoy locations except for Donghae buoy. After verifying the WAVEWATCH-III model results by the comparing with observed buoy data, we have carried out numerical experiments near the Kuroshio current and East Sea areas, and then reconfirmed that when there exist an opposite strong current in the propagation direction of the waves or wind direction, wave height and length get higher and shorter, respectively and vice versa. It has been shown that these modulations of wave parameters are considerable when wind speed is week or mean current is relatively strong, and corresponding values have been represented.

Relationship Analysis on the Monitoring Period and Parameter Estimation Error of the Coastal Wave Climate Data (연안 파랑 관측기간과 모수추정 오차 관계분석)

  • Cho, Hongyeon;Jeong, Weon-Mu;Jun, Ki Cheon
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.25 no.1
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    • pp.34-39
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    • 2013
  • In this study, the quantitative analysis and pattern analysis of the error bounds with respect to recording period were carried out using the wave climate data from coastal areas. Arbitrary recording periods were randomly sampled from one month to six years using the bootstrap method. Based on the analysis, for recording periods less than one year, it was found that the error bounds decreased rapidly as the recording period increased. Meanwhile, the error bounds were found to decrease more slowly for recording periods longer than one year. Assuming the absolute estimate error to be around 10% (${\pm}0.1m$) for an one meter significant wave height condition, the minimum recording period for reaching the estimate error for Sokcho and Geoje-Hongdo stations satisfied this condition with over two years of data, while Anmado station was found to satisfy this condition when using observational data of over three years. The confidence intervals of the significant wave height clearly show an increasing pattern when the percentile value of the wave height increases. Whereas, the confidence intervals of the mean wave period are nearly constant, at around 0.5 seconds except for the tail regions, i.e., 2.5- and 97.5-percentile values. The error bounds for 97.5-percentile values of the wave height necessary for harbor tranquility analysis were found to be 0.75 m, 0.5 m, and 1.2 m in Sokcho, Geoje-Hongdo, and Anmado, respectively.

Spatial Distribution of Wave Overtopping along Vertical Structure due to Obliquely Incident Waves (경사입사파에 의한 직립구조물에서 월파의 공간적 분포)

  • Kim, Young-Taek;Lee, Jong-In;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.414-421
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    • 2011
  • In determination of the crest height of a vertical structure against attacking of obliquely incident waves, most of existing studies have suggested to use the overtopping reduction factor due to incident angles. However, they have not considered the amplification of wave heights and the spatial distribution of wave overtopping. In this study, a spatial distribution of overtopping due to the amplification of wave heights along a vertical structure is investigated experimentally. It is recommended that the crest height can be determined by the same manner as that for normally incident waves up to 3 significant wave lengths from the one end of the structure. However, the rest part of the structure can be done by employing the overtopping reduction factor with considering the amplification of wave heights and the spatial distribution of wave overtopping.

New coefficients to find natural period of elevated tanks considering fluid-structure-soil interaction effects

  • Maedeh, Pouyan Abbasi;Ghanbari, Ali;Wu, Wei
    • Geomechanics and Engineering
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    • v.12 no.6
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    • pp.949-963
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    • 2017
  • The main purpose of the current study is to develop the new coefficients for consideration of soil-structure interaction effects to find the elevated tank natural period. Most of the recommended relations to find the natural period just assumed the fixed base condition of elevated tank systems and the soil effects on the natural period are neglected. Two different analytical systems considering soil-structure- fluid interaction effects are recommended in the current study. Achieved results of natural impulsive and convective period, concluded from mentioned models are compared with the results of a numerical model. Two different sets of new coefficients for impulsive and convective periods are developed. The values of the developed coefficients directly depend to soil stiffness values. Additional results show that the soil stiffness not only has significant effects on natural period but also it is effective on liquid sloshing wave height. Both frequency content and soil stiffness have significant effects on the values of liquid wave height.