• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow water wave

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Estimation of Significant Wave Heights from X-Band Radar Using Artificial Neural Network (인공신경망을 이용한 X-Band 레이다 유의파고 추정)

  • Park, Jaeseong;Ahn, Kyungmo;Oh, Chanyeong;Chang, Yeon S.
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.561-568
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    • 2020
  • Wave measurements using X-band radar have many advantages compared to other wave gauges including wave-rider buoy, P-u-v gauge and Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP), etc.. For example, radar system has no risk of loss/damage in bad weather conditions, low maintenance cost, and provides spatial distribution of waves from deep to shallow water. This paper presents new methods for estimating significant wave heights of X-band marine radar images using Artificial Neural Network (ANN). We compared the time series of estimated significant wave heights (Hs) using various estimation methods, such as signal-to-noise ratio (${\sqrt{SNR}}$), both and ${\sqrt{SNR}}$ the peak period (TP), and ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k). The estimated significant wave heights of the X-band images were compared with wave measurement using ADCP(AWC: Acoustic Wave and Current Profiler) at Hujeong Beach, Uljin, Korea. Estimation of Hs using ANN with 3 parameters (${\sqrt{SNR}}$, TP, and Rval > k) yields best result.

Investigation and Processing of Seismic Reflection Data Collected from a Water-Land Area Using a Land Nodal Airgun System (수륙 경계지역에서 얻어진 육상 노달 에어건 탄성파탐사 자료의 고찰 및 자료처리)

  • Lee, Donghoon;Jang, Seonghyung;Kang, Nyeonkeon;Kim, Hyun-do;Kim, Kwansoo;Kim, Ji-Soo
    • The Journal of Engineering Geology
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    • v.31 no.4
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    • pp.603-620
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    • 2021
  • A land nodal seismic system was employed to acquire seismic reflection data using stand-alone cable-free receivers in a land-river area. Acquiring reliable data using this technology is very cost effective, as it avoids topographic problems in the deployment and collection of receivers. The land nodal airgun system deployed on the mouth of the Hyungsan River (in Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk Province) used airgun sources in the river and receivers on the riverbank, with subparallel source and receiver lines, approximately 120 m-spaced. Seismic data collected on the riverbank are characterized by a low signal-to-noise (S/N) and inconsistent reflection events. Most of the events are represented by hyperbola in the field records, including direct waves, guided waves, air waves, and Scholte surface waves, in contrast to the straight lines in the data collected conventionally where source and receiver lines are coincident. The processing strategy included enhancing the signal behind the low-frequency large-amplitude noise with a cascaded application of bandpass and f-k filters for the attenuation of air waves. Static time delays caused by the cross-offset distance between sources and receivers are corrected, with a focus on mapping the shallow reflections obscured by guided wave and air wave noise. A new time-distance equation and curve for direct and air waves are suggested for the correction of the static time delay caused by the cross-offset between source and receiver. Investigation of the minimum cross-offset gathers shows well-aligned shallow reflections around 200 ms after time-shift correction. This time-delay static correction based on the direct wave is found essential to improving the data from parallel source and receiver lines. Data acquisition and processing strategies developed in this study for land nodal airgun seismic systems will be readily applicable to seismic data from land-sea areas when high-resolution signal data becomes available in the future for investigation of shallow gas reservoirs, faults, and engineering designs for the development of coastal areas.

Analysis of Hydraulic Characteristics of the Downstream Han River Reach by the FESWMS-2DH Model (FESWMS-2DH 모형에 의한 한강 하류부의 수리특성 분석)

  • Yoon, Yong Nam;Park, Moo Jong
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.847-857
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    • 1994
  • FESWMS-2DH developed by the U.S. Department of Transportation based on two-dimensional shallow water wave equation is used in this study to simulate the flow characteristecs of the river reach between Chamsil and Shingok submerged weirs, which acts as a tidal river under low flow conditions. The model uses Galerkin F.E.M and meshes are composed of triangular or quadrangular elements. The model shows accurate and stable results concerning mass conservation as well as velocity distribution and water surface elevation. The results obtained in the present study may provide useful informations on the planning of river pollution abatement measures and artificial structures.

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A Revisit to the Myungryang Naval Battle through Hindcasting Tidal Currents and Tides (명량해전 당일 울돌목 조류.조석 재현을 통한 해전 전개 재해석)

  • Byun, Do-Seong;Lee, Min-Woong;Lee, Ho-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Military Science and Technology
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.189-197
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    • 2011
  • As a multidisciplinary study encompassing oceanography and history, we have attempted to reanalyze the course of a historical navel battle, Myungryang Naval Battle(September 16th, 1597 according to the lunar calendar) through hindcasting the paleo-tidal currents and -tides(PTC). Firstly, we conducted harmonic analysis using 6-month current data observed at Uldolmok and 1-year elevation data provided by Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute in order to understand their characteristics and to hindcast the PTC. Observation results show that Uldolmok, ~300m wide, relatively narrow channel, is characterized by a flood-dominant mixed mainly semidiurnal tidal regime induced by relatively-strong shallow water constituents, showing closely a standing wave type of tidal current. Further, we hindcasted PTC on the day of Myungryang Naval Battle. Our results were compared and discussed with results(time and speeds of maximum(flood and ebb) currents and high and low water times) of the previous studies estimated from different methods. Lastly, we reconstruct the course of the event of Myungryang Naval Battle recorded in the Admiral Sun-Sin Yi's War Diary(Nangjung Iigi in Korean) based on our hindcasting results.

A Note on the Modified Mild-Slope Equation (修正 緩傾斜方程式에 대한 小考)

  • Kyung Doug Suh;Woo Sun Park;Chang Hoon Lee
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.55-63
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    • 1998
  • Recently the modified mild-slope equation has been developed by several researchers using different approaches, which, compared to the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation, includes additional terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature. By examining this equation, it is shown that both terms are equally important in intermediate-depth water, but in shallow water the influence of the bottom curvature term diminishes while that of the bottom slope square term remains significant. In order to examine the importance of these terms in more detail, the modified mild-slope equation and the Berkhoff's mild-slope equation are tested for the problems of wave reflection from a plane slope, a non-plane slope, and periodic ripples. It is shown that, when only the bottom slope is concerned, the mild-slope equation can give accurate results up to a slope of 1 in 1 rather than 1 in 3, which, until now, has been known as the limiting bottom slope for its proper application. It is also shown that the bottom curvature term plays an important role in modeling wave propagation over a bottom topography with relatively mild variation, but, where the bottom slope is not small, the bottom slope square term should also be included for more accurate results.

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Hydraulic Characteristics of Dam Break Flow by Flow Resistance Stresses and Initial Depths (흐름저항응력 및 초기수심에 따른 댐붕괴류의 수리특성)

  • Song, Chang Geun;Lee, Seung Oh
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.47 no.11
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    • pp.1077-1086
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    • 2014
  • The flood wave generated due to dam break is affected by initial depth upstream since it is related with hydraulic characteristics propagating downstream, and flow resistance stress has influence on the celerity, travel distance, and approaching depth of shock wave in implementing numerical simulation. In this study, a shallow water flow model employing SU/PG scheme was developed and verified by analytic solutions; propagation characteristics of dam break according to flow resistance and initial depth were analyzed. When bottom frictional stress was applied, the flow depth was relatively higher while the travel distance of shock wave was shorter. In the case of Coulomb stress, the flow velocity behind the location of dam break became lower compared with other cases, and showed values between no stress and turbulent stress at the reach of shock wave. The value of Froude number obtained by no frictional stress at the discontinuous boundary was the closest to 1.0 regardless of initial depth. The adaption of Coulomb stress gave more appropriate results compared with turbulent stress at low initial depth. However, as the initial depth became increased, the dominance of flow resistance terms was weakened and the opposite result was observed.

Inverse Estimation of Geoacoustic Parameters in Shallow Water Using tight Bulb Sound Source (천해환경에서 전구음원을 이용한 지음향인자의 역추정)

  • 한주영;이성욱;나정열;김성일
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.8-16
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    • 2004
  • An inversion method is presented for the determination of the compressional wave speed, compressional wave attenuation, thickness of the sediment layer and density as a function of depth for a horizontally stratified ocean bottom. An experiment for estimating those properties was conducted in the shallow water of South Sea in Korea. In the experiment, a light bulb implosion and the propagating sound were measured using a VLA (vertical line array). As a method for estimating the geoacoustic properties, a coherent broadband matched field processing combined with Genetic Algorithm was employed. When a time-dependent signal is very short, the Fourier transform results are not accurate, since the frequency components are not locatable in time and the windowed Fourier transform is limited by the length of the window. However, it is possible to do this using the wavelet transform a transform that yields a time-frequency representation of a signal. In this study, this transform is used to identify and extract the acoustic components from multipath time series. The inversion is formulated as an optimization problem which maximizes the cost function defined as a normalized correlation between the measured and modeled signals in the wavelet transform coefficient vector. The experiments and procedures for deploying the light bulbs and the coherent broadband inversion method are described, and the estimated geoacoustic profile in the vicinity of the VLA site is presented.

Analytic Solution to Mild Slope Equation for Transformation of Waves Propagating over an Axi-symmetric Pit (축대칭 함몰지형 위를 진행하는 파의 변형에 관한 완경사 방정식의 해석 해)

  • Jung, Tae-Hwa;Suh, Kyung-Duck
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.308-320
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    • 2006
  • An analytic solution to the mild-slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit. The water depth inside the pit varies in proportion to a power of radial distance from the pit center. The governing equation is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equations are transformed into explicit forms by using Hunt's (1979) approximate solution. Finally, by using the Frobenius series, the analytic solution is derived. Due to the feature of Hunt's equation, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth water. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation.

Application of Practical Dispersion-Correction Scheme for Simulation of Tsunami Propagation (지진해일 전파 수치해석을 위한 실용적인 분산보정기법 적용)

  • Choi, Moon-Kyu;Ha, Tae-Min;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.145-152
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    • 2008
  • The initial wave lengths of tsunamis can be several tens to hundreds kilometers. Thus, the importance of the frequency dispersive effects in proportion to variation of the wave length, and should be properly considered in numerical simulation of tsunami propagation for a better accuracy. Recently, a practical dispersion-correction scheme has been developed by adding dispersion-correction terms(Cho et al., 2007). The new model employing the numerical technique has been verified by comparing numerical results with available analytic solutions, however, the new model has not yet been applied on a real topography. In this study, the new model is applied on a real topography and its applicability is examined. To study the applicability of the new model, two historical tsunami events are simulated for Sokcho, Mukho and Pohang harbors, with the tide gage records. Numerical results, the arrival time and the maximum water level at the tidal stations, are compared with observed data at each harbor.

A Study on the Statistical Characteristics and Numerical Hindcasts of Storm Waves in East Sea (동해 폭풍파랑의 통계적 특성과 파랑 후측모의 실험에 관한 연구)

  • Chun, Hwusub;Kang, Tae-Soon;Ahn, Kyungmo;Jeong, Weon Mu;Kim, Tae-Rim;Lee, Dong Hwan
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.81-95
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    • 2014
  • In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.