• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.462-469
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• 2009

This study suggests a general formula of non-cohesive sediment transport rates for waves and currents which is also valid for wave only or current only condition. On-offshore sediment transport rates with the second order Stokes wave in the shallow water are calculated as the pickup rate times the distance. The formula depicts reasonably that high waves move material offshore, and low waves move material onshore. Also the formula, as is the case the waves with long period tend to move material onshore, shows good results.

• ALGAE
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.61-71
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• 2011

Thirty populations of Chondrus crispus Stackhouse from Nova Scotia were collected during the years 1993 to 2011. Taken from estuaries, wave exposed open coasts, high intertidal rock pools and shallow subtidal habitats, the populations were evaluated for relative abundance of tetrasporophytic and gametophytic life history phases. Over 2,800 thalli were characterized using the resorcinol-acetal test to distinguish the kappa- and lambda-carrageenan containing fronds of gametophytes and tetrasporophytes, respectively. These populations had $77{\pm}5%$ gametophytes (mean ${\pm}95%$ confidence interval), with most populations having gametophyte : sporophyte ratios ranging from 2 : 1 to 9 : 1. No population had a dominance of tetrasporophytes, although two populations had 1 : 1 ratios. A meta-analysis of our data along with previously published accounts showed no significant changes in gametophyte dominance with respect to hypothesized gradients of wave exposure, salinity, or water depth. Significant changes occurred in ratios at five sites where replicate sampling occurred in different years. We conclude that C. crispus in Maritime Canada has a natural ratio of 3 : 1 or greater in stable conditions, and that lower ratios represent recovery from disturbance in which bare substratum is created that is subsequently colonized by carpospores from remaining gametophytic thalli.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.177-188
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• 2001

The paper presents the method to estimate the bottom shear stress driven by waves and current on rough turbulent flow. Parameter adjusting technique is suggested for the computation of bed shear stress driven by uni-directional flow, and the value ofpararneter is determined by comparing the computational results against Bijker's laboratory data. For the computation of combined flow bottom shear stress, two methods are presented; one is the modified Bijker approach (BYO Model) and the other is the modified Fredsoe approach (FY Model), both of which are refined by the present writers. BYO model is again refined in the computation of maximum shear stress, and the final version is tested against Bijkcr's laboratory data.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.32-41
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• 2002

Present study aims to investigate draft effects on hydro-elastic response of pontoon type VLFS(Very Large Floating Structure). A three dimensional higher-order boundary element method(HOBEM: Hong et al;1999, Choi, Hong and Choi; 2001) is extended to analyze elastic response of structures. Intensive numerical calculations were carried out for box type structure to investigate the draft effect on hydrodynamic forces on pontoon type VLFS. Main attention was paid to wave run-up along the waterline for various cases of draft scantling. It is found that the draft effects on the hydro-elastic response of pontoon type VLFS are important especially in short wave range and shallow water region.

• Atmosphere
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.387-398
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• 2023

The double Fourier series (DFS) spectral dynamical core is evaluated for the two idealized test cases in comparison with the spherical harmonics (SPH) spectral dynamical core. A new approach in calculating the meridional expansion coefficients of DFS, which was recently developed to alleviate a computational error but only applied to the 2D spherical shallow water equation, is also tested. In the 3D deformational tracer transport test, the difference is not conspicuous between SPH and DFS simulations, with a slight outperformance of the new DFS approach in terms of undershooting problem. In the baroclinic wave development test, the DFS-simulated wave pattern is quantitatively similar to the SPH-simulated one at high resolutions, but with a substantially lower computational cost. The new DFS approach does not offer a salient advantage compared to the original DFS while computation cost slightly increases. This result suggests that the current DFS spectral method can be a practical and alternative dynamical core for high-resolution global modeling.

• The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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• v.18 no.3E
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• pp.9-20
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• 1999

To investigate the characteristics of internal waves (IWs) and their effects on acoustic wave propagation, a series of sea experiment were performed in the east coast of Donghae city, Korea in 1997 and 1998 where the water depth varies between 130 and 140 m. Thermistor strings were deployed to measure water temperatures simultaneously at 9 depths. CW source signals with the frequencies of 250,670 and 1000 Hz were received by an array of 15 hydrophones. Through the Wavelet transform analysis, the IWs are characterized as having typical periods of 2-17 min and duration of 1-2 hours. The IWs exist in a group of periods rather than in one period. Underwater acoustic signals also show obvious energy peaks in the periods of less than 12 min. Consistency in the periods of the two physical processes implies that acoustic waves react to the IWs through some mechanisms like mode interference and travel time fluctuation. Based on the thermistor string data, mode arriving structures are analyzed. As thermocline depth varies with time, it may cause travel time difference as much as 4-10 ms between mode 1 and 2 over 10 km range. This travel time difference causes interference among modes and thus fluctuation from range-independent stratified ocean structure. In real situations, however, there exist additional spatial variation of IWs. Model simulations with all modes and simple IWs show clear responses of acoustic signals to the IWs, i.e., fluctuations of amplitude and phase.

• Water for future
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.87-101
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• 1993

A finite element model RIV-FEM2 for the hydrodynamic study in a river is developed based on two-dimensional shallow water wave equation and dissipative Galerkin's method. RIV-FEM2 consists of pre-processing, analysis processing and post-processing. Pre- and analysis processing is programmed with Fortran-77 and post-processing with turbo-Pascal respectively. The model is tested with two dimensional problems, including flow through bends, bridges, and symmetric contraction. The two dimensional tests shows stable and efficient results for various situations. Applicability of the model is verified by applying to natural river. The model will provide a basic contribution to the hydrodynamic analysis in a river.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.899-908
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• 2007

In this study, wave reflection due to depression of seabed is calculated by using eigenfunction expansion method. The proper numbers of steps and evanescent modes needed for analysis are suggested by applying the eigenfunction expansion method to bottom topography of which slope or curvature varies. While satisfying shallow or intermediate water depth condition, the optimal figure of depression of seabed is obtained by calculating reflection coefficient for various depressions of seabed. The reflection coefficient with distance between the depression of seabeds is then calculated after arraying the optimal geometry in two and three rows.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2010.05a
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• pp.189-193
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• 2010

RMA-2, Telemac-2D, River2D 등 기존의 대부분 국내외 상용모형에서는 내부 경계인 하천구조물과 외부 경계인 측벽에서의 경계조건을 활동조건(slip condition)으로 가정하여 흐름장을 계산하였다. 그러나 실제로 벽면에서는 마찰력에 의해 흐름이 존재하지 않는 무활조건(no slip condition)이 물리적으로 타당하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 내부구조물인 교각이 존재하는 영역에서의 수평 2차원 유속분포를 구하기 위해 천수방정식을 Galerkin법과 Newton-Raphson법에 의해 이산화한 수치모형을 개발하였다. Yulistiyanto 등(1998)이 수치모의 및 수리실험에 사용한 조건을 채택하여 벽면에서의 접선방향 유속이 존재하는 활동조건과 벽면에서 유속이 없는 무활조건을 부여하고 교각을 포함한 수로에서 유속, 수위 및 전단분포를 해석하였다. 활동경계조건을 적용한 경우 교각 표면을 따라 큰 유속이 분포하고 후면에서도 관성력에 의해 흐름방향 유속이 두드러지게 나타났으나 무활조건을 적용한 경우 교각 후면에서 와가 형성되고 후류현상이 두드러지게 나타났다. 무활조건을 적용한 경우 교각 전면부에서는 선수파(bow wave)가 4 cm정도 높게 나타났으며 교각 측면부에서는 2 cm 높게 나타났다. 반면 교각 후면에서는 후류의 영향으로 수면이 2 cm 낮게 분포하였다. 교각부에 작용하는 전단력을 분석한 결과 무활조건을 적용한 경우가 활동조건을 적용한 경우에 비해 최대 6배 높은 전단력이 나타났다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.118-134
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• 2015

An analytical solution of dynamic responses for seabed in shallow, finite and infinite thicknesses has been developed under flow and standing wave coexisting field at a constant water depth condition. To do this, based on the Biot's consolidation theory, the seabed is assumed as a porous elastic media with the assumptions that pore fluid is compressible and Darcy law governs the flow. The developed analytical solution is compared with the previous results and is verified. Using the analytical solution the deformation, pore pressure, effective and shear stresses of seabed are examined under various given values of flow velocity, incident wave period and seabed thickness. From this study, it is confirmed that the seabed response is quite different depending on consideration of flow, which causes changing period and length of incident and reflection waves.