• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.148-156
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• 2008

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify this model, two numerical simulations for hydraulic experiments of Chawla et al.(1998) and Beji and Battjes(1993) are performed. The computed results show good agreements with measured ones. To identify its applicability to real sea, it is applied to storm wave modelling for typhoon Maemi. Numerical results compared with measured ones at Geoje, Busan and Ulsan show reasonable wave height estimations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.75-82
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• 1990

A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.313-320
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• 1995

A numerical analysis on the wave deformation in the shallow water region is performed for the case of two intersecting wave trains of the same frequency on uniformly sloping beaches. This model is based on the consideration of wave energy balance and wave action conservation, and iteratively solved the set of conservation equations of both mass and horizontal momentum. Using the computed results, the wave deformations in accordance with the variation of the parameters luck as incident wave angie and wave height in deep water which influences the variation of wave hight and mean water level under the intersecting wave trains in the shallow water region. are considered.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

The process of the nonlinear shallow water wave transformation in a basin of a constant depth is studied. Characteristics of the first breaking of the wave are analyzed in details. The Fourier spectrum and steepness of the nonlinear wave are calculated. It is shown that the spectral amplitudes can be expressed using the wave front steepness, which allows the practical estimations.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.68-76
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• 2013

In this study, a 3D numerical model was used to predict nonlinear wave forces on a cylindrical pile installed in a shallow water region. The model was based on solving the viscous and incompressible Navier-Stokes equations for a two-phase flow (water and air) model and the volume of fluid method for treating the free surface of water. A new application was developed based on the cut-cell method to allow easy installation of complicated obstacles (e.g., bottom geometry and cylindrical pile) in a computational domain. Free-surface elevation, water particle velocities, and inline wave forces were calculated, and the results show good agreement with experimental data obtained by the Danish Hydraulic Institute. The simulation results revealed that the proposed model can, without the use of empirical formulas (i.e., Morison equation) and additional wave analysis models, reliably predict non-linear wave forces on an offshore wind turbine foundation installed in a shallow water region.

• The KSFM Journal of Fluid Machinery
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.38-45
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• 2008

Development of high efficiency turbine with good performance is one of the main topics in the field of developing wave energy converter. For the development and improvement of the turbine performance, the effect of wave condition on the turbine performance should be considered in detail. Also, water depth is an important factor because incident wave power to the turbine is considerably influenced by the wave particle amplitude of motion and the amplitude is closely related with the water depth. Therefore, in this study, the effect of water depth on the performance of a direct drive turbine(DDT) for wave energy converter is investigated using the DDT which is installed in two types of wave channel. The experimental results show that the DDT captures more wave energy under the condition of relatively shallow water depth. When the water depth is shallow, the horizontal water particle amplitude of motion becomes wider and thus, the water power toward the turbine becomes larger.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.168-177
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• 2020

Many coastal engineering designs utilize empirical formulas containing the Equivalent Deep-water Wave Height (EDWH), which is normally given a priori. However, no studies have explicitly discussed a method for determining the EDWH and the resulting design wave heights (DEWH) under irregular wave conditions. Unfortunately, it has been the case in many design practices that the EDWH is incorrectly estimated by dividing the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position with its corresponding shoaling coefficient of regular wave. The present study reexamines the relationship between the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position and its corresponding EDWH. Then, a new procedure is proposed to facilitate the correct estimation of EDWH. In this procedure, the EDWH and DEWH are determined differently according to the wave propagation model used to estimate the SWH. For this, Goda's original method for nonlinear irregular wave deformation is extended to produce values for linear shoaling. Finally, exemplary calculations are performed to assess the possible errors caused by a misuse of the wave height calculation procedure. The relative errors with respect to the correct values could exceed 20%, potentially leading to a significant under-design of coastal or harbor structures in some cases.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.17-20
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• 1980

The shearing forces and bending moments acting on the tanker model[1] of $C_B$ 0.82 in regular oblique waves of shallow water are investigated by numerical calculations. The new strip method was adopted. It is concluded that in the shallow water shearing forces and the bending moments acting on the tanker model are higher than those of deep water waves by the present numerical investigations. The wave bending moment at the midship section is roughly twice of deep water value in the shallow of H/T less than 2. in this calculation.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.42 no.4 s.142
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• pp.315-321
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• 2005

The effect of water depth on the wave making resistance performance is great where Froude number based on the water depth is close to one. The increase of wave making resistance due to the shallow water effect is evaluated by a numerical analysis in the present study. Three-dimensional Navier-Stokes and continuity equations are employed for the present study and the equations are discretized by finite difference method. The interface between water and air is determined by the level set method. In order to validate the numerical method, the change of resistance performance for Wigley hull according to the water depth is evaluated and the computed resistance coefficient is compared with measured one. The present numerical method is applied for the simulation of wave phenomena around a Ro-Pax hull form and the computed results are discussed in the resistance performance point of view.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.13 no.1_2
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• pp.53-65
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• 2003

Here we present a study of small-amplitude, shallow water waves on sloping beds. The beds considered in this analysis are linear and quadratic in nature. First we start with stating the relevant governing equations and boundary conditions for the theory of water waves. Once the complete prescription of the water-wave problem is available based on some assumptions (like inviscid, irrotational flow), we normalize it by introducing a suitable set of non-dimensional variables and then we scale the variables with respect to the amplitude parameter. This helps us to characterize the various types of approximation. In the process, a summary of equations that represent different approximations of the water-wave problem is stated. All the relevant equations are presented in rectangular Cartesian coordinates. Then we derive the equations and boundary conditions for small-amplitude and shallow water waves. Two specific types of bed are considered for our calculations. One is a bed with constant slope and the other bed has a quadratic form of surface. These are solved by using separation of variables method.