• Korean Journal of Veterinary Research
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.155-158
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• 2013

Paedomorphosis is the retention of juvenile morphology at maturity and is important in generating evolutionary change in domestic species and species in the wild. This preliminary study compared morphological characteristics of seven domestic cat pure breeds and felid species from around the world. An original procedure based on elliptical Fourier (EF) methods was applied to head lateral views of specimens and were assessed in order to analyse head profile. For comparative purposes three domestic kittens of different ages and three species of genus Lynx were also used. EF descriptors, allowed for the quantification of the head profile. Using the Fourier transform, reconstruction of the mean head profile revealed that there was a general shape difference between wild cats, domestic cats and kittens. Results suggested that variability in head profile differentiate quite well between adult cats and kittens, but domestic and wild cats appeared grouped into a similar cluster. The similarity between breeds can thus be attributed more to the general head profile than to flatness, i.e. to the general conformation rather than facial profile. Therefore, no effect of paedomorphism on the studied breeds can be undertaken. The present approach opens interesting ethnological perspectives for the aloidic characterisation for domestic breeds.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.335-342
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• 1999

This study is aimed at providing useful data which can be utilized for the design of their dress forms and enhancing the fitness of their apparels. To this end 330 pre-school children living in the capital area and aged from 4 to 6 were sampled to be subject to the measurement of their somatotypes. The results of this study can be summarized as follows ; 1 By the analysis of overlapped cross section diagram and silhouette diagram of each somatotype both had a common shape of lean-backed upper troso. 2. The type 1 showed less dimensions in most scales than type 2 while their shoulder were less developed. The type 2 showing more development in each element. 3. As a result of comparing the dress forms designed in reference with classified somatotypes and the commercial ones it was found that the former ones had the upper body part slanted slightly backwards and the belly part extruded forwards while the latter had a straight posture with large shoulder parts. After all the commercial dress forms were found not to reflect the actual somatotypes of Pre-School children's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.126-141
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• 2006

Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body ($signifi\'{e}$) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.39-54
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• 1988

The purposes of this study were to identify the periodicity of fashion in modern society and to find the correlation between each detail and bustle constitution through the bustle styles that have been recently revived. For the study of periodicity, fashion plates or pictures in Vogue or in the books related Vogue since 1930 were selected, and were analyzed into bell, tubular and bustle silhouettes that were devided by Young (1937). And for the study of the correlation of detail and bustle constitution, fashion plates and pictures that were related to the bustle in the 19th century and the 20th century were selected, and according to the epoch (19C, 20C) and the use (daytime dress or evening dress), each of them was analyzed. The results were as follows: 1. After 1930, $24{\sim}33$ year amplitude was founded at tubular and bell shape, that proved shorter cycles than Young's. 2. In each characters of clothing details, deep decolletage, undivided waistline, spaced bodice in daytime dress were partly identified the characteristics of 20th century costume. 3. The form of bustle was converted from the complex ornament of the 19th century to the simple shape of the 20th century. In other words, it is necessary that the definition of bustle be changed not the previous definition as the silhouette and instrument but that as the emphasis dimension. 4. The dimensions that showed difference at daytime dress and evening dress were 'existence of collar', 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve' for 19th century, and 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve,' 'length of skirt' for 20th century. 5. Correlations with the bustle constitution and details were shown at bodice and waistline with the complex bustle in the 19th century and at collar and neckline with the simple bustle in the 20th century.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Graphics Society
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2020

Ghosted illustration is an effective tool to simultaneously visualize interior and exterior structures while preserving clear shape cues. We propose a novel framework that combines 3D blending technique, which uses depth information of the target structure, with the conventional ghosted illustration framework. This combination facilitates natural blending effects tailored to the needs of ghosted illustration. Furthermore, we present how common manipulation techniques (e.g., masking) and illustrative rendering effects (e.g., silhouette mapping) can be integrated into the proposed framework to preserve both clear shape cues and depth cues. For the compositing techniques, we show and discuss the visual results obtained from various combinations of them. This demonstrates that the proposed framework can be an effective tool for ghost illustration.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.126-134
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• 2014

This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.6 s.59
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• pp.960-976
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• 2005

Classicism pursued beauty comprised of a perfect form, and beauty was perceived as a state of sufficiency. Accordingly, a completed and permanent beauty was sought after; as a result, a perfect and flawless form became the mainstream, and there was an effort to visualize the eternal proportional perfection. In classicism, forms were perfectly embodied with systematic inevitability and absolute inflexibility, by which an extremely clear aspect appeared. This study analyzes a classical construction paradigm in modern fashion according to the five categories: 'Harmony and order by numerical proportion', 'Clear form', 'Simplification of form and two-dimensional Seh-form', 'Completed contracture structure', and 'Pluralistic unification', and the respective formative characteristics are as follows. First, in terms of the formative aspect of modern fashion,'Harmony and order by numerical proportion' results from thorough observance of extreme and golden section (proportion of 5 :8) which was an aesthetic standard of beautiful body in classicism. Second, 'Clear form' appears in clothes as individual clearness of structural elements expressing each part of body, and shows a well-established form possible to be grasped with equal and clear contour line. Third,'Simplification of form and two-dimensional Seh-form' comes out as form composition, single line, single layer structure, two-dimensional form and arrangement of elements of clothes through the front viewpoint caused by 2D diagramming work while fashion-designing and producing. Also, it is seen that two-dimensional proportion which is composed of sections through various harmonious lines and sides according to the simple two-dimensional compatibility principle is accomplished. Fourth, 'Completed contracture structure' emerges as an expression of stationariness, in other words, fixation of an overall impression. This is a tendency that the overall form is grasped as a fixedly intact shape without a big change of the silhouette of clothes. Fifth, 'Pluralistic unification' means that it respectively emphasizes all the parts composing clothes by making them individually independent at the same time as each element is inclusively shown with the harmony of the overall silhouette of clothes and many other details. This study examined classical formative characteristics through a theoretical research on a formative paradigm revealing the classical style. Also, the significance of classical or rational value of art was illuminated by observing what characteristics a classical formation paradigm shows in modern fashion. As a result, classical characteristics in modern fashion prove that classicism is not a merely past construction style separated from the present but a construction paradigm deeply involved in our reason system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.4 s.40
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• pp.393-403
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• 1991

The purpose of this study were to explain the difference in body dimensions and body shape between the early in the twenties and the late in the twenties and to get information clothing construction. Subject were 483 Korean males, which were extracted from men's physique investigation on June to August in 1989, consisted of 149 aged $19\~24$ and $25\~29$. T-test and factor analysis were applied to 52 measurement items and 58 indices. The Result of the study were as follow; 1. As regards $19\~24$ aged group, they were taller their waistband level was higher than the late in the twenties. Upper arm and thigh were thick in comparison with trunk. As the difference between shoulder and waist in dimension was great, they showed reverse triangular silhouette. As regard $25\~29$ aged group, their body from variation between individual was greater than that of 19~24 aged group and they were obese on mainly waist and abdominal parts. For that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip looked slim relatively that reason, waist band level became low and their shoulder and hip look slim relatively to bust and waist parts. 2. Between $19\~24$ aged and $25\~29$ aged groups, as each had charicteristic body from, there was the difference in factor structure. 3. The change of men's body from with age in their twenties was obeseness on the whole body but the increasing rate of upper arm and thigh girth was less than that of trunk girth.