• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.spc
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• pp.245-253
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• 2017

In this study, surface currents measured by small lagrangian GPS drifters (Aquadrifter) in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of nearshore surface current and wave-induced current to understand sediment transport mechanism near the crescentic bars in the surf-zone and near Kangneung breakwater and submerged breakwater in Anmok. The 8 times lagrangian drifter experiments were conducted mostly during in 2nd, 3rd, 4th intensive measurements in winter, summer, and spring seasons with long-term wave observation at the station W1. The analysed surface currents near the breakwaters in Anmok show that wave-induced currents at the middle of the submerged breakwater were separated and flowed toward the shoreline but offshore currents were dominant through the channels between the breakwaters. The longshore currents near the shoreline were flowed to the northwest (southeast) depending on the incoming waves from ENE (NNE). The surface nearshore offshore currents were generated mostly by waves and winds in case of high and low wave energy environments. Using the small-size lagrangian surface drifter experiments, we successfully measured longshore and offshore wave-induced currents in the surf-zone and near submerged breakwater close to Kangneung breakwater. The drifter experiment results show the availability of direct observation of nearshore surface currents to understand the mechanism of sediment transport analysing observed wave-induced current and ebb-current in the surf-zone generated by incoming waves and local winds.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.182-191
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• 2011

In the present study, the dynamically coupled POM-WAM of Chun et al.(2009) was applied to the numerical simulation of undertow, one of the nearshore currents. To improve the accuracy of the numerical model results in surf zone, the transport equation of the surface roller was solved, and its effects were incorporated into the present numerical model. The numerical model has been applied to two hydraulic experiments of Okayasu and Katayama(1992) and Cox and Kobayashi(1997). The numerical results were compared with the hydraulic experimental results to give a good concurrence. It is concluded that the present numerical model can be applied to the shallow water region including surf zone.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.193-206
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• 1993

An analytical model of undertow is presented in the surf zone. Each term of the derived governing equation is evaluated by the ordering methods. Then the turbulent normal stresses and the streaming velocity terms are neglected. The driving force of undertow is derived from the wave profile which is approximated by the 4th order Chebyshev polynomials. The three types of vertical distribution of eddy viscosity are assumed and the coefficient of eddy viscosity is decided from the new boundary condition. So the input parameters for the calculation of undertow become very simple. The theoretical solutions of the present model are compared with the various experimental results. This model shows a good agreement with the experimental results in the case of mild slope and linear type eddy viscosity.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 1995

the necessity of development of the Nearshore zone greatly emphasis in recent years. In the wave deformation model, we can get the wave height and wave direction using the hyperbolic mild slope equation considered the reflection wave. Radiation Stress the driving force of flow was calculated by the Watanabe and Maruyama who proposed on the partial standing wave. In the surf zone, applying the Izumiya and Horikawa's turbulent model considered the bottom friction and energy dissipation, we compared and examined with the Numerical model and Hydraulic test result of Watanabe and Maruyama. This model results obtained for Jin-ha Beach agreed well with the Numerical results. This model is expected so helpful to solve the prediction of the wave deformation problems in the development of the Nearshore zone in the future.

• Biomaterials and Biomechanics in Bioengineering
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.249-269
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• 2015

A problem faced by oil companies is the maintenance of the location register of pipelines that cross the surf zone, the regular survey of their location, and also their inspection. A survey of the state of art did not allow identifying operating systems capable of executing such tasks. Commercial technologies available on the market also do not address this problem and/or do not satisfy the presented requirements. A possible solution is to use robotic systems which have the ability to walk on the shore and in the surf zone, subject to existing currents and ripples, and being able to withstand these ambient conditions. In this sense, the authors propose the development of a spider crab biologically inspired robot to achieve those tasks. Based on these ideas, this work presents a biomechanical study of the spider crab, its modeling and simulation using the SimMechanics toolbox of Matlab/Simulink, which is the first phase of this more vast project. Results show a robot model that is moving in an "animal like" manner, the locomotion, the algorithm presented in this paper allows the crab to walk sideways, in the desired direction.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.845-852
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• 2015

The runup height is an important design parameter to determine the crest elevation of coastal structures and seawalls. In this study, two dimensional wave runup tests for rubble-mound structure covered by tetrapods were conducted. Incident waves at the toe include nonbreaking, breaking and broken random wave conditions. A empirical formula to predict runup elevation of rubble-mound structure with 1:1.5 front slope was proposed on the basis of physical model test results using a surf similarity parameter. The test results from this study were compared with those from van der Meer and Stam(1992).

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.131-131
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• 2011

기후변화로 인한 기상이변 현상이 빈번하게 발생하면서 홍수와 같은 자연재해의 피해규모가 증가하고 있다. 이를 극복하기 위해 최근에는 구조적 대책뿐만 아니라 홍수예측시스템과 같은 비구조적 대책에도 많은 관심과 연구가 이루어지고 있다. 통상 홍수예측을 위해서는 예측강우의 정확도가 중요하게 부각되지만 중규모 이상의 유역에서는 수 시간의 지체시간 효과로 인해 AWS 실황강우만으로도 어느정도 선행시간에 대해서 하천유량예측이 가능하다고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 기상청 AWS 실황강우를 이용하여 하천유량을 예측할 경우 어느정도 선행시간과 정확도를 확보할 수 있는지에 대해서 분석하고자 한다. 분석을 위한 시단위 강우자료와 기상자료는 각각 AWS와 ASOS 자료를 이용하였다. 또한 하천유량 모의를 위한 강우-유출모형으로는 SURF 모델(Sejong University River Forecast Model)을 이용하였다. 이 모형은 저류함수모형 기반의 연속형 강우-유출모형으로 미래에 대한 유출모의결과의 정확도를 향상시키기 위해 앙상블 칼만필터링 기법을 연계한 모형이다. 그림 1은 충주댐유역에 대해서 2009.7.8~17일(240시간)에 대해서 관측유량 자료동화 전후의 결과를 나타낸 것이다. 현시점을 100, 105, 110, 115시간으로 가정하고 미래기간에 대해서는 관측강우를 0으로 가정했을 때 대략 첨두유량 발생 5시간 전에 예측된 모의유량이 관측유량과 거의 일치함을 확인할 수 있다. 따라서 실황강우와 관측유량 자료동화 기법을 연계할 경우 수 시간의 선행시간에 대해서 유량예측이 가능한 것으로 판단된다.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.18-23
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• 2008

This study investigated interactions between the internal-external wave field of a permeable coastal structure consisting of rubble. The study examined the application criteria of an existing numerical model (CADMAS-SURF V.4.0) and proposed a modified method to provide reasonable results. In particular, the study focused on and emphasized the water surface profiles in front of a structure, wave run-up/run-down on a slope, and internal water level fluctuations due to the drag coefficient and porosity of a rubble mound structure. In conclusion, the result show that when the vertical fluctuations of the internal water levels in permeable coastal structures exhibited high-quality representation. Sane responses can be seen for wave run-up/run-down characteristics on its slopes.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2012.05a
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• pp.250-250
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• 2012

하천유량 예측정보는 하천홍수를 잘 관리하기 위한 중요한 정보이다. 하천유량을 예측하기 위해서는 실제 기상상황이 잘 나타내는 관측 및 예측강우정보 구축, 대상유역의 수문반응특성을 잘 모의할 수 있는 유출모형 적용, 상류에 댐이 존재할 경우 저수지추적모형의 연계모의가 필요하다. 다만, 강우정보, 유출모형, 저수지추적모형은 항상 불확실성을 포함하고 있으며 어느 하나의 정보 또는 모형이 다른 것보다 항상 정확하기는 어렵다. 이러한 조건에서 하천유량을 잘 예측하기 위한 대안은 자료동화기법의 연계적용이라 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 관측유량 자료동화가 가능한 SURF 모형에 AUTO ROM 저수지추적방법을 연계하여 상류에 댐이 존재하는 유역에서도 하천유량을 예측할 수 있는 통합하천유량예측모형을 개발하였다. 적용유역은 한강유역을 채택하였으며 2002~2009년에 대해 모형을 구축하였다. 자료동화효과로 인해 유출모형만을 적용한 경우보다 유출모의 정확도가 높아지는 것을 확인하였다. 또한 저수지추적과정에서도 임의시점을 기준으로 과거기간에 대해서는 관측유입량과 방류량을 적용하고 미래기간에 대해서는 저수지추적을 통해 모의되며 이 결과로부터 저수위-유입량-방류량의 관계가 합리적으로 모의됨을 확인하였다. 이상의 결과로부터 하천유량예측을 위해서는 하천유량정보와 댐수문정보의 자료동화를 수행하므로써 하천유량 예측결과의 정확도를 향상시킬 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.