• Title/Summary/Keyword: Shallow Water Waves

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Interference of Acoustic Signals Due to Internal Waves in Shallow Water

  • Na Young-Nam
    • Proceedings of the Acoustical Society of Korea Conference
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    • spring
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    • pp.189-197
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    • 1999
  • To investigate internal waves (IW) effect on acoustic wave propagation, m analysis is conducted on mode travel time and model simulation. Based on the thermistor string data, it can be shown that the thermocline depth variation may cause travel time difference as much as 4-10 ms between mode 1 and 2 over range 10 km. This travel time difference causes interference among modes and thus fluctuation from range-independent stratified ocean structure. In real situations, however, there exist additionally spatial variation of IW. Model simulation with all modes and simple IW shows clear responses of acoustic signals to IW, amplitude and phase fluctuation.

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Nonlinear Theory for Laboratory Wave Generation (비선형(非線形) 조파이론(造波理論))

  • Kim, Tae In
    • KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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    • v.12 no.4_1
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    • pp.137-150
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    • 1992
  • A complete solution, exact to second-order, for wave motion forced by a hinged-wavemaker of variable-draft is presented. A solution for a piston type wavemaker is also obtained as a special case of a hinged-wavemaker. The laboratory waves generated by a plane wave board are shown to be composed of two components; viz., a Stokes second-order wave and a second-harnomic free wave which travels at a different speed. The amplitude of the second-harmonic free wave is relatively large in shallow water and decreases to less than 10% of the amplitude of the primary wave in deep water. Wavemakers with relatively deeper draft (i.e., hinged near the bottom) generate the free waves of smaller amplitude in shallow and intermediate water depths than the wavemakers with shallow draft. However, the opposite is predicted by theory in deep water.

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Calculation of Run-up Height on a Conical island with Variable Transverse Lengths of Incident Waves (입사파폭에 따른 원추형 섬에서의 처오름높이 계산)

  • Jo, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.31 no.4
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    • pp.449-457
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    • 1998
  • Using a numerical model solving the shallow-water equations, unusual huge run-up heights observed in the lees of both Babi and Okushiri islands were investigated in detail. The effects of incident tsunami widths were particularly examined by adjusting the transverse length of the wave-maker in laboratory and numerical experiments. The calculated run-up heights were compared with the laboratory experimental data. It has been found that the run-up heights in the lee of a conical island are strongly dependent on the ratio of a transverse length of incident tsuanmis to a base diameter of the island. Keywords : shallow-water equations, tsunami, run-up height, conical island.

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Development of TVD Numerical Models: II. Shallow-Water Equations (TVD 수치모형의 개발: II. 천수방정식)

  • Lee, Jong-Uk;Jo, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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    • v.34 no.2
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    • pp.187-195
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    • 2001
  • In this study, a numerical model describing the shallow-water equations is newly developed by using a TVD scheme. The model has a second-order accuracy in time and space and is free from nonphysical oscillations, even in the vicinity of large gradients. Because a upwind based TVD scheme requires a Riemann solver, the HLLC scheme is employed in this model. To calibrate the applicability and accuracy, the developed model is used to simulate dam-break waves in an ideal channel and a sloshing flow n a paraboloidal basin. Agreements between numerical predictions and analytical solutions are very resonable.

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Shallow Water Wave Hindcasting by the Combination of MASCON and SWAN Models (지형을 고려한 해상풍 모델(MASCON)과 SWAN 모델의 결합에 의한 천해파랑 산정)

  • Kim, Ji-Min;Kim, Chang-Hoon;Kim, Do-Sam;Hur, Dong-Soo
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.57-65
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    • 2007
  • Shallow water waves are hindcasted from sea wind fields, which include wave transformations such as shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection and wave breaking. In case of estimating sea wind field in shallow water, the sea wind revised from free wind obtained by the typhoon model is widely used. However, this method is not able to consider the effect of land topography on the wind field, which will be important factor for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting. In this study, therefore, the effect of land topography on sea wind field in shallow water is investigated for shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting with high accuracy. The 3-D MASCON model is introduced to consider the influence of land topography on the wind field. And, for two areas divided by the topographical characteristics, i.e. shielded and opened coastal areas, sea wind field is examined by comparison between initial wind field by typhoon model and modified wind field by 3-D MASCON model. Finally, applying these sea wind fields to SWAN model, the results of shallow water wave calculated in shielded and opened coastal areas are compared, and, also, the effect of MASCON model on shallow water wave forecasting and hindcasting is discussed.

Field Measurements of Wave Directionality in Water of Finite Depth

  • Memos, Constantine;Ziros, Athanassios
    • Ocean and Polar Research
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    • v.25 no.4
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    • pp.437-446
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    • 2003
  • Field measurements of directional waves were carried out during the summer of 2002 at two coastal sites in water of finite depth. A couple of general purpose instruments were used employing acoustic Doppler technology. The aim of the study was to investigate the spatial behavior of the directional movement of waves as they come ashore. In total,74 tests were carried out during which sea states of low to moderate intensity were recorded. A great number of these runs displayed bimodal characteristics of the spreading function at high frequencies. It was found that in general, the frequency-integrated directional width tends to broaden as the water shoals and when refraction effects are negligible. This is attributed to wave-wave interactions that become pronounced in shallow water. The same directional width showed, also, a tendency to increase with increasing peak frequency of the sea state spectrum. The behavior of the kurtosis of the spreading function was also examined. It was found that for higher frequencies this index tends to increase in wave spectra above a certain sea severity threshold.

Variation of probability of sonar detection by internal waves in the South Western Sea of Jeju Island (제주 서남부해역에서 내부파에 의한 소나 탐지확률 변화)

  • An, Sangkyum;Park, Jungyong;Choo, Youngmin;Seong, Woojae
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.37 no.1
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    • pp.31-38
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    • 2018
  • Based on the measured data in the south western sea of Jeju Island during the SAVEX15(Shallow Water Acoustic Variability EXperiment 2015), the effect of internal waves on the PPD (Predictive Probability of Detection) of a sonar system was analyzed. The southern west sea of Jeju Island has complex flows due to internal waves and USC (Underwater Sound Channel). In this paper, sonar performance is predicted by probabilistic approach. The LFM (Linear Frequency Modulation) and MLS (Maximum Length Sequence) signals of 11 kHz - 31 kHz band of SAVEX15 data were processed to calculate the TL (Transmission Loss) and NL (Noise Level) at a distance of approximately 2.8 km from the source and the receiver. The PDF (Probability Density Function) of TL and NL is convoluted to obtain the PDF of the SE (Signal Excess) and the PPD according to the depth of the source and receiver is calculated. Analysis of the changes in the PPD over time when there are internal waves such as soliton packet and internal tide has confirmed that the PPD value is affected by different aspects.

Study on Hydrodynamic Forces Acting on a Very Large Container Vessel at Lower Depths in Both Still Water and Waves (정수중 및 파랑중 저수심에서의 초대형 컨테이너선에 작용하는 유체력 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Sangmin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.613-619
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    • 2017
  • Recently, the size of container ships has been progressively increasing, and much attention is required for safe navigation in shallow areas such as coastal waters and ports due to increases in draft. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of ship motion not only in still waters but also with waves. Especially in shallow regions, squat due to the vertical movement of the ship can be an important evaluation factor for the safe navigation, and wave drift force acting in the horizontal direction can have a great influence on the maneuverability of a ship. In this study, a numerical simulation using computational fluid dynamics has been performed for the wave exciting force acting in the vertical direction and the wave drift force acting in the horizontal direction for a very large container vessel sailing in shallow zone. As a result, it was found that total resistance in still waters greatly increased in shallow water. Wave drift force was shown to decrease given longer wavelengths regardless of water depth. It was observed that the wave exciting force in shallow water was considerably larger than at other water depths. As wave height against the central part of the ship lowered, the aft side rose.