• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.573-582
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• 2012

This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

"Aloha" is the Hawaiian word that extends the warmth friendliness, and pride of the Hawaiian people to their island's visitors. The aloha shirt truly symbolizes aloha sprit to islanders and visitors alike. The earliest foreign settlers in the Hawaiian Islands were the Chinese and Japanese. They brought with them their myriad talents and trades, among them the art of tailoring. In July of 1936, a shirtmaker named Ellery J.Chun coined the term "Aloha Shirt" an apt characterization for such an eloquent garment. He was the first to make the shirt on a commercial basis. The shirt sold for as little as a dollar in Chun's own King-Smith store. The genuine aloha shirt is now regaled as a work of art and avidly sought out by collectors. When tourism came to Hawaii in the late 1930s, these unusal shirts were among the first thing that visitors had to have. Local designers and tailors worked quickly to meet the demand and began to expand the range of decoration to include palm trees and romantic beaches, tropical jungles and volcanoes, exotic flowers and scenes from polynesian legend. Therefore the aloha shirt had been born. The functional use of creative colors and amazing artistic renderings in these shirts certainly capture the simplicity and sprit of Hawaii. Aloha shirt is dress that display mystery and charm of Hawaii and cultural symbol of condensed Hawaiian mind. Furthermore, the innocence with which Hawaiians formerly translated their life and heritage onto fabric ranks these shirts with the finest of American folk art. Aloha shirt is made from cotton, silk, rayon in present and past. Most important design element of Aloha shirt is print pattern. Main print pattern of Aloha shirt are all over pattern, horizontal pattern, border pattern, Japanese pattern, picture pattern and back panel pattern. In this study I investigate the design characteristics and development process of aloha shirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

Clothing not only offers protection for the body and an aesthetic function but also accomplishes a communication role by delivering a message. And symbolic meanings of clothes deliver important information about the wearer. The T-shirt is one of the most popular items of clothing because of its simplicity and utility, In particular, T-shirt patterns, being simple forms, accomplish non-verbal communication directly by making possible the expression of an idea and showing the personality of the wearer. For these reasons, the T-shirt is becoming established as an Important item of clothing that shows one's personality and individuality in modern society. One purpose of this study is to confirm the communication function of fashion and understand that fashion plays an important symbolic role as a means of communication. Another purpose is to see how T-shirt patterns relate to human communication, through studying of widely accepted T-shirt in modern society. The final purpose is to develop a T-shirt design application based on this study and show how T-skirts contribute to expressing one's individuality and deliver ideas about society through clothing. The results of this study are as follows: 1. T-shirt patterns play a part in non-verbal communication. 2. T-shirt patterns have been variously expressed through conditions of society, culture and types of patterns, and formation techniques. 3. The communication function of T-shirt patterns have been classified to 5 categories; publicity, persuasion, solidarity, art, and fashion. 4 T-shirt design patterns were developed and produced. 5. T-shirt patterns could be useful ways to express individuality of oneself today.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1228-1241
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• 2010

This study aims to help understanding on design of basic pattern of shirt collars and to suggest schemes to raise completeness of shape by reviewing problems shown in finished products after sewing. From March 2009 to August 2009, 12 patterns for education and firms were collected centering on basic shirt collar form respectively. There are four problems generally raised from a completed shirt collar. In case of overlapping shirt collar on front neck point, the sewing point of shirt collar should be drawn at front neck point of collar band at a distance of about 0.2~0.3cm, and the center front of band and one of bodice should be arranged in a straight line. In case of the problem about right and left length difference of shirt collar, it is raised by closing so the problem was solved by prolonging about 0.2 cm of the center front of left collar. It was evaluated that adjusting notch point when sewing would be more rational solution than solving something on patterns for distance difference problem of shirt collar between right and left part at center front. And a problem about getting loose of front garment between collar band below and the first button was also raised. It was designed 0.2cm cut of collar band. Around basic shirt collar form, above mentioned solutions are applied to the patterns for education and manufacture experimental clothing. So as a result of sensory evaluation, generally good ratings on all items were received.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.1-16
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to find out the various impressions that tone-on-tone coloration of shirts and ties gives. This experiment was based on the $2{\times}4{\times}4{\times}2$ factorial design: colors(red and blue), shirt tones(vivid, light, dull, and dark); tie tones(vivid, light, dull, and dark) and perceivers' gender(male and female). The materials in the experiment developed for this study were composed of 32 upper body photographs which were color printed and 27 bi-polar adjectives, each of which was graded into seven in its degree, were used to evaluate the impression. We unified those colors of shirts and neckties, and then made shirt and necktie tone different. The subjects of this research were 192 male and 192 female college students in Gyeongnam province including Jinju City The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analyzing methods were one-way ANOVA and LSD test. The items of the adjectives were classified into 5 impression dimensions - potency, activity, attractiveness, visibility and tenderness. All the image by the match of shirt and tie could be possible to make various images by the color, the shirt tone and the tie tone. Blue was given more effective potent image, vivid or light tone shirt in blue was the active image. As shirt and tie had different tone, regarded as the attractive image. Vivid tone tie was evaluated the visible image, light tone shirt is the tend image.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.40-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the shirt market, to find out the shirt trend in 2005 A/W, to analysis shirt style Preference, and to investigate the shirts purchase attitude according to the income, age, and occupation of the 321 respondents, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics. The results from the study were as follows ; In 2005 A/W, Countessmara, Daks, Dupont, Renoma, and Yesac were commomly distributed in 5 department stores in Daejon and Seoul. There were seen trends that were pursuing a various fabric, colors, details, and high-touch design in shirt. Men workers prefered the Basic and Modern casual style to Soft, Sophisticated, Modern mannish, and Trendy style shirt. The 133(41.4%)respondents estimated that the important viewpoint in purchasing dress shirts was 'Design. The 212(66%) respondents estimated that they prefered the different shirt brand from their suits. And results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). The 103 (32.1%) respondents estimated that they possessed the three shirts per one suits. The 201(62.6%) respondents estimated that they prefered the department store for purchasing shirt. And, the 114(35.5%) respondents estimated that the first important information source which influenced on purchasing dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.72-82
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• 2012

The purpose of this research to look into formative characteristics of eco T-shirt design. Previous study researchers have mostly focused on overall eco fashion design, but on the other hand the research on eco product entity leaves much to be desired. We analyzed formative characteristics of eco T-shirt design that is easily accessible in real life and is easy to passing message. We selected 23 eco brands through internet and analyzed total 500 photos of eco T-shirt. Each photo was categorized by sex and the nations which belong to the eco fashion world associations. The content and statistical analysis was used for data analysis. The content of the research is as the following. First, it was found out that basic straight silhouette, achromatic color, human pattern, plant pattern, and eco-friendly organic material were used for the design of eco T-shirt. Second, it showed difference of silhouette, color, pattern according to nations. Third, it showed difference of silhouette, color, pattern according to sex. Fourth, symbolism of eco T-shirt was nature love, nature support, society ethicality, anti-sociality, and economics. This research aims for providing practical help and assistance to the development of eco T-shirt and its relevant industries.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.379-388
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• 2018

The Hawaiian shirt, also known as the Aloha shirt, is a short-sleeved, colorful shirt with traditional Polynesian designs (e.g., hibiscus, fish) originating in Hawai'i. The shirt was selected for study because it is a unique garment that originated in the Hawaiian Islands in the late $19^{th}$ and $20^{th}$ centuries and marketed as a tourist product but was eventually adopted as appropriate residential clothing by the $mid-20^{th}$ century, however with different aesthetic details. Today, it is assumed by Hawaiian Island residents that tourists demonstrate poor taste when selecting a Hawaiian shirt. The purposes of this study are to examine the validity of the assumption that tourist taste and resident taste in Hawaiian shirts are different and to investigate the current Hawaiian shirt market change. For this study, 555 questionnaires were obtained from tourists and residents, and 10 Hawaiian shirt retailers/wholesalers participated in in-depth interviews. The results indicated that differences do exist between tourists' and residents' preferences for print designs and colorway. The market change of Hawaiian shirts was also recognizable in that an increasing number of tourists select Hawaiian shirts similar to resident customers, as part of their routine lives rather than as holiday or vacation garments. Other differences in Hawaiian shirt shopping behavior included the findings that tourists consider fabrication less important than resident customers who consider fabrication more (i.e., cotton 100%). By using both quantitative and qualitative methods, this study contributes to the fashion design and marketing field as well as help manufacturers and retailers with their merchandise and distribution plans.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.581-594
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• 2016

Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.101-110
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• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.