• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.686-693
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• 2022

The rapid development of the fashion industry in contemporary society has also caused various problems such as environmental pollution, material excess, and spiritual poverty. Accordingly, traditional Chinese Taoist aesthetics can solve the spiritual poverty that people are facing today, and the spiritual pursuit of returning to innocence. This study focuses on the works of first generation Chinese designer Ma Ke as an example to discuss the embodiment and application of Taoist aesthetics. The results are as follows: First, Ma Ke's works emphasize the value of handicraft through traditional handcrafting and natural fibers, which reflect the beauty of simplicity and the non-action of Taoist aesthetics. Second, the works acknowledge nature by using natural materials and retaining their original appearance, which embodies Taoist aesthetics of the beauty in non-action and living in harmony with nature. Third, the collections reflect a critical attitude toward the fashion industry and consumer culture by rethinking consumerism and advocating environmental protection, thus propagating the beauty in simplicity and the harmonious life with nature in Taoism aesthetics. In conclusion, Ma Ke's designs incorporating sustainability and handicraft exhibit the core features of Taoist aesthetics, including the beauty in simplicity, non-action, and living in harmony with nature while exploring the relationship between modernity and tradition, man and nature, and handicraft and fashion. This research can contribute to understanding Ma Ke's works in promoting critical thinking about the fashion industry through Taoist aesthetics.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.20
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• pp.113-139
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• 2004

This article intends to illuminate how the men. leading agents in Saseol-sijo - musical performers. writers of lyrics, patrons. composers. compilers of Sijo anthologies, audience. etc. - In the Late Choson period, viewed or recognized women and how their understanding of women was reflected in the texts. Working with texts with the theme of 'Love,' this article starts with categorizing two types of love: the first type, 'lovelorn heart' focusing on unilateral pining for a single lover who is absent now and the second type. 'physical love' concentrating on bilateral sexual intercourse. In addition to the types of love, the gender of poetic speakers, distinct from real poets is vital to characterize the discourse of love. According to these two factors. texts in question fall into four groups: texts that a female speaker displays her lovelorn heart('Type 1'), those where she speaks about her sexual experiences('Type 2'), those where a male speaker sings his lovelorn heart('Type 3'), and those where he describes his sexual experiences('Type 4'). Of these. 'Type 2' and 'Type 3' are key to understanding of the men's view of women. With respect to the configuration of the theme of 'Love,' it should be noted that in Korean literary history, the nim or a 'sweetheart' had signified the totality of value or a perfect entity which makes one's life meaningful and that 'Type 1,' the pattern that a female subject expresses her love toward male min, had constituted a traditional way to convey the theme of 'Love.' In terms of this connotation of min. a remarkable increase of 'Type 3' implying the increase of male speakers, reveals the extent to which women, the male speakers' min, accomplished their entry into a 'sacred area' -the position of mm-in which only men had occupied; females are focused and centralized. This article considers this phenomenon as an exhibition of the upgrade of women's significance and weight in the Late Choson society and as an index of 'modernity.' Meanwhile, given that most of the Saseol-sijo poets are men, the emergence of the 'Type 2' texts in which male poets have female speakers disclose their sexual experiences, demonstrates a representative example that women are degraded to be a means of men's pleasure; for this situation gives men more pleasure than when male speakers reveal their sexual experiences. Not only 'Type 2,' but texts group which basically belongs to 'Type I' and conveys the theme of 'Loyalty' through the female voice by substituting rulers-subjects relation for men-women relation, also falls under the same case. For men employ female voice as a poetic device in order to stress the theme of 'Loyalty' This article regards this phenomenon as an index of 'pre-modernity,' in the sense that in a pre-modem society, specifically in Early Choson, male-oriented value system dominates, thereby alienating women. As it is well known, the Late Choson is marked by a transitional period from a pre-modem society to a modem society. Therefore the ambivalence of the premodern and the modem can be found mixed in every segment of the society. The dual aspects of the masculine view of women in Saseol-sijo constitutes one example. The significance of the Saseol-sijo in Korean literary history can be found in this phenomenon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.959-969
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• 1997

This research is intended to help the development of new products and marketing strategies studying consumers' knowledge level and attitude towards original brand and the extension attitude related to the brand image. The detailed purposes of this study are as follow: First, it is to measure consumers' knowledge and attitude towards original brand. Second, it is to clarify the dimensions of the image about the original brand and extended brand product which is perceived by the consumer. Third, it is to meassure image consistency and product similarity between the original brand and extended product. The sample group consisted of female college students 393 in Seoul. Stratified sampling, based on major and grade of sturients and the structure of the college they were attending was used as sampling method. Questionnaires, which were selected from literature and proceeding researches published in Korea and abroad, were modified for this study, SAS Package was used for data analysis. The results observed in this study were as follow: 1. Consumers' knowledge level about original brand showed high among students majoring in clothing-related subjects and their general attitude proved to be positive. 2. Image factors of original brand were classified to dignity factor, personality/modernity factor, femininity factor, and ornamentation factor. Lipstick is considered to have high image consistency and product similarity. 3. Comparing the attitude before and after extension, extension to lipstick which showed high image consistency and product similarity received more positive reactions than one to bed cover sheet. 4. It was founded that although knowledge and attitude towards original brand with image consistency had no influence on the extension attitude, knowledge and attitude without image consistency influence the extension attitude.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.45-55
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• 2015

After the Korean war, two major attempts were made to reconstruct Gwanghwamun Gate as an important part of Korea's lost cultural heritage. In December 2006, the Korean government replaced the concrete gate with a wooden one, yet traces of the attempts made in the 1960s to transform Gwanghwamun Gate and the main road remain to this day. At the time, the Third Republic of Korea, sought to legitimize itself in the name of modernity, and went on to modernize the architecture and urban landscape of Seoul. The location and design selected for the rebuilt Gwanghwamun illustrated the symbolic relationship between historic heritage and urban development. The reconstruction of the gate began as part of the Third Republic's project to restore the Central Administration Building and culminated in the transformation of the main road in front of the gate. By reconstructing the traditional gate using concrete, the military government intended to convey the message that we could inherit our proud tradition using modern materials, and that we should actively adopt the new technologies of the modern era. This study begins with the premise that the Gwanghwamun reconstruction project of 1968 represents the application of new technological thinking to Korea's architectural style, and has two objectives. The first is to summarize the reconstruction process and method using the records and drawings from the 1968 project, which was then under the leadership of architect Kang Bong-jin. The second is to analyze the characteristics of the architectural style and structure of the reconstructed Gwanghwamun so as to reinterpret the relationship between Korean tradition and modern technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1786-1797
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• 2010

This study investigates the historical formation and characteristics of modern Korean consumption culture by reviewing previous literature about consumption spaces and conspicuous consumption in modern Korea. This study examined the historical formation and characteristics of three different periods of time: from 1876 to 1919, from 1920 to 1936, and from 1937 to 1945. In addition, the current study reviews previous literature related to advertising, poems, novels, historical events, and Orientalism. Based on this, the historical characteristics were also analyzed. The overall results were as follows: The first period from 1876 to 1919 was the beginning of modern Korean consumption culture, in which exotic goods such as foreign fabrics were preferred and consumed. In addition, clothing was simplified and westernized through modern reform. The second period of time, 1920 to 1936, was the development stage of modern Korean consumption culture that formed the foundation of modern consuming spaces where the recognition of the human form became more modern, and 'modern girls' styles appeared. The final period, 1937 to 1945, was the regression stage of Korean modern consumption culture, in which consumption decreased during the Sino-Japanese War and World War II. The results of this study' conclude that the leading-consumer items hold symbolic value as well as became signifiers within modern consumption spaces such as modern Korean department stores and that women were recognized as modern leading-consumers as shown by the dramatic increase in the number of products that targeted women.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.91-99
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• 2007

Modernity which is superficial phenomenon set off the mass scale for mass consumption and provide uniformly artificial environment. But natural destruction, environment pollution, resources exhaustion and so on has been caused by this and now ecology is threatened by destruction and damage beyond the limitation and human beings survival is even threatened. Accordingly furniture development for environment preservation considered environment problem is the urgent real situation. Recent paradigm is the concept of Eco-design which is the green design possible to live together in symbiosis, and new types of alternative furniture are needed in Korea as well. 'Furniture for disassembly' is presented as new method for alternative furniture. Furniture for disassembly can be presented by mainly two directions. The first main characteristic is what is assembled by the use of woodworking joints technique as an assembly structure system without any hardware. The second is what is presented as the structure possible to be assembled by simple manual tools with hardware without any glue. The advantages of furniture for disassembly are environment preservation, space application, transportation efficiency and shapeliness. In manufacture method which is different from present furniture, the application of traditional truss technique which uses various types of custom-made and connection technique in case of assemble structure system without hardware is the typical differences. This assembly method expects not only interest induction about assembly and disassembly of diagram per sub materials but also the development of emotion, the improvement of collaboration, space perception ability and shape sense, the improvement of solid body structure insight and so on, when it use in the furniture for children with the application to many kinds of structure with BANGDOOSANJ (Wedged), JUMUGJANGBU (Dovetail) or NABIEUNJANG (Dovetail Keys) and so on.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.121-129
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• 2016

With the ingenious properties of unconstrained formativeness and frank expression of materiality the exposed concrete became popular with numerous architectures. The application of the exposed concrete has expanded to indoor environments such as commercial and residential spaces beyond the building exteriors with the uncompromising nature of its materiality. The purpose of this study is to conduct sensibility evaluation of the exposed concrete finish in interior spaces. The sensibility evaluation is conducted through a survey on a set of space models of the exposed concrete finish. The three rendered space models were evaluated by emotional vocabulary of 18 pairs of words. The result were as follows: First, the emotions derived from the exposed concrete finish are 'modern', 'cold', 'simple', 'restrained', 'rough', 'dark', 'new', 'chic', 'familiar' and 'eco-friendly'. Second, three sets of space models with alternative materials on walls and floors in exposed concrete interior space showed clear difference in sensibility. A space with the exposed concrete finish on the floor, the walls and the ceiling showed the results of 'cold', 'dark', 'rational' and 'masculine'. In the exposed concrete finish environment with wood flooring 'comfortable', 'warm', 'bright' senses and with white paint finish on the wall 'bright', 'practical', 'ordinary' and 'restrained' senses were obtained. Third, all three images achieved senses of 'chic', 'modern', 'new', 'pleasant', 'environment friendly' and 'satisfactory'. The modernity and stylish expressions of the exposed concrete finish were kept with the application of different material finishes as well as complementing its cold and rough expressions with warmth and brightness.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.515-527
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• 2014

This study is intended to develop the creative and high value-added products as well as the development of diversity for jump suit for the future by analyzing the trend and feature shown in jump suit in the modern fashion. In the research methodology, the analysis was carried out over a total of 351 work pieces on jump suit among those presented in the collection of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2006S/S to 2013F/W as well as literature review. The aesthetic features on suit jump design introduced in the modern fashion could be characterized as the following. First, both upper and lower garments are composed with a simple array of items and the stress was put on modernity feature through minimal expression technique. The feature of solid simplicity was also given with achromatic color or neutral monochrome. Second, the feminity image was emphasized with adoption of such highlighting items as detailed add-ons, tops, camisoles and blouses that stress the organically curved streamline including silhouette, material itself, crease and drape that enable the direct and indirect exposition of human body and the expression of smooth curve in human body. Third, jump suit revealed the multipurpose feature as item available for the diverse wear such as working habiliment, sports wear, uniform, office wear and evening wear, depending on the terms and conditions. Fourth, the deconstructive characteristic appeared through integration with various items, destruction of formative structure, non-structural shape, and ambiguity in wearing method.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.75-85
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• 2014

This study is aimed to examine color expressed in fashion items and color of new senior generation in America and Korea. For this study, the three brands were selected by country after examining new senior fashion brand in the United States and Korea. The results of this study are as follows. First, In the case of Korea, t-shirt, cardigan, jacket, coat, and pants were investigated in order. In the case of the United States, blouse, sleeveless t-shirt, skirt, and one piece dress were investigated in order. In other words, Korea is characterized the practical and comfort features, the United States is characterized the practical and feminine modernity. Second, in the case of color, Korea is characterized Bk, YR, R, PB, G and the United States is characterized W, Y, YG, B, BG. In the case of tone, Korea is characterized dark greyish tone, light greyish tone, strong tone, vivid tone, deep tone, and light tone. In the United States, greyish tone, dull tone, soft tone, pale tone, bright tone, and dark tone were used. In the case of color by tone, both Korea and the United States are characterized R, RP, and PB in gorgeous tone. In the case of light tone, both Korea and the United States are characterized Y. In the case of plain tone, Korea is characterized Y and the United States is characterized B and G. In the case of dark tone, Korea is characterized R, Y, G, B and the United States is characterized P, R, and B. The results of the study is expected to be provide as forecasting dates of design planning for the new senior generation.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.7
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• pp.89-123
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• 2009

The Philippines was colonized by Spain for about centuries, from 1521 to 1898, and ruled by America for around four decades, from 1899 to 1946. After recovering from the Second World War, the government started to harness human labor as export itself. In the present time the overseas Filipinos keep the economy afloat with their steady transfer of money to relatives and dependents. Through the art works, the issue which Filipinos were exploited and exported by its government has been reflected as the various allegories. As Filipinos traditionally follow and keep Catholic belief, themes of Christ's sacrifice has allegorically been represented as salvation, struggle, suppression, and emancipation of people. Through the allegory, we can interpret both the intrinsic and superficial texts. Also we can identity certain modes of the visuality of allegory in selected works from Philippine art history that in their complex mediations materialize the people and dignity of their predicament and their prevailing. Philippine art can be divided as three different features: passion, vagrancy, and mass formation. The passion stage was depicted as deep structure of Christian thought and devotional feeling, harsh capitalist system. In the pictures of vagrancy, under the regime of Ferdinand Marcos, the themes of drift, deprivation, and homelessness are reckoned through the images of pictures. The stories represented with allegory have been played an important role to bring local issues up as national ones. Those stages take us to the processes of mass formation or the depiction of the people as a moment in the totality of force. The allegorical sign refers to another sign that precedes it, but with which it will never able to coincide reach back to a previous stage and in this constant attempt at return incorporates a structural distance from its origin. The true people's art is one that radically generates transformative technologies and techniques so that it irrevocably breaks the plane of "art". In the painting, the truth is represented by functioning as foundation of a rhetoric of the image. And at this axis, the passional, the vagrant, and the mass formation tend to come together because they render the form of contingency that must be suffered and hopefully surpassed, a Filipino subjectivity that must be stitched in time.