• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.148-156
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• 2008

심해역 파랑모형인 WAM에 쇄파와 삼파 상호작용을 추가하여 모형의 적용영역을 천해역으로 확장하였다. 확장된 모형의 검증을 위해 Chawla et al.(1998) 과 Beji and Battjes(1993)의 수리모형 실험에 본 모형을 적용하여 천해역에서의 파랑변형 및 비선형 3파 상호작용의 수치모의 기능을 확인하였고, 계산된 수치모의 결과들은 수리실험의 계측결과와 잘 일치하였다. 그리고 실제 해역에서의 적용성을 검토하기 위해 태풍 매미에 대한 파랑 모의에 적용하였고, 계산 결과를 거제, 부산, 울산에서의 관측치와 비교하였는데 만족스러운 일치를 보여주었다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.75-82
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• 1990

파고, 주기의 정보로서 수위변동η, 그 시간적분법η, 파향의 정보로서 수평방향 2성분 물입자속도 u, v의 4가지 시계열을 판정하여, narrow band-width frequency spectrum을 가지는 불규칙파의 포락파형(enveloped wave)을 구함으로서, 파고, 주기, 파향의 종합확률분포를 상세히 유도하여, 현지실측경과와 비교, 검토했다. 그 결과, 실측되어진 종합확률분포는 유도되어진 파고, 주기, 파향의 결합확률분포와 양호하게 일치하여 현지 불규칙파랑장에 있어서 충분한 정도로서 적용할 수 있다는 것을 알았다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.313-320
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• 1995

일정 경사를 갖는 해안에 입사하는 같은 주기의 두개의 파열이 교차하는 경우에 대하여 천해역에서 파랑 변형에 대한 수치해석을 수행하였다. 본 모형은 파랑 에너지 평형 및 파랑운동 보존식에 기초하여, 시간과 수심에 대해 평균한 질량 및 수평방향 운동 보존방정식을 반복적으로 계산하여 해를 구하였다. 계산된 결과를 이용하여, 천해역에서 파열이 교차할 때 파고와 평균수위변동에 영향을 주는 입사 파향각 및 심해파고와 같은 매개변수 변화에 따른 파랑 변형에 대해 고찰하였다.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.355-360
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• 2007

본 논문에서는 수심이 일정한 수조에서의 비선형 천해파의 변형 과정에 대한 연구를 수행하였다. 파랑의 최초 쇄파에 대한 특성을 자세히 분석하고, 비선형파의 경사 및 퓨리에 스펙트럼을 산정하였다. 분석결과 스펙트럼의 진폭은 실용적으로 추산이 가능한 파랑 경사를 이용하여 표현할 수 있다.

• International Journal of Ocean System Engineering
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• 제3권2호
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• pp.68-76
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• 2013

In this study, a 3D numerical model was used to predict nonlinear wave forces on a cylindrical pile installed in a shallow water region. The model was based on solving the viscous and incompressible Navier-Stokes equations for a two-phase flow (water and air) model and the volume of fluid method for treating the free surface of water. A new application was developed based on the cut-cell method to allow easy installation of complicated obstacles (e.g., bottom geometry and cylindrical pile) in a computational domain. Free-surface elevation, water particle velocities, and inline wave forces were calculated, and the results show good agreement with experimental data obtained by the Danish Hydraulic Institute. The simulation results revealed that the proposed model can, without the use of empirical formulas (i.e., Morison equation) and additional wave analysis models, reliably predict non-linear wave forces on an offshore wind turbine foundation installed in a shallow water region.

• 한국유체기계학회 논문집
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.38-45
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• 2008

Development of high efficiency turbine with good performance is one of the main topics in the field of developing wave energy converter. For the development and improvement of the turbine performance, the effect of wave condition on the turbine performance should be considered in detail. Also, water depth is an important factor because incident wave power to the turbine is considerably influenced by the wave particle amplitude of motion and the amplitude is closely related with the water depth. Therefore, in this study, the effect of water depth on the performance of a direct drive turbine(DDT) for wave energy converter is investigated using the DDT which is installed in two types of wave channel. The experimental results show that the DDT captures more wave energy under the condition of relatively shallow water depth. When the water depth is shallow, the horizontal water particle amplitude of motion becomes wider and thus, the water power toward the turbine becomes larger.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.168-177
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• 2020

Many coastal engineering designs utilize empirical formulas containing the Equivalent Deep-water Wave Height (EDWH), which is normally given a priori. However, no studies have explicitly discussed a method for determining the EDWH and the resulting design wave heights (DEWH) under irregular wave conditions. Unfortunately, it has been the case in many design practices that the EDWH is incorrectly estimated by dividing the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position with its corresponding shoaling coefficient of regular wave. The present study reexamines the relationship between the Shallow-water Wave Height (SWH) at the structural position and its corresponding EDWH. Then, a new procedure is proposed to facilitate the correct estimation of EDWH. In this procedure, the EDWH and DEWH are determined differently according to the wave propagation model used to estimate the SWH. For this, Goda's original method for nonlinear irregular wave deformation is extended to produce values for linear shoaling. Finally, exemplary calculations are performed to assess the possible errors caused by a misuse of the wave height calculation procedure. The relative errors with respect to the correct values could exceed 20%, potentially leading to a significant under-design of coastal or harbor structures in some cases.

• 대한조선학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.17-20
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• 1980

The shearing forces and bending moments acting on the tanker model[1] of $C_B$ 0.82 in regular oblique waves of shallow water are investigated by numerical calculations. The new strip method was adopted. It is concluded that in the shallow water shearing forces and the bending moments acting on the tanker model are higher than those of deep water waves by the present numerical investigations. The wave bending moment at the midship section is roughly twice of deep water value in the shallow of H/T less than 2. in this calculation.

• 대한조선학회논문집
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• 제42권4호
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• pp.315-321
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• 2005

The effect of water depth on the wave making resistance performance is great where Froude number based on the water depth is close to one. The increase of wave making resistance due to the shallow water effect is evaluated by a numerical analysis in the present study. Three-dimensional Navier-Stokes and continuity equations are employed for the present study and the equations are discretized by finite difference method. The interface between water and air is determined by the level set method. In order to validate the numerical method, the change of resistance performance for Wigley hull according to the water depth is evaluated and the computed resistance coefficient is compared with measured one. The present numerical method is applied for the simulation of wave phenomena around a Ro-Pax hull form and the computed results are discussed in the resistance performance point of view.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제13권1_2호
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• pp.53-65
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• 2003

Here we present a study of small-amplitude, shallow water waves on sloping beds. The beds considered in this analysis are linear and quadratic in nature. First we start with stating the relevant governing equations and boundary conditions for the theory of water waves. Once the complete prescription of the water-wave problem is available based on some assumptions (like inviscid, irrotational flow), we normalize it by introducing a suitable set of non-dimensional variables and then we scale the variables with respect to the amplitude parameter. This helps us to characterize the various types of approximation. In the process, a summary of equations that represent different approximations of the water-wave problem is stated. All the relevant equations are presented in rectangular Cartesian coordinates. Then we derive the equations and boundary conditions for small-amplitude and shallow water waves. Two specific types of bed are considered for our calculations. One is a bed with constant slope and the other bed has a quadratic form of surface. These are solved by using separation of variables method.